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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Aug 20, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
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So now you are eye'ing a retro-bolt botch job of some of Coiler's routes too?
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 20, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Moof,
You have every opportunity to walk up to Eric at the bridge and make comments like this face to face.
My question is...do you?
Or is Supertopo your sole chestbeating platform?
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Aug 20, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Lots of people including myself have asked Eric to stop power drilling on others routes, he just ignores them and continues to place useless bolts. Dude just loves the smell of his own farts.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 20, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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50 years and nothing changes in the valley. At least its not as bad a surfing a locals break.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 20, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Oh, a bolt discussion? How unique.
Hmmm, can't we all get along?
Anyone wondering where those fingers have been?
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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Yo Moof--thanks for the bump ;)
I don't have any plans to climb this route--Roger and I are making a bigwall book to Yosemite that will include close to 400 routes. This was just an example of an FAist that really missed the boat on getting people to his route; and an example of what you can expect from the new book.
Thank you to all the people who keep sending me updates to the out-of-print topos and new topos.
best,
erik
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 21, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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I think having that sort of detail on the topo would be great. I've certainly wasted a lot of time finding the start before!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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Lots of people including myself have asked Eric to stop power drilling on others routes, he just ignores them and continues to place useless bolts. What are we talking about here. I've heard this criticism before but am curious as to some examples.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Aug 21, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
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Examples? The third pitch of the Nose is a good one. Eric placed a bolt next to a small pocket that takes gear, he decided that it wasn't a good enough placement and put in an aid bolt, when I confronted him about it I was told that if people didn't want to use the bolt they could place gear in the pocket instead. I asked if gear could be placed why the Bolt? No answer was given.
Another example, Eric decided to cut trees on the approach to El Cap because the branches were getting stuck on haul bags along the trail. This caused problems with the NPS, Jesse even posted up on ST about it. Yes he has replaced a lot of Anchor Bolts, using a power drill, Dude in no way should represent climbers at the bridge.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 21, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Clearly an evil man.
Let's sh#t on his ropes
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Aug 21, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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Any idea when you will finish the book ? I'd love to check it out...
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 21, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Hey Bulwinkle, you've been bitching about that bolt for years. But it's still there, and everyone clips it.
Go figure?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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^^^
People are lazy. Doesn't make it right. Plus, they wouldn't clip it if it wasn't there.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 21, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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So you are too lazy to remove it, is what you are saying?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 21, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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Sorry dude. I'm, not the bolt police. However, that's pretty irrelevant to whether it should be there in the first place. Removing bolts is a slightly more involved process than, say, picking up someone else's trash. I was asking for examples of what others were griping about. I'm not on a crusade.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 22, 2013 - 10:08am PT
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Yes he has replaced a lot of Anchor Bolts, using a power drill, Dude in no way should represent climbers at the bridge.
Well if he is on the bridge he won't be replacing any bolts.
Just say'in
Plaid
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 23, 2013 - 01:21am PT
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Yes he has replaced a lot of Anchor Bolts, using a power drill, Dude in no way should represent climbers at the bridge.
I happen to like Erik and I think he is a perfect guy to represent climbers at the bridge. Super friendly to everyone and helpful and encouraging. Couldn't think of a better guy to be there. Very knowledgeable and approachable.
Thanks Erik for your hard work on the book. The reason I buy a guidebook is to get key info like:
How to find the route! Where it is so I don't have to waste time.
Gear recommendations.
And how to get off the route I want to climb. Is it a walk off or do I rap.
It the book doesn't have that info. It's crap.
Plaid
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 23, 2013 - 09:48am PT
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I'm looking forward to buying a copy of the guidebook. Its been a long time since someone has put in the effort to do a more comprehensive guide.
If you want to bitch about adding bolts, etc., maybe talk to the person directly or start up a new thread specifically about that topic. Thanks.
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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