Bouldering and older climbers

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Messages 1 - 163 of total 163 in this topic

jopay

climber

so.il

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2013 - 09:07am PT

I was curious how many older climbers still boulder, there seems to be some anecdotal evidence that we shouldn't past a certain age, I suppose the whole brittle bones thing but the crash pads being used today seem to work, provided of course you hit them. I'm 67 been at it thirty years and was never a boulderer, but we have an area that's just so appealing that I'm sorely tempted to buy a pad, it just looks like fun. So I would like the opinion of the older climbers.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Oct 28, 2013 - 09:32am PT

Everyone's body is different, and everyone pushes themselves in different ways and to different degrees, so there really can't be universal rules.

I did some bouldering, easier and easier and lower and lower, until I was 68, two years ago. I landed off-balance on a pad after a low jump which I thought was controlled, destroyed an ACL and tore a meniscus. I actually think the pad caused the injury, because my ankle rolled on the foam displacing my knee inward on impact.

The recovery process from surgery has been steady but slow. You don't heal as fast or as well when you are older, and I'm not willing to go through that again if I can help it, so I'm retired from bouldering at this point.

It's fair to say that the injury could have happened to someone at any age, and indeed I know at least two climbers who are much younger than me who have torn an ACL in a very similar way. But what is different is the healing process when you are older, and it is the specter of going through a long recovery again that now keeps me off the pebbles.

Alan Rubin

climber

Amherst,MA.

Oct 28, 2013 - 10:21am PT

Go to Fontainbleau most climbable days days, especially weekends, and you are likely to run into a good number of folks in their 70s and beyond climbing elegantly up problems (usually sans pads) that most of us can't even get off the ground on.Both humbling and inspiring.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:25am PT

I still crush.......

Sort of.

I still climb Hi-Ball problems at Stoney, but I don't think its really Bouldering... none of the stuff even gets to the "V" scale, more like 5.9 ish stuff.

I treat it like free soloing.... NO FALLs at all.

But a NEW place has been found and for the first time in years I am looking forward to going on trips with just the pad.

elcap-pics

Big Wall climber

Crestline CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:38am PT

Certainly the most "dangerous" of rock climbing activities. I have seen a ton of friends get very nasty injuries from bouldering... and they are the young ones. Most older folks have wised up and figured out that the rewards don't justify the risks.

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:46am PT

No sure how you are defining "older"..I'm 47 and when I go to the bouldering gym I am by far the oldest guy there.

With all my climbing - bouldering has been the only time that I have been injured; fractured heel, dislocated ankle, fractured heel/broken foot, permanently damaged finger.

Injuries do take a lot longer to heal now so I "play it safe" by only climbing stuff with flat landings, not too crimpy and rarely ever top out as the falls most times would be too much for me to absorb the impact (knees).

RtM

climber

DHS

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:52am PT

Well I'm only in my mid-forties so can't really give personal account, but I have been bouldering for 25 years and don't feel any worse for the wear.

Bouldering doesn't necessarily mean that you have to push it to the limit, nor is falling a requirement. There are many many easy boulder problems, and downclimbing is always an option.

That said, I used to run into and boulder with the late Bob Kamps all the time. He bouldered well into his seventies, and I don't recall him ever sporting a crashpad.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Oct 28, 2013 - 01:14pm PT

I used to run into and boulder with the late Bob Kamps all the time. He bouldered well into his seventies, and I don't recall him ever sporting a crashpad.

Bob... was the inventor of the "RUG", the prototype Crash Pad.

FRUMY

Trad climber

Bishop,CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 01:25pm PT

I think some of you are mistaking soloing for bouldering.

marty(r)

climber

beneath the valley of ultravegans

Oct 28, 2013 - 01:29pm PT

Age doesn't slow down the French...

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Oct 28, 2013 - 01:34pm PT

Elderhood has not made me give up bouldering...

...but that's only because I never bouldered in the first place.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Oct 28, 2013 - 01:59pm PT

Ruthlessly wire everything so that you don't ever fall. No problem.

I don't think I would stop when I'm older, but pushing hard problems where I know I may repeatedly fall is what to watch out for.

Crash pad is a worthy investment for various reasons, not least of which is absorbing shock from landing.

Downclimbing skills used to be mandatory for climbers.

Curt

climber

Gold Canyon, AZ

Oct 28, 2013 - 02:11pm PT

I'm in my mid-late 50's and still boulder, but like others I have dialed the difficulty down quite a bit. I used to work on V9/10 problems and warm up on V5/6. Now, I work on V5/6 problems and warm up on much easier stuff. I have no reason to believe this trend won't continue--and eventually, I'll be bouldering 10s again, but they'll be 5.10s instead of V10s.

Curt

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Oct 28, 2013 - 02:13pm PT

I'm 45. I started climbing again a year ago after a 10 year layoff.

Before I quit I was huge into bouldering.

These days however, I have a hip that is pretty arthritic and will probably need replacing at some point. I am trying to get as much milage out of it as I can.

I split my time about equally between the gym and outdoors. In the gym, I only boulder. I can't be bothered to tie in there, plus I like bouldering to build finger power. The many extremely cushy pads in the gym allow me to mostly go for it without worry.

However, outside I don't boulder at all, because landing wrong (or even right, but on only one pad) could badly exacerbate my hip problem.

I'd only consider bouldering outdoors if I was with a group of people where we had a nice pile of pads, a lot of spotters, and a fairly predictable landing.

jgill

Boulder climber

Colorado

Oct 28, 2013 - 03:18pm PT

I'd only consider bouldering outdoors if I was with a group of people where we had a nice pile of pads, a lot of spotters, and a fairly predictable landing

Or use the old-fashioned, unpopular approach and don a top-rope.

Curt

climber

Gold Canyon, AZ

Oct 28, 2013 - 03:46pm PT

^^^^ Yes. It's amazing how much easier it is to carry 50 feet of rope and a couple of carabiners compared to several large bouldering pads.

Curt

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 03:48pm PT

I'm only 62, but I still boulder outdoors, but like everyone else, I've had to dial it down a lot. Although I still don't own a crash pad, I really don't think that's the real reason for my increased caution.

Jgill has been my bouldering hero and inspiration ever since I read his article in Summit about 45 years ago, and when he said that he had to stop bouldering, it gave me pause.

I got even more pause when I ruptured my Achilles tendon on a fall of about 8 feet in the gym, with pads, a couple of years ago. While I healed very quickly (according to the physical therapists, much more quickly than patients half my age), that accident caused me to give up on highball problems without a top rope.

Bouldering was my first love, and the main reason I got into climbing in the first place, but love cannot substitute for judgment.

john

FRUMY

Trad climber

Bishop,CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 04:22pm PT

Traverses - Kamps bouldered hard till the day he died. He was a master of hard traverses & low mantles. Which allowed him to stay powerful on climbs.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 04:49pm PT

I think my bones are still pretty tough but I learned the hard way about the beginnings of sport climbs. I'm 61 and managed to break my ankle badly on a route in the Alabama Hills last week called UNKOWN (rated 10b). Any of you KNOW of it? It's a very intriguing looking climb to me but I approached it badly, sloppily, impulsively, and it bit me badly, being above that big slab and all. I totally spaced out on getting the second clip like I was bouldering or something. It was truly 'somekind' of senior moment. I even had a plan to make sure I got the second clip before doing anything else but totally forgot about it. Unkown maybe, but it won't be forgotten!!!!!

Anyway, I still boulder and certainly builder, or did,.......... :>)

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Oct 28, 2013 - 05:08pm PT

Sorry to hear about your accident...heal fast!!

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 05:14pm PT

Thanks! I'm just going to rename the route DETOUR for awhile!

bjj

climber

beyond the sun

Oct 28, 2013 - 05:29pm PT

I'd only consider bouldering outdoors if I was with a group of people where we had a nice pile of pads, a lot of spotters, and a fairly predictable landing

Or use the old-fashioned, unpopular approach and don a top-rope.

I absolutely would if I was bouldering somewhere that this was a convenient option.

I was a top rope champion 15+ years ago. If I was working out a sport climb on top rope and happened to send it clean from the ground up, I would almost always say "Good enough!" and never bother to actually red/pink/whatever point it.

Yay! John Gill knows I'm alive! :)

Seriously though... Big fan from way back then (yes, all the way back to 1994).

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:12pm PT

Before I ruined my ankle I went back to Rubidoux where we used to boulder in high school and I looked at all that stuff we did with no rope and wondered how I didn't ruin my ankle long ago. I used to have so much fun bouldering it was insane. It's sobering to see the old fire start to dim.

JL

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:14pm PT

You just don't want your wit to dim! So you think your ankle is ruined? Or do you just mean temporarily messed up? I'm hoping my foot will point forward again!

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:26pm PT

Dan.... WTF???

How do you F up SportClimbing??????????????

that is not good.

how bad is the ankle????

bad as Johns????

Anyway, I am amazed at the falls the youth are willing to take now days, at Stoney last thursday, at least 6 kids did Turlok Overhang. All took falls before the secret was worked out - at the top out - I hurt just watching and swilling brews.

McHale's Navy

Trad climber

From Panorama City, CA

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:37pm PT

Not has bad as John's I don't think. John broke his off didn't he? It's a TRI-Something or other. Spiral of the Fib and broke a corner of the Tib above the Tal and dislocated the ankle. I thought sport climbs were safe! I just forgot I had to clip in....a senior moment. I remember thinking I could just levitate and then I realized I was in another reality entirely and it all came crashing down. At least I put lockers on the first clip and anchored the belayer.

I like building traverses to stay in shape. Here's one I found in Yreka on the way south this year. It goes around 3 sides of the bldg.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:50pm PT

Yes. Always and forever.

Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber

City of Salt

Oct 28, 2013 - 06:59pm PT

For me it's not the landings that I have to be careful of, it's the dynamic movement that is so common in bouldering. It's super hard on your shoulders doing big "drive by's" and other sorts of lunging.

I have a rule that I don't try any one problem more than three times in a day to avoid injury caused by too much repetition. I down-climb, or walk off when I can and save the landings for when I actually fall trying.

That said - I find sport climbing to be more fun than bouldering anyway so I do a lot more of that. I miss the power that I had when I bouldered a lot though and do sometimes think it would be fun to be good at it again.

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber

I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!

Oct 28, 2013 - 07:29pm PT

i like low angle slabs that go 500 ft, easy, but if you fall, you still die,

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Oct 28, 2013 - 07:36pm PT

I'm 57 and just getting back to it. Kamps was brilliant and practical. Traverses and short problems; maybe very easy high balls just for the movement. This is safe and seems very effective training.

Interestingly, it was the best training for me when I was young and could actually climb, too!

And, what's wrong with a toprope? May not be "cool," but it is smart! I'll take smart.

jgill

Boulder climber

Colorado

Oct 28, 2013 - 09:58pm PT

In the early 1960s Bob Kamps and I would boulder together occasionally. We may have gotten the idea of long traverses from Herb & Jan Conn, who would do them for practice in the needles when not on longer climbs. I think the Conns had been doing those exercises since moving to the Black Hills around 1950 or so.

harryhotdog

Social climber

north vancouver, B.C.

Oct 28, 2013 - 10:43pm PT

it's the dynamic movement that is so common in bouldering. It's super hard on your shoulders doing big "drive by's" and other sorts of lunging.

Right on the money with this comment Mike as I agree totally. I go to a bouldering gym that has fantastic route setting. Very few tweak holds but many big moves. I've had problems in the bag and then bail on the last move even though I could have probably pulled it off with inferior technique. At my age (52) if I think I can't execute the dead point perfectly I don't do it. I also find recovery times longer than with the regular climbing. Yes I know, gyms suck compared to real rock climbing but they insure an enjoyable, injury free experience when I do have a chance to go outdoor climbing. Necessary evil I suppose.

Todd Eastman

climber

Bellingham, WA

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT

Much of the bouldering done when us geezers were young was for endurance and so lots of long traverses on buildings and rock served the purpose. Higher problems were often worked with significant down climbing before an actual top out. Bailing off boulder problems with bad landings was simply not an option that could be depended on. To this day, finding bouldering challenges that demand good movement, refined footwork, and endurance seem to trump long throwfests with bad landings.

I still love bouldering after cutting my teeth in the early-70s at Carderock and the buildings and bridges near Hopkins University in Baltimore as the young chump I remain!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Oct 28, 2013 - 11:23pm PT

Went bouldering today. Found a local boulder where I can progress without damage if I'm careful. Crimps, tendon pullers, the works, but if I am smart about this.... Prolly go back after work tomorrow...

peterbeal

Boulder climber

Colorado

Oct 29, 2013 - 01:36pm PT

As the author of a book on bouldering and someone who is still (at 49) getting out there a lot, I want to recommend a few things. First, one pad outside never is enough. Two is a minimum, preferably three. Second, learn how to fall and land properly. Third, plan ahead very carefully regarding landings and spotting if there is any chance of falling. Fourth, warmups are crucial to avoiding injury. Fifth, embrace the new styles of bouldering. Look at what younger climbers are doing and adopt more flexible positions and movement. Sixth, get new shoes. Have fun out there!

patrick compton

Trad climber

van

Oct 29, 2013 - 01:50pm PT

7th, if you don't smoke modern high grade: start!

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 29, 2013 - 01:52pm PT

8th, listen to your body. Aging happens to all of us.

John

jopay

climber

so.il

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2013 - 01:55pm PT

I appreciate all the responses, I'll probably get a pad and try to use "senior judgement" and be selective in what problems I chose to work. I knew from climbing with Kamps that he bouldered and it showed in his technique. If any are ever through SoIl. be sure and visit The Holy Boulders and you too will want to try bouldering. Sat. was the inaugural Holy Boulder Comp., all went well, good turn out and I really like the energy and enthusiasm the younger climbers have, its infectious.

FRUMY

Trad climber

Bishop,CA

Oct 29, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

IMO pads have added a lot of danger to bouldering. We used to see a broken heel or ankle once in a while at Stoney Point until pads started showing up. Now we see a lot of feet separated from the leg -- both bones straight out in the open and the foot off to the side.

It happens because climbing shoes stick to the pad & stop but the leg & body keep moving.

Hitting the side of the pad is the worst but I have seen it when hitting the pad in the center but at an angle.

If you need more than one pad you are not bouldering but soloing.

I'm 59 & been doing this for a while.

I bought my first pad a couple of months ago after moving to Bishop, because I have three screwed up dices in my lower back and can't afford a hard landing. Bishop is no place for old men. I get why people here use multiple pads & lots of spotting.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Oct 29, 2013 - 03:37pm PT

All the boulder problems I do at Castle Rock have a potential 2-foot ground fall onto soft duff. With a crash pad that translates into zero impact. There have to be 50 problems at Castle Rock and Indian that are like that, so I can sure get a workout there without breaking ankles and heels. Of course, there are a few 20-foot crashers at Castle and Indian, but I just don't do them.

I did about 20 boulder problems indoors yesterday at the gym, but I always reverse my moves and climb down far enough to be able to jump a couple of feet onto the pads underneath.

I do know a couple of "seniors" who've broken their heels on high balls and who now don't boulder and always break out the top rope for going hard and high.

Saw a guy last night with double broken heels and fractured ankles who had had one of his legs patched together with a skin graft off his stomach. That sounds like going too high too often twice. Faster learners. Slow learners.

If you'd really CS, you can choose to make bouldering safe as milk no matter what age and how fragile you are. It's all up to you. Of course, if you want to get strong fingers without risking it all going high, get yourself a finger board.

drunkenmaster

Social climber

santa rosa

Oct 29, 2013 - 03:55pm PT

my friend rusty does v6ish fairly well indoor and outdoor and hes been 60 something since i met him like 20 years ago :)

and yes everything master bruce said! ~ lowballs, traverses, pads, more pads, spotters, down-climbing etc..

some of the easiest as well as the hardest problems in the world are only a few feet off the ground. that's one reason i like steep stuff (besides just being rad:) is that it is usually really difficult but not very dangerous.

just be very picky of the problems you try and maybe dont do highballs.

in future editions of my supertopo bouldering guidebooks maybe i will try to note if a problem is lowball or highball more often and more clearly.

i say - go bouldering!!

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Oct 29, 2013 - 04:27pm PT

I do think that the security of pads encourages boulders raised indoors in the gyms to jump off problems from the top, way too high up if you were in an outdoor bouldering environment. Always a good idea to be able to reverse your upward moves and down climb closer to the ground on a boulder problem or the safety of protection on a real lead. Of course, there are moments when you have to go for it, but those are based on a calculated risk and knowledge of your abilities. Seems like padded landing in a gym encourage novices to just go for broke and pop off without due consideration about the nature of the landing.

Then, there are gym trained climbers being rescued off long 5.4 peak bagging expeditions in the Sierra, but that's a whole different rant! Yes, kids when you go into the high mountains, things can get real serious real fast.

But there we are going off topic again. But I guess this holds true for geriatric climbers and boulderers alike.

deschamps

Trad climber

Flagstaff, AZ

Oct 29, 2013 - 06:21pm PT

The new bouldering gyms that are popping up are way safer than the old gyms. The old gyms have pads that you move around and try to place under a climber, which often results in twisted/broken ankles on the edges of pads. Those pads aren't very thick either.

Three new bouldering gyms in Arizona now have an even layer of about 20" of padding across the entire bouldering area. Moveable pads are not allowed for good reason. You can crater from 15' high, and as long as you fall right, have nothing to worry about. These new gyms are a big step forward.

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

Oct 29, 2013 - 06:48pm PT

Well, I'm young compared with some on here, getting close to 58, but still trying hard. Locally that means mainly bouldering, (even the easier trad hereabouts gets nasty quite quick!)

I spend a lot of time finding and developing new stuff, which is getting increasingly harder. I try my best to stay in shape, but it is definitley getting harder to stay in the same place!

Steve

harryhotdog

Social climber

north vancouver, B.C.

Oct 29, 2013 - 09:05pm PT

All the observant noticed my friend is their own jaw dropping.

clinker

Trad climber

California

Oct 30, 2013 - 12:12am PT

In the gym try "Oldering". The rating works like this, You climb a v3 using two additional holds and it is an oldering v1. Use 9 additional holds on a v3 and it is a -v5 and so on.

Outdoors use a rope and footbridges.

In town, don't forget to hang your handicap placard from the mirror.

In bed, close your eyes, float back in time, and hope for the best.

jopay

climber

so.il

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 09:00am PT

Great responses, nice to hear of compatriots still in the game. I actually used to boulder a bit, before pads and unfortunately had a bad landing and broke my heel, plus it was mid week and I ended up crawling out dragging my pack, and I was recounting this to Kamps he said he broke both heels at the same time, anyone know the story?

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Oct 30, 2013 - 09:11am PT

time is the fountain of youth
and the faucet, it is leaking.
the clock now dripping: moments.

obviously time's substance does
not assume liquid form,
though when it leaves it's vessel
a phase change ensues,
each moment puddles within us
and is then converted into action,
which is mostly exothermic
as our bio-rhythms pulse.

Bruce Morris

Social climber

Belmont, California

Oct 30, 2013 - 03:21pm PT

Yes, back in the pre-pad era I fell off a boulder problem 25 feet up and shattered my calcaneus, broke my nose and fractured the occipital lobe of my skull. Then, I got to go into survival training mode and crawl out a quarter mile to my car through the mud in the rain and drive myself to ER. "Hey, guys! I think I'm hurt!" It was certainly ones of those "nights to remember". If I'd had a pad, it wouldn't have been nearly so bad I'm sure. Better than being found dead there in the morning by a some passerby. Think of the indignity and you wouldn't even be around to be embarrassed.

Moral? Don't fall off boulder problems from 25 feet up without a pad and spotters. Not really a good idea at any age.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Oct 30, 2013 - 03:38pm PT

I got some years on you, Dingus, and I think I might just go wrestle some boulders after work today..... Two pads packed in the green dragon, though......

jopay

climber

so.il

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 04:16pm PT

DMT I like your style.

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Oct 30, 2013 - 04:29pm PT

Just turned 55 and staying a little closer to the ground and more in control.

Besides, more control is the one thing us old farts still have going for us, which is nice ;-)

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Oct 30, 2013 - 06:08pm PT

I decided several years ago that bouldering was counterproductive for older climbers. Too much chance of an injury and longer recovery times didn't seem very appealing.

My downclimbing accident in 2010 brought it home that I wasn't young anymore. It's been 3+ years and I'm just now fully recovered from a total of 16 fractures, concussion, internal bleeding induced anemia, pneumothorax, etc., etc. My approach at age 74 is avoid falls from any height; rappel when an anchor is handy.

I admit that the bouldering pads seem to add an aura of safety, however illusory it may be. I'd stick to low-ball and easier routes. JMHO.

jgill

Boulder climber

Colorado

Oct 31, 2013 - 03:08pm PT

I decided several years ago that bouldering was counterproductive for older climbers (BDC)

I agree, Rodger. I quit serious bouldering at age 50 after an arm injury, but played on the boulders up to age 70. After 70 one needs to have his (her) head examined if they continue the sport without a top-rope. Yes, I know, there are those mythological Frenchmen who spring about like elves on and off the rock until their 90s, but normal human beings are more vulnerable. Here I am playing at the Happies in 2002 at age 65:

Photo by Jody.

I now enjoy simple bodyweight exercises that involve no jumping and can be done with my shoulder arthritis.

Brunosafari

Boulder climber

Oct 31, 2013 - 04:08pm PT

^^^^^^^^

At least he did not say he quit bouldering and took up graffiti!

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Oct 31, 2013 - 10:11pm PT

Re: calcaenus fractures! Most men don't think much about osteoporosis, but taking some supplementary Calcium is essential to avoid this sort of injury.

jgill

Boulder climber

Colorado

Nov 1, 2013 - 01:57pm PT

For those of you who want to climb forever, here's Lou Lutz at age 89 (photo taken some years ago)

Edit: Apparently I haven't got this right. It would seem he lived to the age of 85 and was Fritz Wiessner's partner at times, doing some climbing in the Gunks in 1957. I read he lived in a nursing home at the age of 71, with Parkinson's, but hiked and did a little top-roping. So if anyone who reads this knows more details I would like to hear them.

;>)

Flip Flop

Trad climber

Truckee, CA

May 27, 2014 - 11:59am PT

I just landed a short fall on my new crash pad and hurt my knee. I think that the pad didn't help and might have made it worse. It feels better after a nights rest. Maybe a bruised meniscus, if that's a thing. At 45 with Clydesdale joints, I maybe need to embrace some realities. I'd rather pad up 5.0 than stay home. Sheesh.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

May 27, 2014 - 03:14pm PT

By the way, pads were never acceptable to me. Took many long falls with little noticeable long-term affect. Bah, genetics. Everyone's different.

I've taken some spectacular bouldering falls in my younger days with no injuries except to my ego. I still don't use pads outdoors, but that has more to do with innate cheapness than philosophy.

I did, however, rupture my Achilles tendon in an eight-foot well-padded fall in the gym a little over two years ago, at age 60. All our bodies may differ, but they still age.

I'm a little curious about your comments regarding pushing yourself as a reason to quit. I know lots of climbers my age and older who still push themselves. We just realize that the push isn't going to result in our getting better than we were 40 or 50 years ago. Some of us find attempting to age gracefully enough of a challenge to keep motivated.

John

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

May 27, 2014 - 07:50pm PT

I never bouldered much... not traditional bouldering, anyhow. It never really interested me compared to "real" climbing. It was like liking to do pull-ups or something as far as I was concerned. More'n likely, it's because I wasn't very good at it. Let's see, my point is, it hasn't affected me much as an old dude because I never did it much in the first place.

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

May 27, 2014 - 08:21pm PT

At 56 I'm kind of a youngster here. I never bouldered very hard so I don't feel disappointment over decline and I can still find challenge (physical and mental), fun, training, struggle, flow, meditation, concentration, adventure, peace, conflict, solitude, sociality, communion with nature, outright war against nature, joy in movement, frustration in movement, beauty, ugliness, learning, fear, confidence, sharing, ego, pride, humility, meaning and release in climbing little rocks, without a rope, sometimes at the limits of my ability and sometimes well within my ability. I bouldered, on a regular basis, without pads, in Washington, Utah and Argentina, for more than 20 years. Now that I have two artificial hips, I take pads everywhere I go. Maybe someday I'll break a hold, or push a little too far without a rope and put an end to my climbing, permanently. Until then, or until my need passes, I hope I can keep rediscovering what I have found with this part of my lifestyle.

Gagner

climber

Boulder

May 27, 2014 - 08:50pm PT

I love bouldering, and at 54 continue to boulder a lot. I like to say that I go to the Spot gym in Boulder to bring up the average age, but in reality I doubt it makes a dent. I find that I will probably never have the same endurance as when I was younger, but having short term power to get through cruxes, and the bouldering head for run out routes, keeps me climbing at a high level. The biggest issue is listening to my body and not pushi g things too much so I have physical issues like finger/elbow/shoulder issues.....

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

May 28, 2014 - 10:01am PT

Eeyonkee,

I've seen those photos of you on the wide stuff! If I was able to do the what you do, I probably wouldn't feel the need to work hard at bouldering!

Steve

aMountainclimber

Mountain climber

San Clemente, CA

Nov 13, 2017 - 12:32pm PT

Wow, this was short conversation. Is there anybody out there? ANYBODY? I started indoor bouldering 14 month ago at the age of 63. It was a simple transaction really, I was completely sick of working out (weight lifting) at the gym so I decided to exchange boredom for terror. Really, bouldering is pretty much like lifting weights and far more motivating in terms of showing up. The first few months was pretty harsh since I was, without exaggeration, the worst climber in the gym. THE WORST. Man I sucked. But, then a remarkable thing happened. I started getting better and I am still improving, climbing harder and harder problems while getting stronger, to the point where I am now solidly in the bottom 20%. Being really old converts the achievement of mediocracy into something special. I like that. I must admit, part of my improvement is the result of "cheating'. It turns out that losing weight can overcome both ageing and an absence of talent, especially if you start out fat. I'm sure trading weight for improvement will eventually become a zero sum game, but at 190 (down from my original 203), I still have plenty cards to play! I imagine how much better I'll be at 165. Hell, I did weight 165 once, how hard can it be to get there? Certainly not as hard as hauling my fat ass up that wall. AND then, I'd be remiss without mentioning the whole sitcom experience of being 40 years older than EVERYBODY.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Nov 13, 2017 - 01:19pm PT

I'm 66 and my bouldering partner just turned 70. We both boulder all the time. We boulder in the gym to warm up before climbing (up to v5 or v6) and we boulder outside a lot. The trick is to not fall from very far up. I have a lousy back and about 3 feet is my limit without a big gym pad under me. So that means that I traverse, a lot. And I do short, hard up problems. There is no better way to keep that finger strength up.

Gorgeous George

Trad climber

Los Angeles, California

Nov 13, 2017 - 02:26pm PT

I'm laughing to myself to have found this thread. I'm 62 and a big guy, 225, and whenever I find myself laying off for awhile I ease myself back into it by bouldering. No highballs, just low traverses. If you are observant you can find them everywhere.

Just last week I spent a couple of hours at Echo Rock in JT, just below all the slab climbs to the left of Sphincter Quits. I wasn't able to go all the way on the bottom to Double Dip, but you can break it up into small problems. I find it helps more with my footwork than finger strength. The key is no falls, just a little fall off balance can screw you up.

Anytime I want to get off the ground, I just find easy 7's and 8's, top rope or lead, doesn't matter.

Thing about bouldering, don't have to find a partner, and can go when it fits MY schedule.

Lurking Fear

Boulder climber

Bishop, California

Nov 13, 2017 - 03:44pm PT

I'm 55 and I still boulder at the Buttermilks a couple of times a week. I climbed my hardest boulder problem ever at 47. I may have run out of doable projects in this area; I guess the low hanging fruit is gone. I haven't really felt my power or crimp strength dwindle at the Buttermilks, maybe more so at the Happys or Sads.. Biggest problem is gaining a few pounds which doesn't help.

Guck

Trad climber

Santa Barbara, CA

Nov 13, 2017 - 09:24pm PT

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:34am PT

I am 60 and I still Boulder, I find that bouldering helps my climbing as well as my lead climbing. I love how bouldering helps me work out hard moves and sequences. On days I can not find partner to climb with, bouldering still allows me to climb and practice climbing. I learned how to climb at Castle Rock State Park Ca by bouldering there, so I have been bouldering at the very start of my climbing career. Even after all these years, I still get super psyched on bouldering and working out new moves and problems!!! Even tho I am 60 now, bouldering at times makes me feel 19 years old lol. Ps at my age I think it's time I get a crash pad!Lol, happy climbing Mike A.

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:36am PT

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:37am PT

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:39am PT

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:39am PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:41am PT

mike a.

Sport climber

Nov 14, 2017 - 10:43am PT

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Nov 14, 2017 - 11:19am PT

I want to be like mike a.

On another note, I was surfing @ Scripps Pier this past weekend during the combo swell. Early Sunday morning I was surfing with 'Doug' @ age 70 still rides a real shortboard and shreds. I'm 15 years his junior and he was teasing me a bit about the wide tail in my board which makes it easier to catch waves. Hey, I need all the advantages I can find these days.

Don't get injured, don't get overweight and keep moving.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 14, 2017 - 11:34am PT

I stopped active bouldering when I became serious about alpine climbing in the early 70’s. I didn’t want to have to cancel a trip because of a broken ankle. Continued to do some solo climbing. The difference....you’re supposed to fall when bouldering and you can’t fall while soloing.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Nov 14, 2017 - 12:01pm PT

Question for GUCK.

Was at A-hills last weekend... I was introduced to Chris, ex-local Santa Barbara climber, now living in RR. Said he did a bunch of FA's in Panic Town, so maybe you know him....

A pretty amazing bunch of climbers somehow assembled at one of the spots in the Cattle Pocket... some college kids- just starting out, Chris and his crew ... 30 somethings, me and Kris Solem.. mid 60's old dogs, some middle aged folks from Lone Pine and Eric Beck and lady friend, from Bishop... both 75??? ish..we were all crushing the sportclimbs. (heck those college kids could't do all the climbs we were doing)

Our conversion got around to who is now the oldest active climber- sense Fred has passed.

Chris said that there is this really really really old guy climber living in Santa Barbara but he could not recall his name....

Question for GUCK..... Marcel Remy... is he that old guy living in SB?

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 14, 2017 - 12:03pm PT

you’re supposed to fall when bouldering and you can’t fall while soloing.

Word.

The only broken bones I've incurred doing various types of climbing were while bouldering. A few were nasty. I'm over it.

An accomplished climber in my age group hit the nail on the head. "I do my bouldering at the front end of the rope..."

Alan Rubin

climber

Amherst,MA.

Nov 14, 2017 - 12:22pm PT

Marcel Remy is Swiss. His sons Yves and Claude, now no youngsters themselves, are responsible for many classic new routes all over Europe--and places beyond.

Here, far from the mainstream of climbing, in western Mass., Ed Daniels, who will reach 93 in March, is still getting in his weekly sessions at our local Central Rock gym, as well as occasional visits to local crag, Chapel Ledge. His partner, our former Congressman John Olver is the 'youth' at 82.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Nov 14, 2017 - 12:27pm PT

Marcel Remy, 94, back on the summit

[Click to View YouTube Video]

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Nov 14, 2017 - 02:17pm PT

Alan, Marlow .... thanks for the info.

A whole bunch of us are just starting to age... body wise that is.

I refuse to grow up.

EDIT: Fab Video....just watched it. The man kicked ass... I hope to be able to do that.

90 is the new 60

Trad climber

Calgary

Nov 14, 2017 - 04:05pm PT

I wouldn't even think of bouldering but I am 60 with bad knees. Talking to the doc in a few weeks about a knee replacement.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 14, 2017 - 06:26pm PT

Safest way to move into old-age climbing: on a rope.

Over 70 it's senseless to jump off things. Mats or no mats.

But if you think you can beat the odds, go for it.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 15, 2017 - 06:35am PT

You’re absolutely right John. There is also diminished memory to consider but, fortunately, there is only one climbing command you need to remember......”up rope, I’m not moving!”

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Nov 15, 2017 - 06:50am PT

When easy is all you climb still a tight rope close to the ground, please,

If only i could grow up: I just can not resist, The urge to grasp the un-climb'd - the force is strong

ha!

Wade Icey

Trad climber

www.alohashirtrescue.com

Nov 15, 2017 - 07:33am PT

Beware the cumulative effects. They rarely affect you until they've accumulated.

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Nov 15, 2017 - 09:26am PT

I'm in my better years now, and find that bouldering is ABSOLUTELY key to staying strong and keeping up with the younger and prettier youth. It translates directly to maintaining or pushing my standards on the sharp end.

I look forward to weekends away with just the pad and pipe. The key is to include either a van full of pads, or a posse of friends with pads. Nothing is better than having a scary exit and seeing a sea of pads below with a few young bucks in catch mode!

Bouldering with a pad is definitely an evolution and not the same beast as relying on the Dollar Store welcome mat below. It is analogous to the difference between climbing with a rope and soloing. Its an apples to oranges comparison. Sure sometimes people get hurt hitting pads, but how many get hurt hitting the old shag?

I don't see any comparison between bouldering 40 years ago and today except in its benefits. They are simply different sports. Having a sea of pads is way safer.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Nov 15, 2017 - 11:14am PT

I would like the opinion of the older climbers.

I'm 68 years and 6 months.

Do not boulder if you worry about injury.

After 50 years of climbing my only real injuries happened while bouldering: a sprained ankle, a broken heel bone, and elbow tendonitis, on 3 different occasions. All outdoors, I would like to add.

Here is what I would like to know: has anyone done a bouldering traverse of the Trapps at the Gunks? Should be about 2 and a half miles total. I made it from Pink Cabbage to Maria.

still at it 14 years later

and still happily bouldering where a fall would mean major mayhem

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Nov 15, 2017 - 12:13pm PT

Yo Brunosafari,

You are about the strongest boulderer I have ever seen.
Post some pics of that secret area you train at (sans pad).
Just to lubricate us!

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Nov 15, 2017 - 01:10pm PT

Andy,

A bunch of us tried the Trapps traverse one time on a fall trip there in the early 80's. But I think we ran out of beer after a mile or so!

rbolton

Social climber

The home

Nov 15, 2017 - 01:43pm PT

This guy still boulders like a fiend and he's WAY old!

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 15, 2017 - 02:06pm PT

This guy still boulders like a fiend and he's WAY old!

Yeah but mutants don't count...

7SacredPools

Trad climber

Ontario, Canada

Nov 15, 2017 - 02:16pm PT

7SacredPools

Trad climber

Ontario, Canada

Nov 15, 2017 - 02:24pm PT

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 15, 2017 - 03:15pm PT

I don't see any comparison between bouldering 40 years ago and today except in its benefits. They are simply different sports. Having a sea of pads is way safer

In the same way that modern NFL is different from the old leatherhead leagues of the 1920s, perhaps. But the essence of bouldering hasn't changed much in my opinion. The focus on extreme difficulty on small rocks.

On this forum you won't find more than three or four participants who bouldered in the 1950s: Brokedown Climber, Lauria, and myself are the ones coming to mind. Are there others on ST? I don't know. Maybe Ken Weeks if he's still around.

If you are curious about a history of the sport over a longer time frame, go here:

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html

I rarely if ever jumped off from more than two or three feet, and I never used a pad or mat of any kind. This made anything a bit higher more like soloing, so I was more cautious than I might be today. But even so, with the mat pile, the long term effects on the spine could be more serious than sprained or broken ankles. Some of you in your 60s and still bouldering might consider having a spinal column MRI after you're into your 70s.

I question whether mats mitigate those long term injuries. Gymnasts use lots of mats but still damage the spine.

But I remember what it was like in the childhood of old age, the 60-70 period, and feeling pretty, pretty good and confident! So do your thing.

EDIT: (below) Nothing serious after the age of 50 (1987) and a bad arm injury from . . . bouldering. Very light stuff, no jumping, up to the age of 70. Seriously bad spine now.

Trad climber

Calgary

Nov 15, 2017 - 03:47pm PT

When did you stop bouldering JGill?

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Nov 15, 2017 - 03:50pm PT

Hey PinkTaco, I taught Brunosafari everything he knows; oh wait, it was the other way around. And, come to think of it, he didn't do a very good job...not with bouldering...not with me.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Nov 15, 2017 - 03:57pm PT

But even so, with the mat pile, the long term effects on the spine could be more serious than sprained or broken ankles

And, I've seen two nasty broken ankles which happened when the climber caught the edge of the pad with their foot. I also twisted an ankle landing on a pad on flat ground. I attribute it to landing 6" before my horizon told me I would. It was a short fall.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Nov 15, 2017 - 05:04pm PT

Many thanks, PinkTaco.

A mile is a long way to climb on rock.

And I should correct myself: I think it was Red Cabbage, not Pink, where I started.

zBrown

Ice climber

Nov 15, 2017 - 06:50pm PT

http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/indy-boulder_7492.jpg

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Nov 17, 2017 - 10:17am PT

Hi John,

First, I'd like to thank you for your continued contribution to our sport, the history (http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html); that you have compiled over the years is a real treasure! THANKS!

Your NFL analogy is a good one, it is still the same game with the newest padding.
While the helmet and added padding may help reduce the player's short-term acute injuries, the long-term more serious impact related injuries (head and neck) are merely being added to the cumulative aging deficit - to be paid for dearly at later time. As you mention, this same affect has been witnessed in gymnastics with the spinal issues.
Has this protective gear contributed to a false sense of security which ultimately increased athletic performance in these sports?

Just as I hang on a lot tighter when I am run out on the sharp end, I hang on measurably less when on the top rope. The pads below me when I am bouldering offer this direct sense of security (real or not), that allow me to push even harder than I otherwise would above the dirt. It is in this sense that I feel they are slightly different beasts. One perhaps more pure than the other... no pad vs. pad. Same game, but does the added padding increase performance? For me, absolutely!

Side note: I recently heard a poor old sod fell on to the and broke his femur bouldering at the gym.

Two questions for you:
(1) have you ever checked out any bouldering comps in the gym?
I was completely catatonic after seeing my first. Amazing athletes!
(2) Over the years does your tertiary sampling indicate to you that there are a higher percentage of mathematicians that climb, than say would be expected randomly? :)

jeff constine

Trad climber

Ao Namao

Nov 17, 2017 - 10:43am PT

[Click to View YouTube Video] Video I made a few years ago.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 17, 2017 - 10:46am PT

I still do sit start problems that end when my body is completely erect.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 17, 2017 - 04:14pm PT

Pink: Two questions for you:
(1) have you ever checked out any bouldering comps in the gym?
I was completely catatonic after seeing my first. Amazing athletes!
(2) Over the years does your tertiary sampling indicate to you that there are a higher percentage of mathematicians that climb, than say would be expected randomly? :)

(1) Yes, I've watched a regional comp. Impressive athletics.

(2) This is a tough one. There are no reliable stats describing how many (PhD) mathematicians live in the US. Anywhere from 2,900 to over 100,000 depending on the sources. So the percentage of math people to general population is speculative. Those I can think of offhand who are still around are Rearick, Freedman, Goldstone, Kelman, Bratten (the last four aging but active). There may be more here on ST, and if I didn't name you, sorry, I'm 80!

Research mathematicians are intellectual explorers and problem solvers, so you might suspect they could be attracted to climbing if they are a bit athletic. Also, many work in higher education, having lots of time off.

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Nov 20, 2017 - 12:20pm PT

Dick Shockley, of Shockley's Lunge at Santee boulders, comes to mind for mathematicians who boulder. He still hangs out there; calls it his office and some days he is a deriving maniac.

For myself, at 60 and recovering from a broken ankle, there is no bouldering anymore. Everything is a solo now; falling is a fail. All of my problems are easy and I consider therapy.

Crack Therapy

Laps on this short easy hand crack has increased the flexibility and pain free movement in my ankle. Finally ready for some longer stuff.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 20, 2017 - 03:31pm PT

Dick Shockley = physicist?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 20, 2017 - 03:41pm PT

My hat is off to older climbers who are pushing their bouldering limits.....make sure you hit the pads!

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Nov 20, 2017 - 04:19pm PT

Honorable mention from Gill, what could I possibly say to that? After a crappy weather weekend where I got some math done, tomorrow the weather improves and I can make my escape outside.

Cheers to old folks who climb boulders!

skcreidc

Social climber

SD, CA

Nov 20, 2017 - 04:54pm PT

Jgil, either a physicist or mathematician. Hard for me to get a straight answer out of him sometimes. Half the time he answers me with poetry literally pages long. But lately, he has been working on some problems in mathematics with pages and pages of equations working on a particular derivation.

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Nov 28, 2017 - 09:34am PT

Let's see off the top of my head there is:
Bob Palais,
Franz Helfenstein,
Eric Cytrynbaum,
Kevin Lawlor,
Chris Orum,
Ron McKay,
Barbara Grover,...
all still climbing and all mathematicians.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Nov 28, 2017 - 12:57pm PT

"Mathematician Ben Johnsen has taught for a number of years at Norwegian universities and has written textbooks, compendiums and articles about many mathematical topics, especially numerical theory and cryptography. Many articles and countless lectures show a continuing interest in popularization of the drug. He is also the author of other books with real-life cultural history. One example is the cultural history of fungus in "Mushrooms and mushrooms!" He has written about the summits of Jotunheimen, about Lyngsalpene and about the cultural history of cryptography in "Cryptography - The Secret Scripture" and more."

Ben Johnsen is still climbing, though I don't think he's bouldering. He has written some of the funniest climbing stories ever written in Norwegian or any language.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 28, 2017 - 01:38pm PT

"Poetry, physics, the same thing"
-Doctor Who ( Capaldi)
- over 2000 years old

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 28, 2017 - 01:47pm PT

Jaybro, 61, headed out any moment to the awesome local bouldering area known as 'The Fakes'. For a session the scope of which is so overwhelming, the locals would probably not even call it " bouldering"...

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Nov 28, 2017 - 01:58pm PT

It just dawned on me that we should call this "oldering."

chappy

Social climber

oakhurst

Nov 28, 2017 - 04:28pm PT

I still really like to older errr...boulder. I approach it much the way JGill did back in his day. No pads (just a towel to wipe the grit off the shoes), rarely jump off (2/3ft is definitely pushing the limit). I treat it very much like soling. I try to down climb everything. Always in search of a sweet traverse (close to the ground!). Obviously, this limits a lot of what bouldering is all about (max difficulty moves in a "safe" environment). Of course modern sport climbing has really changed things--allowing essentially bouldering on climbs. Much safer and easier on the body to take soft little 10/15/20 foot air balls onto a rope as opposed to the body pounding the knees ankles and back can take jumping off boulders. BITD one didn't have that option. I am keenly aware that often I am one screw up away from a serious injury. I keep telling myself I should get a pad or just start mini traxioning. There is just so much more I like about bouldering than pulling hard. I love the simplicity (part of why I have avoided getting a pad), I love touching beautiful, naturally sculpted rock holds, finding that minute foothold or weird sequence or balance point that makes a problem go. Problem solving. Mathematicians and bouldering--that adds up. Sometimes I laugh at my futility. I often refer to my bouldering as hiking and hanging. I still love the hell out of it.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Nov 28, 2017 - 04:55pm PT

Had a great 10 probes at the fakes. And a nap after.... And before!

Contractor

Boulder climber

Nov 28, 2017 - 05:18pm PT

If you're "Oldering" there's a subset of ethics to follow.

Don't crank up your audiobook too loud.

Don't leave tic marks or skin tags on the rock... that's lame and gross.

Please refrain from beta blasting and repeats of old embellished story telling.

If you're incontinent- use your own pad.

No creeping on the yoga pants

And please use undergarments- that saggy scrotum will have people thinking you're part flying squirrel.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 28, 2017 - 08:32pm PT

Well Pink and Marlowe, you got me. I should have mentioned Palais, but the others I'm unfamiliar with. Thanks.

Rich, how about Baldering? Although Oldering is pretty good!

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Nov 28, 2017 - 08:49pm PT

John, I think I prefer "oldering." Not only because of its sonic proximity to the real thing, but also because (hah!) it is bouldering with the "bold" removed.

gunsmoke

Mountain climber

Clackamas, Oregon

Nov 28, 2017 - 08:58pm PT

While most of this thread has involved outdoor bouldering, a few of the injury comments from indoor bouldering bother me. Is blowing the Achilles Tendon at an indoor gym a serious risk for "seasoned" climbers.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Nov 28, 2017 - 09:07pm PT

I think my ruptured ACL was a result of landing on a thick soft indoor pad, which allowed my ankle to roll inward and the knee to displace. Obviously, I can't (and certainly don't want to) redo the experiment, but I think I'd have been fine with a firmer surface to land on.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Nov 28, 2017 - 09:10pm PT

Giant air bags would work.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 29, 2017 - 08:06am PT

I think that the take home lesson is that any impact is potentially more serious as you age. Being less “bold” is just demonstrating that reasoning power retains more resilience than bone, tendons and ligaments.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Nov 29, 2017 - 09:21am PT

Yes, so true.

As I get older I feel like I am made of porcelain... one good impact and I will most likely shatter into a million pieces, and they will never put me back together again.

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Nov 29, 2017 - 02:57pm PT

Giant air bags would work.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Bob Palais

Trad climber

Nov 30, 2017 - 05:08am PT

A friend alerted me to this thread and the side discussion of mathematician climbers/boulderers. One conspicuously missing from the Utah list is Nat Smale (of `Nat's Traverse' at Mortar Rock/Indian Rock) who is still a regular at the Front. Speaking of Berkeley and buildering traverses also in this thread, I miss the `Golden Gate Wall', a great buildering traverse there, and several others on the campus.
There are some other `senior' math climbers. Roger and Sylvia Wiegand host an annual gathering of mathematical climbers at their place outside Estes Park. Roger is in his seventies, climbing since the early 50s and still climbing 5.12s. Bob Williams is 88 and active in mind and body. Bob and Karen live around the corner from Conrad Anker in Bozeman in the summers, and joined my family to view the eclipse from Rexburg. The late "No Way" Jose Pereyra was passionate about math and climbing. He took a break from the PhD program here to climb on bigger walls. Neil Sloane is only 78. He co-authored a climbing and bouldering guide and lots of great math (neilsloane dot com or google him). David and Janine Ruelle may still boulder at Fontainebleau? Stan Wagon climbs and rides bicycles with square wheels... (stanwagon dot com). I just found an old list some used to climb but no longer, some no longer with us - George Bell (son), John Imbrie at UVa, at Duke - Dick Hain and Robert Bryant (AMS President), Kevin Walker (works with Mike Freedman at Microsoft Research in Santa Barbara now), Jack Milnor, Bob Phelps climbed and bouldered well into his later years - and helped design UW's great bouldering wall in Seattle, Jean Taylor, Hassler Whitney climbed in his later years, and was a colleague of James Alexander III (of Alexander's Chimney and many more). Will Crowther - programmer - honorary mathematician? Teaching climbing to beginners as recently as 2013 (at 77) from Wikipedia. Sam Streibert who was a bouldering and climbing mentor of mine is an architect not a mathematician. I mention him because he did new routes in the Wind Rivers in the early 1960s, and he is still getting after it. This summer joined me and Shingo Ohkawa to do the Lowe Route on Lone Peak this summer. Off the couch from sea level to > 10,000' and 5000 elevation gain up and down in a day.
P.S. Regarding net-neutrality...`Pai is Wrong!' (maybe some of the math folks will get it...)

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Nov 30, 2017 - 11:04am PT

Jo Montchausse - The Duel: https://vimeo.com/65445570

Alan Rubin

climber

Amherst,MA.

Nov 30, 2017 - 11:09am PT

On the "climbing mathematician' thread drift, I'll add a newer name Zeb Engberg--PhD in Math from Dartmouth, currently teaching at a private school in Utah. Last summer put up a big free route on Xanadu in the Brooks Range,AK.

bit'er ol' guy

climber

the past

Nov 30, 2017 - 11:17am PT

I just leave a turd-in-a-bag.

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Dec 13, 2017 - 06:45am PT

... Sorry I take full responsibility for thread drift, it's an ageless trait!

Thanks Bob for the list, I'd like to add one more notable math person.
Alex Lowe!!!

jogill

climber

Colorado

Dec 13, 2017 - 03:36pm PT

Thanks Bob for the list, I'd like to add one more notable math person.
Alex Lowe!!!

I think that's a different Alex Lowe. The climber dropped out of Montana State after his sophomore year in chemical Engineering.

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Dec 13, 2017 - 08:01pm PT

http://montanakids.com/cool_stories/Famous_Montanans/lowe.htm
https://www.outsideonline.com/1831826/mutant-and-boy-scout-battle-20000-feet
http://www.nytimes.com/1999/10/07/world/alex-lowe-40-alpinist-dies-swept-away-on-a-tibet-ascent.html

jogill

climber

Colorado

Dec 13, 2017 - 09:13pm PT

You're correct. I didn't see the asterisk. There is another Alex Lowe who is in mathematics, but not a climber.

PinkTaco

Mountain climber

Utah

Dec 14, 2017 - 04:28pm PT

These guys need mats!
http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-42308791

SKA

Boulder climber

Colorado

Dec 26, 2017 - 10:03am PT

Competitive Bouldering is becoming more and more popular, particularly with older climbers. I started competing at age 45 three years ago and have competed in almost 20 competitions since. I actually prefer to climb outside, but having kids who are on climbing teams, I don't have that much extra time for the drive to the cliff. It is just much easier to train and climb indoors.

My last competition was at Stone Age in New Mexico and it was a blast!!! Yank N Yard results were broken in age divisions with 10 year increments. Needless to say the largest group was male 20-29. Generally, the masters category is either 40+ or 45+ depending on the venue, but we contacted the gym and asked if they could add an additional age group 50+. They changed it this year and it was super cool to see 50+ on the podium. There were eight 50+ male boulders and three female boulders. AND they all waited 3+ hours to stand on the podium too . . . Very Cool!

https://climbstoneage.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/YNYCitizenResults2017.pdf

At Yank n Yard, the masters numbers were not huge, but there were 26 boulderers 40-49 and 52 boulders over 30. I have seen the masters numbers grow at each competition and each year it is getting more and more competitive too.

I also started a Facebook group, Climbing Masters, so we can help each other train and stay healthy. Majority of our conversions are around training and preventive maintenance. There are a lot of really strong masters climbers out there . . .

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ClimbingMasters/

My goal is to see how far I can take my Bouldering and maybe when I am "really" old I will put my harness back on, I don't think Baffin Island will become over crowded anytime soon . . .

May We Always Be Crazy!!!

~SKA

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Dec 26, 2017 - 03:38pm PT

It's interesting to hear the perspective you approach this from SKA. I enjoy you fb group. They ( those comp guys) need to subdivide older groups more. I think every five years would be appropriate. There are so many strong climbers in theirs sixties and beyond. I'm just a pup, not especially strong, but reasonably active, at 61.5.

Come to Moab and bring your harness, there is much climbing life to be had in the wilds, away from rules and categories, and more than twenty feet off the ground... Let's start with Ancient Art and some first ascents!

SKA

Boulder climber

Colorado

Dec 26, 2017 - 04:07pm PT

Last time I went to Utah was for a bachelor party in Joe's Valley . . . I had a blast with a bunch of 20+ year old boulderers . . . I needed a week to recover though. And I was less beat up after running the Leadville 100.

I remember one guy saying . . . Man he hit hard and then jumped right back on. My ego was spoke louder than the pain, particularly when Bouldering with younger climbers . . . but after 3 days of bouldering hard . . . I was DONE!

I am not against throwing on a harness . . . it is just harder to do long days . . . I need to throw on a harness in Utah though . . . Soon!

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Mar 10, 2018 - 08:36am PT

Legendary Norwegian climber Ralph Høibakk in 2017 got his first dr. degree in applied mathematics at the age of 79 years. The name of his thesis: “Solutions to some problems related to Diophantine equations, power means and homogenization theory.”

https://uit.no/nyheter/artikkel?p_document_id=519527&p_dim=210108

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Mar 10, 2018 - 10:04am PT

Cool, Marlow.

jogill

climber

Colorado

Mar 10, 2018 - 10:54am PT

My goodness, Marlow, I've never heard of something like that in mathematics! Honorary doctorates, yes, but a regular degree at that age is phenomenal. Thanks.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Mar 10, 2018 - 11:01am PT

jogill

Høibakk says:

Mathematics deals, like life itself, with seeing patterns, contexts and symmetries. That way, we can orient ourselves in life and enjoy the beauty of an otherwise dim world. This doctorate shows that the solution to certain material technical and geometric problems can be beautifully expressed by whole numbers. To me, math is attractive. Suddenly a door opens for you and on the other side an experience of beauty awaits.

jogill

climber

Colorado

Mar 10, 2018 - 03:36pm PT

I see he received a degree in engineering physics at Trondheim in 1962. I was there for a math meeting in the summer of 1997. It was organized by an old colleague of mine, Lisa Lorentzen.

Lurking Fear

Boulder climber

Bishop, California

Mar 11, 2018 - 12:33am PT

As an older boulderer (yeah it's a word) of 55, I am irritated that we can't even get one thread that is dedicated to us. I mean do we really have to share our glory with mathematicians?

I believe we can boulder into our 70s if we use common sense by warming up well, and avoiding injury. Muscle wasting doesn't occur unless we become sedentary, so being a 70 year old boulderer is possible. I try to avoid falling out of control on or off my pad, and will simply not do certain moves if they seem to risk tendon or pulley injury.

I still climb with a rope but I'd always choose bouldering over cragging if I had to choose one. Plus as a non-mathematician I don't have to figure out how far I'm going to fall; it's always to the ground.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Mar 11, 2018 - 06:36am PT

Well this older climber will be officating/facilitating/? At the bouldering component of the Desert dash event in Moab today. https://www.facebook.com/groups/401763546572099/permalink/1595607240521051/?sale_post_id=1595607240521051

I'll be at the Fakes (Lions park) from 11:00-3

Only just heard about this when I was asked to help the other day, looks like it's likely to be an annual event

Photos to follow!

jogill

climber

Colorado

Mar 11, 2018 - 01:03pm PT

I believe we can boulder into our 70s . . .

Some will be able to. Try to avoid spinal injuries when jumping. Mats may help, but it gets iffy after age 60. I stopped jumping (no mats then, but very low jumps) at 50, but by that time damage to my lower spine had been done, gradually deteriorating since then.

Good luck.

Lurking Fear

Boulder climber

Bishop, California

Mar 11, 2018 - 11:37pm PT

Jogill, The other thing that might help me and many others boulder longer is that most of us are smaller in size. Although I may whine a little when I can't reach something, being a shorter and lighter is probably easier on the frame. I read what you're saying over and over elsewhere, and I have nothing but the highest respect for your mastery of bouldering, I'm just hoping I can be a special case. Its the only form of meditation I do.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Mar 12, 2018 - 09:22am PT

I'm 66 and my normal bouldering partner is 70. The trick for us is to minimize or eliminate the landings by mostly traversing. We are lucky that there are some great traverses here in SoCal with some of them long enough to get a thorough pump. I am especially cautious as my lower back is always iffy but I do climb some highballs, but I only do those that I know I will not fall off of. So either the difficulty needs to be at the bottom with an easy top out or it just needs to be not too difficult. Either way I really enjoy bouldering and see no reason to give it up if one is careful.

Brokedownclimber

Trad climber

Douglas, WY

Mar 12, 2018 - 10:58am PT

I bouldered on Flagstaff Mountain until I moved from Colorado to Wyoming in 1986. I haven't really gone back to it, and now at age 79 do not intend to do so. I sustained remarkably few injuries from jumping down, but had several joints in my hands dislocate from the stress. The big knuckle on my right hand is still sore from being "popped" back in 1985!

jogill

climber

Colorado

Mar 12, 2018 - 01:28pm PT

Low traverses are a good compromise. I continued after age 50 to do easy problems and many traverses, up till my early 70s. Then arthritis at various places ended that.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Mar 12, 2018 - 03:26pm PT

Yes, I wouldn't be surprised to hit the same limit. I already need to allow more time between sessions to let all the swelling settle back down after a hard day of climbing.

My friend Rich, who is already 70 seems mostly immune to those problems and except for needing to be careful with his shoulders can boulder almost every day. But then he was an Olympic level gymnast in college.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Mar 12, 2018 - 03:29pm PT

^^^

You left out the part about him being a mutant...

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Mar 12, 2018 - 04:55pm PT

What, just because his lats attach at the hips instead of the bottom of the rib cage, that makes him a mutant?

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Mar 12, 2018 - 07:46pm PT

Did I hear Gill say "low traverses"?

[Click to View YouTube Video]

I have to say, the two artificial hips have relieved some of my arthritis problems (although my fingers are looking a little boney!)

jogill

climber

Colorado

Mar 12, 2018 - 08:45pm PT

I like the part where you take a short nap.

;>)

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Mar 13, 2018 - 05:36am PT

Experience has taught me that the true low traverse makes for a smooth transition between bouldering and napping.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Mar 13, 2018 - 09:55am PT

Yanqui.

That sh#t was so hard, I didn't breath for 2:45 min watching it...

Except during the nap...

CHUCK A

Mountain climber

LEVITTOWN PA

Aug 19, 2018 - 11:03am PT

I remember back in 1975 climbing at High Rocks at Ralph Stover state park in Tinicum Township, Bucks County Pa. an elderly, diminutive man approached me at the practice wall where I was climbing with two high school friends. I had no idea who this man was but he was with two college students with video equipment and he was watching me climb intently. Finally he approached me, stuck out his hand and introduced himself as "Lou Lutz". The way he said his name to me it was almost as if I should have heard of him but really I never had. He said the college students were from Temple University and they were videotaping him climbing for a college course. He asked me if I would climb with him. At the time I was 6' tall and in good shape. I remember this man looked like he was in his 70's and couldn't have weighed 150 lbs. I thought to myself (mistakenly) whatever he could climb I could too. I said: "sure, I'll climb with you".
We proceeded down the cliffs to a much more difficult area and began to climb. He went first and I followed. Needless to say, he was an amazingly graceful, technical climber who clearly knew how to ascend difficult rocks and overhangs. I however, very ungraceful and through sheer brute strength was able to follow him but it took me twice as long and I was clearly exhausted.
But at least I can say, "I climbed with Lou Lutz". He was a very nice man and a very could climber.

jogill

climber

Colorado

Aug 19, 2018 - 04:09pm PT

^^^^^^^

mike a.

Sport climber

Aug 19, 2018 - 05:30pm PT

Sure love this super fun boulder problem at The Balls!!! I call it, Who Fired The Gardner V4. I am sure Robbins Rock Graft Group were all over this back in the early 70's!!!!

aspendougy

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Aug 19, 2018 - 07:43pm PT

It would be fun to have an outdoor climbing park, with a huge body of warm water, and all the boulders jutting out of the water like ocean rocks. You fall and you land in the water. No chalk. Some place in the tropics, a retirement home for climbers. You boulder until you die.