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Messages 1561 - 1570 of total 1570 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 13, 2013 - 01:03am PT
You're in for a wild ride McHale's navy
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 13, 2013 - 01:08am PT
I was in a rowboat with Mickey Mouse once. I can handle it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 13, 2013 - 01:09am PT
Haha that would have been a good time I bet. You guys get goofy or what?
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 13, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Got him alright! There used to be a runout climb at Squamish called Firewalk. Been there done that. It's still a wee bit runout right? Or, should I ask if the FA team still owns it? It was just a 5.10 but I don't know if that included the mental aspect of the rating or not. Actually, the hardest part of the climb was watching some guys break into our car while we were up there. That pushed the rating to 5.11......my head almost exploded!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 13, 2013 - 03:12am PT
Oh damn man, that sucks you guys got looted & had to watch! I could see that making things cruxy for sure. What a peculiar situation.

I think the FA ists of firewalk sold the rights to it & it was subsequently fully sport bolted, thus requiring an upgrade to 12b but it feels more like 12c if its early season & the tick marks haven't filled in yet & there's no chalk on the crux holds :-)

Or are you thinking of hellfire wall?? That one they call 5.11 nowadays I think.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Nov 13, 2013 - 07:40am PT
let the crest-thumping re-commence!
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Nov 13, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Did John Bachar ever free solo the BY?

No. If I recall correctly, he said he didn't trust the knobs on the route enough.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 13, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Or are you thinking of hellfire wall?? That one they call 5.11 nowadays I think.

Ryan, no question that it is Firewalk. I don't have access to my guide but I'm pretty sure it's up on the Squaw. May be on Hellfire Wall for all I know if that's up there. I quit going up to Squamish after things started getting crowded. Climbing was never meant to be popular, but something for just a select few which did not include me! I was too Schizo which is why I've never forgotten the Chouinard Schizo hat. Anyone got one they want to part with?

I wanted to comment on some earlier comments somebody made about the ego being a dirty thing that should not be involved in putting routes up. Break my leg and throw me off the cliff! The game included trying to frighten your peers, but just short of killing them. That's what sport is. It's part of every sport on the planet. If a person can't take it, then they should go and drop acid and drop out, and let the real climbers keep the fire lit. It's no coincidence that the spelling of testpiece was very similar to the spelling of testicles BITD.

Glad to hear John did not FS BY. That would not have made sense.

Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 13, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
McHale.. yer OK with me.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Nov 14, 2013 - 10:57am PT
I hope the "owners" didn't mind that we replaced some of their mank down at Shelf Rd this past weekend.

Credit: Bob D'A
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