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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
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The Time Bomb Flake isn't there anymore! There is a rivet about six feet out from the crack, surrounded by blank rock right there.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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A shot of Mark on the redemption pitch. 5.9+ (5.10b r/x we figured).
That is the runout above the anchor (factor 2 fall) that includes the crux but the pitch is very sustained right to the anchor.
I got to lead the first 5.9r (5.10a) pitch and got to follow this one. So very cool to be free climbing high up on El Cap again. And what a setting. Very much like the Middle Cathedral apron but with a bit more air under ones feet.
Mark was in machine mode and stormed up the pitch. No hesitation. Very solid.
He had been thinking about this one for a while.
Quite the final crux for an amazingly varied aid route. Still wonder how that some of those flakes below were nailed. Sketchy enough to watch the small cams expand the cracks as you stood on them.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Thinking back, I think I did a lot of mixed free on that pitch with the Hourglass timebombs. I think this is a pic from that pitch? I have a vivid memory of a large homemade cam--a #5 or #6 in the section that has since blown off--a huge flake--and watching it flex to the minimum cam size to tipped out as I weighted it. I did expect the whole flake to blow off, hence the name, Hourglass Timebomb.
The pendulem I recall firing off first try--with Fires on-- like 5.9 A0 type thing (P2 I'd call it). But John my partner had tried it a few times and couldn't do it in aid boots prior to switching the lead.
more old pics here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=783123&tn=0 Cool to see the then and now...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, mark... great share... thanks so much and for all the other share on here, as well...
congratualtions, too!!
:)
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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nice ascent, lads.
i admire the resolve and vision
that you display in the few
aspects of your life that i know of.
i am certain that you are a good
man and very worthy of my respect.
it's funny, mark.
i wear your camp fours so proudly.
no one but me knows, well maybe a few others,
but when im out cragging,
i slip outta mark hudon's approach shoes,
and into paul crawford's old climbing shoes.
the shadow that i cast on those days,
it has its own shadow.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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I was in aiders for that whole pitch! That Penji was fun. I swung over with a meat hook on a daisy and snagged the edge of an overlap and then sort of down aided/down lowered a few moves to a better hook. I can't believe you free climbed on that one! Dang!
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WBraun
climber
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Atlantic Ocean/Iron Hawk 5.9+ pitch.
Wasn't that Kauk's I believe lead on the FA?
He was honed back then and did even think it was anything at all.
I asked him about the run out on FreeStone and he said he wasn't even thinking there was a problem.
I told him it's scary and he said today he probably would have put a bolt in for protection .....
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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I can totally see Ron just climbing and climbing and climbing and not even thinking of protection. Its actually that kind of pitch were you do a hard move and get to a comfortable stance, do another hard move and get to another stance, and on and on.
Max on the roof.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Mark and Max,
Way to go guys.
Still inspiring us to dig a little deeper and try a little harder!
Respect!
PB
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nice work Mark and Max!! What a treasure this thread is, the Taco at its best.
Thanks for the inspiration!
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Nice roof pic!
I told him it's scary and he said today he probably would have put a bolt in for protection .....
I get that it's not a sport crag and all, but seems a bit ego driven to just rally the whole pitch with no protection, just cause you can. Two sides of the coin I guess....
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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the quote above refers to freestone.
The 5.9+ pitch has a couple of bolts. Just not close to the cruxes.
Kauk was the best at that style of climbing and I truly think he did not think about it he was just climbing.
Maybe Kauk should have placed more bolts. Maybe they had run out of bolts.
It is what it is - a very bold lead in a a very spectacular location.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
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Like I said before, the pitch is mostly moderate moves interspersed with good stances. Do a hard move, get to a good stance, do a few more moves, another stance. The hardest bit is 20/25 feet off the anchor but after that it's pretty manageable.
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YetAnotherDave
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 14, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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...
the shadow that i cast on those days,
it has its own shadow.
That's poetry, that is.
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