Official BALCH FEST Invite: Nov 16-17th

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micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
I spoke to him just before he left and gave him camping beta. I'm hoping to hear from him soon. I'm going up Saturday to check/cut some trail......I'm mainly curious about the poidon oak on the approach. I'd like to have it nicely sussed out for the crew the following weekend.

Also. I was thinking adam (macronut) and I will get a big ol campsite dialed in for camping at Kirch Flat, a ways prior to Balch Camp. We'll do a big ol bonfire BBQ saturday night. People can plan to camp there for Saturday evening. We'll put the FEST in Balchfest.

Christina. Roger that on the shirt size. You too SLR.
Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut
Still working on tshirt art. Whatchya think?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 3, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Kirch Flat should be empty so you will have the whole place to yourselves,

maybe call to make sure the gate is open,

and somebody bring a welder to weld that noisy cattle guard down,

tons more camping upstream along the Kings,

be sure to gas up in Fresno,

back roads are a nicer way to get there,

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 3, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Had a phone message from him, expect an update soon, sharpen your trail building equipment. There is also a good site a little above the trail head no Latrine, though....

And keep your eye on the prize! Leversee sent me another one of these

Credit: Jaybro
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 3, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
pattergonia? :-)
Trad is Rad

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
Nov 3, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
coming up with Aaron, see you guys there. Also how much are the t shirts going to be?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Nov 3, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
I am 100% probably going. I'll email you soon.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2013 - 08:33am PT
Ok ladies and gents,


Alexey went up there and totally thrashed around and bushwhacked all day trying to get to the flake...unsuccessfully...which adds a bit of spice to the equation. I'm going in Saturday to suss out a feasible trail. I had knee surgery a week ago (Doc says nothing athletic for six weeks, but what does he know), and unless I'm having major swelling I hope to dial in the trail location and cut away major junk if possible. I'm also going to be printing out some topos for other stuff in the area. There's another area to the east along the main wall that has stuff in the 5.8-5.11 range on some cool formations. And I just found out that there's a 5.9 on the right side of the flake to gain access for me to rig a toprope/jug line for photography.


THE PLAN is to set up a big group campsite at KIRCH FLAT, a nice spot by the river, but at least a half hour or so from the trailhead, and do our Saturday evening BBQ there. Adam and I will bring the BBQ, the meat, and a bunch of side dishes prepped by our lovely wives once we have a firm number. T-shirts will cost yall 10.00, I'm sporting the cost on the remainder as a labour of love.


Call or text me with any questions, and I'll for sure keep you in the loop after my recon on Saturday. Anybody have a pair of crutches I can borrow?


Yours,


Scott
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 4, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Complete fiasco for attempt to get second ascent of JCA's Wide World of Sports last weekend.
Went on Thursday night with my friend Chris. Chris is ultimate weapon for this climb , since she can squeeze at 7 inches, where #6 just tipped out. But we had no chance to try.
We stayed in Kirch Flat campground which is really good.
Friday morning we drove 12.1 ml from Kirch Flat camp and easily found trailhead to Flake with old cairns. Our packs was heavy. A triple #5, #6, #9 and one #12 plus two ropes
The beginning of the trail was ok, we reached big power line, than we transition up to smaller power line and follow the trail toward the flake.
I think the trail which was restored in 2010 has green ribbons. And power line trale has red ribbons. So at some point we did see trail forks from small power line up to the rock band toward the Flake - and started following it. We lost trail pretty soon and started terrible bushwhacking which never ended. We still were moving in direction of the Flake and sometimes was able to see it.
We started hiking at 10 am and 3.5 hours later we were relatively close to the Flake, but realize that we have no chance to climb and return before dark. We turned back and it took us 3.5 hours on the way down, TOTAL 7 hours of worst hiking in my life.
Our hazmat suites was trashed, we did not see poison oak in the first half of approach, but closer to the Flake it was many.
We left Balch Camp same day having no chance to find easy approach next day, and no desire to bushwhack more. We had recover at Arch rock next day.
It is very possible that we left power line too early because all f*#kup started after this. But it still hard to believe that you can make it in 45 min with heavy backpack.
I hope the climbers who participate in 2010 trail work will come to find and restore the trail before Bulch Fest.
Locals who may know approach may help too.

Start of the trail. 12.1 miles from Kirch Flat campground
Start of the trail. 12.1 miles from Kirch Flat campground
Credit: Alexey

Our way to the Flake. Speed is 1 kilometer in 3.5 hour, impressive!
Our way to the Flake. Speed is 1 kilometer in 3.5 hour, impressive!
Credit: Alexey

Chris before the hike. She is happy and does not know yet that there a...
Chris before the hike. She is happy and does not know yet that there are things worst that flared chimneys.
Credit: Alexey

Chris after the hike
Chris after the hike
Credit: Alexey

fack bushwhacking
fack bushwhacking
Credit: Alexey

The Flake with the Climb. I hope I'll reach it someday..
The Flake with the Climb. I hope I'll reach it someday..
Credit: Alexey

Added for Jaybro: did not meet snakes or Mountain Lions, but was thinking to cary Bear spray for them, but left in the car
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 4, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
You will! Sooner than you may think!paging Will, Linda, Munge, Sarah and whomever else I'm forgetting.. You all got in there in 2010, many without medical mishap!

Can you remember any key beta to make going in there any easier? I'm a remember-it-when-I-see-it-kinda guy not good at remote route beta all the way from Moab. I'll be up directly after Billyfest, though!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 4, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Alexey, you didn't mention it, but did you see any sign of mountain Lions?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 4, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Your plan sounds great, Scott. Adele and I are going to hear Tim Flannery and the Lunatic Fringe this Saturday night, but I may be available for sherpa/bushwhacking duty up until early afternoon. Keep me informed about that, or anywhere else where I can help.

Thanks.

John
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
For sure John. Adam and I are working out some details now. Paul Martzen also said he's interested in helping out. I'm kinda thinking about trying to head in from "pin high" with the flake.....at this hairpin up near the right. It looks more forested and less dense from a groundcover standpoint. Then we could drop down and along the wall. We'll see Alexey, you're an animal, and I'm sorry it was a big hassle. We'll do our best to get it all sussed out.

If we can't, this whole thing is off. But I'm confident we'll get an approach dialed in for The Fest. Stay tuned.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Credit: micronut
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 4, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
what about parking at the penstock and hiking up the PG&E service road?

might mean a rap in but easier hike,
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 4, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
Thrash to, on and back from the climb....sounds fun! Should see a lot of traffic now that the secret is out.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 4, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Nah you don't want to go that way. We came out that way once and it took all night!

If need be I'll get the original trail in if no one else figures it out first. Trust me, there is a reason we went that way!

Anne Yeagle ( who has posted here) and David cotter have gone the easy way too.when we did passionate life, side of Wyde, A flicker in time, etc. One day Anne and I started up after noon ( the day after passionate life, so we got a slow start, but left gear at the base and just hiked in with water) did the hike, put up side of wide, hung out took photos and hiked out all before dark. Though that was in the late nineties. Maybe we'll hear from them

Another way I've done (as has Paul) is to go in from above. Once Upon a time it was an hour hike followed by a six hundred foot rappel.

Linda Jarit and I and __ come on, you know who you are, speak up! (He took photos at zanderland once works for Nikon in the South Bay and whose name slips my mind. Sorry, man.) hiked in that way and it took as long as alexey's epic just to get to the top of the rappells- talk about overgrown!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2013 - 08:51am PT
Paul Martzen and I are going up Saturday. I'm calling in shirt orders today. If you haven't given me your intentions to come, let me know here. I'll be doing an email head count this week, and another the week of.

Scott
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:01am PT
I'll volunteer for Saturday if you want more help. I'm immune to PO but can't give a whole day, so let me know what time and what tools.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:37am PT

Thrash to, on and back from the climb....sounds fun! Should see a lot of traffic now that the secret is out.

Haha Jim! I made that joke in '95, then a year or so later when the poster came out! And again in 2010! Still, it is one of the coolest lines....

I predict a traffic jam on the approach... Any day now!
Bascuela

climber
Fresno, CA
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Scott - sent you an email.
Aaron
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