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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2006 - 07:42pm PT
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Does anyone ever climb here anymore?
I have spent the day trying to learn photoshop so this is a bit of an experiment. Bare with me.
These are all first ascent photo's from early to mid 80's. Some of the route names I remember many others, I don't. I have always found the place to be remote, quiet, and having very adventurous climbing. It is good steep crack climbing with the climbs requiring a variety of crack techniques.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
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Wow! Where the hell is that place?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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Post up some of your own Richard.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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Isn't that accesed via the Sagehen Summit turnoff or something like that?
'Went out there about 10 years ago on a drive about with Hawkins.
And 26 years ago on a woodcutting junket with Vern, out on the western end, we did some parallel log river crossings in Stimbo's truck.
'Always wanted to do some actual climbing...
(Nice try Richard -Ha! Post Up Please)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 13, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
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Fricking toasty in the Summer out there.
There are a myriad of boulders peppered around out there too.
mythically remote in a way for the whole area.
haven't climbed, but wanted to to.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 13, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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"Nice try Richard -Ha! Post Up Please"
Can't!! Marty has all my east side photos for guidebook endeavors. (Buttermilks too, Ken). I may have a few stray prints around though -- I'll look.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Jul 13, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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Got any Photos of "Gutter Ball"?
That big blood stain that Fred Feldman left?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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The second picture is my first attempt on Gutterball. Eventually finished it with Al Dude. Great climb I thought.
Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
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I found some more photos.
Errett leading Right Up My Alley.
Don't remember the name of this one. Could be Grant leading.
Looks like Richard Large to me.
Might be Yosemite Sam.
Don't remember.
Schultz on Cantalope.
This is at nearby Wild Cow Canyon.
Same place.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 05:50pm PT
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Coincidentally...I was out there with my husband and Bruckman (Boogles, Boogleman, Bruckles, etc., etc. however you know the one-armed bat) weekend before 4th of July. It looked like no one had been out there for a long time. We found and slid down the South trail, went a bit too far, slogged back up in the pumice dust and then hiked along the base of the rocks for a ways. It's pretty overgrown and we went for a while before we could find something recognizable in the guide (latest Mammoth guide).
The guys did "Clark Kent" (we didn't have a lot daylight left so only one climb). It was shady so temps ok but would've been a b&^#$%& in the sun. North parking area trail is much better (still really faint) so we know for next time to use that one. Beautiful area, only passed a forest service worker on the roads...seemed nice and remote if that's what you're after.
Sage Hen Summit area is on the other side of the 120 - went out there too and did the Hair Raiser Buttress which was a blast.
Meant to post myself and see if anyone had been to Dexter lately!
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:01pm PT
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crusher. You are now a member of the exclusive Poin Dexter Club.
Ken -- nice shot of Mister P. He's a Wild Cow for sure.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
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Hey I'm honored, thanks. I'll try to post the pics when I get home. At work now daydreaming about about being __ (anywhere else). TGIF!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:09pm PT
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man o man this all looks so fantastico.
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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Chicken Skinner... I'm driving with caution here because Memory Lane if full of potholes, but...
The photo you list as "maybe Grant leading" -- Door Into Summer, a real beauty. Some one's butt (maybe Grant's) is leading.
"Looks like Mr. Large to me" is actually Mr. Feldman I believe.
Yosemite Sam -- definitely not but I don't know what it is. Sam is one of the prettiest corners there and I would recognize it for sure.
You "don't remember" -- looks like Vapor Lock to me. Someone with a Large ass is belaying you.
Caveat Emptor.
In the next-to-last photo in the first batch, it looks like you dropped your lollipop.
Dexter is remote, wild, quiet, beautiful, but sport climbers would probably rather go to the gym. Rock quality varies widely. Do the multi-starred routes and you won't deal with any vertical dirt.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jul 14, 2006 - 06:42pm PT
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Was out there last summer and not a sign of anyone around. A welcome refresher. Not sure about Wild cow canyon but I used to spend some time climbing in North canyon just south of the 120, North canyon, south of the 120???
JB
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2006 - 12:57pm PT
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Crusher,
I would like to see those photos. Did you like Clark Kent? It is cool that some people are going out there. It is hard to find the routes but, that is part of the adventure.
Emmett, I think you are right, your memory is faring better than mine. It does look like a lollipop. I know I have more photos, haven't found them yet.
Tarbuster you would love it.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 15, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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Hi Ken,
As soon as I figure out how to post them I will - I'm one of those retards who is having trouble with photo bucket!
I didn't get to do the climb : ( - we ran out of time, but the guys thought it was really fun and that the rock was great. Hope to go back later this Summer...heard the Bachar crag to the north was really good too. We loved the whole area and the view out to Boundary Peak.
(Off the subject of Dexter but in the general area I loved the Hair Raiser Buttress and I wasn't leading so I got to relax!!)...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 15, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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Nice place out there...I put up a bunch of routes to the left of those pics on a slightly overhanging flat pocketed wall. Excellent rock quality...I'll try to dig up some photos!
Cheers, jb
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
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John, Those routes look good. I never put a bolt in out there because I was afraid 1/4" bolts would not hold in that volcanic rock.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 15, 2006 - 09:02pm PT
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also,
jb,
there was maybe a boreal add back in the 80's which featured you solo on some of that action?
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 30, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Just testing (better late than never) if it works I'll put up a few more!
Boogleman leading the second pitch of "Clark Kent".
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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Jul 30, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
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Nice -- CK, one of my favorites at DC. Yosemite Sam, Door Into Summer and Vapor Lock are all very good too.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 30, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
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And here are a few from Sagehen Summit (Hair Raiser Buttress)
That's Dexter Canyon in the background
Check out the "teeth" on the walk off!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 30, 2006 - 06:59pm PT
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Hey Ken.....just saw the photo of Gutterball.....sweet! Burly - good lead!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
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Hey Al,
Thanks, you were there and came up with the name. How are you?
Richard, other worthy routes are Honorable Discharge, Gutterball, Bowling For Keeps, and I remember Right Up My Alley being good as well.
Crusher, Thanks for posting the photos, I have done Clark Kent 3-4 times but, not for awhile. Makes me want to go back again. The photos of Sagehen Summit is that on Sagehen Summit proper on the East side toward Benton? I recall doing one or two routes on the East face and don't remember what we called them.
Ken
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jul 31, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
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Yo Ken....hangin in there. Remember those bats flying out of that fissure - I was semigripped on the follow....wiggy!! I remember goin there w/Bachar,Shultz & Co.......Gravity was the runout Barnburner near Bowling for Keeps, right?
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jul 31, 2006 - 09:09pm PT
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Ken,
The Sagehen Summit "crag" is out the 120 East past where you turn off for Dexter (maybe another ten minutes?) and I'm pretty sure it's past where you see the sign noting the actual "summit". Really beautiful area out there and the views from atop the climb(s) are amazing! The new Mammoth area guide has a bunch of routes listed, mostly they're on the East (right) side of the whole crag, if I remember correctly.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2006 - 09:32pm PT
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Crusher,
I always thought Hair Raiser Butress was in Granite Basin. I could be wrong my memory is fading.
Sorry Al I can't remember without revisiting the area but, I beleive you are right.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Ken,
I think the whole general area is called Granite Basin, so you are correct! I guess where the climbs are is considered the "Sagehen Summit area". Book is in the car at the moment so I can't look it up. Not to split hairs anyway - it's totally cool out there and I'd love to find time to go back to both places!
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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FA of Clark Kent...
FA of Dagwood...
Two views of Chicken Skinner on the FA of Tumbleweed...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 11:50am PT
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Richard,
I am so ashamed, I have tape on my hands. Perhaps it was for protection against the bats.
Ken
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Richard Large
climber
where you least expect
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No, I believe we were recovering from Epidermal Anthrax Ichymosis -- a condition most commonly contracted from contact with barnyard animals. Good thing our clothing covers up most of the bandages.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 12:10pm PT
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More than likely from constant contact with leather ski gloves.
Ken
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Cool photos! The bats are still there, right under that big flake on the wall to the left of the bottom of KC. They were quite vocal.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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Found a few more photos. Here is one of Richard Large on some first ascent.
First ascent of Vaporlock.
Grant Hiskes and I checked out Lower Dexter Canyon one day and did these two climbs.
Here is one of Grant on something in North Canyon.
Ken
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 12, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
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Bump for a cool old thread
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 12, 2010 - 08:03pm PT
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how often do people get out there you think?
Last time I went was two years ago. It could be the best crack crag on the Eastside.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 12, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
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The original post asks if people still climb here- anyone?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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Where's cow canyon?
No love for the Dexter canyon thread- perhaps everyone is a grammer stickler turned off by the incorrect use of the possessive in the orginal post.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jan 13, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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bachar and i climbed there a bit in 86, 87, 88...
not sure what we climbed but it was mostly the cracks and top roping the stepper faces..
kurt
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 13, 2010 - 01:23pm PT
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Very cool thread!
Thanks for bumping this...never saw this originally, so it was cool to check out.
Cheers!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2010 - 01:40pm PT
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Tom,
I think you mean Wild Cow Canyon which is to the south and slightly west of Dexter. Thanks for the spelling correction. There is some really good climbing hidden away out there. Glad to see that some are climbing there.
Ken
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 02:23pm PT
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wild cow canyon, I'll look for it.
I'm not sure why this area is so obscure, maybe not enough bolts. It's not much farther off the beaten track than Clark's or those areas.
What did you guys think of the rock quality for placing pro?
The climbs I did were in pretty hard stuff that I think would have been fine if I had fallen, but there is also some of that grainier volcanic stuff that we see out here.
I really wanted to do that two pitch climb that you show in the pictures. Holy smokes that thing looks good, if the rock is good of course. It was pretty intimidating looking.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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I've been curious about those pinker cliffs in Taylor. I guess they are not tall enough to be worth the effort?
They look good though.
I like getting info from others to steer my wanderings a bit better.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 06:08pm PT
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Cool place and off the beaten track. The Bachar wall had some bolts but I remember the rest of it was all trad - walk-offs, etc.
It's nice and quiet.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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The Bachar wall has a 12 with 4 bolts in a good sized climb. I always liked the way that guy thought, even though I don't want to do his routes.
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Jan 13, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
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Cool place - never saw this thread..
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 13, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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I take that back, I want to do Bachar routes, but I'm too scared.
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pyrosis
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 14, 2010 - 01:37am PT
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My impression of the place was that it would really benefit from at least one route having rap anchors added. The way it is now it takes like 30 minutes of unpleasant walking to get back to the base after climbing one of the routes. I'm all down with gear anchors and all, I just think more people would enjoy the place if there were a way to rap down. Although maybe (?) you could fix a single line and rap all the way to the base from the top? Anyone know how high these things are?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 14, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Rap anchors might help, but where do you put them? There is a lot of cliff out there. I bet, once you got the hang of the place and could spot climbs from above, you could set up your own rap anchor for the day and clean your gear when you go home at night.
Getting to the top of the climbs seems kind of sketchy, with sand and pine needles.
If rap anchors wouldn't work, easier to find trails might. That just takes familiarity and perhaps a bit of use.
I bet the number of parties out there each year is under five.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 02:02pm PT
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Grant and I checked out those cliffs in Taylor Canyon and they were plenty tall enough. The cracks were impressive but the rock quality seemed a little bit suspect. My standards may have changed. We also saw some very large, fresh cat tracks while hiking up to the cliffs and on the way back down. We felt we were being followed and got really spooked. I never went back.
We were doing some of the first routes on volcanic rock in the Mammoth area and I wouldn't trust a 1/4" bolt in that stuff. I stuck with the crack lines that appeared to have the best rock and sewed it up. Some of the Dexter routes are superb. The routes are steep and offer three dimensional crack climbing. One drawback is that nearly every route has about a ten foot section of chossy rock missing the patina. I recall there being some trees on top and I would think you could use these for anchors to rapell back down if you wanted to. I never did place any bolts in Dexter. The cliffs are between 150-200 feet tall. There is an awesome camp site on top too.
Ken
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:11pm PT
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Made the trip out there a couple years ago and didn't see another soul while we were there. We had climbed Hair Raiser that morning so by the time we drove to Dexter, got the car parked and finally found our way down to the base of the cliff, it was a little late in the day to do much. Hope to go back one day soon.
Here's a few pics though to whet the appetite.
-n
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:31pm PT
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
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Peter- are those the taylor canyon crags?
That volcanic stuff can take some getting used to, but thanks to guys like ken and grant and that gang, we've all climbed this stuff a fair amount.
I'm still not too sure about gear in these cracks. I've done some crack climbing at the gorge but, I still don't have a lot of confidence in the rock quality. That being said the volcanic cracks can be pretty good, though there are often cheater face holds.
I'll cruise out that way come summer and check out taylor up close. I keep thinking there will be granite bouldering around the Benton Crossing/120 Junction.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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That is definitely not the main part of Dexter Canyon. Here is the main section.
All those canyons have outcroppings.
Ken
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jan 15, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Exploring is a blast, but so far all I ever find is stuff that you guys found years ago. At least its still clean and obscure. I have yet to find the bitchen untouched crag out here, though there are some good ones.
Sometimes I think that if an area was great we'd know about it already, other times I hope that stuff was missed. It's all about having enough time.
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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Jeez Errett, I didn't know there were so many routes there. Some of the names were unfamiliar. Did we do those? Nice to see the photos.
Ken
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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I went out there this past fall to get a few quards of Lodge Pole. I need to check it out on of these summers. I love the Paradise Forks, the overlook in AZ. I need to get back there too
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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errett, ken , thanks fer the new pics of DC .. havent been there in years.
BT
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 1, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
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Hey Bill, How are you?
Ken
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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Golly Ken -- there's a lot more routes than that out there. I don't have (or just can't find) photos of all of them. Aside from you, I did routes with Slate, Cole, Feldman and others. "Slate" -- now there's a name for a rock climber! Like my other old buddies, Joe Granite, Neil Gniess and Gunter Schist.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Door into summer looks sweet. I can't wait to get back up there. We shall see when I can. It's not all that great of a spot to bring the kid. The climbs are long and for real and the base isn't sandy and flat like we always dream about.
I can explore with the kid okay. Can't wait for spring.
This is one of my favorite threads by the way, along with the climbing in the panamints, and the Karma and Southern Belle threads.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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great contribution errett, that's what a camera is good for! love the wild geometry out there. singular lines that look to demand real versatilty. why the hell didn't you drag me out there whaaay back when? well i'm peeking through your lense now. cheers guy
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errett
Social climber
Grumpy Ridge
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hi hooblie! yes those Dexter lines frequently involved changing corners and a wildly different crack size and rock quality every 10 feet. Plus doing FA's there almost always involved taking dirt showers as you wiped off sand from the ledge above you. As to why I didn't drag you there -- we were too busy searching for our roots down past Glen Aulin.
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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there's a campfire story for the tellin, eh?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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bump. Got Grant here and we looked at all the photos. We don't remember a single one.
Ken
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 25, 2010 - 07:28am PT
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hey there ken/chicken skinner, how funny (as to your post)... say, thanks for the bump... these are always so nice to see...
:)
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 25, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Say hi to Grant for me.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 11, 2017 - 10:00pm PT
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jb,
there was maybe a boreal add back in the 80's which featured you solo on some of that action?
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Apr 12, 2017 - 01:23am PT
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I remember that ad. I had a couple pairs of those aces, my favorite shoes ever.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Apr 12, 2017 - 07:25am PT
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Dexter Canyon was a great find. Some of the routes like door into summer and yosemite sam would be classics anywhere
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Apr 19, 2017 - 10:09am PT
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