Dolomites 2013; Kleiner Falzaregoturm.

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Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 28, 2013 - 09:27am PT
This is actually part II of my ongoing Trip Report; we set out for day #2 at the Cinque Torri, but Mauro Bernardi commented that our selection of climbs were all North facing and after the previous night's snow, would be pretty miserable. He suggested we simply skip my "training climb" program and jump to the Kleiner Falzaregoturm, "via della Guida;" this is a South facing wall and is a real Cortina area "Classic." So...off we went!

Getting into the harness at the base of climb.
Getting into the harness at the base of climb.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Pitch #1 is fairly easy, and is only 60 feet long.

The easy-but-exposed traverse on lead 2; only 5.4, but a dead-vertical...
The easy-but-exposed traverse on lead 2; only 5.4, but a dead-vertical wall below.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Via della Guida shares a belay stance with the well-known "Comici" route.

Wide crack/chimney on pitch #4.
Wide crack/chimney on pitch #4.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The fourth rope length follows a line to a wide crack/chimney which is over come by stemming.

Out on the wonderful slab section of the climb! Very steep, but wonder...
Out on the wonderful slab section of the climb! Very steep, but wonderful holds!
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The "slab pitch" is the outstanding lead of the entire trip; 75 degrees, and only 5.5.

Traversing upwards to the final arête.
Traversing upwards to the final arÍte.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

The climb shares the final 3 leads with the "Comici" route directly to the summit.

Rodger and Mauro, at the summit.
Rodger and Mauro, at the summit.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

There is a truly distinct summit spire.
The "true" summit directly behind me.
The "true" summit directly behind me.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Overall ratings: Kleiner Falzaregoturm, via della Guida: 9 leads, 850 feet of climbing, and UIAA IV+ (YDS 5.6/5.7). I personally thought the climb to be overall mostly 5.5, with a couple slightly harder spots at 5.6 and a few moves on pitch 5 that were 5.7-.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HRKRNH
Sep 28, 2013 - 09:30am PT
Two thumbs UP !!! looks like a SWEET aventure!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 28, 2013 - 09:35am PT
Very Nice!

Thanks for sharing your limestone fun with us, Rodger!
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Sep 28, 2013 - 11:31am PT
Rodger,

Looks like fun, the Dollies is a fantastic destination.

Can I ask how you've tied in, it may be me misreading the image, but it looks like the rope is direct tied through the belay loop on your harness?

Steve
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2013 - 11:44am PT
You are indeed correct; this was at Mauro's insistence and it's not my standard method. Since I wasn't leading, it didn't matter as much. I am normally very "anal-retentive" about tie-ins.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Sep 28, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
WOW. . . neat place. . . really neat place.

TFPU!

:-)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 28, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Great!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 28, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
SWEET!!!!!! Thanks for the post Rodger.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
Here's another picture of the Falzarego Towers, in profile from the West.

Grosser Falzarego Tower (left), and Kleiner Falzarego Tower (right).
Grosser Falzarego Tower (left), and Kleiner Falzarego Tower (right).
Credit: Brokedownclimber

And here's a view from the Falzarego Pass road near the Cinque Torri chairlift station.

Falzarego Towers; Kleiner Falzaregoturm is the pointed summit at the l...
Falzarego Towers; Kleiner Falzaregoturm is the pointed summit at the left , and the route finishes on the left skyline.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

For relative scale, an extreme telephoto showing 2 parties on the upper skyline (final 2 pitches).

Upper section of Kleiner Falzaregoturm; climbers on skyline.
Upper section of Kleiner Falzaregoturm; climbers on skyline.
Credit: Brokedownclimber

Detail of climbers on Kleiner Falzaregoturm.
Detail of climbers on Kleiner Falzaregoturm.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Oct 2, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Looks like a great route! Glad you had decent weather to get up it after the snow.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 2, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Multipitchiano! Buono!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Fritz-

The advantage of climbing with the guidebook author!

My last day of climbing was the 16th, and we only did one short route due to rapidly falling temperatures affecting my sprained knee. By mid afternoon, the Cinque Torri were all socked in by clouds, and the snow was really significant that evening. It required the snowplows to get the passes reopened by late afternoon the next day. Most of the other climbs I had planned were not possible afterwards.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 2, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Yeah Rodger....missed you at FL this year but we got a few climbs in and you're name came up! Miss you...hopefully connect with you sometime this fall...

Susan
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
I love that smile on your face, Brokedown! It all looks gorgeous!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Oct 2, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
god i miss the dolomites.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 2, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Thanks Roger, keep it up!
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Oct 3, 2013 - 03:18am PT
Dolomites!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Oct 3, 2013 - 06:30am PT
Thanks for the trip report.
Your pictures are what dreams are made of!
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