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Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:48am PT
LOL ....
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:56am PT
In the mountains there are only two ratings, either you can do it or you can't.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:57am PT
Numerical masturbation would be a better description.

Big number turns into little, limp number once the excitement dies down and someone else is in the room.
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Cue up Kalous rant somebody!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Because aid climbing gives someone the ability to force a line where a line maybe doesn't exist? It would be like a free route established with epoxied holds. Why bolt on holds to make it 5.14 when you can bolt on holds to make it 5.10 :)

A hole is a hole, right?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
Cue up Kalous rant somebody!



cf. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boQHYBhlOcs

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Just go where there are no ratings.

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
I've got to admire Mt10910's ability to create controversy over climbing topics. Keep keeping us lively!

John
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 11, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
I don't forget batheads, a tedious book and 30 years of misticism...

TwistedCrank

climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
Oct 11, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
There are aid ratings?

Who knew?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 11, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
get up there and change them.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
French free.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
Nylon jugs.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
I used to post like mt, I got better.






...mostly

lol
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Bolt ladder =A0
40' slab falls from microhooking above 20 year old Z-macs = A3+
Deeply trenched leadheads every 18 inches = A6+

Lol.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
Slack! Take!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
When life gives you aids, make lemonaids.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
LOL!!!

Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Oct 11, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Clean aid.
Reusable adhesion pads without sticky glue

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-57401164-1/the-holy-grail-of-adhesives/

A pad the size of an index card can hold a maximum force of about 700 pounds while adhering to a smooth surface such as glass.

http://www.umass.edu/researchnext/umass-scientists-invent-new-gecko-super-adhesive


JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 11, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Roper's Green Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley had an interesting rating for the expanding flake traverse on the Sentinel West Face. The Red Roper Guide rated the pitch A5. He reasoned in the Green guide that it could be rated either A1 or A5, depending on whether the climber popped. I think he settled on A4, IIRR. If I carry that logic a little farther, every pitch should be rated either A3 or C3, depending on whether or not it's hammerless, since there's always the possibility that the leader falls.

That might add a bit of otherwise lost adventure.

John
Messages 1 - 20 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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