If you could do one route at Devil's Tower...

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Messages 21 - 34 of total 34 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Sep 13, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Many years later now but no myth....Great thing about age is that ancient experiences, especially climbing related, remian vivid to the present.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 13, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
N. E. route up to "what the hell, try it."

Let the devil take the chicken-hearts.

The worst I could do is fail and I have much practice at that.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 13, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
always the one that is in 50 Crowded Climbs in North America

if that's the only one you're ever going to do...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
I did that one first Ed, because in those days they made first timers do Durrance. They even made Robbins and Bridwell climb it their first time, I hear. I've soloed it since then, when I was alone and saw a chance. But I don't think I ever did it roped again. It's one of my least favorite. For a similar grade I'd reccomend Tad (Blitzo and I concurred on that one) or one of the Weissners.

McCarthy West might be my all time fave, though I think it pushes the 5.10- criteria. In the mid five ten to five eleven grades there is an amazing choice of classic routes to do!!
homemade salsa

Trad climber
west tetons
Sep 14, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Walt bailey for.sure. we always said it was the best 5.9 on the planet.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32am PT
I'd like to do Tad with none other.

He's my Maine man.
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Thanks for all the awesome responses! Looks like I may have to set aside more than a single afternoon and tick a few of these.

Question: Do I have any chance of finding these routes with the Mountain Project descriptions, or should I just suck it up and buy the guide book?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Assembly Line
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 14, 2013 - 02:03am PT
You'd probably do fine with MP, though they had the old "poor persons guide" by Dingus & Hollis for sale at the fort recently. Alternately for three times as much you could buy Frank/ Zack's book that has vintage photos of said pair in it!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 14, 2013 - 11:00am PT
When in doubt support real guide book authors. personaly i try to remove my routes from the free sites as soon as a real guide comes out.... help a poor history buff climber out and buy the book;)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 14, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Sep 14, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
Wow, those routes look so good! I haven't climbed much crack for a while, but I sure would like to.
Sir Bryan

Trad climber
MN
Sep 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Now you're talkin Jaybro. What wall is that?
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