keep tahoe Bold.

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 281 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 14, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
sorry if i offended you, but the log is nowhere near 'ready to launch'. you could yard on it all you want it's not gonna budge at this point.


but back on topic, what is the reason for this topic? is there bolting going on recently somewhere or just someone throwing salt in old wounds? pretty much everywhere i go there is either pro or bolts, but rarely both. course i haven't been around long.
Dr. Christ

Mountain climber
State of Mine
Aug 14, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
You didn't offend me. I only go to 90' about once every couple years. The snag seemed unstable to me and others when I was there about a month ago, with a big break about 1/4 of the way from the top. There were several families below, so I didn't test it... but I'm pretty sure I could send it with a little effort.

I think Wegi is just bored.
Blizzard

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
what is the boldest route in tahoe? which routes set the bar for bold?
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Keep
Tahoe
Woo

who's with me?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
what is the boldest route in tahoe? which routes set the bar for bold?

Anything at Luther Spires.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
The Gunks has had established rappel routes for the last 10 or 15 years that usually go right through good climbs. The walk off trails on the ridge are now overgrown in a lot of places. I hate this.

I totally agree. I learned to climb at The Gunks, and the walk off was always beautiful. It never occurred to us to rap. I mean, why would someone want to do a thing like that?

A few years ago I was back climbing with Williams, Holtkamp and Yoho (boy was that an interesting posse,) and there were all these rap routes. There were people dangling all over the place.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
what is the boldest route in tahoe? which routes set the bar for bold?
the unnamed bolted chimney at eagle lake. some of the bolts are almost 5' apart.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 14, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
What does every climb have to be bold?
Why the assumption that Tahoe was bold to begin with?

I think there are/were a lot of bold climbers who climb in Tahoe, but a lot of Tahoe's rock has great cracks and a lot of the trad routes are not bold, but moderate and well-protectable. Similarly sport areas like Big Chief have well-protected clip-up routes that have been around quite a while. Like most areas I've ever been to, there are some bold climbs and a lot of less-than-bold routes. You pick your poison.

This idea seems a very elitist and unrealistic view of the area, imo.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
You've further my point, Ron. Jay Smith and others have put up many bold routes in more areas than just Tahoe. Their perception of what a route should be shaped the climb, not the rock itself. They also didn't put up routes in specific walls in these areas because it didn't live up to their level of what they wanted to climb. Yet others did - and now Tahoe has a variety of routes, both well-protected by any standards as well as heady test-pieces.

I still fail to see the logic.

jghedge

climber
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:21pm PT

"walk off."


The tops of most sport crags never get touched except by the developers.

Bolt anchors are more impact than trails from the top back down to the base?

No.

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
Bolt anchors are more impact than trails from the top back down to the base?

That, like most things to do with climbing is entirely situational. There are plenty of areas where walk-offs cause all sorts of problems like erosion, rockfall, damage to delicate plants and intrusion on wildlife to name a few. There are other areas, and I would include The Gunks, where the walk-offs are beautiful and pose no such problems. Unless eating handfuls of wild blueberries on the way down is damaging to the environment.
Dr. Christ

Mountain climber
State of Mine
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
^ says a guy who no longer climbs
jghedge

climber
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:41pm PT

"That, like most things to do with climbing is entirely situational."


Inarguably though, lowering off/rapping causes far less impact (basically none) compared to walking off, except in the rare circumstance when you're walking on bare rock the entire way.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
at shakespeare rock, some are bold (not really yet though)
Credit: i'm gumby dammit


and others are bowld
jasmyn gets buzzed by angry owl
jasmyn gets buzzed by angry owl
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
jghedge

climber
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:44pm PT


"whilst the approaches usually wind up causing major change eh..?"


What alternatives do you suggest for the approaches?

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 14, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
don't think i got on it. pretty much everything i got on there is here - http://www.aboutlaketahoe.com/climbing/shakespeare-rock.htm
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Weedge was just trolling anyway.

But, yeah, I've never climbed at Shakespeare rock. I'm not a fan of choss. I'm sure the FA's were bold endeavors, that pile looks like it would fall over if you sneezed on it.

Bold is new highball problems with no one else watching, a long way from the road.

Bold is soloing something you've never seen before. Again, with no one else watching, a long way from the road.

Boldness manifests itself in many ways.

Tahoe climbing is bold, some people just choose not to spray.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
There is some good rock there amongst the choss
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
I think we should strive to Keep Tahoe Classic, by preserving our gems in their natural state (or unnatural state - whatever the case maybe) and continuing the develop new routes that meet the level of awesomeness already established. The old and bold should be left as is because there is so much potential for new iconic lines. And while not every cliff needs to be climbed, expanding the area's ecosystem services like climbing is good for us all.

But I think bolts and bold can live in that world.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 14, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
chop every other bolt on alot of sport routes will be a good start to keeping tahoe bold.
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