Leversee Offwidth near Balch Park


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 148 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
bingo Jaybro. You wanna wait till the poison oak and rattlers calm down and after the first couple big storms. The place greens up nicely and is fairly low and below snow line 95% of the time. And you get to wear pants and long sleeves for the groveling.

I can see it from my commute most clear days.

Patterson Bluffs from hwy 168 and Herndon ave
Patterson Bluffs from hwy 168 and Herndon ave
Credit: micronut


Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 28, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
wow, great pic micro!

You got time Alexey! It's a cool place, especially after it rains. Waterfalls, ticks, poison oak, narrow roads over a canyon!


Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
I'm in LA and sense a similar southern taco crew if this works out.

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
We can carpool Matty.

November sounds good. A walk behind that flake in the corridor of mordor is almost worth the trip by itself, combine with the scenery:

Still life with Jaybro
Still life with Jaybro
Credit: Elcapinyoazz
Took a wrong turn at Fresno
Took a wrong turn at Fresno
Credit: Elcapinyoazz

and killer cracks = Stellar outing.

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 29, 2013 - 12:34am PT

So, can I say "Go get it before Pamela does!"?

It's funny, I think my very first post to ST was more or less the same as the original poster's: wtf is the awesome OW climb in that XXX poster? (Clint will check I'm sure). Or maybe it was even back in rec.climbing days.

Jay: do you think there is any body size for which it would be significantly easier? It looks like it varies so much that it will trash anyone regardless.

Aug 29, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Cool thread.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:35am PT
I couldn't, quite, get in it anywhere on the first pitch. It kept pushing me out, the whole gently overhanging, 165'. It is relentlessly, consistantlyy sized. I'd imagine if you could get an occasional inside rest it would be a good thing, and it would favor those small enough to tunnel. I'm 5.10, 150 lbs with fairly bulky chest and shoulders.

Darwin, were you the guy who wrote "what is that peice of Yosemite Offwidth he'll in the Patagonia ad in the latest climbing" or similar, in rec climbing?
Funny story, someone wrote that, then Brutus posted up all the details. Unbeknownst to me. Richard had reported it all in the AAC journal. Steve Glotfety remarked, "looks like you have a stalker"
So I looked into it and contacted Brutus, who spilled the beans about the journal. That was how I first met him! A year later, he Em and I met to climb in the now defunct gym in San Rafael! Funny how this sh#t works!

As for Pam, it's on her radar.. She's asked me about it, it's been problematic for her to get there that time of year though.

At OR Jan,'12 Cedar Wright asked me about it. He has family in region and is actually familiar with the area. He showed a strong Interest, but tends to have a rather full plate... But if he goes home for thanksgiving, watch out!

Gym climber
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:06am PT
When we goin' KMan?

Now that is some funny sh`t... But heck, a .12- sport route, what could be the problem?

I'll stoke the fire for the weenies after then sends and keep the suds cold though.
SuperTaco Road Trip!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:17am PT
I'll come out and shoot video...
but I'll not be in shape for something like that this fall... (not to say I wouldn't give it a try).

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Who's gonna be the first to lead it on a rack of puffer fish?
Loose Rocks

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:33am PT
That thing looks awesome and awful. Would I give it a go on a TR using a static line and a hoist me up tight belay. Probably not.

San Jose, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Somehow I become exited about training for this route. Despite it is above my top-rope ability in term of grade , but it looks so "friendly" on the photos. Sometimes you come to the base with hight expectations, but route looks so intimidating, compare what you expect from the photos - this can be a case. Anyway it seems strait forward training for overhanging arm bar ( for right shoulder) for crack size 7-8.5 inches and train for super endurance for those moves.
I've already measured that I can squeeze in at 8 3/4 inches which is just before #9 Giant tiped out (at 9"). And I can do chicken wing at 8"
Jabro can you squeeze in at 8 3/4"? If not I would have some advantage which I desperately need.
2-3 month of specific training can make the difference. For me the goal just reach the top, not even think about on-site.
If someone on this tread still be motivated in mid November- drop me e-mail- we can hook up.

Aug 29, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Do I need a Tyvek suit for the approach? I'm game for a SoCal mission to JCA's WWS. Have cams & gas money.

Alexey - I'd meet you there.

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
After getting thoroughly spanked on Right Side of Hourglass on two different occasions, and comparing those experiences to looking at the pictures that don't seem so bad, I'm much more reticent to be gung-ho about stuff. Especially given my general aversion to training or anything that requires will-power.

Still, it looks quite tantalizing to just get in there and try it. Even if it's about 8 letter grades beyond my ability. Perhaps the fastest way to get good at offwidth would be to go on a top-rope odyssey and hang the thing into submission for however long it took (counting time for skin to grow back).

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Alexey - I'd be interested in watching this thing unfold. The fact that you have measured how small a crack you can fit your body into suggests an impressive level of committment to OW. I'll probably run into you at PGSV.
Dr. F.

Boulder climber
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
If you read the other thread that someone had a link to, you will see why it is harder than it looks, and why it's bolted.

It's overhanging for the entire length!!!

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Have you guys met? Well, I've met you both, you should get along fine.go team! Keep me in the loop and maybe I can get atop rope!

And,what Dr F sez, yup!

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Alexey, let me know a week or two before you want to go, and I'll be there.

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
I was in trouble. No matter how much I waved the seven inch big dude around in the crack it was still just too small. My back hurt. My right leg was locked in, but my left foot snaked around to a lame smear on the face wasn't much help. I gripped the edge of the crack with my left hand for support. I was fifteen feet above the last piece, a maxed #5 Camelot, and more than a hundred feet to go. I had two bigbros big enough to fit the crack above. Finally I found a spot where the cams tentatively bridged the gap...
"Paul, send up the drill....."

Jay Anderson 1996

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Messages 21 - 40 of total 148 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews