Dolomites 2013; Part 3: Torre Quarta Bassa, via Normale

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Messages 21 - 28 of total 28 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2013 - 10:35am PT
Phyl-

Speaking of the Tre Cime area, my best climb in the Dolomites done in 1964 was the "Demuth Kante" on the Cima Ovest. I finally found a partner and did it w/o a guide. My partner was a young Brit by the name of Lew Brown. We actually made it to the "Ringband" at near dark and managed to get to the hut before they turned out the lights and locked the doors. Not bad, considering we had an "alpine start" at Noon! All climbing was done 100% free, no etriers used, and the crux pitch today is rated VII-. YDS equivalent is 5.10a/b. What facilitated our descent was the 300' perlon rope!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Oct 4, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
Brokedown: Thanks for posting more photos & stories. It is fun to see more folks posting up their fond memories and/or connections to this area.

I think schnitzel, crisp pommes frites cooked in lard, and the multitude of fine wines: are some of the finer things in Europe.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Fritz-

I had some marvelous South Tirolian wine that was just a bit lighter in body than a Pinot Noir, and it went very well with the Pasta courses and the Wiener Schnitzel. Had one Schnitzel "Cordon Bleu," complete with prosciutto and emmenthaler. Yum!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Oct 5, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Nice Rodger!!! Thanks,
Was the rock better then the city of rocks???
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Ezra-

Rock on the Falzarego Tower was "as good as" CoR, but overall...no. Almost every ledge had some "loose stuff," and careful rope management was the order of the day.

Rodger
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Oct 5, 2013 - 06:30pm PT

Too bad I got old when I wasn't looking!


You're looking real good, Rodger! Many more climbing days for you.


;>)
hb81

climber
Oct 5, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
and finish off with Torre Grande, West Summit via della Guida.

First alpine climb I ever did, only following my mentor. I was scared shitless at times, but it eased the higher we got up. (It's only 5 pitches, but for someone who had done only single-pitch before thats quite enough)

Nice flat summit with incredible views of the surrounding mountains like the huge wall of the Tofane.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
hb81-

Just for you, here's a picture I took of a party on the Torre Grande, via della Guida (Bergfuehrer Route), W. Summit.

Two parties on "Bergfuehrer Route" on Torre Grande, West Summit Route....
Two parties on "Bergfuehrer Route" on Torre Grande, West Summit Route.One party finishing pitch #2, and a second party starting pitch #3.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The route is 5 leads long...about 435 feet of climbing; UIAA Gr. IV+ (5.6).
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