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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Does anyone know any of the details of that Sea of Dreams team who bailed onto the NA? We were watching from the AO as whoever was leading took a few casual falls on the Hook or Book pitch. The next morning they bailed onto the NA and that one guy led the whole way to the top.
It seemed strange that one guy, in a team of three, was leading the whole route, and then when he failed on that pitch, no one else went up to give it a try, nor lead anything on the NA. Was he guiding?
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Guiding Sea of Dreams?
Doubt it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 12:49am PT
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It sure does seem unlikely but that one guy was leading the whole thing. Even when they switched over to the NA, with it's far easier pitches, he continued to lead everything.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:52am PT
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he continued to lead everything.
Lucky guy .....
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ryankelly
Trad climber
el portal
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:10am PT
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Is this a curiosity thing or calling someone out thing?
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:02am PT
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They were too low on the hook or book pitch
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Valerio
climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 04:23am PT
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my suggestion:
maybe he was not able to find the right position to start the pendulum... I remember I tried one hours to find it...
or maybe the pocket that you hook on the fly at the end of the pendulum is broken...
I remember that the pocket was small but sturdy ... I hope it is not broken otherwise might be impossible to climb the pitch
Cheers
Val
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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No, I'm not calling anyone out, I don't do that. I'm just curious.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
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Koreans disguised as Swiss?
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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Not unusual for one member to lead everything.... didn't Max drag you up the AO and Cheyne Sunkist... the list goes on!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Actually Simon did lead everything, while I was there shooting. He is fast and one of the best at this kind of climbing. I was wondering how Regan made out on Kaos... anyone know? Actually I was wondering about all the teams I last saw up there on the first of October. Pete made it after 22 days and I think Matt did his solo of the Muir.... and the Austrians did SSPO... Andrew Barnes should be off Zodiac by now too...
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10b4me
Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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I was wondering how Regan made out on Kaos... anyone know?
I was wondering how Clark did. I think he was on Lurking Fear.
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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Matt bailed, his water bottles blew and he went down before he died of thirst.
Regan topped out last Saturday. He had no idea the park was shut down and it took awhile for me to explain the situation. He said that Kaos was good though, and hard in spots.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Oct 16, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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From the photo that Tom posted of the Swiss team on the continental shelf, It looks like they were too low to start the Hook Or Book pitch. In tom's photo, you can see the team 40 or 50' below the white dikes. In photos I have from Tom when I led this pitch, I was up in the white dikes. I'll post up a photo soon.
Here's a link to the trip report I did after Sea Of Dreams
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=208845&tn=0&mr=0
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Da-Veed
Big Wall climber
Bend Oregon
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Clark and his buddy Dave topped out at the same time I did on lurking fear. We stayed on Thanksgiving ledge together an had a feast. Cool guys. There was no one behind them and I think we all returned to the floor on oct. 4th. Clark if you read this, it was very cool talking Yosemite history with you! As I was humping loads down Mark and Max topped out on A.O. Wall, as well as several nose teams.
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Valerio
climber
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Oct 16, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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hi Levy,
in the Tom's picture the three climber are at the ninth belay. You're right... HOB begins at the white dike 50 feet above them.
I think that a climber that has the skill to arrive to that point of the route can not miss the HOB's start because there is a logical micro ledge to hook to the first rivet.
Maybe they have had other kind of problems...
I remember we made the belay 10 with two angles and maybe a small friend where the withe dike start.
Val
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
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Aaahhhhh....
So that explains the light I saw high on Zed-Em when I finally got down. Nice send, Regan - KAOS is a great route, eh?
I'll never forget the time Neal and I climbed Mescalito back in the fall of 96, and for days we watched these three Spanish-speaking dudes fixing and hauling up to 4 on NA Wall. Gallons and gallons of water and haul bags and gear. Most annoying, was this non-stop shout they would do:
"COO!!!" from the wall.
"COO!!!" from the meadows.
Back and forth, back and forth, all day, all night, the COO-ing never stopped! It is like the Spanish-speaking climbers' El Cap Monkey Call, and if you have climbed much on the Big Stone you know exactly what I mean. You also know they call their pig a "puta".
At any rate, after days of hauling and COO-ing, the leader attempts to climb the fifth pitch of NA Wall, which becomes a bit wide at one point, and so he backed off. He returned to the ledge, and I simply assumed that the next guy would go up to give it a shot.
Nope.
They all bailed! And the leader had only given it about a five- or ten-minute try!
As they rappelled to the ground, that same damn shout echoed in from the meadows: "COO!!!"
And from the wall, came in return, the most pathetic, dejected, and barely audible reply:
"Coo."
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
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Pete, 'coo' rhymes with Pelut, n'est-ce pas?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
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I think the title of Tom's photo "contemplating the Hook or Book pitch" is a little misleading. My photo of Simon attempting the pitch was taken at 5:03PM, hours after Tom usually leaves for the day.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Oct 16, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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Right you are Mark... contemplation can happen any time! After my many bails on EC I always contemplated the many reasons I bailed... often the trumped up reasons seemed to be rational at the time... but later...oh later!... the house of cards quickly collapsed!
Nice shot by the way! Looks like Simon was in the correct location on the route..... He is a great guy and a great climber and felt, I'm sure, that it was not in the best interest of the team to continue on the route.
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NBB
Social climber
Boulder
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Oct 16, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Maybe he ran out of rope. It looks like he's combining pitches. Maybe his aid climbing gloves were too thick to find the copious and ample drilled hook placements. This pitch is A2+ at best on a bashed out, drilled, mank-head infested and basically destroyed now-A3+ route.
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