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Snowmonkey
Ice climber
San Carlos, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
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There was a climbing accident on Lover's Leap on Sunday, around 11am. We have observed a fire and rescue team loading an injured person onto a litter at the base of Main Wall, just left of The Line. A CHP chopper hovered close to the wall and to the ground and winched the litter onboard. If anyone knows what happened please post the details so that the rest of us could learn and hopefully avoid (pulled gear? broken hold?)
With that, wishing the speedy recovery and better luck to the injured party.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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damn, climbed bears reach that morning very early and saw the ambulance pulling in as a i left strawberry around 12 but i don't know anything. best wishes to those involved.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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I pulled some gear from BR this morning. If any of it belongs to the injured, I'd like to return it.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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FYI Snowmonkey, left of the Line would be the EAST WALL, not the Main Wall...
Not being a smartass, just clarifying...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all... prayers and well wishes for all those involved...
thanks for sharing...
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Word is that a guy decked on Bear's Reach from 40' up on the first pitch. He was pulling on a flake after the 5.6 runout and pulled two of his three pieces. He landed on the flat, sandy area and not the surrounding talus. Climbers on Scimitar had a cell phone and called 911. Apparently, he may just end up with broken ribs and a bumped noggin. His belayer also got smacked in the head by a cam that ripped. Neither were wearing helmets.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Lucky.
Speedy recovery.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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the little layback move to the top of that little corner might be the crux of the climb. Sounds like they got pretty lucky. That is a long way to deck from.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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I know that exact move and agree that's probably the routes crux.
The entire route has tricky pro and is not exactly a beginners 5.7 imho. Not saying they were beginners, but 2 pieces did rip and there is reasonably good pro to be had on that first section.
Lucky guy if no helmet.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Ron, both a stopper and a cam blew. I think it's just the "craft" in general that needs some work.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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In order to appease Ron everyone needs to do this route in hob-nailed boots with a clothesline like he did back in '49.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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i agree, that little layback section after the traverse left on dikes is probably the crux of that climb. sorry to hear about the injured, but it sounds like they got pretty lucky, all things considered. here's to a speedy recovery.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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all best to all involved.
Yea, that move was the only one on my first trip up the BR that made me stop and try a few uneasy moves to gain that little ledge. super slick feet.
We might be up there Sunday. Hope it's not smokey
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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As if climbing videos shot on GoPro's weren't dizzying enough, now we have a speed spraying..err soloing video.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 03:19am PT
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Not spraying
Hoping somebody could comment where it ACTUALLY happened.
And that wasn't that fast so get over it.
This vid has been on STopo for over a year.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Sep 10, 2013 - 05:46am PT
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at 1:04, jay.
the slick spot mentioned up thread.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 06:40am PT
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Bummer for the climbing team.
I hope they both have a full and speedy recovery.
Weeg, that lie back move is the actual spot?
I ask because the first person with info just said "...40' up..." Then somebody throws out that the linebacker is the crux (which could be, it is a 5.7 move).
That seems like an odd place to deck as u can get super easy bomber gear in that flake making for like a 1-2 foot fall. I was thinking more likely the traverse to the flake as an entry level climber could struggle with gear getting to the traverse, then there is none on the traverse till u get to the well protected lieback..
Guess it's not that important, just curious.
Again, heal up!
EDIT
in my GoPro (previous page) vid you can see that the lieback flake will just eat gear
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Bad Climber
climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 08:50am PT
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Yeah, it always seemed I got bomber gear in that crack, but then again, I've never fallen on the route and done it many, many times over the last 35 years. It was the first route I did there when I was 15 back in--gulp--'77.
How did that happen?
Glad the lad is going to be okay. Could have easily been a lot worse.
BAd
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Yeah, I think it's more likely he fell on the traverse before the lieback.
The gear getting to the traverse can be difficult for new leaders.
40'? It could be a little less. Bet that drop hurt.
Bummer for the injured.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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as long as we are in the idle speculation mode, here is what it looks like around there. The climbing where there is no gear is really easy. If you fell toward the end of that rising leftward traverse, you probably would not pull the low gear. If they fell part way up the unprotected section then the lower gear could be pulled. It might not be a 40' fall in that case, but it would be a plenty-long fall just the same!
When someone hears how the fallen climber is doing please post up! Best wishes.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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OW. Glad he will recover.
I've been in situations dozens of times that could have ended up that way.
@Ron - John 8:7.....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 10, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
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Good.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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Seems this happens a lot in the same spot...
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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i thought the MO here was to fix perfectly good gear on the route and leave it behind. you could weld a few cheapo nuts into place and it would have an au natural look, no?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
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squishy,
You know of other accidents on BR?
The Line ears a few people most years, but BR??? I'm only aware of a few problems on pitch 3 pulling the little roof (protect with cams, not nuts. The nuts ALWAYS lift out there).
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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Oh yeah, the first belay. I think a few have taken a dive off that ledge.
Bummer.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Sep 10, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Fact: There were a lot less people climbing at the Leap in 1978
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
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Lucky gumbie. Just more evidence that we need to hurry up and grid bolt east wall.
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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Not spraying
maybe you're not spraying but you sure do post that video up every chance you get...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
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lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
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lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
Yep, don't go there. Nothing worthwhile.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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zacly
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 10:19pm PT
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I'm going to support Ron on this one point- the craft is IMPORTANT. I don't care how many people are climbing these days. I know my nutcraft but still defer to cams. You better believe that I runner those cams so that they don't walk in the tapers and flares common to the Leap.
If I can factor one/half onto a purple C3, or a micro brassy, then there is no excuse for ripping medium sized gear that should be bomber, and at a smaller fall factor to boot. The gear these days is fukking amazing if you use it right.
Here's to a speedy recovery for the injured, and a profound new relationship with his or her craft from here on out.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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We had a few like that in the Wasnatch... most notably Satan's Corner... a classic 5.8+... I think that is about Tahoe 5.11. Killed more than one novice climber. I still remember the blood stained rock at the base back in the mid-90s. Tragic.
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rnevius
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:18am PT
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Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with a "reach" either...but YMMV? The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:10am PT
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I agree with Roger as well. I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.
When I ran SAR out here for the NPS, I was on a number of rescues that resulted in severe injuries and deaths due to things like ripped gear, getting way off route, rap accidents, belay accidents etc.
Couple these factors with huge number of climbers and it's no surprise people are getting hurt all the time.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 11, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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Monday should have a permanent thread for posting the latest accident at Lovers Leap.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
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Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
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Rick Linkert
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro. When I came out of retirement a while back, there were deaths right after my partner did The Line, Farley and Traveler's - blew our minds. I then saw a leader rip almost everythin as she neared us at the SB first pitch of Serenity. I turned away as it looked like she was going to hit. A nit filally held. We rapped to assist and the nut came out with a flip - no idea why it held. These accidents are completely unavoidable and appear to all be rated to last of experience placing pro. All new climbers should spend an apprenticeship following a master leader. Much too be learns from cleanind. Finally, many flakes at the Leap flex- always go for the solid corners and not the inviting flakes
This climber was very fortunate and his family and friends avoided much heartache
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Heal well, ^^?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.
RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.
word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?
Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.
I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 11, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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I agree with DMT...
But, there is a bit of comfort to be had in the pure predictability of it all.
I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 11, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
lol
I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
eh... more fun to rampantly speculate.
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Someone falls and the ST genius's have it all figured out before there's been any report. Damn gym climbers.., rotten Leap rock.. - what the hell is that matter with you folks?
The Leap is excellent granite. Yes, newbies flock there and some fall, as well as more experienced folks at times, same as Yosemite. Did you ever have a close call when you stonemaster's were learning BITD?
Have a little compassion - hoping for a speedy recovery.
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Stonewalker
Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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[photoid=320730]
Lake Valley fire was on scene. The fallen climber had severe bruising on ribs. Suspected a possible punctured lung. The climber was Jason from south Lake Tahoe. Later that night he was discharged with bruised ribs. Lake Valley was the crew that recovered Dan and I off of Craven Image and also the lady that fell on Surrelaistic Pillar. They are amazing at what they do.
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Stonewalker
Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.
This place has an rc.com element to it....
DMT
Wrong. Distance has nothing to do with it. This problem exists everywhere. The number of people I see climbing out here who can't even belay is disturbing to say the least.
[Edit]
Turning a blind eye on the problem does not make it go away.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Sep 11, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm inconfident in my gear placement, that's why I stick to sport and bouldering. Lol.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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Wow Ron that seems like a big undertaking , you should consider putting a limit on the number of students that can enroll in the class , like 8 maybe .
I took an intro-to-rock-climbing class at Fullerton Junior College back in the day, it was held at the local gym . I loved it and was hooked . Wish we could have gotten outside to real rock though .
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mjb
Trad climber
Point Pleasant, NJ
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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for the youngsters that are looking for colleges with real rock nearby
http://blogs.fortlewis.edu/adventureeducation/?tag=rock-climb
Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO has had a rock climbing class since at least 1974 and the class takes place on real rock, at the x-rock area in town.
Glad to hear that the accident was only bruised ribs.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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Stonewalker-
What happened on Craven Image?
Great route, but a tricky path to follow.
There is a 5.7X pitch that suckers people into, until it's too late!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Sep 13, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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Lake Tahoe Community College (LTCC) has a rock climbing class for beginners, intermediates, leading and self rescue. That's how I got started (sort of).
RON,
Let me know if you need an assistant instructor for the WNC class if/when they get back to you. That way, you could accommodate more than 8 people.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 13, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey Ron if the class thing comes to fruition,(Insurance will probably be the sticking point) you might want to give Pat Mathews a call. Or even Rocco they both have experience with the problems of teaching climbing out of colleges and university's. Might have some insight on getting around the red tape. Where does Clear Creek actual sit is it on Indian Land? That might be another consideration.
Of course if your students can climb 5.11 in the gym they don't need to learn how to place no stinkin' gear.... Could be natural selection at least we were smart enough to go slow and learn nutcraft, they didn't have any stinkin' cams back then, or maybe we were lucky.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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Mark
Its on Tribal Land.....memer we almost got arrested there that one cold snowy night a couple years ago for trespassing. At least I almost did for talking to the tribal police.
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
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Hmmmmmm interesting Ron as the tribal police tried to arrest me for trespassing there several years ago.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 14, 2013 - 09:56am PT
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Shawn, "I was there, you were there, do you remember?", I have been harassed there a few times over the years and then other times they just drive on by?
Hey Ron maybe we can take up a collection and buy the Indian police a map.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Mark
Thats a great idea....part of the gear check list for Dino . Map for the tribal police with a big FU circled around Dino........
That LEO was one of the biggest pricks I have ever dealt with....
Sorry for the thread heist...hope the injured party at lovers is doing ok
Shawn
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 15, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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Another accident thread turning into Ron's BITD spraying.
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Deekaid
climber
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Sep 15, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
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you do spray pretty good...some of it is interesting though so have at.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Sep 15, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Jebus- I don't think they were saying much about the gym climbers' ability to "crank on rock"... rather proper use of gear while cranking.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Sep 16, 2013 - 12:16am PT
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Ok, admittedly I've been imbibing this eve.......but,
That video of some homie soloing Bears Reach ranks high on the lamest, weakest, most corny pathetic use of videography I've ever seen. Who gives a flying f*#k? and if you did who would record it? Oh and the sound track was as worthless as I can imagine.
Every time I think that ST might actually be of some value, some f*#king rubbish pops up that reminds me that I need to switch off and go wank off my dog or something more worthwhile.
If your going to post this sh#t at least fall or something to make it a worthwhile endeavor to view.
So long
a
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Sep 16, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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True. I was just making a clarification. But you are right. Threads gone silly.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 16, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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TheTye, I don't care what some guys who don't get it done anymore think about gear they aren't out there to see. This is far flung banter on a thread already disconnected from any real conversation about what happened anyway.
Urs is the banter! Jeeezzzz jebusted
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