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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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Ramp up Yer Scanners Kidz!
I know you got the goods,
So 'Git Teh Werk Please...
Mt Lyell,
During a 20 hr day,
From TMeadows,
Over Amelia Earhart,
Maclure, then Lyell and stuff in between...
Tim Messick
3rd class ridge towards Maclure:
Dog Tired,
Maclure Summit:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
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Besides goin' up Lyell Canyon,
Here's the ridges:
Lyell right of center, the rockier cone of Maclure right again.
You can see Banner and Ritter on the far left.
L to R,
Amelia Earhart, Lyell, Maclure:
This pic jumbles the order of the traverse,
Lyell is the prominent snowy peak at center and the finish.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jul 23, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
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Earnhardt/Maclure/Lyell--egads, that's the Jaybro Trifecta!
Good call, Tar. Back in a sec.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
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Here's where we "got on"
At the col left of Amelia Earhart:
She's a Beauty; with broad geometric flanks.
The surrounding basin:
On the way to Maclure & Lyell,
(Gotta' turn left first):
This is from Earhart's Summit.
You can just barely see Tim at the center of foreground.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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Looking toward Maclure and Lyell, to the East:
We broke out the 9 mil and some big hexes for Maclure's 4th class:
We left the gas station at 4am,
"Rat Room" guides shack actually,
Stumbled back in at midnight.
It's a long march out!
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jul 23, 2006 - 02:05pm PT
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Some fellers from SoCal doing the Sun Ribbon Toss.
More Temple
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jul 23, 2006 - 02:18pm PT
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Cathedral Peak Bacon Fry, 7/21/06
*sizzle*
*bzzzzt*
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 23, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
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Tar, I did that exact day, back in '99 or so I always wondered if anybody else had done that car to car in a day. Now I know!
Coolness is!
I put it in the book, for Jaun!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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Gee that's swell!
Maybe we did it around then too...
'97 - '99 or something.
Banner's N Ridge is next on my pie list!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 23, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
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Take an axe, think about crampons!
Banner
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
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No doubt!
This is why I recommend real boots for peak bagging.
I had a light ax and the Robbins boots allowed a nice stiff kick in the snowfield on Mount Lyell.
Perfunctory, straightforward style of ascent.
Tim on the other hand, had a Ramer self arrest pole and medium weight running shoes; he had to muck around on the edge of the snow while intermittently holding onto the rock. He is mountain wise, and I knew he'd be OK, but he agreed an ax to plunge and stiff boots to kick steps are nice.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 23, 2006 - 03:11pm PT
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Banner North Face
Liz Summit of Dana
No sierra summer trip is complete without taking time out for 'ritas on the beach!
And, Roy I found you
a new Kuh boy hat!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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Ahh Ain't No Flatlander!
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 23, 2006 - 04:29pm PT
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Gibbs.
Dana summit.
You figure them out.
Up on Humphreys.
Williamson summit.
Tyndall.
Tyndall Williamson area.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 23, 2006 - 05:08pm PT
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Moon Goddess arete on Temple Crag (left)
Third Lake from up on Moon Goddess arete.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 23, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
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On the Swiss Arete about 15 yrs ago...
The twin summits of Thunderbolt Pk. True summit is the one on the right...
Mt Winchell and Mt Aggaziz...
Skinning a chicken on Polymoium Peak...
Sierra Wave from Brainard Lake...
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 23, 2006 - 07:13pm PT
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The North Face of Mt Mendel...
Captain Scott Cole in the right Mendel Col about 20 years ago...
Sorry about the quality of all these, but I'm scanning prints or slides that have been collecting dust for 20 years or more.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 07:38pm PT
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Awesome Dudes!
Mendel Couloir:
for those who missed the ice 9 thread,
All photos Sean Curtis.
1981.
My buddy, who went down (up) the big pipeline in the sky.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 23, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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Descending the crux chockstone on the Le Conte route North Pal. It was a low snow year and closer to 5.8 (only a couple of moves) than 4th on the way up.
North Pal again. This time the U Notch.
On The West side route on Starlight, (reputedly 4th class)
The 3rd class traverse on Starlight.
The imfamous "milk bottle" The wind was a howlin, didn't get on top of it.
Black Bart descending Polemonium
Muir and Whitney on a 4-teener attempt. (Langley to Russell). It started snowing at Muir and we bailed down the tourist trail.
Don and Bill at the fresh air traverse, Whitney
Cruuzzin on Mathes
Cruuzin on Tennia
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
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Sweet TGT!
Sweet.
More Please.
I think Richard speaks truth.
No matter.
Post on Charlemagne.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 23, 2006 - 08:14pm PT
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The best way to deal with the U-Notch bergschrund...
Climbing the east face of Mt Muir in 1973...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 08:19pm PT
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Skinny skis!
That is so proud.
Let's see that on V Notch.
Gauntlet down.
Tarbousier.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 23, 2006 - 08:20pm PT
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We were attempting North Pal, Still haven't got Middle, (long story) so the slip. Yes that's Gayley back across the glacier.
Here's Middle
I'm fascinated by this side of the Palasades. just wish I'd discovered it 20 years earlier whe I'd had a chance at some of those aretes.
More Tennia
More Mathes
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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That photograph of the Middle Palisade is to die for!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 23, 2006 - 08:36pm PT
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Split from the saddle with Prather.
Descending the 2nd class route was the closest I ever came to killin myself, my partner, and a disinterested third party on the snow patch below. Had a block the size of an upright piano come off just as I steped out from in front of it.
The classic shot of Split.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 23, 2006 - 08:41pm PT
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Long lake in the Middle-Pal drainage with the Thumb? on the upper right...EDIT: oopsie -- I meant upper left.
... and 2 views of Norman Clyde Peak (anyone who carries cast iron skillets into the high country is my hero)...
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jul 23, 2006 - 08:46pm PT
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These are delicious, boys.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Jul 24, 2006 - 02:46am PT
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Just a Bump.
Because this is bitchen sh-t!
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 24, 2006 - 11:23am PT
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love your "sizzle" captions...
A fun lightning story...
Me and a droog decided to do the SE Butt on Cathedral one summer back in the 70's and though the thunder bumpers were materializing every afternoon, we decided to get and early start and go light, figuring we could get off quickly and easily enough if the deluge came.
Sure enough, as we got close to the summit it started to rain and by the time we got back to the base we were soaked and shivering and scared -- the lightning was very close, hitting all around us and the thunder was deafening, sending shivers up my spine with every bolt. Then a bolt zapped a small group of trees in the saddle between Cathedral and the Echo peaks about 200 yards from us, setting the trees on fire.
So, in our mind numbing freeze and going with the "lightning never strikes twice" theory/myth, we ran right over there, warmed up and dried out our clothes while the storm passed. Perhaps the coolest campfire I've ever had.
Cathedral Peak from the Echo peaks (different trip).
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telemama
Trad climber
midpines
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Jul 24, 2006 - 12:01pm PT
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Thanks, Roy, for the pics.
And the chuckle...
"This is why I recommend real boots for peak bagging... Tim on the other hand, had a Ramer self arrest pole and medium weight running shoes; he had to muck around on the edge of the snow while intermittently holding onto the rock.He is mountain wise so I knew he'd be OK, but he agreed an ax to plunge and stiff boots are nice."
LOL. That's our Tim for ya. He'd still be skiing chutes in snowfields if ya let him! As is, he thinks his T3s are "just fine". "It's all about Technique." Is what he would say. He's a minimalist and ya gotta love him for it.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 24, 2006 - 12:12pm PT
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So many great photos!
Here's my only good one, Mt. Humphreys:
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 24, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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I only have winter photos available right now....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
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Er, um...
*bump*
Note Claude's knatty knickers and dapper kronies.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 24, 2006 - 08:59pm PT
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goatboy smellz
climber
shakedown street
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Jul 24, 2006 - 10:25pm PT
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"mmm...which way back to the car...
north to Longs...
no east always east, down,down,down here comes da rain!"
Tar,
I'm guessing your running up in your backyard tween waitin for the dialup to dialdown.
Yah gotta love Audubon for a quickie.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2006 - 01:47am PT
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Methinks you 'jus got cross posted Goatboy!
No matter,
Ya just reminded me of some slides fer that Rockies thread-a-mick-bobber.
There, there, this'll right the ship back inta' the High Sierra:
Top of the Unicorn:
Me 'N Messick climbed an 'Ole 5.9 A3 route: Direct N Face.
Felt like a 10c Lieback Teh Me...
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goatboy smellz
climber
shakedown street
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Jul 25, 2006 - 08:05am PT
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Nope did it on purpose. Keeping "Primetime" thread for the here and now.
"Scrambled Light" for what ever I discover in the old photo box.
Also tryin to bump all that political stuff off the main page... help me kids, post away.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 25, 2006 - 12:00pm PT
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South Face of Mt Russell...
Chicken Skinner atop Polymonium Peak at sunset...
Two views of a little "scramble" at Whitney Portal, mid-80's...
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goatboy smellz
climber
shakedown street
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Jul 25, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
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go large go!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2006 - 01:47pm PT
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...and after the sunset atop the palisades richard large,
then what did y'all do?
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 25, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
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Tarbaby: We summited North Pal and then we almost died descending to the west in the loosest and most dangerous gully I've ever set foot in. An epic of chopped ropes and destroyed gear. Sometimes ya gotta feel lucky to still be alive.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2006 - 10:11am PT
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I figured there must be an epic story there.
For our 16th birthdays, my best buddy and I did a grand tour, starting at Lamark Col where we skipped Mendel couloir due to snail eye, down into the evolutions, eventually over Agassiz Col and finally up the U Notch.
After summiting North Pal, we descended the backside of the U Notch, because we were slow, and it was late in the day. The day before, we had seen freight train car sized blocks coming down the U Notch and we did not want to be there in soft conditions.
So we bivied below in the Palisade Basin. Then we hoofed it all way around to the east side of Mt Sill and made a series of rappels next to the V Notch.
Sometimes, you gotta take a break between scrambles, have a glass of wine, think about past scrambles and plans some new ones with your buddies.
I had just scrambled from Tioga pass, following the ridge to Jagged Peak, ending up at Lembert Dome.
You can see a piece of the ridge above Carol, Tom, and Chuck in this picture. Here, we were on a walk out to the old rescue site out behind Soda Springs.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Baldwin Park, Calif.
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Jul 26, 2006 - 11:04am PT
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Very, very cool! Great pics and they jar so many of my own memories of days in the Sierra. Wondering, has anyone done the splitter crack up the face of the Ibirium Tower on the Moon Goddess?
Keep those pics comming untill yer scanner burns out! Thanks,
Tony
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2006 - 11:28pm PT
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Here is a Little Stroll,
A Road Less Traveled-
From Tioga Pass down to the Meadows:
Taken from the top of Lembert,
You can see a ridge that carries from Tioga pass,
With Mt Dana on the right,
All the way to ragged peak on the left.
It starts on the trail,
But follows it only a short while
Before heading north to connect to the Ridge.
Lions Head Rock?
Also Mt Dana are seen across the way
From the traihead at the pass.
Most of it is a walk,
This is looking back at some of the easy third class terrain,
From the middle of the traverse:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
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You get some nice views of Mount Conness:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2006 - 11:32pm PT
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A view of the big sidewalk in the sky,
heading out toward Ragged Peak,
then down to a trail,
and out to Lembert:
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Jul 27, 2006 - 01:36am PT
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Middle Pal...the easy way up
and the easy way down
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Jul 27, 2006 - 01:41am PT
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and since this thread is already too wide for my little ole screen...I'll add pano
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Jul 27, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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SE Face of Emerson...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 27, 2006 - 08:48am PT
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What a great thread. Wish I had more to contribute.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 27, 2006 - 09:49am PT
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Nice shots of Emerson, sort of an under-rated peak.
On the way to Conness:
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goatboy smellz
climber
shakedown street
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Jul 27, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
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Cross country skiing in the Gros Ventre Range, Wyoming
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jul 27, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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Back to the Range of light:
Partying with Gnarlton on the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.
Gnarlton down off the Mithral
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 27, 2006 - 09:52pm PT
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more winter....
Mountaineers Route:
Bloody Mountain:
Mammoth:
and a few from today.....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2006 - 10:14pm PT
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Nice BCD,
And wait just a darned tootin' minute pahdner,
Whut's that rock wall 2 pics north?
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 27, 2006 - 10:40pm PT
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that's the south face of Conness, taken from the west ridge.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2006 - 10:51pm PT
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oh shoot.
And I 'been on it too.
Up high, 'doin the traverse after the OW, 6" of hail piled up around my feets and we bailed.
Cheers,
Tarbousier.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 27, 2006 - 11:04pm PT
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Sh#t Tar
You've been everywhere, and still not satisfied?
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andanother
climber
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Jan 28, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
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mid winter bump
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2007 - 01:09am PT
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Well said.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Spectacular, thanks again for the bump.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 23, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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bump
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 24, 2015 - 07:21am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Merci for the bump on this magnificent thread.
Mt. Lyell trip with Jim Shirley...all photos credited to him, please.
I'm too lazy to change the attributions.
Started from the car at 2 or 3 p.m. The Tuolumne facilities were closing for the season.
Bears struck the food stash in Lyell Canyon.
We crossed Donohue Pass at leisure (we are getting AWAY, not trying to beat the clock) only to camp in the afternoon in the meadows below, on the south side of the pass, resting easy, rolling fatties.
Arising with the sun, we trailed south to the turn-off from the Muir Trail to Marie Lakes and strolled up to the talus below the southern part of Lyell. Once on the upper reaches we turned a corner and broke out the rope for one pitch, then I got to climb a longish jam to the ridge proper.
We summited, then descended the cuppy glacier, crossed the Tuoulumne and went back over Donohue to the camp, then came out the same way.
No burgers at the Meadows for it was shut tight for the winter.
In no particular order.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Palisades-Cruising-in-1982/t11866n.html
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/A-Ramble-in-Lynne-Leichtfuss-Land-Mt-Conness-from-the-East-1974/t11619n.html
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 24, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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Sierra Nevada yogi contemplating the Oneness...
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Feb 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Feb 24, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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