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illusiondweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 21, 2013 - 10:30am PT

(not sure why this pic came out so small?)

You probably copy and pasted the thumbnail instead of clicking on the photo first, then copying it.

I think I soloed Robbins first in his "blue suede shoes" as well! But like the noob we are were at one time, I didn't provision how I was going to get down. I think I looked around and waited for someone with a rope to walk by, but to no avail. I had to do what I had to do. You're confidence soars when you become an unofficial Woodson "hardman."

Here's my friend Chris making it look easy:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Jumping down at the end is totally unacceptable, lol!

splitter

Trad climber

SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 21, 2013 - 11:51am PT

You probably copy and pasted the thumbnail instead of clicking on the photo first, then copied.

OK, figured it out, thanks, bro!

I'll re-post it here...

Your confidence soars when you become an unofficial Woodson "hardman"

LOL!

Not sure if I ever even attained the unofficial hardman status. Flailure seemed to be just around every corner, as I recall. But flailing on stuff, particularly with a top rope, is how you improve, get stronger, "Or something?", eh?

Here's a pic of an official Woodson hardman, BVB soloing the Undertow Roof at Woodson, bitd...

GDavis - Yep, regarding soloing, its all relative. But, talk about "hairball" highballs, if ya pitch on Undertow yer burnt toast/going the distance (50-60 ft of airtime, then ya splat on a slab/boulder and then rag-doll another 30+ ft)...Yikes.

Rick Piggott, another official Woodson hardman, leading Undertow, mid 80's...
according to BVB, the undercling variation is .11d & the standard straight in OW is .12b! But dems Woodson 11d & 12b, brah! ...just sayin!!

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Nov 21, 2013 - 11:58am PT

No shame in TR'ing hairball woodson problems. NOBODY leads out there, it's TR or Solo baby. One of the coolest things I'd witnessed in climbing was a visitor from San Fran who was a pretty good, but not incredible, climber (maybe 5.10ish?) onsight solo jaws. He was gripped and went for it and blew us away. That thing is locker if you got the skillz, but he held on and fought it through and whooped and hollered on top. Ballsy, rad, etc.

My favorite way these days to climb at woodson is with a crash pad, few of the problems are TR'able but the best stuff you could/should get with a pad and a spotter (I Hear My Train, Drivin' South, Robbins/Baby, Johns, Cave escape...).

Speaking of The Cave, it has an easy escape that makes it about ~V2, if you want to get a good pump without scrambling up top or putting on a harness.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Nov 21, 2013 - 02:31pm PT

I go 1-2 times a week, let me know! I'll show you my secretz!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Nov 21, 2013 - 02:38pm PT

you should try lead climping at some point. I heard it is fun.

illusiondweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 21, 2013 - 02:39pm PT

NOBODY leads out there,

NOBODY?

There's a five bolt lead down the east ridge, and a half dozen others, but you're right, people don't come to Woodson to lead, and they sure don't come to solo! But you WILL if you return often enough. Hard As Nails is a cool gear lead, as is IHMT.

Burchy, if you're going to lead Robbins, run up to the stance a third of the way up, place a piece above you, and run it out to the top. nothing else is needed. Don't forget "slings and things" for the rap.

illusiondweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 21, 2013 - 02:52pm PT

I practice downclimbing the splitter at the gym, maybe 40 feet tall with a small roof, but it's bomber big hands. We'll see.

(pssst...he's going to do it!)

illusiondweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 21, 2013 - 02:55pm PT

I think I should just hike up with my shoes, my chalkbag, and my balls.

you juggle too?

splitter

Trad climber

SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 21, 2013 - 04:42pm PT

Gettin after it/outta towners onsight solo a couple Wudzin classicss recently (last Spring)...
[Click to View YouTube Video]

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Nov 21, 2013 - 05:13pm PT

The crux of robbins is low, there is a pod near the top that makes the down climb wayyyy easier than it might look. Deeep jams for the top 2/3.

illusiondweller

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Nov 21, 2013 - 05:48pm PT

The crux of robbins is low

Yup...I thumb-cam down there off the ground with tight toes, as I start Babby Robbins as well.

there is a pod near the top

Edit: Standing on that "bivy ledge" rest @ 1/3 height, I use to drop a perlon slung #12 curved stopper in that pod, which you "cam" era pups have probably never touched/seeen/heard of before. For educational/practical purposes, it would BEHOOVE you to obtain one of these aforementioned pieces of 6061 ALUMINIUM and experience a textbook lesson in perfect stopper placements!

splitter

Trad climber

SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 21, 2013 - 06:11pm PT

The crux of Robbins is low.

wudever.

I always thought it was appropriately rated 5.9 by Robbins in the day of clunky boots. So now there's specialized crack shoes with exxxtremely sticky rubber and they call it .10a! Frankly, its difficult to distinguish a crux on it period, on the ascent. Backing off the top its those first few jams where it steepens. I do vaguely recall that lower part requiring a bit more consideration on the descent, now that I think about it, but 5.10 (maybe on the descent)? Kinda streatching it though, from what I recall, imo! As early as the advent of EB's, the rating shoulda went from a 5.9+ to a .9-, not the other way...wuddupwitdat? I climbed at Woodson into the 90's and there are some stout ratings, but RC isn't one of them, imo!

edit: Illusiondweller - have you moved back to the San Diego area from back east? just wondering!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Nov 21, 2013 - 06:15pm PT

Maybe try lead climbing after you come to the slideshow, I want to see you alive Burchy!

splitter

Trad climber

SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane

Nov 22, 2013 - 12:33am PT

I'll show you my secretz!

no doubts. dudes got it dialed.

a couple cool Wudzin vids by the man himself. Not sure if ya posted these here on ST yet GD, or planned to do so another thread later on (since one is a recent release) so hope ya don't mind/let me know if ya want me to delete, eh? ...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
[Click to View YouTube Video]
... LD RIP!

edit: btw, sumbody ottah tell that 'Splitter' n00b/d00d up thread to, STFU!!! lol