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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 31, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Anyone used the new BD off sets much yet? Also thoughts on Astro Nuts or can they even be considered off set. Looking at beefing up my tiny off set arsenal and only have used Peenuts.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Oct 31, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
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Peenuts, and DMM Offset alloys are the best.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
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The DMM Offsets are the go-to nuts when I'm wall climbing.
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MisterE
climber
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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HB/DMM brassies!
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DesertRatExpeditions
Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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The only nuts I carry anymore are the HB(DMM) Offsets. I do occasionally find placements that a good ol' stopper would work better in, but it doesn't happen often enough for me to carry them.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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HB's all the way. Little expensive though.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
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Peanuts if free climbing. Brass nuts will rip every time on a lead fall!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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+Juan for DMM nuts!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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Right now I have a hodge podge of tiny wires collected over the past 35 years but very few off sets. My failure on El Cap drove home the need to build up my off set rack. I have been slowly collecting off set cams but still need to beef up there too. I think a double or triple set of HB Off Sets and a narrow cam hooks would have been the ticket for our last climb. I'm itching to get back on El Cap ASAP.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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I'm not a fan of BD nuts and certainly not the Metolius Astro nuts.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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Good to know about the Astro nuts, seem like they could be ok for free climbing but wouldn't perform as good as HB's for aid.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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DMM, duh!!!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Oct 31, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
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I used a few of the Astro nuts on the Shield and didn't like them. I back-cleaned before I used them again. The DMM #4 brass offset was the ticket on the 2 pitches above Mammoth on the Shield.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 31, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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I LOVE me DMM offset nuts!!!!!! the little brass and the big aluminum, I dont even bring my BD nuts to yosemite!
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Oct 31, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
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DMM Offest = awesome. Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut = awesome too, just not quite as much. The Metolius set comes in a much larger range, and I usually carry both the DMM and Metolius sets when free climbing.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Oct 31, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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I'm fortunate enough to have a set of original HBs tripled in mids. I've only placed standard nuts a handful of times since I got them. Badass gear for Red Rock.
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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mine...
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MisterE
climber
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I have found the Metolius curved nuts to be difficult to remove after weighting - more so than the straight/angled tapers.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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I got some BDel offset micronuts to fill in some holes in my dmm offset brassies... After a couple of pitches I decided to just replace the dmm offsets I needed. The BDel offsets are fine but don't seem to fit as perfectly as DMMs do.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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WC Ultralights, DMM Peanuts and Offsets all find a different placement... the Ultralights get into some pretty tight places.
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