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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Oct 29, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
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my friend rusty does v6ish fairly well indoor and outdoor and hes been 60 something since i met him like 20 years ago :)
and yes everything master bruce said! ~ lowballs, traverses, pads, more pads, spotters, down-climbing etc..
some of the easiest as well as the hardest problems in the world are only a few feet off the ground. that's one reason i like steep stuff (besides just being rad:) is that it is usually really difficult but not very dangerous.
just be very picky of the problems you try and maybe dont do highballs.
in future editions of my supertopo bouldering guidebooks maybe i will try to note if a problem is lowball or highball more often and more clearly.
i say - go bouldering!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 29, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
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I do think that the security of pads encourages boulders raised indoors in the gyms to jump off problems from the top, way too high up if you were in an outdoor bouldering environment. Always a good idea to be able to reverse your upward moves and down climb closer to the ground on a boulder problem or the safety of protection on a real lead. Of course, there are moments when you have to go for it, but those are based on a calculated risk and knowledge of your abilities. Seems like padded landing in a gym encourage novices to just go for broke and pop off without due consideration about the nature of the landing.
Then, there are gym trained climbers being rescued off long 5.4 peak bagging expeditions in the Sierra, but that's a whole different rant! Yes, kids when you go into the high mountains, things can get real serious real fast.
But there we are going off topic again. But I guess this holds true for geriatric climbers and boulderers alike.
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deschamps
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Oct 29, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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The new bouldering gyms that are popping up are way safer than the old gyms. The old gyms have pads that you move around and try to place under a climber, which often results in twisted/broken ankles on the edges of pads. Those pads aren't very thick either.
Three new bouldering gyms in Arizona now have an even layer of about 20" of padding across the entire bouldering area. Moveable pads are not allowed for good reason. You can crater from 15' high, and as long as you fall right, have nothing to worry about. These new gyms are a big step forward.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Oct 29, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
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Well, I'm young compared with some on here, getting close to 58, but still trying hard. Locally that means mainly bouldering, (even the easier trad hereabouts gets nasty quite quick!)
I spend a lot of time finding and developing new stuff, which is getting increasingly harder. I try my best to stay in shape, but it is definitley getting harder to stay in the same place!
Steve
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 29, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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All the observant noticed my friend is their own jaw dropping.
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Oct 30, 2013 - 12:12am PT
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In the gym try "Oldering". The rating works like this, You climb a v3 using two additional holds and it is an oldering v1. Use 9 additional holds on a v3 and it is a -v5 and so on.
Outdoors use a rope and footbridges.
In town, don't forget to hang your handicap placard from the mirror.
In bed, close your eyes, float back in time, and hope for the best.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 09:00am PT
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Great responses, nice to hear of compatriots still in the game. I actually used to boulder a bit, before pads and unfortunately had a bad landing and broke my heel, plus it was mid week and I ended up crawling out dragging my pack, and I was recounting this to Kamps he said he broke both heels at the same time, anyone know the story?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Oct 30, 2013 - 09:11am PT
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time is the fountain of youth
and the faucet, it is leaking.
the clock now dripping: moments.
obviously time's substance does
not assume liquid form,
though when it leaves it's vessel
a phase change ensues,
each moment puddles within us
and is then converted into action,
which is mostly exothermic
as our bio-rhythms pulse.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 30, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
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Yes, back in the pre-pad era I fell off a boulder problem 25 feet up and shattered my calcaneus, broke my nose and fractured the occipital lobe of my skull. Then, I got to go into survival training mode and crawl out a quarter mile to my car through the mud in the rain and drive myself to ER. "Hey, guys! I think I'm hurt!" It was certainly ones of those "nights to remember". If I'd had a pad, it wouldn't have been nearly so bad I'm sure. Better than being found dead there in the morning by a some passerby. Think of the indignity and you wouldn't even be around to be embarrassed.
Moral? Don't fall off boulder problems from 25 feet up without a pad and spotters. Not really a good idea at any age.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 30, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
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I got some years on you, Dingus, and I think I might just go wrestle some boulders after work today..... Two pads packed in the green dragon, though......
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
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DMT I like your style.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oct 30, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Just turned 55 and staying a little closer to the ground and more in control.
Besides, more control is the one thing us old farts still have going for us, which is nice ;-)
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 30, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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I decided several years ago that bouldering was counterproductive for older climbers. Too much chance of an injury and longer recovery times didn't seem very appealing.
My downclimbing accident in 2010 brought it home that I wasn't young anymore. It's been 3+ years and I'm just now fully recovered from a total of 16 fractures, concussion, internal bleeding induced anemia, pneumothorax, etc., etc. My approach at age 74 is avoid falls from any height; rappel when an anchor is handy.
I admit that the bouldering pads seem to add an aura of safety, however illusory it may be. I'd stick to low-ball and easier routes. JMHO.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Oct 31, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
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I decided several years ago that bouldering was counterproductive for older climbers (BDC)
I agree, Rodger. I quit serious bouldering at age 50 after an arm injury, but played on the boulders up to age 70. After 70 one needs to have his (her) head examined if they continue the sport without a top-rope. Yes, I know, there are those mythological Frenchmen who spring about like elves on and off the rock until their 90s, but normal human beings are more vulnerable. Here I am playing at the Happies in 2002 at age 65:
Photo by Jody.
I now enjoy simple bodyweight exercises that involve no jumping and can be done with my shoulder arthritis.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 31, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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^^^^^^^^
At least he did not say he quit bouldering and took up graffiti!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Oct 31, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Re: calcaenus fractures! Most men don't think much about osteoporosis, but taking some supplementary Calcium is essential to avoid this sort of injury.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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For those of you who want to climb forever, here's Lou Lutz at age 89 (photo taken some years ago)
Edit: Apparently I haven't got this right. It would seem he lived to the age of 85 and was Fritz Wiessner's partner at times, doing some climbing in the Gunks in 1957. I read he lived in a nursing home at the age of 71, with Parkinson's, but hiked and did a little top-roping. So if anyone who reads this knows more details I would like to hear them.
;>)
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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May 27, 2014 - 11:59am PT
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I just landed a short fall on my new crash pad and hurt my knee. I think that the pad didn't help and might have made it worse. It feels better after a nights rest. Maybe a bruised meniscus, if that's a thing. At 45 with Clydesdale joints, I maybe need to embrace some realities. I'd rather pad up 5.0 than stay home. Sheesh.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 27, 2014 - 03:14pm PT
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By the way, pads were never acceptable to me. Took many long falls with little noticeable long-term affect. Bah, genetics. Everyone's different.
I've taken some spectacular bouldering falls in my younger days with no injuries except to my ego. I still don't use pads outdoors, but that has more to do with innate cheapness than philosophy.
I did, however, rupture my Achilles tendon in an eight-foot well-padded fall in the gym a little over two years ago, at age 60. All our bodies may differ, but they still age.
I'm a little curious about your comments regarding pushing yourself as a reason to quit. I know lots of climbers my age and older who still push themselves. We just realize that the push isn't going to result in our getting better than we were 40 or 50 years ago. Some of us find attempting to age gracefully enough of a challenge to keep motivated.
John
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 27, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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I never bouldered much... not traditional bouldering, anyhow. It never really interested me compared to "real" climbing. It was like liking to do pull-ups or something as far as I was concerned. More'n likely, it's because I wasn't very good at it. Let's see, my point is, it hasn't affected me much as an old dude because I never did it much in the first place.
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