Honnold record broken?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 80 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 12, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
Excellent.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Thanks for getting us weenies all psyched Marc. You're killing it!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Sep 12, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Yeah Marc! Nice work buddy!


Then Borderline to high plains- proud.


I'd be surprised if that's not the first time that link has been third classed.


Btw Mr E, that's a lower harder start to "this monkey", think its called grinch goes to heaven or something v8/9ish. Really cool teaser actually, where's the full length vid???
saa

climber
Bleau, cham, pink granite coast
Oct 4, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
relic = troll





in 2010, a touron asked in el cap meadow:
why do people do something so dangerous , so crazy?
climbing el cap that is.
i answered: why do athletes compete in the olympics, why do soldiers go to war?
ok, i get your point, he said.

for those among you who understand the gap between the general public and the el cap climber, it shouldn't be too hard to understand the gap between you and alex honnold, mason earle, or marc.

.... unless you re a taco touron that is.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Oct 4, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
I think what Marc-Andre has achieved is GREAT and I think the douchery is from people who just want to say "splat" or "yawn" every time something beyond their frame of reference occurs.


It's a strange calculus that poeple who bag on others most often feel intimated by or are made to feel less than by those out there doing radical and clearly dangerous things. Often the initial critical remarks are followed by claims that they don't care, not really, which is another form of dismissal. What you rarely if ever hear is the truth: "This stuff scares and confuses me and I don't understand it at all. Ergo they must be showing off, and are doing something stupid. So maybe I can't do that, but it's because I'm not stupid."

In some subtle way this game shifts the attention away form the "madman" and onto the person passing judgement, who was left so far behind by the "crazy one."

In this manner "That guy's an idiot" remains the common refrain of the sad sac with a crook in his neck from looking up at the other guy, while insisting that he doesn't care.

Ain't we humans a fine kettle of fish?

JL
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 4, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Agreed, JL... but sometimes there is also that feeling that you just don't want someone as likeable and unique as Alex Honnold, for instance, to get hurt. I never worried about you, I always figured the ground wasn't hard enough to do you any damage. :)
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Oct 5, 2013 - 09:46am PT
I honestly don't know how some of these guys never get hurt. That alone is amazing to me.

JL
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Oct 5, 2013 - 11:21am PT
JL, they do get hurt.
Statically speaking they will die young.

Sure there are a few outliers but to tell young kids about these outliers and not the thousands who die, before knowing all the many wonders of life, or the people who die and leave orphans is unconscionable to me.

99. 9 percent of the world thinks I'm crazy and I personally love free soloing myself.
So if I have to be the voice of reason there is really something wrong. I have a huge respect for the odds. Sure you can do it for a while and even a long time on occasion - I myself have only fallen by accident once in my entire life - coincidently it was on a route in Squamish.
But I and others are careful because we want to experience the many, many things life has to offer. These young kids have no idea yet and in my opinion the modern cult of reckless risk in climbing is enabling this behavior.


In my opinion magazines, intelligent leaders, and video makers should not be promoting this kind of stuff. I feel very strongly that there is something wrong with the climbing world concerning this right now.

Yesterday, when I read what you wrote I was at the end of an 8 hour period where I had to bring a woman with severe metastatic cancer back from death. She had been through a short surgery to create a diverting ileostomy and she was then closed up because she was full of cancer. It took everything I had to bring her back so she would have a few days or maybe a week to sign papers and say bye to her children who are still in junior high school.
So when I read what you wrote I was pretty much emotionally crippled and it made me so angry. It's the first time you have ever wrote something that is utterly awful in every way.
These incredible kids are risking their very short lives for absolutely nothing. You lived through it all JL and are very wise. You need to be the one to tell them! Most won't listen and I realize that it is not anyone's job but climbing culture should absolutely not be a cheerleader for this kind of stuff. There are many, many people working so hard and overcoming so much to make this world a better place. People who soar to the stars and back while they perform pure genius during surgeries, or writing literature or creating the knowledge we use in our science. To say many of them don't have the sac' to live or can't understand stupid risk is the height of arrogance. And if that is what the climbing world is now all about it is nothing I want to be part of anymore.



Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 5, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
JL, they do get hurt.
Statically speaking they will die young.

Yes but when push comes to shove its their row to hoe. It wasn't their idea to get born so what do they owe us exactly? The standard common courtesy and respect that comes with sharing the planet but beyond that the world is their oyster. I really can't fault kids especially for pushing the envelope of what is possible so long as they don't drag anyone else along unwittingly.

Later on when they get saddled with kids its a different story.

Thats right..... you will get saddled with kids... heh heh....
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 5, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Relic ya troll!!






Riley, what route u crater on in Squamish?? What happened?








Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 5, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
In my opinion magazines, intelligent leaders, and video makers should not be promoting this kind of stuff.

Yes. No one even cares what you do on a rope anymore unless it's 15.5c... and even then it's boring compared to solo'n Half Dome with nothing more than a chalk bag and a power bar.

I think it was Louis CK that said kids are so stimulated now that they can't even enjoy five minutes looking at the wonders of Yosemite.

How far off are we from the futuristic movies where TV shows are an actual game of Russian roulette?

Filming Dan Osman dying didn't change anything. Would filming a free solo death finally change things? Doubtful, I suppose.

Not that I don't want boldness, climbing has always appreciated boldness. I'm blown away by the free solos of these amazing routes. It is totally exciting and fun to watch. I just worry, and personally don't want to encourage it.

I honestly don't know how some of these guys never get hurt. That alone is amazing to me.

I know. I just got a wasp sting up on Tahquitz a couple weeks back... I jumped and started swatting. But I was on an easy route with a rope. If I was close to my limit and free soloing...
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 5, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
If you were good at free-soloing, focused on something difficult you would easily ignore a bee sting. That focus is part of the allure of extreme sport.

I don't have a good answer for any of this. I do think folks should be free to do as they like in the mountains foolish or not. That judgement of foolish is a slippery slope. It is quite reasonable to say that any climbing activity is foolish on some level.

I KNOW some folks are soloing more foolishly than others however.

Recently I made the judgement that I was not at all impressed by a certain wingsuit stunt. I felt that there was no way to be certain of the uncontrollable variables such that even perfect mental/body control could ensure a very high probability of survival. Relying on a large helping of luck for survival is a place where I simply tune out and think.. IDIOT! Is that different than the successful familyman who looks at any climbing and thinks IDIOT.. I'm not truly sure. Different values certainly.. but the conclusion is perhaps no less valid.

Relying on hard earned skill and mental focus while accepting some basic level of objective hazard such as random rockfall impresses me. I spent a great deal of time in that arena in ski-mountaineering. No regrets and in many cases I was probably safer when I couldn't make a mistake than some days at the resort.

Fact is I'm a fraidy cat. I don't do something unless I am damn sure I can do it safely. I've done a few pretty cool things that others would have thought rediculous and that many of todays best have not repeated in as good or difficult a style. I was able to do those things because I was damn skilled and spent pretty much every day living that type of skill.

I'm no longer that competent because I don't have the burning desire and singleminded focus for those things that I once had. I miss that ability sometimes though.

I enjoy the hell out of seeing it displayed so well in folks like Honnold.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Oct 5, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
a couple thoughts:

1. non-soloists trying to understand free soloists is as non-climbers trying to understand climbers, as the sedentary trying to understand the lives of the nomadic, or as the bureaucrat trying to understand the life of a warrior.

in all cases it's easier for either extreme to dismiss the motivations of their counterpart than it is to be open to the validity of the internal mysteries which, individually, we all have to accept.

2. how quickly some forget john bachar on that's incredible, henry barber on wide world of sports, or the newspaper coverage of expeditions to the himalaya in the mid-twentieth century...

i.e. the more things change: the more they stay the same. as humans we will always be fascinated by those living their lives on the fine line between the "known" and the "unknown", especially when that is coupled with the fine line between being and not-being. the only change, through time, is where the line is at.

tl;dr: "I'm the one that's got to die when it's time for me to die, so let me live my life the way I want to" applies equally to the other, as it does to ourselves.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Oct 5, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Something has changed though and we have the 5 deaths at any given time on the front page of ST to prove it ..

There were a few unwritten rules of climbing that I learned well when I first started climbing and it still didn't mean I didn't do some stupid things.
But the first one was you only solo for yourself- which seems to be broken just about everyday now.
The second one, which is as old as the original guys who explored the Alps, is that intelligence, safety, and caution are the first rules of climbing.
It's already so dangerous - why take anymore chances when you don't need too?
I know, it's hard not to be a hypocrite here and I'm not saying free solo is necessarily wrong.
But I'm trying to say is that the climbing world seems to be promoting idiocy over prudence.

Climbing is so fantastic - I want to be climbing when I'm 90. Not dead when I'm 22 because I wanted to impress some as#@&%es or get a 30 second spot in a movie.

Re- the crater question - I didn't crater, I was on a rope and stepped on a leaf that was on top of some moss. I had never fallen by accident at any time up to that point.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Oct 5, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
I do think folks should be free to do as they like in the mountains foolish or not.

Me too, definitely.

i.e. the more things change: the more they stay the same

Our nature?... yes. But, in how extreme "extreme sports" have become?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 6, 2013 - 12:24am PT
"I honestly don't know how some of these guys never get hurt. That alone is amazing to me.

JL"

I think it's because there is a Spirit that is everywhere and there are no coincidences.

It's not the soloists who die usually. It's in the high mountains or ordinary climbers making a mistake.

And despite people who worry about people free soloing for the wrong reasons, I find that when you are unroped and doing anything that feels dicey or scary, it gives you a quick reality check. Only the truly confident stay with it unless they have a death wish (an those guys seem to prefer hard aid)

Peace

Karl
seer

Mountain climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2013 - 08:41am PT
Oh, "get right out"

Mark's Sac is huge.......

Just ask Locker aye, he's had it on his chin.....

The SeeR

Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Oct 6, 2013 - 08:58am PT
Maybe Karl, but sometimes that spirit has better things to do than watch out for some idiots ass

I agree more that all the powerfull forces of will, skill, luck, focus, judgement - certainly the yin yang of humility and ego- etc all coalesce into the magic potion that results in repeated successful solos, the obvious thing to pay attention to is that if any of these components fall off the list, even for a moment and you fail to compensate or recognize it then the risk, already high, starts to sky rocket.

Personally being one of those scientism geeks, I think it's nothing but statistics. The risk that is, not the payoff.
seer

Mountain climber
Squamish
Oct 6, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Talk to any climber, who's any good, luck is the reason they're alive...

Some fantasy about everything happening for a reasons, is just level with a grade school girls- mentality.... musing- about her dead fish floating in her fish tank.

Human's aye, are destroying the Earth at a rapid pace, and thinking that a higher power has control over everyones fate; well, frankly and shirly, is just brain dead and insulting to the many greats who have perished.

Karl, aye... seems like a guy who's gone to India too many times, and has yet to realize, that karma and the caste system, have allowed people to live on trash, while his guru sucks up westerner's money, and feels justified to ignores the horrible suffering around him...

The SeeR.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Oct 6, 2013 - 09:21am PT
Some more perspectives:

Big Jim just turned eighty this year and questions the notion that we might gamble fifty years of living for a climb; any climb, rock, alpine, roped, unroped.
He says he'd hate to have missed the last fifty.

There was an excellent line here on ST that went something like this;
"If some chimp swaddled in free stuff finds themselves climbing with a photographer dangling nearby, they might not be climbing just for themselves."

The great Pedro Croftini ventured that (and I'm paraphrasing here) "If you find yourself falling through space to your demise, clothes flapping, because you wanted to impress someone, you've made a big joke of yourself."

I'm not sure when the climbing sponsorship game began and although it's definitely older than Mountain (now there's a stab from the past!), Climbing or Rock and Ice magazines, the concept did take hold with the advent of modern climbing media.
Now with I Phones and the Internet, you don't have to wait eight weeks for global profile.
The stakes in rock climbing seem to be pushed much higher and it would appear if you're not in danger of decking off of 13+ or free soloing, you're not going to have a profile worth attention or sponsorship.
The same is true for a lot of other high risk sports and if you're not putting it all on the line, it's not worth watching (or sponsoring).
The point is that this dynamic could put a lot of pressure on today's impressionable young athletes hungry for their fifteen minutes of fame.

In the context of this thread, Marc doesn't appear to be driven by recklessness or the pursuit of media profile.
I've had the privilege of talking to him a couple times as he did me the courtesy of asking my thoughts on routes he was interested in.
He shared a great piece on his experience soloing an aid route I put up years ago and collectively, these engagements suggest he's motivated primarily by the love of climbing and adventure.

I suggest Marc, like many other great examples in our sport, is following the age old "Warrior Athlete" path common to many high risk adventure sports unique to a society protected from the challenge of daily survival.
Hopefully he'll keep it in perspective, stay solid, know when it's time to change his focus and avoid becoming a tragic statistic before his time.

Respect


Messages 61 - 80 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews