If you could do one route at Devil's Tower...

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
What would it be?

Qualifiers: It has to top out and it has to be 5.10- or easier (I'm coming off of a shoulder injury).
Bschmitz

Ice climber
pdx
Sep 13, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
walt bailey memorial.
new wave to assembly line

Probably the best way to the top under 5.10-
el cracko is good too


Bryan
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Sep 13, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Assembly Line
Assembly Line
Credit: Dapper Dan

Assembly Line , 5.9 perfect hands , the top out pitches are a little ratty.
Sir Bryan

Trad climber
MN
Sep 13, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
+1 for el cracko (this time of year it gets shade around 3pm)

If you are trying to stay on the shady side, I recently did assembly line if you do the patent pending finish you get to go caving! bring a 70M rope link P1 and 2 to the teachers lounge climb P3 of assembly line (9-) go left from the anchor to the cave the 70M rope will also help you to reach the top via patent pending finish from the anchors, if all you have is a 60M you have to build an anchor before the last gully scramble. watch out for the thorns ;)
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Sep 13, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
5.8: El Cracko (or Bon Homme Var)
5.9: Soler (or Assembly Line, or Walt Bailey)
5.10-: Tulgey Wood (kind of mungey for the top out)
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Sep 13, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
A second vote for Assembly Line.

edit: or third or fourth... guess that's your answer.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Sep 13, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
BonHOmme Variation
5.8 Locker hands
Bschmitz

Ice climber
pdx
Sep 13, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
The second pitch of Tulgey is a beast. I took 4 #4 BDs. It is a lot of fists!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
I'd vote Tulgey Wood, though you can't go wrong with any of the choices suggested so far!

Edit TW = Vedauwoo 5.9
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 13, 2013 - 04:27pm PT

I'd want to do one with Shanti!!!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Sep 13, 2013 - 04:41pm PT

always wondered what the attraction is. DT strikes me as a novelty climb at best.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
You're not a climber, I take it...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 13, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Deffinately mystery express all bolts no need to mess with that pesky gear.
sween345

climber
back east
Sep 13, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
When you get there find Frank Sanders and ask him.http://www.devilstowerlodge.com/about_us/
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
I hear that that Frank guy is a made up, imaginary, climber...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 13, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
McCarthy West FV is 10b does that qualify as 10-. Full value really kick ass sustained route up one of the biggest best faces fingers, hands, stem box, offwidth, chimney, face jugs at the top, and a huge viewing gallery. Nothing better.
SicMic

climber
two miles from Eldorado
Sep 13, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
West Face a nice choice if you want something physical. Bon Homme very nice for a great multi to the top. Some of those one-pitches are good, but it's more fun to get into that junky stuff near the summit. Solo Durrance is sweet if you can figure out how to avoid the crowds.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#294691
Sir Bryan

Trad climber
MN
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
ITS TRUE ITS TRUE! Frank is not a real man............HE IS A LIVING BREATHING LEGEND
The Legend Himself
The Legend Himself
Credit: Sir Bryan
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Durrance route. Circa '71 on way to the Tower from back east my partner was bitten by a rattler in the badlands. Hospital in Kadoka and crutches for her tossed that plan so never did it...years later still wonderin'. Do it, IMO.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Hmmm, I thought it was bullsh#t, but maybe there is something to that myth...


I thought he looked more like his, though;
Credit: Jaybro
storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Many years later now but no myth....Great thing about age is that ancient experiences, especially climbing related, remian vivid to the present.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
N. E. route up to "what the hell, try it."

Let the devil take the chicken-hearts.

The worst I could do is fail and I have much practice at that.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 13, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
always the one that is in 50 Crowded Climbs in North America

if that's the only one you're ever going to do...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
I did that one first Ed, because in those days they made first timers do Durrance. They even made Robbins and Bridwell climb it their first time, I hear. I've soloed it since then, when I was alone and saw a chance. But I don't think I ever did it roped again. It's one of my least favorite. For a similar grade I'd reccomend Tad (Blitzo and I concurred on that one) or one of the Weissners.

McCarthy West might be my all time fave, though I think it pushes the 5.10- criteria. In the mid five ten to five eleven grades there is an amazing choice of classic routes to do!!
homemade salsa

Trad climber
west tetons
Sep 13, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Walt bailey for.sure. we always said it was the best 5.9 on the planet.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 13, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
I'd like to do Tad with none other.

He's my Maine man.
Mark K

Social climber
San Marcos, California
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Thanks for all the awesome responses! Looks like I may have to set aside more than a single afternoon and tick a few of these.

Question: Do I have any chance of finding these routes with the Mountain Project descriptions, or should I just suck it up and buy the guide book?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Sep 13, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
Assembly Line
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
You'd probably do fine with MP, though they had the old "poor persons guide" by Dingus & Hollis for sale at the fort recently. Alternately for three times as much you could buy Frank/ Zack's book that has vintage photos of said pair in it!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 14, 2013 - 08:00am PT
When in doubt support real guide book authors. personaly i try to remove my routes from the free sites as soon as a real guide comes out.... help a poor history buff climber out and buy the book;)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 14, 2013 - 09:32am PT
Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Sep 14, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Hospital in kadoka now there is a scary thought. Something like A5++
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Sep 14, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Wow, those routes look so good! I haven't climbed much crack for a while, but I sure would like to.
Sir Bryan

Trad climber
MN
Sep 14, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
Now you're talkin Jaybro. What wall is that?
Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews