Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
|
Hello!
I was recently contacted by Tresa Black about Auburn info, where it was clear Auburn will be featured in her revised Bay Area guide despite all of the information / topos being available for free via Mountainproject.com. I have asked if she will voluntarily donate a portion of profits to CRAGS as a commitment to help CRAGS maintain access, which is required to provide volunteers, trash service, and ports potty service (to the tune of a lot of $$$ per year forever) in order to ensure access. We'll see what happens, and I WILL BE sure to communicate the outcome on Falcons / her decision to help support access to NorCal crags.
Now on to my request: I would love to at least know what the real names to the 7 routes that existed at Auburn pre-1999:
 Scale Wall Unknown 5.9
Scale Wall Unknown 5.10b
Scale Wall Unknown 5.10C
Horseshoe Canyon 5.11d
Horseshoe Canyon 5.10a
Memorial Wall Unknown 5.9 (currently known as Quirky)
Memorial Wall Unknown 5.11d (currently known as On Demand)
Before anyone gets excited about Quirky or On Demand, here is my email about it:
Hey XXXXXX,
I will say I both agree and disagree. It was not lightly I started calling On Demand and Quirky as such. I have made every attempt possible to find out there legit names as "Climbers Beware" can attest too (it took almost 10 years to get the real name) and I have always been as straight forward as possible that those are working names, not the names given by the FA.
Renaming someone elses FA comes very much in conflict in my "respect the time, effort, and $$$ investment of the FAist" mentality. Let me post on SuperTopo and try one more time. To be honest, I would rather see "Unnamed #1" then for any FAist to think I disrespect or don't understand their effort.
I'll be honest, I am not overly thrilled with Teresa "scooping Auburn" as a means to sell more guidebooks. Of her "new routes" in her guidebook much will be mine. That represents literally thousands of $$ of my own personal money that was earned by working a high stress job and spending much of my free time to both install and protect these climbs and then give that info away freely via topos and/or MP.
If she doesn't commit to donating to CRAGS at least some portion of her proceeds, I will personally make it a goal to bring this bs travesty to light via both social media and print. I do not take the effort of 20 years lightly, and honestly I am 100% behind CRAGS being the difference between access or not.
IMO it is either Unnamed or the actual Name or it will just have to wait until something sticks through years of reference much like On Demand or Quirky.
Aaron
Sent from my iPhone
So if you can help (Dale? Hatchet Bros?) please let's set the record straight and assign the names YOU chose for your FAs: take credit PLEASE as you deserve for your vision and work to get the Auburn ball rolling!
Thanks!
Aaron
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2013 - 01:15am PT
|
Cool deal trying to track down names.
I wouldn't worry too much about guide books and money. What's the hourly rate work out to for a guide book author? $1.00? But Falcon must make some money and I agree it would be cool if they could kick down some amount to help the cause.
Sure anyone with any Internet savvy should be able to track down the info for Auburn, but many won't, or won't even be aware of Auburn until they see it in a book. So the book will allow more people to enjoy climbs you (and others) put up; it seems like that is one of the real rewards of doing FAs, i.e. helping create something that makes other people happy.
|
|
Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2013 - 01:25am PT
|
Totally agree Fet! And if I am not mistaken, something you and I have pined over while actually at Auburn!
I can honestly say some of the best days of climbing for me have come nestled between the scruffy little walls of Auburn. Whether chasing the sun, chasing the shade, or hell even an FA, I have truly appreciated what Auburn could and has become.
I hope that it can remain the way it is now, but history shows us that this will most likely not be the case. I hope my efforts to have Falcon/Tresa help the cause does not come across as belittling, selfish, or egotistical as honestly that is not my intent. I want to ensure that CRAGS has the resources to protect Auburn as a legitimate climbing resources for years to come so that other can enjoy the same feelings I express above.
|
|
Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
|
Up for the day crowd.
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
|
Aaron, I'm sure you are already on it but just in case the access history and sensitivity needs to be included in any guide. And a shout out to CRAGS and appeal for donations. That would probably generate more dollars than anything directly from Falcon.
My brother knows Tresa pretty well, I have only climbed with her a couple times, but know that she probably wants to do what is right.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!