Greetings from P11 of the AO Wall!

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 104 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Oct 5, 2013 - 04:46am PT
Wow!
What a gem of a thread.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Max and I understand that the ratings are only a guide. We didn't feel sandbagged. We didn't feel that there was technically any A4 on the route but that you certainly needed to have an A4 head the climb it. The A3+ pitches are as difficult as A3+ should ever be though!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 5, 2013 - 11:30am PT
I dunno how you guys use to climb with those monster pin racks deucey!?!?

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
On top.

Credit: Mark Hudon
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Oct 5, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Big congrats Guys!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
The A3r heads above the Tea Party Ledge.

Credit: Mark Hudon
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Oct 5, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
Weather looks splitter - and it's suppose to continue that way ..... dang:(
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
The weather was awesome, never too hot or cold although the last two days got windy and cool later in the day.

The Time bomb Hourglass pitch. Using pitons on these flakes would have been beyond nerve-wracking!

Credit: Mark Hudon
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Oct 5, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
I don't recall having to use too many pitons on the hourglass timebombs--they look like #1 or bigger cam size, which we had back in the day. It was just the smaller than #1 cams that we didn't have.

Looking at your pic, I have a notion that it was a combination of free, dicey cam, delicate hex placement, etc. I do recall a large cam in that section somewhere which flexed like a nobody's mojo.

Back in the day, I was pretty good at switching into free and back into aid--it's what I did best, probably. (like a 5.9x mantle on Kali Yuga that a 5.13 climber had to drill on--heh heh).

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about in action on the AO. Luckily I don't have a lot of photos of my free/aid technique because I was always hoping my belayer was fully on it (and not taking pictures).

free climbing a section on the FA of Atlantic Ocean Wall
free climbing a section on the FA of Atlantic Ocean Wall
Credit: deuce4

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
The Time Bomb Flake isn't there anymore! There is a rivet about six feet out from the crack, surrounded by blank rock right there.

Credit: Mark Hudon
m_jones

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
Oct 6, 2013 - 02:11am PT
A shot of Mark on the redemption pitch. 5.9+ (5.10b r/x we figured).
That is the runout above the anchor (factor 2 fall) that includes the crux but the pitch is very sustained right to the anchor.

I got to lead the first 5.9r (5.10a) pitch and got to follow this one. So very cool to be free climbing high up on El Cap again. And what a setting. Very much like the Middle Cathedral apron but with a bit more air under ones feet.

Mark was in machine mode and stormed up the pitch. No hesitation. Very solid.
He had been thinking about this one for a while.

Quite the final crux for an amazingly varied aid route. Still wonder how that some of those flakes below were nailed. Sketchy enough to watch the small cams expand the cracks as you stood on them.

Atlantic Ocean/Iron Hawk 5.9+ pitch.
Atlantic Ocean/Iron Hawk 5.9+ pitch.
Credit: m_jones
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Oct 6, 2013 - 03:53am PT
Thinking back, I think I did a lot of mixed free on that pitch with the Hourglass timebombs. I think this is a pic from that pitch? I have a vivid memory of a large homemade cam--a #5 or #6 in the section that has since blown off--a huge flake--and watching it flex to the minimum cam size to tipped out as I weighted it. I did expect the whole flake to blow off, hence the name, Hourglass Timebomb.

The pendulem I recall firing off first try--with Fires on-- like 5.9 A0 type thing (P2 I'd call it). But John my partner had tried it a few times and couldn't do it in aid boots prior to switching the lead.

Hourglass Timebomb pitch &#40;?&#41;
Hourglass Timebomb pitch (?)
Credit: deuce4

more old pics here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=783123&tn=0 Cool to see the then and now...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 6, 2013 - 05:19am PT
hey there say, mark... great share... thanks so much and for all the other share on here, as well...

congratualtions, too!!
:)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Oct 6, 2013 - 06:57am PT
nice ascent, lads.

i admire the resolve and vision
that you display in the few
aspects of your life that i know of.

i am certain that you are a good
man and very worthy of my respect.

it's funny, mark.
i wear your camp fours so proudly.
no one but me knows, well maybe a few others,
but when im out cragging,
i slip outta mark hudon's approach shoes,
and into paul crawford's old climbing shoes.

the shadow that i cast on those days,
it has its own shadow.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 11:37am PT
I was in aiders for that whole pitch! That Penji was fun. I swung over with a meat hook on a daisy and snagged the edge of an overlap and then sort of down aided/down lowered a few moves to a better hook. I can't believe you free climbed on that one! Dang!
WBraun

climber
Oct 6, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Atlantic Ocean/Iron Hawk 5.9+ pitch.

Wasn't that Kauk's I believe lead on the FA?

He was honed back then and did even think it was anything at all.

I asked him about the run out on FreeStone and he said he wasn't even thinking there was a problem.

I told him it's scary and he said today he probably would have put a bolt in for protection .....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
I can totally see Ron just climbing and climbing and climbing and not even thinking of protection. Its actually that kind of pitch were you do a hard move and get to a comfortable stance, do another hard move and get to another stance, and on and on.

Max on the roof.

Credit: Mark Hudon
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 6, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
Mark and Max,

Way to go guys.
Still inspiring us to dig a little deeper and try a little harder!

Respect!

PB
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Oct 6, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Nice work Mark and Max!! What a treasure this thread is, the Taco at its best.

Thanks for the inspiration!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Oct 7, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Nice roof pic!

I told him it's scary and he said today he probably would have put a bolt in for protection .....

I get that it's not a sport crag and all, but seems a bit ego driven to just rally the whole pitch with no protection, just cause you can. Two sides of the coin I guess....

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