Let's play: name that cam!

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adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Nov 5, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
Quite right, Jonny. It screws with the effective cam angle royally. Here's a pic of a yellow/red CCH that wasn't so good.... Tipped out the cam angle was pretty close to normal, but not when retracted:


I have the angle measurements notated somewhere, but not sure where at the moment. Easy enough to throw a protractor on the screen if you're that interested.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Nov 5, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Wasn't there a recall of a particular batch of orange Aliens with misplaced hole?
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Nov 5, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
How did you mark your gear? The stamps on these, the characters look like factory stamps, only about 1/16 inch tall, and though a couple have W, they are followed by a 9 or a 6. If I ended up with one of yours somehow, and you can ID it, its all yours. Theives suck!
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Nov 5, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
True. Things have a way of turning up in strange places though sometimes. Who really knows the story on Fleabay gear... like ya said, as long as it works. But a little bit of karma doesnt hurt.
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Nov 5, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Wasn't there a recall of a particular batch of orange Aliens with misplaced hole?


Not that I recall, Scuffy. All the ones I've seen are that way, which is why John Field built the Cam Fitter in the first place.
Greg Barnes

climber
Nov 5, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
The axle, however, is quite far from the center of the spiral, which causes the cam to do some pretty funky things in terms of range and holding power.
So could you describe the funky things? Seems at a first guess that it'd be larger range and less holding power in general?
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Nov 5, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Seriously didn't mean to drift the thread this far, so apologies to the OP.

Greg- Good news/Bad news. I found the angle measurement data, but it's buried in this 7MB pdf: http://theclimbinglab.com/tiki-download_wiki_attachment.php?attId=12&page=CCH%20Alien%20Testing&download=y

A very quick scan of the document turned up that within the 20 or so CCH Aliens I tested, effective cam angle at the limits (fully retracted/tipped out) and at the midpoint ranged from 7 degrees to 28 degrees.

Edit- Should probably point out for those not into cam design, 7 degrees means severely limited range and much higher holding force and 28 degrees has fantastic range but holding force below what typical rock-on-aluminum can support. Meaning it'll skate out *every time*. IIRC the empirical limit on typical North American rock types is ~18 degrees, with limestone and shale being much lower ~14 degrees.
jonnyrig

Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
Well, if you knew what cam angle each company used, you could throw a lobe up on that program and use that to help ID it. Or, at least you'd know what rock type it's built for best. And in the case of sketchball cams or home-made cams, you can at least guestimate whether the thing is even useful.
adatesman

climber
philadelphia, pa
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
Actually, Jonny, he already has the cam-angle-by-company thing worked in. It's the dropdown box in the upper left, and is used when the "best fit" box isn't checked.

Alternatively use the best fit (with the calculated center to verify validity of the fit) to calculate the cam angle and then back into which manufacturer it might have been.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Dec 6, 2013 - 03:38am PT
I missed this thread so I am sorry to be late.
Jonnyrig, I suspect that your Three Cam Unit (with the pink sewn sling) is an early Cable Cam #2 made by Canadian Alpine Manufacturing (David Oldridge’s second company) in 1986.

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