Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday

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Snowmonkey

Ice climber
San Carlos, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
There was a climbing accident on Lover's Leap on Sunday, around 11am. We have observed a fire and rescue team loading an injured person onto a litter at the base of Main Wall, just left of The Line. A CHP chopper hovered close to the wall and to the ground and winched the litter onboard. If anyone knows what happened please post the details so that the rest of us could learn and hopefully avoid (pulled gear? broken hold?)

With that, wishing the speedy recovery and better luck to the injured party.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
damn, climbed bears reach that morning very early and saw the ambulance pulling in as a i left strawberry around 12 but i don't know anything. best wishes to those involved.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
I pulled some gear from BR this morning. If any of it belongs to the injured, I'd like to return it.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 9, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
FYI Snowmonkey, left of the Line would be the EAST WALL, not the Main Wall...

Not being a smartass, just clarifying...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
hey there say, all... prayers and well wishes for all those involved...

thanks for sharing...
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Word is that a guy decked on Bear's Reach from 40' up on the first pitch. He was pulling on a flake after the 5.6 runout and pulled two of his three pieces. He landed on the flat, sandy area and not the surrounding talus. Climbers on Scimitar had a cell phone and called 911. Apparently, he may just end up with broken ribs and a bumped noggin. His belayer also got smacked in the head by a cam that ripped. Neither were wearing helmets.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
Ouch,
glad he's gunna be alright.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
Lucky.

Speedy recovery.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
the little layback move to the top of that little corner might be the crux of the climb. Sounds like they got pretty lucky. That is a long way to deck from.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
I know that exact move and agree that's probably the routes crux.
The entire route has tricky pro and is not exactly a beginners 5.7 imho. Not saying they were beginners, but 2 pieces did rip and there is reasonably good pro to be had on that first section.
Lucky guy if no helmet.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
climber goes up climber falls, gear fails. Well thats new....



Good luck for a full recovery to the climber, and may he learn some NUT CRAFT instead of plug and go bullsheet.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
Ron, both a stopper and a cam blew. I think it's just the "craft" in general that needs some work.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
In order to appease Ron everyone needs to do this route in hob-nailed boots with a clothesline like he did back in '49.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 9, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
ohhwwcmon now.. EBs will be fine...

Now having watched a few climbers recently, as they plugged and went, the little runners, mostly draws that they were using did not allow freedom of rope movement without affecting each and every piece they were placing ( all cams). As they climbed the rope movement had each placement moving and walking. Some were OBVIOUSLY over cammed, and others under cammed. I shook my head looking at the accident in the waiting ..My "advice" to them was met with a low grunt and a turned shoulder. I didnt try to reiterate anything.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
i agree, that little layback section after the traverse left on dikes is probably the crux of that climb. sorry to hear about the injured, but it sounds like they got pretty lucky, all things considered. here's to a speedy recovery.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
all best to all involved.

Yea, that move was the only one on my first trip up the BR that made me stop and try a few uneasy moves to gain that little ledge. super slick feet.

We might be up there Sunday. Hope it's not smokey
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Here's the route
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
As if climbing videos shot on GoPro's weren't dizzying enough, now we have a speed spraying..err soloing video.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Not spraying
Hoping somebody could comment where it ACTUALLY happened.
And that wasn't that fast so get over it.
This vid has been on STopo for over a year.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 10, 2013 - 02:46am PT
at 1:04, jay.
the slick spot mentioned up thread.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:40am PT
Bummer for the climbing team.
I hope they both have a full and speedy recovery.

Weeg, that lie back move is the actual spot?
I ask because the first person with info just said "...40' up..." Then somebody throws out that the linebacker is the crux (which could be, it is a 5.7 move).

That seems like an odd place to deck as u can get super easy bomber gear in that flake making for like a 1-2 foot fall. I was thinking more likely the traverse to the flake as an entry level climber could struggle with gear getting to the traverse, then there is none on the traverse till u get to the well protected lieback..

Guess it's not that important, just curious.

Again, heal up!


EDIT
in my GoPro (previous page) vid you can see that the lieback flake will just eat gear
Bad Climber

climber
Sep 10, 2013 - 05:50am PT
Yeah, it always seemed I got bomber gear in that crack, but then again, I've never fallen on the route and done it many, many times over the last 35 years. It was the first route I did there when I was 15 back in--gulp--'77.

How did that happen?

Glad the lad is going to be okay. Could have easily been a lot worse.

BAd
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:24am PT
Yeah, I think it's more likely he fell on the traverse before the lieback.
The gear getting to the traverse can be difficult for new leaders.
40'? It could be a little less. Bet that drop hurt.

Bummer for the injured.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:16am PT
as long as we are in the idle speculation mode, here is what it looks like around there. The climbing where there is no gear is really easy. If you fell toward the end of that rising leftward traverse, you probably would not pull the low gear. If they fell part way up the unprotected section then the lower gear could be pulled. It might not be a 40' fall in that case, but it would be a plenty-long fall just the same!

When someone hears how the fallen climber is doing please post up! Best wishes.

start of Bear's Reach. Scale assumes that the climber on the ground is...
start of Bear's Reach. Scale assumes that the climber on the ground is around 6 feet tall.
Credit: Mike Bolte
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:37am PT
OW. Glad he will recover.

I've been in situations dozens of times that could have ended up that way.

@Ron - John 8:7.....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:44am PT
yur right G,, my bad for having concern. Not my place to deal out criticism in an effort to help.


Ill just say "prayers for recovery" from now on.. Copy/paste, done.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 10, 2013 - 09:49am PT
Good.
squishy

Mountain climber
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:05am PT
Seems this happens a lot in the same spot...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:08am PT
worry knott. Ill take a pry-bar, bosch and about 21 bolts and make that the safest pleasure cruise evah..Weve got to MAKE OUR SPORT SAFE dammit! No one owns the route anyhoo eh!!!!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:18am PT
i thought the MO here was to fix perfectly good gear on the route and leave it behind. you could weld a few cheapo nuts into place and it would have an au natural look, no?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:25am PT
squishy,
You know of other accidents on BR?

The Line ears a few people most years, but BR??? I'm only aware of a few problems on pitch 3 pulling the little roof (protect with cams, not nuts. The nuts ALWAYS lift out there).
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
There was a fatality on Bear's Reach recently ( within the last 3-4 years ).

Here's the thread ...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1233535&tn=0&mr=0

Some sort of college climbing group pulled the first belay ...

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Oh yeah, the first belay. I think a few have taken a dive off that ledge.
Bummer.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Anyone remember the BIG RED SMILE near the line BITD?

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
I remember the cackling accident harpy who couldn't stop serial posting on Supertopo, but not the red smile.

Best wishes to the fallen in your recovery. Accidents happen even to the best, so take your lessons and move on! Glad it sounds like you had good fortune.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Fact: these accidents are now common throughout the season.

Fact: they were NOT common in 1978 for instance.

Fact: go to youtube and you can find many vids showing the gear just popping out one after the other.



I firmly believe that this is due much to the reliance upon cams, marginally placed in a hurry, and slung far to short not to have rope affect of the placements, as well as a lack of NUT craft. So if i harp on that it is only through 39 yrs of falling on gear that only failed once when i was falling on a cam, repeatedly..

Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Both nuts and cams have their drawbacks and strengths. Citing made up statistics from your heyday doesn't really mean much either now when there are far more numbers of climbers and the well-deserved popularity of Mr. Jardine's invention is not likely to abate.

You can happily rule the post count on this thread though, I don't have that desire. I'm just noting your seeming fascination with poking at the Leap's fallen. Last time with that poor head trauma victim on Surrealistic saw you deleting reams of posts...
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:36pm PT

Fact: these accidents are now common throughout the season.

Fact: they were NOT common in 1978 for instance.

Fact: go to youtube and you can find many vids showing the gear just popping out one after the other.



I firmly believe that this is due much to the reliance upon cams, marginally placed in a hurry, and slung far to short not to have rope affect of the placements, as well as a lack of NUT craft. So if i harp on that it is only through 39 yrs of falling on gear that only failed once when i was falling on a cam, repeatedly..

Ron, do you not realize that things have changed since '78?

We now have the internet, which enables us to be able to communicate outside of our closest geographic area and communicate things that are happening. This leads to the spread of information and, wait for it, greater awareness of things that have happened that back in ye olde days might not have ever been heard of.

Additionally, the shear volume of people climbing these days - even if you exclude sportos and plastic pullers, is orders of magnitude higher.

Accidents always have happened in climbing and always will, they are an unfortunate part of the game that we love to play, but we also often tend to play because of the focus that having all of the chips on the table gives us.

Gloating about how this would have never happened back in ye olde day is nonsensical conjecture and pure bullshet babble.

New fangled cams are not at fault, improper use of gear most likely is (unless rock blew out), which is what I can seem to gather from some of your dialogue. To that effect, we don't have all of the details of the story other than what is posted up-thread (and if you opted to read, a nut was in fact part of what blew).



Hope the injured heals quickly and learns from the accident.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Sep 10, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
Fact: There were a lot less people climbing at the Leap in 1978
Baggins

Boulder climber
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Lucky gumbie. Just more evidence that we need to hurry up and grid bolt east wall.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
even per capita. accidents the like today were hardly ever seen.

And WML YES i full realize things have changed. Now most climbers are involved with gyms to start then onto sport routes and THEN maybe "trad".

I believe that whole scenario to be backwards from the 1970s for instance, would be my point here..
There was no sport routes, and "bolted routes meant one maybe two, somewhere. So we learned NUT CRAFT to a high degree of efficiency. Nut craft INCLUDES runners, especially on cams. I see FEW climbing pics these days where cams are sufficiently runnered to prevent rope effect. I see hardly any directional control anchors placed to reduce rope effects. Jus sayin..
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
At least you clarified you see few pics of runnered cams. We would all have known you were lying if you said you actually saw people out climbing ;).

It's too bad the older generation has let us down so awfully.
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Not spraying

maybe you're not spraying but you sure do post that video up every chance you get...

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
lover's leap is a teetering pile of choss. with all the noobs that go there and pull on the obviously loose flakes that should have been trundled on the FA, it is surprising this doesn't happen more often.

Yep, don't go there. Nothing worthwhile.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
zacly
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
I'm going to support Ron on this one point- the craft is IMPORTANT. I don't care how many people are climbing these days. I know my nutcraft but still defer to cams. You better believe that I runner those cams so that they don't walk in the tapers and flares common to the Leap.

If I can factor one/half onto a purple C3, or a micro brassy, then there is no excuse for ripping medium sized gear that should be bomber, and at a smaller fall factor to boot. The gear these days is fukking amazing if you use it right.

Here's to a speedy recovery for the injured, and a profound new relationship with his or her craft from here on out.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
I gotta agree that using your gear correctly is a big deal, I don't think anybody is arguing that. Inferring what happened in this case based on limited evidence and leaping to an indictment of all modern climbers for their "NUTCRAFT" is another thing entirely.

Like it or not, The Leap is a high flow area for relatively inexperienced climbers nowadays. That climb in particular. Considering how many 1000's more ascents that thing sees than in 1978 coupled with the skill level of those getting on it.... Props to all those keeping it together!

My personal thoughts on why people get hurt on some of the climbs in that area is there are some gear issues (The Line with the first placement; Bears Reach we've just discussed; and, Farley with maybe new leaders to the grade placing gear on a demanding lieback) coupled with a bit of climbing difficulty at those same points. These climbs all seem like part of the progression for new leaders, but none of them are of the sewed up variety and they catch these unfortunate few where they are lacking.

Then we get to hear how "dangerous" these climbs are. Wash, rinse, repeat. Oh well.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Sep 10, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
We had a few like that in the Wasnatch... most notably Satan's Corner... a classic 5.8+... I think that is about Tahoe 5.11. Killed more than one novice climber. I still remember the blood stained rock at the base back in the mid-90s. Tragic.
Burch3y

Mountain climber
San Diego
Sep 10, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
Fact: Worst part of this whole thing is the audio in that video...Nickelback?

Christ.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
Tricky pro?

Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with tricky pro.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
Bear's Reach never struck me as a route with a "reach" either...but YMMV? The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 10, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
The route eats pro, if you have any level of experience placing pro.


Apparently the phrase "any level" doesn't mean "any level". Or maybe your use of the term "pro" also covers the psychological, i.e. not good, variety?

Yeah, super simple climb for us. Not for them. Covered.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:10am PT
I agree with Roger as well. I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

When I ran SAR out here for the NPS, I was on a number of rescues that resulted in severe injuries and deaths due to things like ripped gear, getting way off route, rap accidents, belay accidents etc.

Couple these factors with huge number of climbers and it's no surprise people are getting hurt all the time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:20am PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an rc.com element to it....

DMT
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:55am PT
^^^^^no shit^^^^
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Monday should have a permanent thread for posting the latest accident at Lovers Leap.
WTF

climber
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:07am PT
Jim they should also how much booty did you score at the leap this weekend thread.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:21am PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
Rick Linkert

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:24am PT
Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro. When I came out of retirement a while back, there were deaths right after my partner did The Line, Farley and Traveler's - blew our minds. I then saw a leader rip almost everythin as she neared us at the SB first pitch of Serenity. I turned away as it looked like she was going to hit. A nit filally held. We rapped to assist and the nut came out with a flip - no idea why it held. These accidents are completely unavoidable and appear to all be rated to last of experience placing pro. All new climbers should spend an apprenticeship following a master leader. Much too be learns from cleanind. Finally, many flakes at the Leap flex- always go for the solid corners and not the inviting flakes

This climber was very fortunate and his family and friends avoided much heartache
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:28am PT
Heal well, ^^?
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:45am PT
Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.

RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.

word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?

Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.

I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 11, 2013 - 08:17am PT
I agree with DMT...

But, there is a bit of comfort to be had in the pure predictability of it all.

I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Combine them and call it booty and bodies.

lol

I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.


eh... more fun to rampantly speculate.
crankster

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Someone falls and the ST genius's have it all figured out before there's been any report. Damn gym climbers.., rotten Leap rock.. - what the hell is that matter with you folks?

The Leap is excellent granite. Yes, newbies flock there and some fall, as well as more experienced folks at times, same as Yosemite. Did you ever have a close call when you stonemaster's were learning BITD?

Have a little compassion - hoping for a speedy recovery.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:32am PT
JD,, im on-board... Booty and bodies,, week of ~~~~~ !!!!!


Stonewalker

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:56am PT
[photo
The rotors and the wall.
The rotors and the wall.
Credit: Stonewalker
id=320730]

Lake Valley fire was on scene. The fallen climber had severe bruising on ribs. Suspected a possible punctured lung. The climber was Jason from south Lake Tahoe. Later that night he was discharged with bruised ribs. Lake Valley was the crew that recovered Dan and I off of Craven Image and also the lady that fell on Surrelaistic Pillar. They are amazing at what they do.
Stonewalker

Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:57am PT
CHP hoisting injured climber.
CHP hoisting injured climber.
Credit: Stonewalker
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:20am PT
Cool pics,, and Good to hear it only bruised ribs.


Have jason give me a call. Ill meet him at Clear creek for some pro -placement exercises. Advanced nutcraft/camcraft as it were.

rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Sep 11, 2013 - 11:35am PT
Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.

This place has an rc.com element to it....

DMT

Wrong. Distance has nothing to do with it. This problem exists everywhere. The number of people I see climbing out here who can't even belay is disturbing to say the least.

[Edit]

Turning a blind eye on the problem does not make it go away.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Kinda funny that DMT criticizes an attempt to educate the younger climbers when hes always talking about how we should educate the young climbers and not just tell them this or that.

My local lil crag now sees at least two serious accidents per summer. This is kind of alarming to me. Lots of work went into making the routes rather safe and protectable yet accidents are piling up there.

Sooo, in an effort to educate, im currently waiting on a call back from the western NV community college ( community education dept)about teaching a class on climbing. I may live to regret this, or not. Someone put this bug in my ear a while back. But im willing to giver a good try. They will learn trad first, sport second..


michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 11, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
I'm inconfident in my gear placement, that's why I stick to sport and bouldering. Lol.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
Wow Ron that seems like a big undertaking , you should consider putting a limit on the number of students that can enroll in the class , like 8 maybe .

I took an intro-to-rock-climbing class at Fullerton Junior College back in the day, it was held at the local gym . I loved it and was hooked . Wish we could have gotten outside to real rock though .
mjb

Trad climber
Point Pleasant, NJ
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:13am PT
for the youngsters that are looking for colleges with real rock nearby

http://blogs.fortlewis.edu/adventureeducation/?tag=rock-climb

Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO has had a rock climbing class since at least 1974 and the class takes place on real rock, at the x-rock area in town.

Glad to hear that the accident was only bruised ribs.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 12, 2013 - 09:44am PT
Stonewalker-

What happened on Craven Image?

Great route, but a tricky path to follow.

There is a 5.7X pitch that suckers people into, until it's too late!
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Nathan Smith does a great job with his climbing and rescue courses up at the U...

http://continue.utah.edu/noncredit/classes?cat=rec&show=50
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 13, 2013 - 11:59am PT
Lake Tahoe Community College (LTCC) has a rock climbing class for beginners, intermediates, leading and self rescue. That's how I got started (sort of).

RON,
Let me know if you need an assistant instructor for the WNC class if/when they get back to you. That way, you could accommodate more than 8 people.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 13, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Hey Ron if the class thing comes to fruition,(Insurance will probably be the sticking point) you might want to give Pat Mathews a call. Or even Rocco they both have experience with the problems of teaching climbing out of colleges and university's. Might have some insight on getting around the red tape. Where does Clear Creek actual sit is it on Indian Land? That might be another consideration.
Of course if your students can climb 5.11 in the gym they don't need to learn how to place no stinkin' gear.... Could be natural selection at least we were smart enough to go slow and learn nutcraft, they didn't have any stinkin' cams back then, or maybe we were lucky.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 13, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Mark
Its on Tribal Land.....memer we almost got arrested there that one cold snowy night a couple years ago for trespassing. At least I almost did for talking to the tribal police.
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 13, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Shawn, Mark,, you can go to this site:http://www.douglascountynv.gov/DocumentCenter/Home/View/952


and look at map 3.3 which is the washoe tribes lower Clear creek acreage. Dino is on BLM lands...
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 13, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Hmmmmmm interesting Ron as the tribal police tried to arrest me for trespassing there several years ago.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 13, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
Yeah those RUBES TRY to pull all manner of stuff lol! They have water rights and a diversion house thats part of the stewart water system, but very little actual lands in clear creek. Their upper property is even less.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 14, 2013 - 06:56am PT
Shawn, "I was there, you were there, do you remember?", I have been harassed there a few times over the years and then other times they just drive on by?
Hey Ron maybe we can take up a collection and buy the Indian police a map.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 14, 2013 - 08:02am PT
Mark
Thats a great idea....part of the gear check list for Dino . Map for the tribal police with a big FU circled around Dino........
That LEO was one of the biggest pricks I have ever dealt with....

Sorry for the thread heist...hope the injured party at lovers is doing ok
Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 14, 2013 - 08:09am PT
they tried the same thing with me years ago. I worked for BLM at the time lol.. Told them they did not own the rock and that i would have CC sheriffs come up and explain it to them..They muttered as they went away.. The county has all the land deed records for the tribe too.. All in all they were as bad as Fred Dressler thinking he owned the entire alpine county lol!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 14, 2013 - 09:26am PT
The gym climbers that will get your goat are the ones who crank hard on plastic... and on rock! Bold leads and solos by the younger generation.

Course, many complaining here about the new generation are completely out of touch with the current climbing scene anyway.

I guess the young guys and gals will start gloating 20 years down the line when they have time.
crankster

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:38am PT
Another accident thread turning into Ron's BITD spraying.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:40am PT
guess you cant read Crank,, its another thread where Ron comes up with an answer about land ownership, in an effort to HELP local climbers. Imagine that.
Deekaid

climber
Sep 15, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
you do spray pretty good...some of it is interesting though so have at.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 15, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Please define this term"spray" to me. Or just copy and paste any remark ive made here in this thread that would define "spray"..

Spray and SEND,, both odd uses of vocabulary..
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Sep 15, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
Jebus- I don't think they were saying much about the gym climbers' ability to "crank on rock"... rather proper use of gear while cranking.
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Ok, admittedly I've been imbibing this eve.......but,
That video of some homie soloing Bears Reach ranks high on the lamest, weakest, most corny pathetic use of videography I've ever seen. Who gives a flying f*#k? and if you did who would record it? Oh and the sound track was as worthless as I can imagine.
Every time I think that ST might actually be of some value, some f*#king rubbish pops up that reminds me that I need to switch off and go wank off my dog or something more worthwhile.
If your going to post this sh#t at least fall or something to make it a worthwhile endeavor to view.
So long

a
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 15, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
TheTye, I don't care what some guys who don't get it done anymore think about gear they aren't out there to see. This is far flung banter on a thread already disconnected from any real conversation about what happened anyway.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
True. I was just making a clarification. But you are right. Threads gone silly.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
Many have gone that route, it's true.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:43pm PT

TheTye, I don't care what some guys who don't get it done anymore think about gear they aren't out there to see. This is far flung banter on a thread already disconnected from any real conversation about what happened anyway.

Urs is the banter! Jeeezzzz jebusted
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 15, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
I dont know,, showing the parcel maps of the washoe property in clear creek seemed fairly un silly since it had been brought up..

Aidens rant on the other hand, is well, liquor fueled. Dont know why everyone is so down with the Bears reach solo deal. Kinda reminded me of an old Friend. Long ago.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 16, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
No, urs!
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