Leversee Offwidth near Balch Park

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Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Anyone heard of this?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
If you mean Balch Camp Flake, it's on Patterson Bluff, and the classic climb is
JCA's Wide World of Sports - 5.12b ow/squeeze
Bolted by Richard Leversee
FA by Jay Anderson and Brad Jarrett, March 1995
Credit: Radish
Credit: Jaybro

http://widefetish.com/features/jays_wws/jays_wws.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
That's the one.

Thanks!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
That thing looks like it'd be hard left-side in.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Thing would be hard regardless. Once you get above the first third though, might could do layback sprinting intersperesed with knee bar rests if you were facing right/L-side-in orientation. Looks like a few decent feet on the right arete.

When we goin' KMan?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
I can't quite see Balch Camp Flake on my drive home, but most days I can see the left (west) side of Patterson Bluff. If any of you Southlanders are heading this way and need or want to stop in the Fresno/Clovis area, send me an email. I'd be happy to meet you and provide food and/or drink, plus what little adivce my fading memory can give. I'm too out of shape right now for Jaybro's OW, though.

John
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
It is impressive splitter , but does not looks as 5.12

edit: now I see on topo : technical 11d, endurance 5.12. Assuming that p1 is 165 feet of overhanging 5.11, it make sense.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Is bolting of trad routes typical at this crag?
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Yeah that Jay guy must be puffing his feathers....5.10+max!

Supertopo crew to check it out? I'll grunt

Bolts were used because the crack got too wide for pro. you would need a mega rack of valley giants and big bros to lead it sans bolts.


matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
More:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2101621/Patterson-Bluff

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1046600/Name-this-Central-Sierra-Crag
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
I bet Alexey can do it and not use the bolts.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
I'll bet not 👹though if anyone could, it would be Alexey.
It would, go on valley giants though. Craig was going to attempt it on bigbros but never got around to it.
As far for the lieback option, ask Brad how that worked for him :)

The second ascent awaits!

Edit: a few more details to flesh it out.
When Brad got to the first crux, following on top rope, he fell off and said "wow, this must be .11c!" It's like that for the next hundred plus feet.

I believe that looking down photo is near the end of the second pitch, where it is, a lot easier. Though that pitch is stout 5.11. I was looking forward to Brad leading it, but he was too hammered after following pitch one.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
I'll add this, having seen the thing up close in person, I was way too intimidated to try it.

I think Jay asked if I was fit for enduro stuff, "Um, yeah I don't have that kind of fitness, where's that Pay at the Pump thing?" Run away!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
this "Wide World of Sports" can be live long goal.Climb before retirement.
No need to go to Vedawoo. Good that Jaybro is here on Supertopo in case if motivation come and I will need beta.
WBraun

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
I will need beta.

Why would someone need beta for this?

One just steps up to the plate and starts climbing.

The more sh!t you carry in your head the more you weigh ....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Also, if the bolts are an Issue, the route to the left of it The passionate Life 5.11 is also waiting a second ascent. We didn't put Any bolts on that one! And it even has a hanging belay on big cams! -old style bd 4.5's & 5's
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
I'll drive a Supertopo crew up there and photograph it if yall can get to Fresno. We can BBQ at my place afterwards if a posse is serious about gettin' on it. I'd love to head up there and check the place out once it cools off.


Seriously. Let me know.

Scott
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
And Will knows the trail!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
It is generous offer Micronut. Hard to resist. Not sure that I want to try this year fall unless I do some magic training for two month. What is the best time of the year to go for this route ?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
November / February
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:43pm PT
bingo Jaybro. You wanna wait till the poison oak and rattlers calm down and after the first couple big storms. The place greens up nicely and is fairly low and below snow line 95% of the time. And you get to wear pants and long sleeves for the groveling.

I can see it from my commute most clear days.

Patterson Bluffs from hwy 168 and Herndon ave
Patterson Bluffs from hwy 168 and Herndon ave
Credit: micronut

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 28, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
wow, great pic micro!


You got time Alexey! It's a cool place, especially after it rains. Waterfalls, ticks, poison oak, narrow roads over a canyon!

:)
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
I'm in LA and sense a similar southern taco crew if this works out.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
We can carpool Matty.

November sounds good. A walk behind that flake in the corridor of mordor is almost worth the trip by itself, combine with the scenery:

Still life with Jaybro
Still life with Jaybro
Credit: Elcapinyoazz
Took a wrong turn at Fresno
Took a wrong turn at Fresno
Credit: Elcapinyoazz

and killer cracks = Stellar outing.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 29, 2013 - 12:34am PT

So, can I say "Go get it before Pamela does!"?

It's funny, I think my very first post to ST was more or less the same as the original poster's: wtf is the awesome OW climb in that XXX poster? (Clint will check I'm sure). Or maybe it was even back in rec.climbing days.


Jay: do you think there is any body size for which it would be significantly easier? It looks like it varies so much that it will trash anyone regardless.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 29, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Cool thread.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:35am PT
I couldn't, quite, get in it anywhere on the first pitch. It kept pushing me out, the whole gently overhanging, 165'. It is relentlessly, consistantlyy sized. I'd imagine if you could get an occasional inside rest it would be a good thing, and it would favor those small enough to tunnel. I'm 5.10, 150 lbs with fairly bulky chest and shoulders.

Darwin, were you the guy who wrote "what is that peice of Yosemite Offwidth he'll in the Patagonia ad in the latest climbing" or similar, in rec climbing?
Funny story, someone wrote that, then Brutus posted up all the details. Unbeknownst to me. Richard had reported it all in the AAC journal. Steve Glotfety remarked, "looks like you have a stalker"
So I looked into it and contacted Brutus, who spilled the beans about the journal. That was how I first met him! A year later, he Em and I met to climb in the now defunct gym in San Rafael! Funny how this sh#t works!

As for Pam, it's on her radar.. She's asked me about it, it's been problematic for her to get there that time of year though.

At OR Jan,'12 Cedar Wright asked me about it. He has family in region and is actually familiar with the area. He showed a strong Interest, but tends to have a rather full plate... But if he goes home for thanksgiving, watch out!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:06am PT
When we goin' KMan?

Now that is some funny sh`t... But heck, a .12- sport route, what could be the problem?


I'll stoke the fire for the weenies after then sends and keep the suds cold though.
SuperTaco Road Trip!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:17am PT
I'll come out and shoot video...
but I'll not be in shape for something like that this fall... (not to say I wouldn't give it a try).
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:24am PT
Who's gonna be the first to lead it on a rack of puffer fish?
Loose Rocks

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 11:33am PT
That thing looks awesome and awful. Would I give it a go on a TR using a static line and a hoist me up tight belay. Probably not.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Somehow I become exited about training for this route. Despite it is above my top-rope ability in term of grade , but it looks so "friendly" on the photos. Sometimes you come to the base with hight expectations, but route looks so intimidating, compare what you expect from the photos - this can be a case. Anyway it seems strait forward training for overhanging arm bar ( for right shoulder) for crack size 7-8.5 inches and train for super endurance for those moves.
I've already measured that I can squeeze in at 8 3/4 inches which is just before #9 Giant tiped out (at 9"). And I can do chicken wing at 8"
Jabro can you squeeze in at 8 3/4"? If not I would have some advantage which I desperately need.
2-3 month of specific training can make the difference. For me the goal just reach the top, not even think about on-site.
If someone on this tread still be motivated in mid November- drop me e-mail- we can hook up.
crøtch

climber
Aug 29, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
Do I need a Tyvek suit for the approach? I'm game for a SoCal mission to JCA's WWS. Have cams & gas money.

Alexey - I'd meet you there.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
After getting thoroughly spanked on Right Side of Hourglass on two different occasions, and comparing those experiences to looking at the pictures that don't seem so bad, I'm much more reticent to be gung-ho about stuff. Especially given my general aversion to training or anything that requires will-power.

Still, it looks quite tantalizing to just get in there and try it. Even if it's about 8 letter grades beyond my ability. Perhaps the fastest way to get good at offwidth would be to go on a top-rope odyssey and hang the thing into submission for however long it took (counting time for skin to grow back).
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Alexey - I'd be interested in watching this thing unfold. The fact that you have measured how small a crack you can fit your body into suggests an impressive level of committment to OW. I'll probably run into you at PGSV.
Chris
Dr. F.

Boulder climber
SoCal
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
If you read the other thread that someone had a link to, you will see why it is harder than it looks, and why it's bolted.

It's overhanging for the entire length!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
Have you guys met? Well, I've met you both, you should get along fine.go team! Keep me in the loop and maybe I can get atop rope!

And,what Dr F sez, yup!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Alexey, let me know a week or two before you want to go, and I'll be there.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
I was in trouble. No matter how much I waved the seven inch big dude around in the crack it was still just too small. My back hurt. My right leg was locked in, but my left foot snaked around to a lame smear on the face wasn't much help. I gripped the edge of the crack with my left hand for support. I was fifteen feet above the last piece, a maxed #5 Camelot, and more than a hundred feet to go. I had two bigbros big enough to fit the crack above. Finally I found a spot where the cams tentatively bridged the gap...
"Paul, send up the drill....."

Jay Anderson 1996
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
it is going to be a big party! With Micronut and JEleazarian hosting, SoCal mission with Elcap ( he knows the approach), matty,k-man, crøtch, possible NutAgain! and NoCal mission with camera man Ed, Chill, cultureshock, me and my wife and probably more.. and possible Jaybro-maister if we keep him in the loop..
With such crew we can siege the thing in November.

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
I'm serious. We can meet in Fresno or Clovis, caravan up there and watch you get all rad. I got my big lens and we'll make ya famous. I'm serious about hosting a BBQ at our home afterwards. I'm legendary on the grill and my wife's side dishes will gain you six pounds instantly. I love that area and haven't been up there in a few years so it'll be fun to stomp around up there. Lets do this thing!

Credit: micronut
Our home is between Fresno and the foothills. It's a perfect launch pad for adventure up there.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
A BBQ with Micronut.

A huge OFFWIDTH of destruction.

Have valley giant, will travel.

Let me know when the date settles. November would be rad!

 Luke
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Keep me in the loop, too!

John
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
We got these in the lower Kings last weekend!

Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut

Cultureshock.....this aint The Hulk you know...this is river country....you sure you're up for some "low country" action?!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
I can bring a few #5's and a #6techfriend if needed. We can siege the other routes too.

Anyone know many routes are on the flake? I heard mention of 4 other OW's? any non OW routes outside or inside? Details please!


EDIT: YUM

double edit:

http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0

^^^Lots more info/pics including routes SPOILER ALERT (lol)
Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Amazing! A friend asked me if I had heard of this route. Five minutes later here it is, and now it looks like it is turning into the party of the season.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Matty, Ill go try the other climbs with you, check out the patterson bluff thread.

After those boys chase off the snakes, chopp the PO and get the place ready for us. We can dash up the trail in style....

That OW looks like the real deal from the ground.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Guyzo! you bet



And it was 7min later Matt, not 5! Geeeze get it right =)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Anyone know many routes are on the flake? I heard mention of 4 other OW's? any non OW routes outside or inside? Details please!
Click on link from 2nd post to find the answer (7, 4 ows, 3 non-ow):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake <br/>
GPS 36.913117,-119.067841
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake
GPS 36.913117,-119.067841
Credit: Guy Kersee / Clint Cummins
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
totally missed that link


Thanks Clint!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Don't forget, those cracks go all the way through the flake (some of them do, anyway), so there are actually 2-for-1, you can climb the other side of them, from behind the flake, which are entirely different climbs.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 29, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Awww yeah..... Start givin' me yer shirt sizes now.
Credit: micronut
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 29, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
Is a Blufferfest anything like a Sufferfest? If that wide crack is involved, I'd say so. Cool sketch.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
"I tried to climb but the rock called my bluff"

-future me
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Aug 29, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
Maybe a little offwidther tartar will be on the menu.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Aug 30, 2013 - 12:06am PT
Winter = dormant PO. I am in to go and watch and then see how far I get before falling.

Micro, I missed the last BBQ. I am in. Love the shirt. I got beer.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 30, 2013 - 12:13am PT
I'd TR the heck outta that if ya'll get a rope up there (is that allowed?) ;-) ;-) !!!

edited: lol blufferfest... !
crøtch

climber
Aug 30, 2013 - 01:01am PT
Nice drawing Micronut. I'm a size Medium for most tees.

Stock up on Tegaderm and Technu boys and girls.

Alexey, I think you can get your right scapula removed in Bolivia for a nominal fee. No more problems on 8" cracks.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 30, 2013 - 02:02am PT
Hey seriously, if this turns into a blufferfest (bluff-fest), that sounds awesome... I got a new job and so this could definitely be in the budget in November, esp. if you all go over a weekend... I can get myself to a Jtree caravan... let me know if i may partake in this fest... how freakin' fun! And either way, I want a t-shirt-great design! ~Catherine.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2013 - 08:52am PT
XL , esp if its cotton, that shrinks
ec

climber
ca
Aug 30, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Equally impressive was a photo that I saw of John Wason on "50 lbs of Crack" totally upside down in the roof. 'Anyone have that to share for the thread drift?
 ec
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Aug 30, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
I'm a medium. If you make me a shirt then I will be there
okie

Trad climber
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Alexey: "I can squeeze in at 8 3/4 inches..." "I measured..."
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Is a Blufferfest anything like a Sufferfest? If that wide crack is involved, I'd say so.

Too true, El Cap.

I'm an XL.

John
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
Shirt size is always a tough one. Usually medium, but sometimes they are too tight through the lats (The B.A.T. shirts Nature did as an example). Call it a large I guess.

matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 30, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
XL


I'll gladly chip in for the shirt as I'm sure others will too =)
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 30, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
Size S
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Aug 30, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
Large. Adam, set a date so we can start nailing this thing down.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Gal, you have winning size for WideWord of Sports.
I wish I have medium..
How to transform width of the chest ( squeeze size) into T-shurts sizes
7" - S
8"- M
9"-L
10" and up- XL
Nice design Micronut..

Since big crowd coming shell we set up dates convenient for all dates for Blufferfest /Sufferfes and book them?
I propose weekend Nov 16/17, and in case that weather is bad back it up with next one Nov 23/24.
What do you think?
Matt Sarad ( started this tread which was hijacked) - you should come too..
And also it amazing flake has 4 OW cracks in the 511a- 5.12b range, which make short november days entertaining. No one will be bored. Split in 4 teams and run for the top of the flake.

1.The Passionate life11c with 5.12 hand variation
The Passionate life11c, WideFetish photo
The Passionate life11c, WideFetish photo
Credit: Alexey
2.Wide World of Sports 11d_12b
WideWord Of Sports, WideFetish foto
WideWord Of Sports, WideFetish foto
Credit: Alexey
3.Behind the Passionate life11c
Behind the Passionate life11c, Wide Fetish photo
Behind the Passionate life11c, Wide Fetish photo
Credit: Alexey
4.Behind the WideWord life11-
Behind the WideWord, 5.11a - Wide fetish photo
Behind the WideWord, 5.11a - Wide fetish photo
Credit: Alexey
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
And right across the road, the Big Schwa a 5.11 almost as good as Butterballs and is a size most people consider fun.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
I like OW, blue collar climbing. If I'm strong, but haven't climbed much lately, how's that equate? Is it all trickery, or thuggery?

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Gal: If you can get to SoCal, we can carpool.

Brandon, equal mix. You need the technique, but you need a lot of fitness. Less thug, more enduro. 4" at a time, 200', that's only 600 moves.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
sometimes 2 inches/per stroke considered good progress .
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
my goodness, these people are Serious.


indeed, November is a good month to die...
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
I don't know about that wide stuff but... a little bird told me that the BlitzoPalooza is going to be on Nov. 9th. Please pick another day than that to bleed ya'll.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 30, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Alexy. NOVEMBER 16/17 really works for me. If yall are serious, I'll block the weekend out and plan up some serious food. People can also bivy on our floor if needed.....this sounds like a riot.

Patterson is a rad, old school place full of history and lore. We Fresnans look upon her with awe and respect. It wpuld be a blast to watch the second ascent go down. I'll start sending out some emails. Who here is serious about trying to make it?

Stoked.

-Scott
A more detailed mock up.  What do you think of a back that says "its a...
A more detailed mock up. What do you think of a back that says "its a great day to bleed"
Credit: micronut
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 30, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
I hope November 16/17 will works for everyone who want to go.

Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
I asked my buddy who posed the question. A couple are coming out from Colorado for the climbing tour of California. The Needles are on the list, and so is this. They may be around in the next month or so.

As for me, my broken bones and collapsed lung have healed. The 5 mm medial shift of my brain hitting the skull during the bike accident messed up my memory, cognitive abilities, hearing and vision. I can walk a mile or two and I am ready for a nap.

Other than that, I am ready to go.

We'll be camping at Fir Campground next weekend to see how I am with a teeny bit of altitude.

Sounds like a great weekend. Keep me posted.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 30, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
I'm serious. And yes, ElCap, I will get to J-tree... sometime around the 15th (fri)if those are the dates, sound good? Now I've got to see how I'm going to get ready for these insane looking offwidths...

what have i just gotten myself into ;-) ;-) !!

edited: and thanks for the Blitzopalooza date, it's going to be a J-tree November!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 30, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
I don't look at the thread for a couple of days, and KAPOW!

Would be fun. XXL, but do I have to be able to actually top out an OW to get a shirt? lol

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
They will be in a neatly sorted pile on top of the flake....

And Brandon, remember the words of Ace Kvale; "Offwidth climbers make the most technical moves of all."
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Aug 30, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
And Nov 17 is a full moon. The stars are aligning for a second ascent.
crøtch

climber
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:03am PT
I'm in for a November 16/17 Bluff Fest.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Aug 31, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
Jaybro, that's so funny, hope i get to those neatly arranged shirt stacks, and hope you'll be there too!!!

BLUFF-FEST, yay!!!!!
Bascuela

climber
Fresno, CA
Aug 31, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
I work as a commercial pilot out of Fresno and fly right over the bluffs all the time on my Vegas runs. I shot a few pics of the bluff a few days back but deleted them because I thought there was no interest. Oops.

I snap a few more next time for everyone to examine at their leisure.

 Aaron
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Aug 31, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
That would be rad Aaron.

I'll be sending out some emails soon to start to firm things up. I look forward to meeting and feeding you guys/gals and watching you bleed and hyperventillate and cry like children.

Scott
Leggs

Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
Sep 1, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Why would someone need beta for this?

One just steps up to the plate and starts climbing.

The more sh!t you carry in your head the more you weigh ....



Kinda brilliant.

~peace
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Sep 3, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Sounds like a lot of fun.
If only it were left side in...
I was asking Jaybro about this before I met him, it was the entree, I guess.
I'm a size medium.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 3, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
Just caught up on this thread and I wanna play!!!

If a caravan of taco's comes up here in november I'll be there to embarrass myself on the flake. And embarrass myself again by eating all of Scott's food at his new country villa, woo!

Size L or XL

Here's a different angle of the beast
Patterson right and the flake
Patterson right and the flake
Credit: limpingcrab
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:19am PT
on my calendar... we'll see....
LuckyNeck

Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:02am PT
Hey Scott, Adam just told me about this tonight, sounds rad, I'd love to join in. I don't know how much of a blue collar climber I am, but sounds like a good time to bring the camera to the crag.

And then there's the t-shirts and Craw-fish... who says no to that?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:16am PT
I suppose food and t-shirts are popular.
But you will need a hazmat suit to get through the poison oak jungle to reach the base.
Poison oak is not "dormant" at any time of year - even if the leaves have fallen off, the urushiol is still on the stems which will be abundant.
So keep that in mind.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:35am PT
So who's immune to it? I volunteer those people to go make a trail. I will die if I look at it so I'm not on that team.
LuckyNeck

Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:39am PT
Topo says to Rapp in... is a trail necessary? Maybe just clear the base area out a smidge?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:55am PT
Alright fellas. I'm stoked for the energy vibin' in this thread but yall are right, we got some deliberatin to do about that approach. If this thing really does take shape.....as it looks like it is (i've started emailing a bit with Alexey and he's really stoked to give this route a proper try), I say us locals (Macronut, DaveyTree, Lucky Neck, Limping Crab etc....) need to put together an advance team to go suss out that approach. Top down might be out of the question once the snow hits since coming in from Shaver might be socked in. I haven't been out to the flake in years, and we need to know what that approach is like before bringing a bunch of folks up there. Lets get in touch soon and tawkamongstowaselves..
LuckyNeck

Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:13am PT
Word. Good ol' fashioned service project. Let's get sweaty.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:42am PT
As far as I understood in March 2010, Jaybro, ElCap and Munge did approach to the flake from the bottom and made some "gardening" on the approach trail.
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0

How bad this poison oak can grow back if no one used this trail for 3 years?
If it is unknown - probably the best take special suit Clint recommended and techno solution

inexpensive $6 disposable hazmat suite
http://www.pksafety.com/dupont-hazmat-tyvek-protective-suit-ty122s-1414.html
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 04:50am PT
It's probably well overgrown after 3.5 years.
It could be lopped off again, but best to do a trail work / recon weekend ahead of time to get the trail into shape.
After a weekend or two of trail work, it could be ready for a group to hike up without hazmat suits.
Don't forget about the ticks, too....
It's all doable, just requires work and tolerance for possible PO exposure and ticks.
Clearly some spectacular and challenging climbs.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:09am PT
We flagged, cairned, the trail, it prolly can be followed, when in doubt look for the sawed off branches. So far I'm immune, though every single person I've cut trail with got it,
Both expeditions.

I've done the rap in, and it's a pain in the ass. We had four hundred foot static lines, ( heavy to carry on the hour plus slog to the summit)!and it was still a pain. You need six hundred feet of rap lines, and there is a Tyrollean traverse to the top of the flake, too. Last time I was up there, that trail was grossly overgrown as well. A team going in that way could get the best photos though.
The bottom line, the bottom trail is the way to go.

Yup, Gal, looking to be there.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 11:00am PT
didn't Roper have a solution for that PO problem, BITD?
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Sep 4, 2013 - 11:19am PT
I'm immune to poison oak, live near by and like building trail so if a group effort is made to improve this trail I volunteer to help.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 4, 2013 - 11:19am PT
You really don't want to go in from the top. An advance team to suss the trail condition and maybe reflag, would be a good idea. It was a little crawly at points, and while flagged, would probably be a little weird to follow if you haven't been in there before.

I'm not confident that I could follow it back in there, there were a couple spots where I'd have probably lost the trail if not with Jay who'd just put the trail in and been in there multiuple times that month.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
I'll try to get there that week post Bloot fest and do trail stuff. I know that, may call in an agent orange airstrike before hand. Did you get any P.O. reaction last time, Will? I wonder if Sarah did.

Ah yes, Ed the final, Roper solution, aka The Fire next time!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
I'm pretty sure you can still get PO from the ash so I hope it doesn't burn! Didn't that happen to them?

Anyway, anyone care to draw in the approximate path in case I get a free day to go do a bit of work?
Credit: limpingcrab
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
A trail would be sublime. I'm pretty reactive to the oak. I'll have to order one of those hazmat suits...

I'm psyched to mark down the November 16/17 weekend. I've got at least 500 feet of static line if we do want to do the top approach. But it seems that way is not the best way... My main priority would be avoiding the OAK!!

Micro, low altitudes just cause extra sweating on my part. I tend to melt in the summertime, thus my annual retreats to the Hulk. I also could really use some more PHAT crack training. Psyched to meet more of you guys.

I'm a size small for a T-Shirt. I'll can offer a ride for two people from the South Bay (Sunnyvale).

 Luke
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
cultureshock says:

"I also could really use some more PHAT crack training."

I can help with that.
This is just over the hill from you, sort of.
It's 29 ft tall at this point.
Extra interest could be the incentive to add 8 ft to the top.
Admittedly, it is mostly left side in, but it is overhanging and quite tiring.
I send out email invitations to about 40 people, but usually get a crowd of
1-4 climbers. Anyone who wants to get in on this training opportunity is
welcome. Send me a message and I'll get you on the list.
I'll do sessions more or less any time you want.


PHOTO BY MIKE BOLTE
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Jay, I did not. I seem to be relatively immune to the stuff (I hope, might just be good luck so far) never have gotten it, despite wallowing in it pretty good at times (approach to set up TR on Roadside Attraction had me swimming through it, arch rock approach, the blach crawl, finger lickin...seems like I would have gotten it by now).

Only got a very minor rash from posion ivy back east, one single time, despite spending countless days in the woods and plenty of contact with it. Either lucky or not sensitive...hope it's the latter.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
Eddie, Roper's answer to poison oak was warm leatherette, and worn very tight, full body.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
oh my!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Let me know if you need help trail building/blazing. My brains are suspect, but I can supply some muscle.

John
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Last time there I didn't get it but the last time I got it was from ears to toes. There is also the option of coming from the direction of Limpingcrabs pic. There is a pg&e road that gets you close to the bluff and covered ladders that lead down to the base. Traversing from there might be less work and less PO.

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
The approach Jay put in was casual. Short, pretty flat, a little manzanita or other hateful bushes, but on the grand scheme of approaches, this thing is nothing to worry about...except for the PO maybe if you're susceptible...technu, tyvek suit, advance party with surveyor's ribbon and you're golden. No need to recreate the wheel really.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
I'll try to get there that week post Bloot fest
FFA party coming!!, it sound exciting.

Steve, your plywood monster in redwoods probably very similar size. 165 ft : 28 ft = ~6 runs with no stop - can be good check. I'll be there next wide Wednesday.

BTW, what is
PHAT crack training

I can not get it, is it abbreviation of something?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
PHAT = fat = large/wide
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
trail to Balch Camp Flake - overlay guess
trail to Balch Camp Flake - overlay guess
Credit: google maps / Clint Cummins
Here's my best guess on where the trail goes, based on Jay's photos from the trail work in 2010.
Jay / Will / Rob - can you correct or confirm this?
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Sep 4, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Ok...I'm in email contact with a few of you now and will be doing a couple things ahead of time.

1. Working on an advance trail cutting crew

2. Letting folks know where I live and when to show up and where

3. T-shirt list and sizes

4. Figuring out a vantage for photographing

This is gonna be a blast yall. The first annual Bluff Fest is on like Donkey Kong!

Credit: internet photo
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 4, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
How ominous, i Iove it!

Trail map looks likely,as I scan it while multitasking @75 mph. Back 2 u later

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 4, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Oh the pic of the beast with the slabs in foreground.

<3 slabs!


Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Sep 4, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
If I can walk by then, I may try to make the trip. Bay area carpooling anyone?

Especially if Jays going!


Lol, size M for the Injured Reserve Girl
LuckyNeck

Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
Sep 4, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
I enjoy a Med shirt. Since this is in P.O. and tick and "wide" country... we thinkin' long sleeved T's make Good sense?

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 4, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
There is other stuff there, at all levels really

LJ on FA
LJ on FA
Credit: Elcapinyoazz
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 4, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Cool.
Hmm, I don't have any LJ routes in the online guide page.
Maybe when you folks are done developing, let me know....
No rush, though - I should be busy gathering info on some other granite place. :-)
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Sep 5, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Thinking the same thing Clint. Good to know others are still busy up there. Should be a good time, looking forward to it.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
The key thing on the trail is getting the start right. I posted photos on wide fetish of the starting cairn. It's a semi obvious line that heads to a power tower. I'll see what visual aids I can round up.
Sarah funky fresh found her way in just from our parked cars. And I think Mike Arrchiega did it just on Internet clues, and a few words we shared at PG Belmont.. It's really a pretty easy trail, Mas o menos...


Oh that reminds me, LJ and I, have some un finished business on a line back there! One that Leverseehimself suggested.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 6, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
The powerline tower beta is helpful - that suggests the line I drew may have been close, because it crossed the powerlines.

Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake approach trail - route of Ale...
Patterson Bluff Right - Balch Camp Flake approach trail - route of Alexey and Chris 11/2/2013
Follow GREEN flagging for correct trail - don't lose it or you will get lost.
Credit: google satellite / Alexey / Clint Cummins
New version of approach trail guess - each T is a powerline tower.
Is the tower you mentioned where the powerlines change direction?

I don't see the cairn photo on the 2010 widefetish thread "Balch Camp, a call to action":
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0
There is a photo of folks squeezing under manzanita, captioned "The wrong trail" (low on the second page).

start of trail to Balch Camp Flake - <br/>
marked with green flagging &#40...
start of trail to Balch Camp Flake -
marked with green flagging (2010-13); beware of poison oak and ticks
GPS 36.901991,-119.061511
Credit: DaveyTree
So all I have at present is this photo by DaveyTree (no cairn visible).
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
Sep 6, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
Work schdule is crazy, but if there's a group goin' I'll take the time off. Have a single vg9 and some bros to contribute...and down to lead it if no one else wants to? About a 4 hour drive for me, no big deal.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
Sep 6, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
I have 2 #6's to whoever will be attempting the lead of these various *fun* routes! Looking forward to it, nice how it is all is coming together!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Sep 6, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Clint, that pic is what my best guess of the trail was and did not see any others. Looked to be the trail.

I plan on bringing my bigger cams for those going up.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 6, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
That could be it, the cairn was right on the road...
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Sep 6, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
I'll be giving my personal info out in a few weeks to start getting some firm numbers and to discuss camping and or bivying at our place in Clovis. I was up at Fresno Dome/Wamello today. Not a soul in sight. Fall is coming.....you can smell it in the air.
Credit: micronut
Camera tilt thanks to i phone upload.   Second to last putch on Whiske...
Camera tilt thanks to i phone upload. Second to last putch on Whiskey Bill.
Credit: micronut
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
Nice, Micro!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Oct 1, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Just keeping the stoke going for the upcoming BalchFest in November. I've been in touch with Alexey and he's a training beast. Looking Eastward on my drive home yesterday, the whole wall was lit up at sunset. I'll get some photos soon and post em up!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 1, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
I'm psyched too! I hope to be there a few days early for a major trail send athon. I have saws, clippers etc in storage in the Bay Area, but not with me here in Moab will be looking for same, to use right after the blitzo fest.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
I am physiqued to see JCA at the base of his improbable Wide Word of Sports..
Jaybro, anything similar , but bit easier in Indian Creek you can suggest? I'll be there next week
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Oct 1, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
Hey Alexey,
do you want to do a wide night this week?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 1, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Actually Alexey, "The Mayor," in Long Canyon, off the potash road outside of Moab is somewhat similar and .12a. It's also left side in, though. Give me a shout when you're here! It's in the shade afternoons when I'm generally free. There is a much right side in ow (the Dunn Luebben, 5.11o) n the other side of the pillar, as well. Also in that canyon are the dragon's layer, 5.11 squeeze/ow, sidewinder 5.11+ wide and Slither & Scream 5.11 hand stacks. All three right side in!! They don't call the area Offwidth City, for nothing!

I've done em all and would be happy to give you the tour!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 1, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Jaybro, I drop you e-mail, be happy to go for day in OWCity with you.
Steve, thanks , but this week I can not attend ..
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Cool Алексий!
Doe you still have my @me.com address? That is a better one than my one connected to supertopo.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 2, 2013 - 11:13am PT
e-mail sent
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 2, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Got it! Sounds good I'll reply shortly as work allows
Squeezo

Trad climber
Conifer CO
Oct 2, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Awesome looking route , but chop the bolts now, there is plenty of gear to protect that now,!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 7, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
Somewhere in beginning of this tread I said looking of some of the "wrong" angled photos that the route looks friendly for its grade.
here this route does not looks "friendly" at all, but intimidating , relentless and awesome

Credit: Alexey

from here
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/945011/BIG-BAD-BURLY-OWs-Craig-Luebben-Climbing-9-98
David Wilson

climber
CA
Oct 7, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
Alexey you are so right - the ominous color change and water stains say it all - STEEP
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Oct 8, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
Too big for my britches but looking forward to watching some serious work take place.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 9, 2013 - 12:04am PT
May be a dark mare in the race.


Squeezo, do the first fifty feet before presuming you have a voice at the grown up table.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 9, 2013 - 01:32am PT
do the first fifty feet before presuming you have a voice at the grown up table

BAM!

lol


just get thru the Poison Oak!!

pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Nov 8, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Bump for some true sickness
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