"Prime Time in the Rockies" ....(Scrambles Part 5)

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Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2006 - 11:52am PT
Now you folks enjoying prime season,
Bring Yer Cameras!
Post Up!


Mt Evans,
14K Something.
Leave a car on the Summit
For the descent!
"Boiler Plates"
5.6ish right facing corner
Ormes Guide had the features listed.

My Clients,
Jillian and Denny,
From the Island of Jersey
I got 'em on a simul belay.
They were competent characters.

Dennis nearing the top,
Pitch 3 or 4:
Summit Lake below him,
You can drive to that...


Here's the link to part 4, "Rumble..."
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=215824&f=0&b=0
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 23, 2006 - 11:56am PT
I was hoping you would start another chapter. #4 was getting big.
sketchy

Trad climber
Vagrant
Jul 23, 2006 - 12:01pm PT
Tarbaby, Is the route in the lower picture on the upper picture? And aint this hill near Denver?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
Yes Sketch,
Mount Evans just west of Denver, and you can see it from downtown.
It has the highest paved road in the continental US?
Or lower 48, or something...

All three pictures are of the the route on the boiler plate.
We parked at Summit Lake, you can see the parking lot in the picture; the lake is not on the summit, but it sits conveniently near the base of the route. My wife was running a race up the road, (which she won!), she subsequently got a lift back down to summit Lake and drove our car to the summit to meet us and drove us down after we topped out.
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Jul 23, 2006 - 12:12pm PT
Uh oh, here we go again -- dammit roy, now I have to dig through photos again.
sketchy

Trad climber
Vagrant
Jul 23, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
Cool, I guess I will buy that guide. I get alot of stand-by time in denver with my job, I am always wanting to climb but have no partners. Pictures of tall and easy (women or climbs) always gets my heart going.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
Ormes guide is probably way out of print.
It only vaguely notes the boilerplates as an objective.

There is some good info on the Mountain Project site.
Our line followed the right side of a brown jagged right facing feature; visible just left of the obvious right facing edge/corner in the primary face, (as it appears in the top picture).
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 23, 2006 - 12:51pm PT
What nut goes in here? Working up the summit pitch of Dog Star, McHenrys Peak.

bob d'antonio

climber
boulder, co
Jul 23, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
Near Forest Lakes Trail.


goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 24, 2006 - 10:57pm PT
Up on Kelso Ridge, Torreys Peak with a crow making it look easy, overlooking Grays.


Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2006 - 11:54pm PT
Might be a Raven.
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 25, 2006 - 07:59am PT
Happened to fast to tell, all I know she was black & beautiful.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jul 25, 2006 - 09:08am PT
Don Juan
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jul 25, 2006 - 09:16am PT
I would guess the Ormes guide is still around. Below is the last copy I have in the library, but seems like I saw a 10th ed. somewhere. Bob Ormes died a few years back.

GUIDE TO THE COLORADO MOUNTAINS
Colorado Mountain Club with Robert Ormes
CMC, 1992 (9th Edition)
332pp
ISBN # 0-917895-38-X
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 25, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
Lou Dawsons guide is still in print, he doesn't mention the boiler plates specifically but he mentions the logistics of getting there.


The route should be easy to spot between Tarb's first photo and this map you can see the remaining snow in the ski route 3.4.2.
The farthest right northwest ridge partially out of frame is route 3.4.3.
(Reposted photo, just to make dialup hell;)
Cheers,

bob d'antonio

climber
boulder, co
Jul 25, 2006 - 02:23pm PT
Jaybro wrote: Don Juan


Looks more like don Genaro to me.

goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 25, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
"In the summer of 1966 Ramón Medina showed Peter Furst what it meant to have balance. Knowing his anthropologist friend lacked the power to see the narrow bridge a Huichol shaman must walk to cross the great chasm separating the ordinary world from the otherworld beyond, the curandero determined to give him a concrete demonstration of physical balance in this world standing for spiritual balance in that world.

Ramón led his party to a spectacular waterfall, from whose edge the water dropped hundreds of feet to the valley below. As his Huichol companions sat in a semicircle to watch, Ramón took his sandals off, gestured to the world directions, then leapt–or flew–from one rock to another with arms stretched wide, often landing but a few inches from the slippery edge. Now he vanished behind a boulder, now he stood motionless on the brink of destruction, but never did he or his Huichol observers show the slightest concern that he might fall, though the visitors from California were terrified."



Ramon Medina Silva performing waterfall balancing (courtesy of David Christie)

edit: notice the cloud shadow or tree shade in the back ground mirrors his stance.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
spooks, witchcraft, things that go bump in the mind.
that's a really fun shot and history BTW.
Kevster

Trad climber
Evergreen, CO
Jul 25, 2006 - 06:28pm PT
Spearhead after the storm.

goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 26, 2006 - 11:25pm PT
Felt like a little hike today after work,




and it felt gooooood!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
I'll pipe in some Flat Iron stuff after a while,
That is surely scrambling for the most part.
Berg Heil!
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 27, 2006 - 12:07am PT
Oh forgot to mention it, that's the north face of Seal rock, a real hairy trad X route goes up that babe.
The east face you can do in your flipflops.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2006 - 12:44am PT
Du-hude!
Them are fightin' werds.
Southern Sun, Friday, Java Porters at 10 paces...
In Flip Flops if You So Deem it.

East Face of Seal Rock:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2006 - 12:50am PT

Plus Goatster,
That route Arceopteryx on Seal,
We rappeled it.
It's Light.

Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jul 27, 2006 - 08:45am PT
Mike Gilbert on Powell Peak, 1976.

goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 27, 2006 - 10:16am PT
YIPE! That liquid courage can get a boy into trouble.
I'm too old to want to die now (*o*)
Good thing I didn't say rollerskates up the Third during the full moon.
Ahem, ye olde flipflops after the fixin.

Way cooool rap shot that headwall makes my palms sweat.
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 27, 2006 - 11:24pm PT
Hey Tar, are we drinkin or climbin on Friday?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
Jeepers,
How bout both?!
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 28, 2006 - 12:19am PT
Cool... I'll bring my new La Sportiva Flopulators, based on the classic Kaukulator mold, you can flop around your house, flop around town, flop up a climb, flop down a climb, flipty flopty flew!!!
Sundowner say 4?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2006 - 12:25am PT
done.
4pm.
we'll have a beer then flop out to eldo.
goatboy smellz

climber
shakedown street
Jul 28, 2006 - 12:40am PT
Done.
goatboy smellz

climber
up a peak without a paddle
Jul 29, 2006 - 01:51am PT
Next!!! Into the wind kite practice... run for dah thumb?

Matron east face
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2006 - 02:04am PT
Really Awsome Idea.
Let's Do 'Er!

May need a support team to nab the photo...
goatboy smellz

climber
up a peak without a paddle
Jul 29, 2006 - 09:05am PT
More the merrier!
Euroford

Trad climber
Chicago, IL
Jul 31, 2006 - 11:06am PT
not exacly scrambling, but i really dig this shot.

i'm heading up on pitch 6 of the dunn/westbay with steve chillin.

bob d'antonio

climber
boulder, co
Jul 31, 2006 - 11:29am PT
South of the border...Colorado border of course!


taco bill

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 31, 2006 - 12:05pm PT
Who's up for a first post closure run up the third tomorrow in the early am?
6 am at chataqua?
goatboy smellz

climber
up a peak without a paddle
Jul 31, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
Gotta be down at the DTC lookin all professional like at 8am, how about Wednesday?

taco bill

Trad climber
boulder, co
Jul 31, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
Hey goat,
Have tentative plans to go do something in RMNP wednesday, but if that doesn't work out you're on.
adam
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Aug 2, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
A nice little "scramble" from a couple of weeks ago -- the Kor Route on the Saber up in Rocky Horror Picture Park....
First pitch (crux)...
Second pitch...
Looking down on the Petite Grepon from the summit. Some climbers are visible near the left edge...
Howard on the summit...
Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Aug 2, 2006 - 09:22pm PT
And yet another recent little scramble -- Directissima on the Chasm View Wall (up near the Diamond)... 2 views of climbing into a cloud with intermittent hail and sleet on the fourth pitch...
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Aug 3, 2006 - 10:34am PT
An easy section on Warhead (5.9), Arrowhead Peak.

Richard Large

climber
where you least expect
Aug 3, 2006 - 12:20pm PT
Camp at Vallecito Lake, Needle Range, Weimenuche Wilderness, SW Coloratto...
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