Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday


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Delhi Dog

Good Question...
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:28am PT
Heal well, ^^?

Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:45am PT
Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.

RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?

Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.

I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 11, 2013 - 08:17am PT
I agree with DMT...

But, there is a bit of comfort to be had in the pure predictability of it all.

I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.

Social climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.


I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.

eh... more fun to rampantly speculate.

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Someone falls and the ST genius's have it all figured out before there's been any report. Damn gym climbers.., rotten Leap rock.. - what the hell is that matter with you folks?

The Leap is excellent granite. Yes, newbies flock there and some fall, as well as more experienced folks at times, same as Yosemite. Did you ever have a close call when you stonemaster's were learning BITD?

Have a little compassion - hoping for a speedy recovery.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:32am PT
JD,, im on-board... Booty and bodies,, week of ~~~~~ !!!!!


Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:56am PT
The rotors and the wall.
The rotors and the wall.
Credit: Stonewalker

Lake Valley fire was on scene. The fallen climber had severe bruising on ribs. Suspected a possible punctured lung. The climber was Jason from south Lake Tahoe. Later that night he was discharged with bruised ribs. Lake Valley was the crew that recovered Dan and I off of Craven Image and also the lady that fell on Surrelaistic Pillar. They are amazing at what they do.

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:57am PT
CHP hoisting injured climber.
CHP hoisting injured climber.
Credit: Stonewalker
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:20am PT
Cool pics,, and Good to hear it only bruised ribs.

Have jason give me a call. Ill meet him at Clear creek for some pro -placement exercises. Advanced nutcraft/camcraft as it were.


Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an element to it....


Wrong. Distance has nothing to do with it. This problem exists everywhere. The number of people I see climbing out here who can't even belay is disturbing to say the least.


Turning a blind eye on the problem does not make it go away.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Kinda funny that DMT criticizes an attempt to educate the younger climbers when hes always talking about how we should educate the young climbers and not just tell them this or that.

My local lil crag now sees at least two serious accidents per summer. This is kind of alarming to me. Lots of work went into making the routes rather safe and protectable yet accidents are piling up there.

Sooo, in an effort to educate, im currently waiting on a call back from the western NV community college ( community education dept)about teaching a class on climbing. I may live to regret this, or not. Someone put this bug in my ear a while back. But im willing to giver a good try. They will learn trad first, sport second..


Sport climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
I'm inconfident in my gear placement, that's why I stick to sport and bouldering. Lol.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Wow Ron that seems like a big undertaking , you should consider putting a limit on the number of students that can enroll in the class , like 8 maybe .

I took an intro-to-rock-climbing class at Fullerton Junior College back in the day, it was held at the local gym . I loved it and was hooked . Wish we could have gotten outside to real rock though .

Trad climber
Point Pleasant, NJ
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:13am PT
for the youngsters that are looking for colleges with real rock nearby

Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO has had a rock climbing class since at least 1974 and the class takes place on real rock, at the x-rock area in town.

Glad to hear that the accident was only bruised ribs.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:44am PT

What happened on Craven Image?

Great route, but a tricky path to follow.

There is a 5.7X pitch that suckers people into, until it's too late!
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Nathan Smith does a great job with his climbing and rescue courses up at the U...

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Lake Tahoe Community College (LTCC) has a rock climbing class for beginners, intermediates, leading and self rescue. That's how I got started (sort of).

Let me know if you need an assistant instructor for the WNC class if/when they get back to you. That way, you could accommodate more than 8 people.
mark miller

Social climber
Sep 13, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Hey Ron if the class thing comes to fruition,(Insurance will probably be the sticking point) you might want to give Pat Mathews a call. Or even Rocco they both have experience with the problems of teaching climbing out of colleges and university's. Might have some insight on getting around the red tape. Where does Clear Creek actual sit is it on Indian Land? That might be another consideration.
Of course if your students can climb 5.11 in the gym they don't need to learn how to place no stinkin' gear.... Could be natural selection at least we were smart enough to go slow and learn nutcraft, they didn't have any stinkin' cams back then, or maybe we were lucky.

South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 13, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Its on Tribal Land.....memer we almost got arrested there that one cold snowy night a couple years ago for trespassing. At least I almost did for talking to the tribal police.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 13, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Shawn, Mark,, you can go to this site:

and look at map 3.3 which is the washoe tribes lower Clear creek acreage. Dino is on BLM lands...
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