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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Many years later now but no myth....Great thing about age is that ancient experiences, especially climbing related, remian vivid to the present.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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N. E. route up to "what the hell, try it."
Let the devil take the chicken-hearts.
The worst I could do is fail and I have much practice at that.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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always the one that is in 50 Crowded Climbs in North America
if that's the only one you're ever going to do...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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I did that one first Ed, because in those days they made first timers do Durrance. They even made Robbins and Bridwell climb it their first time, I hear. I've soloed it since then, when I was alone and saw a chance. But I don't think I ever did it roped again. It's one of my least favorite. For a similar grade I'd reccomend Tad (Blitzo and I concurred on that one) or one of the Weissners.
McCarthy West might be my all time fave, though I think it pushes the 5.10- criteria. In the mid five ten to five eleven grades there is an amazing choice of classic routes to do!!
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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Walt bailey for.sure. we always said it was the best 5.9 on the planet.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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I'd like to do Tad with none other.
He's my Maine man.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks for all the awesome responses! Looks like I may have to set aside more than a single afternoon and tick a few of these.
Question: Do I have any chance of finding these routes with the Mountain Project descriptions, or should I just suck it up and buy the guide book?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Assembly Line
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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You'd probably do fine with MP, though they had the old "poor persons guide" by Dingus & Hollis for sale at the fort recently. Alternately for three times as much you could buy Frank/ Zack's book that has vintage photos of said pair in it!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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When in doubt support real guide book authors. personaly i try to remove my routes from the free sites as soon as a real guide comes out.... help a poor history buff climber out and buy the book;)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Wow, those routes look so good! I haven't climbed much crack for a while, but I sure would like to.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Now you're talkin Jaybro. What wall is that?
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