Awesome fingercracks of CA

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
I noticed a really high number of 5.11c fingercracks that are awesome. For example Espresso Crack at Little Egypt (Bishop area), 4th pitch of NF of the Rostrum, Butterballs at Cookie Cliff, and Pinky Paralysis (for my fingers felt much harder than 11c) at Finger Lickin area (Yosemite). So what are some awesome 5.11d/512 fingercracks in CA? Heard Equanox in Joshua Tree kicks ass. What are some good 5.10c-11b fingercracks?

Post some photos if you got them!
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
This one's pretty nice...


Curt
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Equinox is one of the best ever!
all in jim

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:57pm PT




Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1840113/Tips-5-12a-This-and-That-Cliff-Yosemite-Valley

hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Burchey, I was trying to decide what to do what with the freezing temps at Josh this weekend. That pic makes me want to come back to Woodson. You free?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Did a random Tr burn once on a beauty fingercrack up at donner summit after bouldering one day, only time ive ever climbed up there unfortunately. Would have loved to have gone back & led it. I can't remember the name but it was on perfect stone with great fingercrackwork the whole way. Maybe 11c/d on snowshed wall, left side i think- anyone know the name of what I'm talking about? Anyways, awesome fingercrack of CA for sure.







Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
5.10c - 5.11b (Yosemite)
351. Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
2118. Mr. Natural 5.10c ***
130. Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
750. Little Wing 5.10d **
1422. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1448. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1606. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
2286. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2302. Manana 5.10d **
2590. The Thief 5.10d **
96. New Dimensions 5.11a ***
180. Hardd p1 5.11a ***
203. Butterfingers 5.11a **
204. Ladyfingers 5.11a **
1308. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **
1535. Knuckle Buster 5.11a **
1561. Book of Revelations 5.11a **
1698. Arches Terrace Direct 5.11a **
2220. Controlled Burn 5.11a **
2799. Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 ***
79. Anticipation 5.11b **
181. Hardd p2 5.11b ***
199. Aftershock 5.11b **
1062. The Moratorium 5.11b **
1147. Essence 5.11b **
1533. Maps and Legends 5.11b **
2151. Circuit Breaker 5.11b TR **
2701. Crack the Whip 5.11b **
2794. Crashline 5.11b **
2806. Hairline 5.11b **

5.11c - 5.12
137. Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
182. Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c ***
201. Butterballs 5.11c ***
2274. Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c **
2512. Soul Sacrifice 5.11c **
2717. The Rostrum - Regular North Face 5.11c ***
2746. The Viper 5.11c **
194. Red Zinger 5.11d ***
293. Gait of Power 5.11d **
2314. Whisker 5.11d **
2630. The Warbler 5.11d **
2807. Moongerms 5.11d **
122. Goldfinger 5.12a **
439. Tips 5.12a ***
414. Fish Crack 5.12b **
435. Robin 5.12b **
1843. The Chief 5.12b *** (long route with short finger crack crux)
2723. Rostrum Roof 5.12b ***
2724. Alien 5.12b ***
2750. Razor's Edge 5.12 **
1218. Follywood 5.12c **

from Routes by Type list:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
The Alpine

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Goldfinger - Tuolumne

Fatal Mistake - Elephant Rock
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Manic depression i think rings a bell Ron. Thanks, killer stone up there.


Edit- oh hey a climbing thread!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
All in jim - what a photo set. Hell yeah. Thank you for that.
Friend

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Hard as Nails 5.11+, at Mt Woodson
Friend

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
The Emperor 5.11+, at the Needles
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
At the Palm Springs Tram... Coffman Crag... there is a 1 pitch climb 160 feet long...
Starts as a 11 squeeze chimney, keeps getting smaller as you go, by 1/3 its a finger crack then its a changing corner, still fingers... near the top the crack ends and you do some 11 face climbing then its 11 friction for the last few moves.....

"It's always something"

Kris Solem and crew

It will be iced up this weekend.... :>(

The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:45pm PT

Check out this crack in a boulder by my house, it's taller than me! Totally a destination climb, let me know when you come over to give it a try and I'll take pictures.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
OAK --> SLC --> creekend. :-)
The Alpine

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Asleep at the Wheel, Mt Chamberlin.

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Dec 3, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Blues Riff at Tuolumne is excellent.

At Josh...Hot Rocks fits the bill.
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Dec 3, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
Anyone mention: BONEYFINGERS Whitney Portal
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
I thought Bony Fingers was more of a face climb with a tips crack for pro. It was pretty awesome though.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 3, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
Trona mention, nice Cosmic!

Is that on the DL, or is it the Domelands guide?
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
this one always amazes me!!!!

the nose!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 3, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
cool, thx Cosmic!
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
It's in Poison Canyon on the way to Trona from Ridgecrest, Munge
Right side of the canyon just off the road.
a couple of other climbs are across on the other side of the road
named birdshit wall

I've done that thing. Isn't there also a nice dihedral on the same side as Flatfingers?

Curt
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.

Really nice--it you straighten it out with the direct start variation :-)

Curt
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
There's a couple of good climbs there in the canyon, Curt.

How long ago did you do Flatfingers, Curt?

I think I may have the FA on it I did it for the first time back in 74 75 when I started working in Trona at Kerr McGee.

It would have been 86 or 87, when I was working in the physics branch at the Naval Weapons Center. Al Green showed it to me.

Curt
Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Only one sandstone pict!
Gerka .12- in Indian Creek, Comic Relief .12-, Dynamo Humm .11+(well that's mine so I'm prejudice). Second pitch of Fine Jade. I could go on, and on...
Roadie

Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Oh yeah, Moonlight Buttress, the whole thing...
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
gota love that second pitch of central piller of frenzy right?
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Get this! I was actually born in Trona. Lucky break for me cuz no matter where I move, it's most likely better then where I came from.

I do like the Great Falls area, can be 30 degrees cooler in there then outside the canyon. Climbed a few things in Poison canyon too. All short but sweet. Tons of bouldering out there past Westend too, if you're into that sorta thing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
i gotta recycle yesterday's entourage,
for today im spent chasing prosperity,







Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Wild Kingdom 5.10c, Cardinal Pinnacle (on the upper part of Croft's "Crack Kingdom" linkup). And you can TR the 5.12 finger crack of the Prow on the way down.
Rudbud

Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 10:38pm PT

30ft of fingers
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Dec 3, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Digital delight
Phat slice
Blind Fairh pitch one
All Yosemite....

Dynamite Crack Cal Domes

To name a few not mentioned above.
All are at least 5.11+ or 5.12
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 4, 2013 - 12:21am PT
Here's a pic of All American Finger Crack.

It's a bit of a misnomer however because it widens as you go and ends with fist jams. It looks 5.11 from a distance but goes at 5.8 for the unreal first pitch. A great pitch, is probably in my top 5 single pitches all time.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 4, 2013 - 12:37am PT
Thanks for posting that pic Bergbryce. It's the first time iv'e seen it in the forty years since Bill Todd and I did the FA. Second pitch isn't bad either. My choice for best finger crack is pitch 6 and 8 of Rare Gem on Tahoe's Indian Rock and perhaps the first two pitches of Wall of the Worlds at Cal Dome. And i almost forgot Spacewalk.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Dec 4, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Star Walls Crack, .13a, at Donner is a beautiful line. One of the best crack climbs around IMHO.
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 4, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Rick, I can't imagine how stoked you must have been when you first laid eyes on it! Such an incredible setting and a great line.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 02:51am PT
Good call Rick Sumner!


First 2 pitches (when a friend and I did it I linked them) of War of the Walls (Cal dome) are incredible. Small roof leading to a 5.11a fingercrack, and than 5.10 thin hands through a roof...my god, that was an incredible pitch!!!!

And upper pitch of Croft's "Crack Kingdom" link up is VERY good. Can't call it a true fingercrack (pitch before 10b bolder problem I suppose?) but it is amazing. Way more enjoyable than wide stuff on P2.

Also V8 crack (5.10d) at Cardinal Pinnacle is REALLY good. Also not really a finger crack, but an incredible pitch. Every climb on Cardinal that I had done was really good. Crack Kingdom, West Face, V8 crack and Cucumbers...gotta go back there next year..
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
You should come play at the fords, v.. I've got Monday thru Wednesday free next week and the inversion layer at the fords makes winter climbing possible.

I been thinking about going there for the last two years. December/First part of January I work 5 days a week (aside from weekends), but when my schedule slows down I will have to bother you to get out there. Would be super excited to check it out.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
V ,, you should find someone that actually KNOWS the canyon.. Queefuss is far from that LMAO! Chims the guy for you..

I think both of you can show me many climbs! Never been there, so EVERYTHING will be new to me! lol If I can ever get out there....this weekend will try to get out and climb ice or stay home in the bay area. It will be freaking cold!
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Dec 5, 2013 - 09:57am PT
I think Mr Natural on Glacial Apron is great. I last led it 7 days prior to a guy being beheaded while holding his belay for his friend during a 150 ton rock fall. I had noted soft granite powder all over the route. Maybe some day I will climb it again.

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 9, 2014 - 03:37am PT
Bump
The Alpine

climber
May 23, 2015 - 09:34am PT
Fingers please
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 23, 2015 - 09:44am PT
You can easily count the awesome finger cracks in Cali. Not so for SE Utah.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 23, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Actually California, up North in Organ we got you beat.

David D.

Trad climber
California
May 23, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
Mr. Natural is so splitter it makes one giddy. A blind man could jam his way up that fingercrack by feel alone. So sweet.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
May 23, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
where I live I don't got much finger cracks but if you climb this finger thing 20times it'll feel like the Pirate at Suicide...
Friend

climber
May 23, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
Cracks like this are a dime a dozen at Woodson.

If you're into that sort of thing.

T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
May 23, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
ding-dong-dang-a-lang
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 24, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
Hey Andrew, is that crack the thing across the road from the Cave? Drawing a blank on the name. 10b or c or something...
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
May 24, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
May 24, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
I'm gonna put this one because it is soooo classic. And yes it is a finger crack, albeit with many face holds to use.
Friend

climber
May 25, 2015 - 08:52am PT
Bob, yep you got it of course, Digits Delight.

+1 for Bony Fingers, nice shot.

Is that the Acid Crack? Rad.
Messages 1 - 54 of total 54 in this topic
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