favorite off set nuts?

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Messages 1 - 24 of total 24 in this topic
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Anyone used the new BD off sets much yet? Also thoughts on Astro Nuts or can they even be considered off set. Looking at beefing up my tiny off set arsenal and only have used Peenuts.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 31, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Peenuts, and DMM Offset alloys are the best.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
The DMM Offsets are the go-to nuts when I'm wall climbing.
MisterE

climber
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
HB/DMM brassies!

DesertRatExpeditions

Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
The only nuts I carry anymore are the HB(DMM) Offsets. I do occasionally find placements that a good ol' stopper would work better in, but it doesn't happen often enough for me to carry them.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
HB's all the way. Little expensive though.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Peanuts if free climbing. Brass nuts will rip every time on a lead fall!
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
+Juan for DMM nuts!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Right now I have a hodge podge of tiny wires collected over the past 35 years but very few off sets. My failure on El Cap drove home the need to build up my off set rack. I have been slowly collecting off set cams but still need to beef up there too. I think a double or triple set of HB Off Sets and a narrow cam hooks would have been the ticket for our last climb. I'm itching to get back on El Cap ASAP.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
I'm not a fan of BD nuts and certainly not the Metolius Astro nuts.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Good to know about the Astro nuts, seem like they could be ok for free climbing but wouldn't perform as good as HB's for aid.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
DMM, duh!!!
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
I used a few of the Astro nuts on the Shield and didn't like them. I back-cleaned before I used them again. The DMM #4 brass offset was the ticket on the 2 pitches above Mammoth on the Shield.
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
I LOVE me DMM offset nuts!!!!!! the little brass and the big aluminum, I dont even bring my BD nuts to yosemite!
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Oct 31, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
DMM Offest = awesome. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut = awesome too, just not quite as much. The Metolius set comes in a much larger range, and I usually carry both the DMM and Metolius sets when free climbing.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
I'm fortunate enough to have a set of original HBs tripled in mids. I've only placed standard nuts a handful of times since I got them. Badass gear for Red Rock.
clinker

Trad climber
California
Nov 1, 2013 - 12:27am PT
mine...
MisterE

climber
Nov 1, 2013 - 12:31am PT
I have found the Metolius curved nuts to be difficult to remove after weighting - more so than the straight/angled tapers.

j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Nov 1, 2013 - 02:40am PT
I got some BDel offset micronuts to fill in some holes in my dmm offset brassies... After a couple of pitches I decided to just replace the dmm offsets I needed. The BDel offsets are fine but don't seem to fit as perfectly as DMMs do.
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Nov 1, 2013 - 09:49am PT
WC Ultralights, DMM Peanuts and Offsets all find a different placement... the Ultralights get into some pretty tight places.

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 1, 2013 - 10:46am PT
^^ +1

Hey Batrock it was nice meeting you up there this fall. Hope you got those pics. I'm glad you didn't push it with improper gear. I've seen a nasty fall on that pitch.

I've led those pitchs below Grey ledges at least three times, maybe 4. Never did em clean aid though. Aid wise that thin one is fairly straight forward A1. Clean.. dunno I'd guess C2+ or C3 (stupid aid ratings bitd oldschool definately a 3) cause theres a solid chance of a bad fall. Watched a guy take a 30+ foot zipper right below us one time. He fell all the way to the belay ledge. Really messed up both feet but they were able to self rescue. Earlier he had been giving me a bit of stinkeye for pulling out the hammer and was going on about how the pitch a was only C2. At the time I somewhat rudely made a probably audible comment of "so much for clean aid"

Now this was all over 14 years ago and going clean was a little less common but I'd really want to do it clean now. Yet I'm not even close to being an Ammon McNeely balls of steel aid climber. I tend to either pull out the pins if skeered or better yet on El-Cap I should just stay off routes if I can't do C2+ at least.

Not with the gear I had though. I'd want a good assortment the regular suspects in small cams. Why not have 4 sets (mebbe more) of them smallest 3 or 4 cams in various flavors. (alien offsets the BDs ..mebbe even the new tiny WCs.)

Then an assortment of all the offsets mentioned in the thread earlier.

This small stuff isn't a major weight issue for aiding.

Also camhooks, (love em) and a few different beaks for handplacing as well. hooks.

Having the right pro for a spot can sure make aid ratings drop a solid level or more. C3 can definately become C2 or better with just a couple solid placements.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 1, 2013 - 11:04am PT
I have found the Metolius curved nuts to be difficult to remove after weighting ...


Heck, just set them good and you'll have a hard time getting 'em out! I used them for about a week before I tossed them--I had too hard a time getting them out on the lead if I chose the wrong size and wanted to try a larger/smaller one!


But for the real offset nuts, just check out the climate warming thread.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 1, 2013 - 11:58am PT
My favorite nuts are Aliens and the purple Link Cam. (Hates nuts if there are other choices.)
ecoomer

Social climber
Denver
Sep 30, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
F*#king hell, was it 2 decades ago I said that???
Messages 1 - 24 of total 24 in this topic
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