Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 09:28am PT
|
And one for whitemeat and his buddy who blasted on a NIAD attempt at 4 this morning!
|
|
E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2013 - 11:05am PT
|
when I climbed this in 2005. there was a rumor of a missing feature on pitch 4
There were no bathook holes then...but there was a place where a feature had pulled off. A big ass reach in top loops solved it...looks like somebody took it upon themselves to fix that route.
on Genesis I was nailing a short corner...the second pitch off off El Cap tower after the expanding traverse. I came to a pretty committing move on a natural hook and found that I had missed 3 bathook holes in a row, These looked new and were made with a 3/8 drill....probably put in on a winter ascent the season before and not on the topo. That would have been a good pitch.
When I started if you got busted impoving routes you would be slandered by your peers so bad that your rep would be shot and nobody would talk to you anymore....and fear of that made me a better climber
Most of my adult life has carved out of experiences on those stones...good and bad and Im glad to have had the opportunity to get after it when the drill stayed off the rack.
Just sayin.......
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
|
Hey jcory, that sounds fun but I want to do a few more outings in Sierra before summer season ends. Was away most of the summer and miss the peaks here. Plus that 24+ hour push thing does not match my mood now. I had that last weekend (solo of evolution traverse car to car) and am more excited about bird-watching and eating good food. :)
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
|
E,
Yeah, that has always been the deal. Drilling on established routes is good for decades of slander. I'm just saying that if a flake did fall off, then the only thing to do is to put in some rivets. On most routes you can bail, leaving fixed ropes if you can, and talk it over with everyone, particularly the FA'ist in a perfect world.
I'm just saying that if you have to drill, put in some metal.
Practically every route on El Cap has had chicken bolts added. Have you seen that old chopped bolt on Boot Flake? I've heard who placed it, and was really surprised. I won't post the name because I don't know.
There has always been a camp of no alteration to the rock, and then the other camp who thinks that artful carving is OK.
Walling probably did the best thing. On one of his attempts to do the 2nd ascent of Born Under A Bad Sign, he missed some bathooks and found himself doing some nailing that was total psycho. So he placed a rivet and finished the pitch. At that point he bailed, and chopped the rivet on the way down. That is the real way to do it.
Aid climbing has some hard rules to enforce, and I have a bud that was forced to drill on a route. They bailed, but he had put in bathook holes, or little doctored dimples or whatever.
That was about thirty years ago, and he has taken a ton of sh#t over it. I asked him what he would have done now that he is all grown up, he said he would have down hooked it to the point that he could and then have just taken the fall.
I guess that most people just drill and don't tell anyone. Russ's solution should have been more widely known. It is the only correct way to get off of a pitch that is too hard. Russ saw the bathook holes as he was rapping the pitch, so he came back again and did it with them.
Remember when rivets were really rivets? Bridwell's idea was to put in dowels that wouldn't catch a fall, because a bolt would make the pitch safer, fall wise.
I'm an old guy, but I see pics of old rivet ladders that have been replaced with 3/8" fat bolts. Boy does that change the difficulty. Nowadays a 1/4" buttonhead is a "rivet." They used to be belay anchors. Man, I remember a belay with a whole bunch of big copperheads tied together with a single quarter incher. I was pretty glad when my buddy reached a bolt on the next pitch.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
|
Great post Base104, wish more were like it.
|
|
briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
|
Man I wish I could join you. I'm guiding that weekend.
Edit: that's crazy V. Can't wait to hear about it.
|
|
matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
|
I may be free to climb that weekend. I'll check and get back with you.
Congrats Vit!!! Can't wait for the story.
-matt
Edit: word on whitemeat? Nose is on the short list but all my partners at the moment don't quite have enough experience to try it IAD and that's how I seem to be set on doin it.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
|
|
As per a post from Clint Cummins on the "New Bolts on the Nose" thread, Sloan isn't associated with ASCA anymore so a boycott would seem an inefficient use of time at best.
|
|
jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
|
Matty- let me know. Also, no word on whitemeat. Hopefully he and partner made it okay on their NIAD attempt. Webcams and Instagram showed the valley to be a smoky mess.
As far as drilling on established routes. Seems like if a feature has fallen off or the anchor bolts are sketchy then thoughtful placement or replacement respectively would be ok. If an old rivet ladder is full of rivet about to fall out what is the norm?
I don't even own a drill. And I don't hammer often cause its a bitch/slow to pull hammered pins. So there will be no beezy drilling on re-animator. Ill do what I can to remove crap fixed gear too.
Thanks for the post klaus.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
Seems like if a feature has fallen off or the anchor bolts are sketchy then thoughtful placement or replacement respectively would be ok.
LOL Not at all ok if you want to climb one of Klaus' routes. He would make anchors from a rivet, equalized to a body weight placement behind an expando-flake (semi-joking).
I was looking through beta for 'Jesus Built My Hotrod' once and had a good laugh: http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=yblejesu
Mr. Klaus should post more often, I like his sense of humor.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
|
|
|
Sep 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
|
Bump for TR. How did it go up there?
|
|
jcory86
Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
|
ALAS...NO CLIMB = NO TR
I hadn't been able to find a partner that wanted to join me so I called up my "one-wall-a-year" buddy (who's one wall was already in the books for 2013) and asked what he was up to...He informed me that he wanted to do a quick trip up thunderbolt peak. So...we did thunderbolt in 29 hours car to car.
Quite slow for real alpine climbers but I was very happy with my performance on a somewhat technical 14er, being something that was way out of my norm. Priority now is getting married in a few weeks and backpacking from mammoth to Yosemite for the honeymoon.
Looking at re-animator in early nov over a weekend though...
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!