Leversee Offwidth near Balch Park

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Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Anyone heard of this?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
If you mean Balch Camp Flake, it's on Patterson Bluff, and the classic climb is
JCA's Wide World of Sports - 5.12b ow/squeeze
Bolted by Richard Leversee
FA by Jay Anderson and Brad Jarrett, March 1995
Credit: Radish
Credit: Jaybro

http://widefetish.com/features/jays_wws/jays_wws.html
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
Matt Sarad

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
That's the one.

Thanks!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
That thing looks like it'd be hard left-side in.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Thing would be hard regardless. Once you get above the first third though, might could do layback sprinting intersperesed with knee bar rests if you were facing right/L-side-in orientation. Looks like a few decent feet on the right arete.

When we goin' KMan?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
I can't quite see Balch Camp Flake on my drive home, but most days I can see the left (west) side of Patterson Bluff. If any of you Southlanders are heading this way and need or want to stop in the Fresno/Clovis area, send me an email. I'd be happy to meet you and provide food and/or drink, plus what little adivce my fading memory can give. I'm too out of shape right now for Jaybro's OW, though.

John
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
It is impressive splitter , but does not looks as 5.12

edit: now I see on topo : technical 11d, endurance 5.12. Assuming that p1 is 165 feet of overhanging 5.11, it make sense.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Is bolting of trad routes typical at this crag?
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Yeah that Jay guy must be puffing his feathers....5.10+max!

Supertopo crew to check it out? I'll grunt

Bolts were used because the crack got too wide for pro. you would need a mega rack of valley giants and big bros to lead it sans bolts.


matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
More:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2101621/Patterson-Bluff

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1046600/Name-this-Central-Sierra-Crag
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
I bet Alexey can do it and not use the bolts.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
I'll bet not 👹though if anyone could, it would be Alexey.
It would, go on valley giants though. Craig was going to attempt it on bigbros but never got around to it.
As far for the lieback option, ask Brad how that worked for him :)

The second ascent awaits!

Edit: a few more details to flesh it out.
When Brad got to the first crux, following on top rope, he fell off and said "wow, this must be .11c!" It's like that for the next hundred plus feet.

I believe that looking down photo is near the end of the second pitch, where it is, a lot easier. Though that pitch is stout 5.11. I was looking forward to Brad leading it, but he was too hammered after following pitch one.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
I'll add this, having seen the thing up close in person, I was way too intimidated to try it.

I think Jay asked if I was fit for enduro stuff, "Um, yeah I don't have that kind of fitness, where's that Pay at the Pump thing?" Run away!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
this "Wide World of Sports" can be live long goal.Climb before retirement.
No need to go to Vedawoo. Good that Jaybro is here on Supertopo in case if motivation come and I will need beta.
WBraun

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
I will need beta.

Why would someone need beta for this?

One just steps up to the plate and starts climbing.

The more sh!t you carry in your head the more you weigh ....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Also, if the bolts are an Issue, the route to the left of it The passionate Life 5.11 is also waiting a second ascent. We didn't put Any bolts on that one! And it even has a hanging belay on big cams! -old style bd 4.5's & 5's
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
I'll drive a Supertopo crew up there and photograph it if yall can get to Fresno. We can BBQ at my place afterwards if a posse is serious about gettin' on it. I'd love to head up there and check the place out once it cools off.


Seriously. Let me know.

Scott
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
And Will knows the trail!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
It is generous offer Micronut. Hard to resist. Not sure that I want to try this year fall unless I do some magic training for two month. What is the best time of the year to go for this route ?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
November / February
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