What is the essence of sport climbing? :)

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Messages 101 - 103 of total 103 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
steve shea

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 11:46am PT
I think the big deal, if there is one, is about personal values. When one is dissed over one's values things can get contentious. People get testy. So go try another way, get exposed and see what all the hype is about. The naysayers might like it. I think the goal is to get to the top, get some satisfaction and go home in one piece.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Sep 7, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
When sport climbing norms are transported to this realm, we get bolted belays in places where gear would work perfectly well

Although this sometimes the case, often the pro is so thin on these nu-trad pieces that the belay pro is no better than the thin, run out pro on the route. I am not surprised that a minimum level of protection is allowed to prevent the ground fall deaths of both climber and belayer in the event of a fall that pull all the pieces.

In any case, the 'leader must not fall' paradigm has been deemed impractical to those pushing the limits of low-probability moves on marginal pro. Falling and working moves is inevitable at this level.

So, I would argue that if hard trad isn't worked with these tactics, then it wouldn't exist.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
^^Agreed...although some sport climbing could also benefit many trad climbers!!!
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