favorite off set nuts?

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climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Nov 1, 2013 - 10:46am PT

^^ +1

Hey Batrock it was nice meeting you up there this fall. Hope you got those pics. I'm glad you didn't push it with improper gear. I've seen a nasty fall on that pitch.

I've led those pitchs below Grey ledges at least three times, maybe 4. Never did em clean aid though. Aid wise that thin one is fairly straight forward A1. Clean.. dunno I'd guess C2+ or C3 (stupid aid ratings bitd oldschool definately a 3) cause theres a solid chance of a bad fall. Watched a guy take a 30+ foot zipper right below us one time. He fell all the way to the belay ledge. Really messed up both feet but they were able to self rescue. Earlier he had been giving me a bit of stinkeye for pulling out the hammer and was going on about how the pitch a was only C2. At the time I somewhat rudely made a probably audible comment of "so much for clean aid"

Now this was all over 14 years ago and going clean was a little less common but I'd really want to do it clean now. Yet I'm not even close to being an Ammon McNeely balls of steel aid climber. I tend to either pull out the pins if skeered or better yet on El-Cap I should just stay off routes if I can't do C2+ at least.

Not with the gear I had though. I'd want a good assortment the regular suspects in small cams. Why not have 4 sets (mebbe more) of them smallest 3 or 4 cams in various flavors. (alien offsets the BDs ..mebbe even the new tiny WCs.)

Then an assortment of all the offsets mentioned in the thread earlier.

This small stuff isn't a major weight issue for aiding.

Also camhooks, (love em) and a few different beaks for handplacing as well. hooks.

Having the right pro for a spot can sure make aid ratings drop a solid level or more. C3 can definately become C2 or better with just a couple solid placements.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Nov 1, 2013 - 11:04am PT

I have found the Metolius curved nuts to be difficult to remove after weighting ...

Heck, just set them good and you'll have a hard time getting 'em out! I used them for about a week before I tossed them--I had too hard a time getting them out on the lead if I chose the wrong size and wanted to try a larger/smaller one!

But for the real offset nuts, just check out the climate warming thread.