Official BALCH FEST Invite: Nov 16-17th

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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 18, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
^^^ Nice. And congrats to Jaybro.

DMT
okie

Trad climber
Nov 18, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Thanks to Micronut for putting his energy into organizing this. It was a really special happening that wouldn't have been a reality without his vision.
What went down on the flake speaks for itself. I was just glad to finally make it to this awesome piece of natural architecture even though time didn't permit a top rope thrashing.
I was inspired by the old and new generation coming together and the obvious talent that was assembled. A veteran star still led the way, even blazing a trail through the jungle for the next generation.
I don't know what Eleazarian put in that pilaf, but if the feds figure out the recipe it'll be made illegal cause it was seriously the new crack.
When young Jim (name correct?)told me at the fire that he had been up and down soloing on A Passionate Life because the gear would've gotten in the way and a harness would have just chafed him this information blew my mind. Sounds like this apparently fearless and visionary dude topped out the next day from the inside looking out...???
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 18, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Third person on top was Luke. He mini traxed the route. Jim did some cool bouldering at the base of the other side and explored the wall further. I saw him scrambling to the top of some other flake further down when I walked to the far left side of our flake.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
What Okie said on that Pilaf! Wish I had some now!

And Vitaly's gram's Napoleon!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
I think next time I might ask my grandma to prepare the pilaf as well. She has legit competition. On the way back to the bay we stopped by in some place which Scott recommended. When I saw pilaf as a possible side option, I did not think twice. Thank you Mr. Elezerian!


This event was sort of a last minute choice for me and I did not prepare much info for the trip. But I was reading a bit more about the OWs and noticed they were first bolted by someone and JCA's Wide World of Sports had a FFA by Jaybro and his partner in 95. Does Jay or anyone else know if every single OW there (both sides of the flake) had a hang/fall-less free ascent on lead?

Would be nice to know more history about the other OWs aside from JCA's Wide World of Sports.


PS: I am getting stoked to do more wide.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Ya Vitaliy, I free-soloed all of them

look, it's you!
Vitaliy and Christina at the top of the first pitch.  Say Cheese!
Vitaliy and Christina at the top of the first pitch. Say Cheese!
Credit: limpingcrab

Selfie!
stud
stud
Credit: limpingcrab
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Those other routes all have names, I assume they've all been done, but don't really know. I bet the info is in that online guide to Patterson bluffs here on the Taco!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Vitaliy,
JCA's Wide World of Sports had a FFA by Jaybro and his partner in 95. Does Jay or anyone else know if every single OW there (both sides of the flake) had a hang/fall-less free ascent on lead?
The online guide has some "place names" and possible FA info for some of those routes, but I didn't research past what Jaybro recalled.
Richard Leversee might have some answers.
At present I have:

31. A Side of Wide 5.10d, bolt protected chimney start, left of Balch Camp Flake
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

32. TPL var. start 5.12a, thin hand crack, front side of Dracula
FA(aid): Paul Martzen
FFA: Jaybro?
33. The Passionate Life 5.11c, 2p, ow and squeeze, camalots 4x4 2x4.5 2x5, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: Jay Anderson, Ann Yeagle, 2/1997
34. JCA's Wide World of Sport 5.12b, 2p, ow and squeeze, 16x + gear, topo
FP(bolted by): Richard Leversee
FA: Jay Anderson, Brad Jarrett, 3/1995
35. Balch Camp Flake - Original Route, right edge of the flake, bolt ladder to horn lasso, then more bolts, AAJ
FA: George Sessions, Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, Mark Powell, 1954
36. Flicker of Time Arete 5.9 A0, starts on Original Route bolt ladder,
then free climbs arete above, AAJ 1998, p.190
FA: David Cotter, Richard Leversee, 2/1997

Balch Camp Flake - inside face

37. backside of JCA WWS 5.11a?
FA: Richard Leversee
38. backside of The Passionate Life 5.11c
FA: Richard Leversee
39. Dracula Crack 5.9, backside of TPL 5.12a var. start, hand and fist crack
FA: Dwight Kroll, Ryan?, 1981

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide

And note that Jaybro's partner (Brad Jarrett) on the FA of JCA's Wide World of Sports did not follow entirely free.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Not completely free, but for the record, that was Brad Jarret.


Also, 'A side of Wide,' can be seen on the page before this one in micro nuts photo of "either, vitally, macro, or limping crab on Dracula crack."
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
The pitch per day count was low but this trip was not so much about logging pitches as exploring a cool area, climbing wide and meeting new people. I am psyched to return and would even consider doing so again before the fest next year. Would be cool to come back and put up a new line too. I love the shirt color and design, it will fill the lime void in my climbing wardrobe!

Poison oak update: not spreading very much, left bicep a bit and still feel like my left eyelid has some, a few spots on my ankle. I'm overall very pleased with current outbreak level based on my exposure. I'm normally very sensitive and I currently have no weeping blisters, just a few dots that hardly itch. I'm glad I went in and got pills right away, I'll never know whether I need them for sure but I'm glad I don't have to find out.

I climbed the OW inside of passionate life up to the dracula belay and it was really fun. I was climbing the inside while jim? was soloing and we exchanged a few simulgrunts through the crack.. Would be psyched to go back and lead the whole thing. upper half was bolted and seemed like mainly chimneying.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
The full TR will be ready in approximately 44 minutes!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
Wa- Fing-hoo!!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
All this sounds really exciting, but I have questions (though not enough time
to pose them right now).
Maybe the TR will clear everything up for me!
Way to go, all!!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Hey where were you yesterday? Last I heard you were coming out for Sunday?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Ok. The real TR is up and running. You guys have put some golden stuff in this thread....especially the first hand accounts. Would you PLEASE cut and paste this stuff into replies on the TR, so its all in one place. That would be unbelieveably cool and wirthwhile for the posterity of Balch Fest. Thanks so much.

Scott
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
Scott,
Just put links to the other threads.
"There will always be multiple threads."

Also, there are some limitations to the "Trip Report" type threads.
The main one that I don't like is that if you click on a person's ID,
you can see a list of their posts on regular Forum threads, but their posts as comments on TRs are not included in that list (or any list).
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