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Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Bailers!!!!!!! My lil sh#t partner bailed for legitimate reasons. Going off to OSU the next weekend for school.

I need a partner that's willing to go suffer for at least 24 hours on this push. Maybe less but I will not guarantee it!!!!


Briham, only weekdays?


It's gonna be a bitch to solo. Come on gents. (Or ladies)

Arrive fri night the 13
Start early on 14th
Top out and drive home sometime before Sunday at midnight.

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 30, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
Post it up or try Rock & Ice. They are always dying for submitted articles, and can edit any writing.

Climbing has changed, though. There are zillions of sport climbers and just climbers in general. An aid route isn't very with it these days, but R&I loves a good story if you can make it funny as hell.

They printed a story about Walt less than a year ago. It was super good, and caught the flavor of the time.

Here we are still talking about Walt. Why was Walt such a character?

As for bathooks around a missing feature, fill em with steel.

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Bump for partner.

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 09:28am PT
And one for whitemeat and his buddy who blasted on a NIAD attempt at 4 this morning!

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Aug 31, 2013 - 11:05am PT
when I climbed this in 2005. there was a rumor of a missing feature on pitch 4
There were no bathook holes then...but there was a place where a feature had pulled off. A big ass reach in top loops solved it...looks like somebody took it upon themselves to fix that route.
on Genesis I was nailing a short corner...the second pitch off off El Cap tower after the expanding traverse. I came to a pretty committing move on a natural hook and found that I had missed 3 bathook holes in a row, These looked new and were made with a 3/8 drill....probably put in on a winter ascent the season before and not on the topo. That would have been a good pitch.
When I started if you got busted impoving routes you would be slandered by your peers so bad that your rep would be shot and nobody would talk to you anymore....and fear of that made me a better climber
Most of my adult life has carved out of experiences on those stones...good and bad and Im glad to have had the opportunity to get after it when the drill stayed off the rack.

Just sayin.......
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Aug 31, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Hey jcory, that sounds fun but I want to do a few more outings in Sierra before summer season ends. Was away most of the summer and miss the peaks here. Plus that 24+ hour push thing does not match my mood now. I had that last weekend (solo of evolution traverse car to car) and am more excited about bird-watching and eating good food. :)

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 31, 2013 - 05:19pm PT

Yeah, that has always been the deal. Drilling on established routes is good for decades of slander. I'm just saying that if a flake did fall off, then the only thing to do is to put in some rivets. On most routes you can bail, leaving fixed ropes if you can, and talk it over with everyone, particularly the FA'ist in a perfect world.

I'm just saying that if you have to drill, put in some metal.

Practically every route on El Cap has had chicken bolts added. Have you seen that old chopped bolt on Boot Flake? I've heard who placed it, and was really surprised. I won't post the name because I don't know.

There has always been a camp of no alteration to the rock, and then the other camp who thinks that artful carving is OK.

Walling probably did the best thing. On one of his attempts to do the 2nd ascent of Born Under A Bad Sign, he missed some bathooks and found himself doing some nailing that was total psycho. So he placed a rivet and finished the pitch. At that point he bailed, and chopped the rivet on the way down. That is the real way to do it.

Aid climbing has some hard rules to enforce, and I have a bud that was forced to drill on a route. They bailed, but he had put in bathook holes, or little doctored dimples or whatever.

That was about thirty years ago, and he has taken a ton of sh#t over it. I asked him what he would have done now that he is all grown up, he said he would have down hooked it to the point that he could and then have just taken the fall.

I guess that most people just drill and don't tell anyone. Russ's solution should have been more widely known. It is the only correct way to get off of a pitch that is too hard. Russ saw the bathook holes as he was rapping the pitch, so he came back again and did it with them.

Remember when rivets were really rivets? Bridwell's idea was to put in dowels that wouldn't catch a fall, because a bolt would make the pitch safer, fall wise.

I'm an old guy, but I see pics of old rivet ladders that have been replaced with 3/8" fat bolts. Boy does that change the difficulty. Nowadays a 1/4" buttonhead is a "rivet." They used to be belay anchors. Man, I remember a belay with a whole bunch of big copperheads tied together with a single quarter incher. I was pretty glad when my buddy reached a bolt on the next pitch.

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Aug 31, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Great post Base104, wish more were like it.

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Aug 31, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Man I wish I could join you. I'm guiding that weekend.

Edit: that's crazy V. Can't wait to hear about it.

Trad climber
under the sea
Sep 1, 2013 - 12:14am PT
I may be free to climb that weekend. I'll check and get back with you.

Congrats Vit!!! Can't wait for the story.


Edit: word on whitemeat? Nose is on the short list but all my partners at the moment don't quite have enough experience to try it IAD and that's how I seem to be set on doin it.

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 1, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Erik Sloan is currently the most guilty person of drilling bolts on other people's established Bigwall routes, and doing so illegally with a power drill. When asked about what he has done where he either shrugs it off or downright lies about it.

Yet he is the one employed by YCA, not the NPS, to be the spokesperson at the bridge at El Cap to inform tourists about what climbers do under the "ask a climber" program.

No one else finds this strange? or wrong?

Rewind 20 years ago: Climbers had respect for what others had climbed, at least with wall climbing, sport was a different story. Just like what Base said above if you merely drilled a bathook hole or rivet on an established route you would be shamed enough to never show your face at the Deli again for at least a year. Even after that people would question your future plans and comment wether you were qualified to actually climb the route of your ambitions.

NOW Climbers want the least common denominator. Easy-Piecey seems to be the accepted attitude. Sara Palin would be proud of you guys, "Drill Baby Drill!"

Replacing Wall anchors like what Mark Hudon has been doing the last few years is an admirable and respectful way of replacing bolts.

What Erik Sloan does is entirely offensive to people like Steve Grossman who would like to see routes retain at least a resemblance of what they once were the day they climbed it.

Sloan, if you want to climb safe routes there are plenty there for your enjoyment. Do you really have to climb routes that are too hard for you and power drill all over them so you can ask us to approve of it on your website?

It's disgusting what a desecration this guy does. And he does it with ASCA funds.

Please boycott ASCA

Tell them to no longer supply Erik Sloan with the bolts he illegally places with a power drill on established Yosemite Big Walls.

Eric Kohl


Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Sep 1, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
As per a post from Clint Cummins on the "New Bolts on the Nose" thread, Sloan isn't associated with ASCA anymore so a boycott would seem an inefficient use of time at best.

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Matty- let me know. Also, no word on whitemeat. Hopefully he and partner made it okay on their NIAD attempt. Webcams and Instagram showed the valley to be a smoky mess.

As far as drilling on established routes. Seems like if a feature has fallen off or the anchor bolts are sketchy then thoughtful placement or replacement respectively would be ok. If an old rivet ladder is full of rivet about to fall out what is the norm?

I don't even own a drill. And I don't hammer often cause its a bitch/slow to pull hammered pins. So there will be no beezy drilling on re-animator. Ill do what I can to remove crap fixed gear too.

Thanks for the post klaus.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 1, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
Seems like if a feature has fallen off or the anchor bolts are sketchy then thoughtful placement or replacement respectively would be ok.

LOL Not at all ok if you want to climb one of Klaus' routes. He would make anchors from a rivet, equalized to a body weight placement behind an expando-flake (semi-joking).

I was looking through beta for 'Jesus Built My Hotrod' once and had a good laugh:
Mr. Klaus should post more often, I like his sense of humor.

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 2, 2013 - 12:25am PT
My bad, I didn't know he's no longer supplied by ASCA.

Someone should go to the bridge and break his trigger fingers then, might have to do it myself.

Sep 2, 2013 - 12:40am PT
I climbed Jesus with sloan in 94. We didnt even
carry a bolt kit. It was our 4th wall, why would ya
own a bolt kit?
We had fun, thnx to all the drill work you
did putting up the route.
We were "powered" by vodka on the last
day because we ran out of water.
The claim that sloan is "bad" cause he may
have used a power drill is pretty funny. Since
when did folks here decide to follow thr
gundernent rules?

Klaus ever put up a valley wall with no drilling?
and no bolt kit?
I have.

If anyone wants to add bolts to any of my routes
be my guest. I got better things to complain
about-like why add dill and caraway to akvavit?

valley climbers should do better-it is clear klaus
and sloan love the valley. better to save the
bitterness for something real-nah better to throw
vileness at someone youve known for 20 years
than to share some akvavit (minus the dill and caraway)

carry on

bolts suck-if you have ever placed a bolt your
a butterfly


Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Sep 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Bump for TR. How did it go up there?

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 06:50pm PT

I hadn't been able to find a partner that wanted to join me so I called up my "one-wall-a-year" buddy (who's one wall was already in the books for 2013) and asked what he was up to...He informed me that he wanted to do a quick trip up thunderbolt peak. So...we did thunderbolt in 29 hours car to car.

Quite slow for real alpine climbers but I was very happy with my performance on a somewhat technical 14er, being something that was way out of my norm. Priority now is getting married in a few weeks and backpacking from mammoth to Yosemite for the honeymoon.

Looking at re-animator in early nov over a weekend though...
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