Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
We had a few like that in the Wasnatch... most notably Satan's Corner... a classic 5.8+... I think that is about Tahoe 5.11. Killed more than one novice climber. I still remember the blood stained rock at the base back in the mid-90s. Tragic.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:14am PT
Tricky pro?

Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with tricky pro.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with a "reach" either...but YMMV? The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:20am PT
The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.


Apparently the phrase "any level" doesn't mean "any level". Or maybe your use of the term "pro" also covers the psychological, i.e. not good, variety?

Yeah, super simple climb for us. Not for them. Covered.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:10am PT
I agree with Roger as well. I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

When I ran SAR out here for the NPS, I was on a number of rescues that resulted in severe injuries and deaths due to things like ripped gear, getting way off route, rap accidents, belay accidents etc.

Couple these factors with huge number of climbers and it's no surprise people are getting hurt all the time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:20am PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an rc.com element to it....

DMT
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:55am PT
^^^^^no shit^^^^
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Monday should have a permanent thread for posting the latest accident at Lovers Leap.
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Jim they should also how much booty did you score at the leap this weekend thread.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
Rick Linkert

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:24am PT
Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro. When I came out of retirement a while back, there were deaths right after my partner did The Line, Farley and Traveler's - blew our minds. I then saw a leader rip almost everythin as she neared us at the SB first pitch of Serenity. I turned away as it looked like she was going to hit. A nit filally held. We rapped to assist and the nut came out with a flip - no idea why it held. These accidents are completely unavoidable and appear to all be rated to last of experience placing pro. All new climbers should spend an apprenticeship following a master leader. Much too be learns from cleanind. Finally, many flakes at the Leap flex- always go for the solid corners and not the inviting flakes

This climber was very fortunate and his family and friends avoided much heartache
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:28am PT
Heal well, ^^?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.

RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?

Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.

I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:17am PT
I agree with DMT...

But, there is a bit of comfort to be had in the pure predictability of it all.

I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.

lol

I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.


eh... more fun to rampantly speculate.
crankster

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Someone falls and the ST genius's have it all figured out before there's been any report. Damn gym climbers.., rotten Leap rock.. - what the hell is that matter with you folks?

The Leap is excellent granite. Yes, newbies flock there and some fall, as well as more experienced folks at times, same as Yosemite. Did you ever have a close call when you stonemaster's were learning BITD?

Have a little compassion - hoping for a speedy recovery.
Stonewalker

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
[photo
The rotors and the wall.
The rotors and the wall.
Credit: Stonewalker
id=320730]

Lake Valley fire was on scene. The fallen climber had severe bruising on ribs. Suspected a possible punctured lung. The climber was Jason from south Lake Tahoe. Later that night he was discharged with bruised ribs. Lake Valley was the crew that recovered Dan and I off of Craven Image and also the lady that fell on Surrelaistic Pillar. They are amazing at what they do.
Stonewalker

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
CHP hoisting injured climber.
CHP hoisting injured climber.
Credit: Stonewalker
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an rc.com element to it....

DMT

Wrong. Distance has nothing to do with it. This problem exists everywhere. The number of people I see climbing out here who can't even belay is disturbing to say the least.

[Edit]

Turning a blind eye on the problem does not make it go away.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
I'm inconfident in my gear placement, that's why I stick to sport and bouldering. Lol.
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