Official BALCH FEST Invite: Nov 16-17th

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
I think next time I might ask my grandma to prepare the pilaf as well. She has legit competition. On the way back to the bay we stopped by in some place which Scott recommended. When I saw pilaf as a possible side option, I did not think twice. Thank you Mr. Elezerian!


This event was sort of a last minute choice for me and I did not prepare much info for the trip. But I was reading a bit more about the OWs and noticed they were first bolted by someone and JCA's Wide World of Sports had a FFA by Jaybro and his partner in 95. Does Jay or anyone else know if every single OW there (both sides of the flake) had a hang/fall-less free ascent on lead?

Would be nice to know more history about the other OWs aside from JCA's Wide World of Sports.


PS: I am getting stoked to do more wide.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Ya Vitaliy, I free-soloed all of them

look, it's you!

Selfie!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Those other routes all have names, I assume they've all been done, but don't really know. I bet the info is in that online guide to Patterson bluffs here on the Taco!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Vitaliy,
JCA's Wide World of Sports had a FFA by Jaybro and his partner in 95. Does Jay or anyone else know if every single OW there (both sides of the flake) had a hang/fall-less free ascent on lead?
The online guide has some "place names" and possible FA info for some of those routes, but I didn't research past what Jaybro recalled.
Richard Leversee might have some answers.
At present I have:

31. A Side of Wide 5.10d, bolt protected chimney start, left of Balch Camp Flake
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

32. TPL var. start 5.12a, thin hand crack, front side of Dracula
FA(aid): Paul Martzen
FFA: Jaybro?
33. The Passionate Life 5.11c, 2p, ow and squeeze, camalots 4x4 2x4.5 2x5, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, 2/1997
34. JCA's Wide World of Sport 5.12b, 2p, ow and squeeze, 16x + gear, topo
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Brad Jarrett, 3/1995
35. Balch Camp Flake - Original Route, right edge of the flake, bolt ladder to horn lasso, then more bolts, AAJ
FA: George Sessions, Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, Mark Powell, 1954
36. Flicker of Time Arete 5.9 A0, starts on Original Route bolt ladder,
then free climbs arete above, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

Balch Camp Flake - inside face

37. backside of JCA WWS 5.11a?
FA: Richard Leversee
38. backside of The Passionate Life 5.11c
FA: Richard Leversee
39. Dracula Crack 5.9, backside of TPL 5.12a var. start, hand and fist crack
FA: Dwight Kroll, Ryan?, 1981

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide

And note that Jaybro's partner (Brad Jarrett) on the FA of JCA's Wide World of Sports did not follow entirely free.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Not completely free, but for the record, that was Brad Jarret.


Also, 'A side of Wide,' can be seen on the page before this one in micro nuts photo of "either, vitally, macro, or limping crab on Dracula crack."
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
The pitch per day count was low but this trip was not so much about logging pitches as exploring a cool area, climbing wide and meeting new people. I am psyched to return and would even consider doing so again before the fest next year. Would be cool to come back and put up a new line too. I love the shirt color and design, it will fill the lime void in my climbing wardrobe!

Poison oak update: not spreading very much, left bicep a bit and still feel like my left eyelid has some, a few spots on my ankle. I'm overall very pleased with current outbreak level based on my exposure. I'm normally very sensitive and I currently have no weeping blisters, just a few dots that hardly itch. I'm glad I went in and got pills right away, I'll never know whether I need them for sure but I'm glad I don't have to find out.

I climbed the OW inside of passionate life up to the dracula belay and it was really fun. I was climbing the inside while jim? was soloing and we exchanged a few simulgrunts through the crack.. Would be psyched to go back and lead the whole thing. upper half was bolted and seemed like mainly chimneying.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
The full TR will be ready in approximately 44 minutes!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Wa- Fing-hoo!!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
All this sounds really exciting, but I have questions (though not enough time
to pose them right now).
Maybe the TR will clear everything up for me!
Way to go, all!!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Hey where were you yesterday? Last I heard you were coming out for Sunday?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Ok. The real TR is up and running. You guys have put some golden stuff in this thread....especially the first hand accounts. Would you PLEASE cut and paste this stuff into replies on the TR, so its all in one place. That would be unbelieveably cool and wirthwhile for the posterity of Balch Fest. Thanks so much.

Scott
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Scott,
Just put links to the other threads.
"There will always be multiple threads."

Also, there are some limitations to the "Trip Report" type threads.
The main one that I don't like is that if you click on a person's ID,
you can see a list of their posts on regular Forum threads, but their posts as comments on TRs are not included in that list (or any list).
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Sep 12, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
Looks like a plus from the Rough Fire is that it might clear the brush and poison oak to make the approach a little easier.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 12, 2015 - 01:42pm PT
Balchfest '15, anyone?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 12, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
depending on when, I'd try to make it...
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 12, 2015 - 11:28pm PT
So did the fire rip through?

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 13, 2015 - 12:29am PT
Nope, fire stayed on the other side of the NF Kings river so there's still lots of bushes protecting the cliff. Well, not that much since there's a nice trail now!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2015 - 05:02am PT
When was the last time anyone trod those trails?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 6, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
Itchy bump
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 7, 2016 - 03:42pm PT
Jaybro, last time I was there with Michal at march 2014 - 5 mounts after you and me climb the Thing. I remember posting on this tread update 2 years ago, but I can not find it.
Trail was good, climb was hard (actually very hard dura-dura) and I understood that without significant increase in endurance and power I would be hanging at the same point as before any time I re-visiting this really amazing place. So 2015 passes- and nothing changed. Maybe this November?
Всматриваюсь вперёд чтобы увидеть тебя снова!
Messages 141 - 160 of total 160 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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