Discussion Topic |
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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I noticed a really high number of 5.11c fingercracks that are awesome. For example Espresso Crack at Little Egypt (Bishop area), 4th pitch of NF of the Rostrum, Butterballs at Cookie Cliff, and Pinky Paralysis (for my fingers felt much harder than 11c) at Finger Lickin’ area (Yosemite). So what are some awesome 5.11d/512 fingercracks in CA? Heard Equanox in Joshua Tree kicks ass. What are some good 5.10c-11b fingercracks?
Post some photos if you got them!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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This one's pretty nice...
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Equinox is one of the best ever!
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hamik
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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Burchey, I was trying to decide what to do what with the freezing temps at Josh this weekend. That pic makes me want to come back to Woodson. You free?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Did a random Tr burn once on a beauty fingercrack up at donner summit after bouldering one day, only time ive ever climbed up there unfortunately. Would have loved to have gone back & led it. I can't remember the name but it was on perfect stone with great fingercrackwork the whole way. Maybe 11c/d on snowshed wall, left side i think- anyone know the name of what I'm talking about? Anyways, awesome fingercrack of CA for sure.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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5.10c - 5.11b (Yosemite)
351. Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
2118. Mr. Natural 5.10c ***
130. Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
750. Little Wing 5.10d **
1422. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1448. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1606. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
2286. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2302. Manana 5.10d **
2590. The Thief 5.10d **
96. New Dimensions 5.11a ***
180. Hardd p1 5.11a ***
203. Butterfingers 5.11a **
204. Ladyfingers 5.11a **
1308. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **
1535. Knuckle Buster 5.11a **
1561. Book of Revelations 5.11a **
1698. Arches Terrace Direct 5.11a **
2220. Controlled Burn 5.11a **
2799. Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 ***
79. Anticipation 5.11b **
181. Hardd p2 5.11b ***
199. Aftershock 5.11b **
1062. The Moratorium 5.11b **
1147. Essence 5.11b **
1533. Maps and Legends 5.11b **
2151. Circuit Breaker 5.11b TR **
2701. Crack the Whip 5.11b **
2794. Crashline 5.11b **
2806. Hairline 5.11b **
5.11c - 5.12
137. Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
182. Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c ***
201. Butterballs 5.11c ***
2274. Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c **
2512. Soul Sacrifice 5.11c **
2717. The Rostrum - Regular North Face 5.11c ***
2746. The Viper 5.11c **
194. Red Zinger 5.11d ***
293. Gait of Power 5.11d **
2314. Whisker 5.11d **
2630. The Warbler 5.11d **
2807. Moongerms 5.11d **
122. Goldfinger 5.12a **
439. Tips 5.12a ***
414. Fish Crack 5.12b **
435. Robin 5.12b **
1843. The Chief 5.12b *** (long route with short finger crack crux)
2723. Rostrum Roof 5.12b ***
2724. Alien 5.12b ***
2750. Razor's Edge 5.12 **
1218. Follywood 5.12c **
from Routes by Type list:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
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The Alpine
climber
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Goldfinger - Tuolumne
Fatal Mistake - Elephant Rock
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Manic depression i think rings a bell Ron. Thanks, killer stone up there.
Edit- oh hey a climbing thread!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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All in jim - what a photo set. Hell yeah. Thank you for that.
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Friend
climber
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Hard as Nails 5.11+, at Mt Woodson
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Friend
climber
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The Emperor 5.11+, at the Needles
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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At the Palm Springs Tram... Coffman Crag... there is a 1 pitch climb 160 feet long...
Starts as a 11 squeeze chimney, keeps getting smaller as you go, by 1/3 its a finger crack then its a changing corner, still fingers... near the top the crack ends and you do some 11 face climbing then its 11 friction for the last few moves.....
"It's always something"
Kris Solem and crew
It will be iced up this weekend.... :>(
The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Check out this crack in a boulder by my house, it's taller than me! Totally a destination climb, let me know when you come over to give it a try and I'll take pictures.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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OAK --> SLC --> creekend. :-)
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The Alpine
climber
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Asleep at the Wheel, Mt Chamberlin.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Blues Riff at Tuolumne is excellent.
At Josh...Hot Rocks fits the bill.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Anyone mention: BONEYFINGERS Whitney Portal
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hamik
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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I thought Bony Fingers was more of a face climb with a tips crack for pro. It was pretty awesome though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Trona mention, nice Cosmic!
Is that on the DL, or is it the Domelands guide?
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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this one always amazes me!!!!
the nose!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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cool, thx Cosmic!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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It's in Poison Canyon on the way to Trona from Ridgecrest, Munge
Right side of the canyon just off the road.
a couple of other climbs are across on the other side of the road
named birdshit wall
I've done that thing. Isn't there also a nice dihedral on the same side as Flatfingers?
Curt
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.
Really nice--it you straighten it out with the direct start variation :-)
Curt
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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There's a couple of good climbs there in the canyon, Curt.
How long ago did you do Flatfingers, Curt?
I think I may have the FA on it I did it for the first time back in 74 75 when I started working in Trona at Kerr McGee.
It would have been 86 or 87, when I was working in the physics branch at the Naval Weapons Center. Al Green showed it to me.
Curt
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Only one sandstone pict!
Gerka .12- in Indian Creek, Comic Relief .12-, Dynamo Humm .11+(well that's mine so I'm prejudice). Second pitch of Fine Jade. I could go on, and on...
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Roadie
Trad climber
Bishop, Ca
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Oh yeah, Moonlight Buttress, the whole thing...
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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gota love that second pitch of central piller of frenzy right?
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Get this! I was actually born in Trona. Lucky break for me cuz no matter where I move, it's most likely better then where I came from.
I do like the Great Falls area, can be 30 degrees cooler in there then outside the canyon. Climbed a few things in Poison canyon too. All short but sweet. Tons of bouldering out there past Westend too, if you're into that sorta thing.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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i gotta recycle yesterday's entourage,
for today im spent chasing prosperity,
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Wild Kingdom 5.10c, Cardinal Pinnacle (on the upper part of Croft's "Crack Kingdom" linkup). And you can TR the 5.12 finger crack of the Prow on the way down.
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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30ft of fingers
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Digital delight
Phat slice
Blind Fairh pitch one
All Yosemite....
Dynamite Crack Cal Domes
To name a few not mentioned above.
All are at least 5.11+ or 5.12
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Here's a pic of All American Finger Crack.
It's a bit of a misnomer however because it widens as you go and ends with fist jams. It looks 5.11 from a distance but goes at 5.8 for the unreal first pitch. A great pitch, is probably in my top 5 single pitches all time.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Thanks for posting that pic Bergbryce. It's the first time iv'e seen it in the forty years since Bill Todd and I did the FA. Second pitch isn't bad either. My choice for best finger crack is pitch 6 and 8 of Rare Gem on Tahoe's Indian Rock and perhaps the first two pitches of Wall of the Worlds at Cal Dome. And i almost forgot Spacewalk.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Star Walls Crack, .13a, at Donner is a beautiful line. One of the best crack climbs around IMHO.
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Rick, I can't imagine how stoked you must have been when you first laid eyes on it! Such an incredible setting and a great line.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 02:51am PT
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Good call Rick Sumner!
First 2 pitches (when a friend and I did it I linked them) of War of the Walls (Cal dome) are incredible. Small roof leading to a 5.11a fingercrack, and than 5.10 thin hands through a roof...my god, that was an incredible pitch!!!!
And upper pitch of Croft's "Crack Kingdom" link up is VERY good. Can't call it a true fingercrack (pitch before 10b bolder problem I suppose?) but it is amazing. Way more enjoyable than wide stuff on P2.
Also V8 crack (5.10d) at Cardinal Pinnacle is REALLY good. Also not really a finger crack, but an incredible pitch. Every climb on Cardinal that I had done was really good. Crack Kingdom, West Face, V8 crack and Cucumbers...gotta go back there next year..
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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You should come play at the fords, v.. I've got Monday thru Wednesday free next week and the inversion layer at the fords makes winter climbing possible.
I been thinking about going there for the last two years. December/First part of January I work 5 days a week (aside from weekends), but when my schedule slows down I will have to bother you to get out there. Would be super excited to check it out.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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V ,, you should find someone that actually KNOWS the canyon.. Queefuss is far from that LMAO! Chims the guy for you..
I think both of you can show me many climbs! Never been there, so EVERYTHING will be new to me! lol If I can ever get out there....this weekend will try to get out and climb ice or stay home in the bay area. It will be freaking cold!
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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I think Mr Natural on Glacial Apron is great. I last led it 7 days prior to a guy being beheaded while holding his belay for his friend during a 150 ton rock fall. I had noted soft granite powder all over the route. Maybe some day I will climb it again.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump
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The Alpine
climber
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May 23, 2015 - 09:34am PT
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Fingers please
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2015 - 09:44am PT
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You can easily count the awesome finger cracks in Cali. Not so for SE Utah.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 23, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Actually California, up North in Organ we got you beat.
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David D.
Trad climber
California
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May 23, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
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Mr. Natural is so splitter it makes one giddy. A blind man could jam his way up that fingercrack by feel alone. So sweet.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 23, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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where I live I don't got much finger cracks but if you climb this finger thing 20times it'll feel like the Pirate at Suicide...
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Friend
climber
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May 23, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
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Cracks like this are a dime a dozen at Woodson.
If you're into that sort of thing.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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May 23, 2015 - 09:41pm PT
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ding-dong-dang-a-lang
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 24, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
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Hey Andrew, is that crack the thing across the road from the Cave? Drawing a blank on the name. 10b or c or something...
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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May 24, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
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I'm gonna put this one because it is soooo classic. And yes it is a finger crack, albeit with many face holds to use.
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Friend
climber
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May 25, 2015 - 08:52am PT
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Bob, yep you got it of course, Digits Delight.
+1 for Bony Fingers, nice shot.
Is that the Acid Crack? Rad.
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