900 bolts for Warren Harding - meet you on the 13th

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 23 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ahwahnee Bartender

Big Wall climber
Fog Town
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
So I'm working at the Ahwahnee as a bartender at night and climbing by day. It was a pretty sweet setup. The year is 1976 or 77 and I'm checking out the camp 4 bulletin board and see this note stuck up with a thumb tack. I also see it is addressed to "Warren" and notes 900 bolts! (seemed like a lot but that was before the 1,000 bolts to the Horse Chute, er - that's a joke) Back then, I had heard nothing about anyone working the now famous, Porcelain Wall - but I figured it is for Warren Harding. The date for removal was passed so I know it will be taken down soon, so I grab it. Years later I dress up the edges to frame it in a shadow box. Any thoughts as to if it real or fake? Who was Joe that Warren was working with?

650 + 300 = 900
650 + 300 = 900
Credit: Ahwahnee Bartender
Howie Felderbush

Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 20, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
uh 650 + 300 does not equal 900 dummy

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 20, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
This summer I bought fifty bolts form a guy who had bought two thousand and placed half of them. Not sure if he ever met Harding.....
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 20, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
That would be Joe Faint.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 20, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
No, no. It'd be Joe Kinder. Any mention of chain saws?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 20, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Crunch lays down the BAM!
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Oct 20, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
Crunch
Not sure if your post is serious or not. [Who is Joe Kinder?] Regardless, the person who wrote that note is Joe Faint. Nice handwriting, Joe!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 20, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
Hamie, I'm pretty sure it's tongue in cheek. For more info about Kinder...

http://www.joekindkid.com/2013/10/my-actions-my-responsibility-and-my-mistake/#more-11013
MisterE

climber
Oct 20, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Great history, and well played crunch - LOL.
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Oct 20, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
1978 Porcelain Wall, Yosemite, CA, Warren Harding with Steve Bosque and Dave Lomba.

The Porcelain Wall was Harding's last Yosemite FA.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Oct 21, 2013 - 02:44am PT
The Porcelain Wall was Harding's last Yosemite FA.


Is it an FA, if you erase it as you go?

A UA (unique ascent)?
kenny morrell

Trad climber
danville,ca
Oct 21, 2013 - 05:59am PT
dave lomba
frank wyman

Mountain climber
montana
Oct 21, 2013 - 06:35am PT
Hey Theo...Can you post that cool picture of you and Dave in front of Half Dome?.. I would but have no capabilities on my work computer....Frank
The Chief

climber
From the Land of the Mongols
Oct 21, 2013 - 07:11am PT
I can't seem to remember how many 100's of 3/8" & 1/2" SS bolts that the ASCA has sent me over the years and I in turn have drilled and replaced in order to make climbs safer for you all.

Terrible.


Ahwahnee Bartender

Big Wall climber
Fog Town
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2013 - 10:07am PT
@frank wyman: post the picture you took in 76? Sure! Warren wasn't crawling up the wall right underneath this photo, but 2 years later I guess. For supertaco members, Frank was a awesome Ahwahnee waiter who also climbed by day but worked at night. Frank was a great buddy of mine and had TON OF GEAR (which I always respected).
650 + 300 always equals 900 - dummy
650 + 300 always equals 900 - dummy
Credit: Ahwahnee Bartender

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Oct 21, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Has JOEY seen that tree!???
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 21, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Chop it down!
frank wyman

Mountain climber
montana
Oct 21, 2013 - 10:29am PT
Theo...Your talking like I'm "DEAD".. I'm actually alive and still kickin. The wife and I are leaving for Playa del Carmen in a few days Return sometime Nov. Seen Dave awhile back in Driggs,He is looking old...Not young and handsome like us..
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 21, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
Here are some hopefully correct dates for Warren Harding's FAs for the Dawn Wall and later:

 Wall of Early Morning Light - Warren Harding, Dean Caldwell, 11/1970
 Rhombus Wall - Warren Harding, et al, 1975
 Porcelain Wall - Warren Harding, Dave Lomba, Steve Bosque, 1976
 Menehune Wall - Warren Harding, Steve Bosque, Bill Serniuk, Allison Clough, Margaret Young, Jorgen?, Mike Corbett, Mike Baum, 1976
 Forbidden Wall - Warren Harding, Dave Lomba, Christie Tewes, Steve Bosque, summer/1978

So if the note is from 1976, it's probably when Warren was in the Valley and doing the Porcelain Wall or Menehune Wall. Or maybe the Rhombus Wall.
And it's probably a joke.
nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Oct 21, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
frank Wyman, if you were referring to Dave Lomba^ above.....sadly, he passed in 2007...
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