new bigwall topo example: FAist please check this out

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Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 20, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Yo Gang,

Once you decide you want to get off the beaten track in bigwallin, the hardest part can be finding the base of a route. Obscure walls or sections of walls tend to all look the same, grassy and obscure. Faist often don't help out when they make a topo for their route, assuming that folks will want to tool around like they did to check out the lines and sniff out their route.

Here is an example of a route my friends put up on Wall of Ages, Age of Exploration. If you click on the History tab you can see Coiler's original topo, which starts 200' off the ground on a free route from a guidebook that's been out of print since 2000.

If you're putting up routes, please take the extra time to really show the base area.

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/age-exploration

best,
erik
yosemitebigwall.com
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Aug 20, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
So now you are eye'ing a retro-bolt botch job of some of Coiler's routes too?
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 20, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Moof,

You have every opportunity to walk up to Eric at the bridge and make comments like this face to face.

My question is...do you?

Or is Supertopo your sole chestbeating platform?
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Aug 20, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Lots of people including myself have asked Eric to stop power drilling on others routes, he just ignores them and continues to place useless bolts. Dude just loves the smell of his own farts.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Aug 20, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
50 years and nothing changes in the valley. At least its not as bad a surfing a locals break.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Aug 20, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Oh, a bolt discussion? How unique.










Hmmm, can't we all get along?



Anyone wondering where those fingers have been?



Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2013 - 10:44am PT
Yo Moof--thanks for the bump ;)


I don't have any plans to climb this route--Roger and I are making a bigwall book to Yosemite that will include close to 400 routes. This was just an example of an FAist that really missed the boat on getting people to his route; and an example of what you can expect from the new book.

Thank you to all the people who keep sending me updates to the out-of-print topos and new topos.

best,
erik
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Aug 21, 2013 - 11:43am PT
I think having that sort of detail on the topo would be great. I've certainly wasted a lot of time finding the start before!
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Lots of people including myself have asked Eric to stop power drilling on others routes, he just ignores them and continues to place useless bolts.
What are we talking about here. I've heard this criticism before but am curious as to some examples.
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Aug 21, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Examples? The third pitch of the Nose is a good one. Eric placed a bolt next to a small pocket that takes gear, he decided that it wasn't a good enough placement and put in an aid bolt, when I confronted him about it I was told that if people didn't want to use the bolt they could place gear in the pocket instead. I asked if gear could be placed why the Bolt? No answer was given.

Another example, Eric decided to cut trees on the approach to El Cap because the branches were getting stuck on haul bags along the trail. This caused problems with the NPS, Jesse even posted up on ST about it. Yes he has replaced a lot of Anchor Bolts, using a power drill, Dude in no way should represent climbers at the bridge.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Aug 21, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Clearly an evil man.

Let's sh#t on his ropes
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Aug 21, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
Any idea when you will finish the book ? I'd love to check it out...
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 21, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Hey Bulwinkle, you've been bitching about that bolt for years. But it's still there, and everyone clips it.

Go figure?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
^^^
People are lazy. Doesn't make it right. Plus, they wouldn't clip it if it wasn't there.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 21, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
So you are too lazy to remove it, is what you are saying?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
Sorry dude. I'm, not the bolt police. However, that's pretty irrelevant to whether it should be there in the first place. Removing bolts is a slightly more involved process than, say, picking up someone else's trash. I was asking for examples of what others were griping about. I'm not on a crusade.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 22, 2013 - 02:05am PT
I was asking for examples of what others were griping about.
Here's an example from 4/2010 - added bolts on the Great Slab Route:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1384195&tn=40
Credit: Gene
Credit: Gene
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Aug 22, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Yes he has replaced a lot of Anchor Bolts, using a power drill, Dude in no way should represent climbers at the bridge.

Well if he is on the bridge he won't be replacing any bolts.

Just say'in

Plaid
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Hi,

Thanks for your replies. First to the on topic ones:

Jeff is pulling your leg about following the beer cans through the thicket, though he had an interesting time trying to repeat Hole in the Sky, believing as he did that he produced Hole in the Head in the process. Who knows!lol

I hope folks drawing topos in the future will really go out of their way to include nearby features/routes. It can be much more difficult to find obscure routes than you think.

To the off-topic posts:
What happened to the witch hunt for Tommy Caldwell adding bolts to Mescalito and New Dawn? Or how about Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera adding belays and bolts in the middle of a pitch on Mahtah, their recent freeclimb on Liberty Cap? Didn't go anywhere? Just like the squabbling over the bolt on the Nose,lol--you think Warren Harding climbed the Nose in the style that you had to before I added that bolt, doing a 5.10 move or super-reachy cam placement? Hell no! He would laugh at you guys and say what I'm saying 'you all need to get laid more and lighten up'. I've made plenty of mistakes, and I always encourage others to go check things out and do what they think is right. Cheers!

erik
yosemitebigwall.com
Robert L

climber
Aug 23, 2013 - 12:58am PT
Erik

You shouldn't be comparing what you do, to what Tommy Caldwell gets up to on cutting edge routes.

And you probably shouldn't try to quote Harding as approving your efforts.

Bummer that you use a power drill. Any plans to stop doing such?

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