Yup JD is on it. Pass the sunscreen. Ice climbing is nothing more than high altitude, underpaid construction work. Ifin you can pound nails you can ascend la glace. The trick is to never fall, have Popeye forearms and a leash! Leashless is bs. I like leashes and lot's o' pro. Old Lowe drive in/screw outs. You could fasten yourself to almost any icicle very fast. Good for the head. I don't know if they held but good for the head.
Breashears and I once climbed the Black Dike on Cannon without tools, well only for placing and removing pro. That was fun cause it did not seem like construction work. Heh Heh
Are people really toproping Bridalveil and Ames and the like? Colorado used to be pretty quiet. No more huh?
Last time I was in Lee Vining was 1985, not crowded at all. Ran into Ron Kauk, who I knew a bit from Camp 4 - climbed Main Wall, Right Flow and Chouinard Falls. Last time I was on ice was also in 1985, Sequoia NP with my friends Ron (not Kauk) and Jeff. X-C skied in, did some small routes (couple of pitches) and I led one long climb about five pitches up some gully, as I was the most experienced on ice (and I am not).
Also, 1985 was the last time I climbed a mountain (the three Mexican volcanoes - Ixta, Popo and Orizaba).
I love ice, rock more so. Ice/snow - Mt Shasta, Mt St Helens before it blew, Mount Olympus (Olympic NP), Mt Shuksan (Price Glacier), V-Notch, U-Notch, Dana Glacier (Tuolumne) unroped (easy peasy), still have Rainer and Hood on my tick list. And the Bugaboos, and Chamonix and Alaska and…
… the list just seems to be getting longer and I am getting shorter.
I also understand that there is some good ice in the June Lake area. Conditions in Ireland are not always "right" but on Lugnaquilla in the Wicklow Mountains, there can be, at times some good ice climbing in North Prison (what a name). I was suppose to go there several years back when conditions were superb, but Jennie's illness prevented such a trip (we were living in Dalkey at the time).
That same winter I was due to go to Glen Coe and Ben Nevis, but again… Jen was shortly out of hospital.
Sigh, at least I have saved my knuckles from taking a beating.
The last ice climb i actually enjoyed was the Diamond Couilor on Mt. Kenya.in 2005....interesting mixed climbing off the deck followed by a pleasant romp up a beautiful peak.
The last rock climb i enjoyed was three days ago to be followed by one tomorrow.
I personally like the changing nature of ice. It is really never the same climb twice. My friend Dawn Glanc always told me she would rather have a warm day of ice climbing than a cold day of rock climbing.