Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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What would it be?
Qualifiers: It has to top out and it has to be 5.10- or easier (I'm coming off of a shoulder injury).
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Sep 13, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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walt bailey memorial.
new wave to assembly line
Probably the best way to the top under 5.10-
el cracko is good too
Bryan
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Assembly Line , 5.9 perfect hands , the top out pitches are a little ratty.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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+1 for el cracko (this time of year it gets shade around 3pm)
If you are trying to stay on the shady side, I recently did assembly line if you do the patent pending finish you get to go caving! bring a 70M rope link P1 and 2 to the teachers lounge climb P3 of assembly line (9-) go left from the anchor to the cave the 70M rope will also help you to reach the top via patent pending finish from the anchors, if all you have is a 60M you have to build an anchor before the last gully scramble. watch out for the thorns ;)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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5.8: El Cracko (or Bon Homme Var)
5.9: Soler (or Assembly Line, or Walt Bailey)
5.10-: Tulgey Wood (kind of mungey for the top out)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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A second vote for Assembly Line.
edit: or third or fourth... guess that's your answer.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Sep 13, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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BonHOmme Variation
5.8 Locker hands
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Sep 13, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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The second pitch of Tulgey is a beast. I took 4 #4 BDs. It is a lot of fists!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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I'd vote Tulgey Wood, though you can't go wrong with any of the choices suggested so far!
Edit TW = Vedauwoo 5.9
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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I'd want to do one with Shanti!!!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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always wondered what the attraction is. DT strikes me as a novelty climb at best.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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You're not a climber, I take it...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Deffinately mystery express all bolts no need to mess with that pesky gear.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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I hear that that Frank guy is a made up, imaginary, climber...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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McCarthy West FV is 10b does that qualify as 10-. Full value really kick ass sustained route up one of the biggest best faces fingers, hands, stem box, offwidth, chimney, face jugs at the top, and a huge viewing gallery. Nothing better.
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SicMic
climber
two miles from Eldorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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West Face a nice choice if you want something physical. Bon Homme very nice for a great multi to the top. Some of those one-pitches are good, but it's more fun to get into that junky stuff near the summit. Solo Durrance is sweet if you can figure out how to avoid the crowds.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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ITS TRUE ITS TRUE! Frank is not a real man............HE IS A LIVING BREATHING LEGEND
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Durrance route. Circa '71 on way to the Tower from back east my partner was bitten by a rattler in the badlands. Hospital in Kadoka and crutches for her tossed that plan so never did it...years later still wonderin'. Do it, IMO.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Hmmm, I thought it was bullsh#t, but maybe there is something to that myth...
I thought he looked more like his, though;
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Many years later now but no myth....Great thing about age is that ancient experiences, especially climbing related, remian vivid to the present.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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N. E. route up to "what the hell, try it."
Let the devil take the chicken-hearts.
The worst I could do is fail and I have much practice at that.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
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always the one that is in 50 Crowded Climbs in North America
if that's the only one you're ever going to do...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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I did that one first Ed, because in those days they made first timers do Durrance. They even made Robbins and Bridwell climb it their first time, I hear. I've soloed it since then, when I was alone and saw a chance. But I don't think I ever did it roped again. It's one of my least favorite. For a similar grade I'd reccomend Tad (Blitzo and I concurred on that one) or one of the Weissners.
McCarthy West might be my all time fave, though I think it pushes the 5.10- criteria. In the mid five ten to five eleven grades there is an amazing choice of classic routes to do!!
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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Walt bailey for.sure. we always said it was the best 5.9 on the planet.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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I'd like to do Tad with none other.
He's my Maine man.
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Thanks for all the awesome responses! Looks like I may have to set aside more than a single afternoon and tick a few of these.
Question: Do I have any chance of finding these routes with the Mountain Project descriptions, or should I just suck it up and buy the guide book?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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Assembly Line
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:03am PT
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You'd probably do fine with MP, though they had the old "poor persons guide" by Dingus & Hollis for sale at the fort recently. Alternately for three times as much you could buy Frank/ Zack's book that has vintage photos of said pair in it!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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When in doubt support real guide book authors. personaly i try to remove my routes from the free sites as soon as a real guide comes out.... help a poor history buff climber out and buy the book;)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 14, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 14, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
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Wow, those routes look so good! I haven't climbed much crack for a while, but I sure would like to.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 14, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
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Now you're talkin Jaybro. What wall is that?
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