Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 96 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
At least you clarified you see few pics of runnered cams. We would all have known you were lying if you said you actually saw people out climbing ;).

It's too bad the older generation has let us down so awfully.
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Not spraying

maybe you're not spraying but you sure do post that video up every chance you get...

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.

Yep, don't go there. Nothing worthwhile.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
zacly
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
I'm going to support Ron on this one point- the craft is IMPORTANT. I don't care how many people are climbing these days. I know my nutcraft but still defer to cams. You better believe that I runner those cams so that they don't walk in the tapers and flares common to the Leap.

If I can factor one/half onto a purple C3, or a micro brassy, then there is no excuse for ripping medium sized gear that should be bomber, and at a smaller fall factor to boot. The gear these days is fukking amazing if you use it right.

Here's to a speedy recovery for the injured, and a profound new relationship with his or her craft from here on out.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
I gotta agree that using your gear correctly is a big deal, I don't think anybody is arguing that. Inferring what happened in this case based on limited evidence and leaping to an indictment of all modern climbers for their "NUTCRAFT" is another thing entirely.

Like it or not, The Leap is a high flow area for relatively inexperienced climbers nowadays. That climb in particular. Considering how many 1000's more ascents that thing sees than in 1978 coupled with the skill level of those getting on it.... Props to all those keeping it together!

My personal thoughts on why people get hurt on some of the climbs in that area is there are some gear issues (The Line with the first placement; Bears Reach we've just discussed; and, Farley with maybe new leaders to the grade placing gear on a demanding lieback) coupled with a bit of climbing difficulty at those same points. These climbs all seem like part of the progression for new leaders, but none of them are of the sewed up variety and they catch these unfortunate few where they are lacking.

Then we get to hear how "dangerous" these climbs are. Wash, rinse, repeat. Oh well.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
We had a few like that in the Wasnatch... most notably Satan's Corner... a classic 5.8+... I think that is about Tahoe 5.11. Killed more than one novice climber. I still remember the blood stained rock at the base back in the mid-90s. Tragic.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Tricky pro?

Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with tricky pro.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with a "reach" either...but YMMV? The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:20am PT
The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.


Apparently the phrase "any level" doesn't mean "any level". Or maybe your use of the term "pro" also covers the psychological, i.e. not good, variety?

Yeah, super simple climb for us. Not for them. Covered.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:10am PT
I agree with Roger as well. I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

When I ran SAR out here for the NPS, I was on a number of rescues that resulted in severe injuries and deaths due to things like ripped gear, getting way off route, rap accidents, belay accidents etc.

Couple these factors with huge number of climbers and it's no surprise people are getting hurt all the time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:20am PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an rc.com element to it....

DMT
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:55am PT
^^^^^no shit^^^^
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Monday should have a permanent thread for posting the latest accident at Lovers Leap.
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Jim they should also how much booty did you score at the leap this weekend thread.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
Rick Linkert

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:24am PT
Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro. When I came out of retirement a while back, there were deaths right after my partner did The Line, Farley and Traveler's - blew our minds. I then saw a leader rip almost everythin as she neared us at the SB first pitch of Serenity. I turned away as it looked like she was going to hit. A nit filally held. We rapped to assist and the nut came out with a flip - no idea why it held. These accidents are completely unavoidable and appear to all be rated to last of experience placing pro. All new climbers should spend an apprenticeship following a master leader. Much too be learns from cleanind. Finally, many flakes at the Leap flex- always go for the solid corners and not the inviting flakes

This climber was very fortunate and his family and friends avoided much heartache
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:28am PT
Heal well, ^^?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.

RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?

Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.

I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
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