Who is working at the El Cap bridge?


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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2013 - 10:09am PT
Well it's starting to feel like fall here in the Valley, pretty cold nights and more and more climbers are showing up.

6 teams on the Nose yesterday, two niads.

Someone is finally climbing Mescalito. A young american is going solo for the first ascent of '13. He's on 7 or 8 and moving strong.

A strong team is going for a two day ascent of Shortest Straw.

Lurking Fear had at least one team yesterday.

No one on Zodiac or the Trip, or Salathe/Triple D.

Git Sum!

Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Aug 27, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Hey Erik,

It was great to see in the valley this past June. So sorry I couldn't spend more time hanging at the bridge. Next time for sure! T'was a special evening when you yelled over to me from the rim while you were walking down from the Nose. It made for a relaxing night and had me looking forward to a drink at the bridge. Take care till I see you at the bridge next time.


Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 10:56am PT
Straw team bailed. No one east of Mescalito. Awesome sunset with some light fire haze. Nose is getting it all these days. Didn't see anyone over on Salathe. The Brits are up on Lurking Fear. Woot!

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
Crazy smokey here today but Mickey(aka Whitemeat) and Aaron charged at the NIAD like it was nothing. They were getting ready to do the King Swing when I left at 215. Woot!

The soloist on Mescalito is probably hauling up to Bismark now, day 7 or 8 and looking strong.

A team showed up moving good on the Zodiac, and a local team that had two fixed headed up there.

Werner says the west wind might make it smokey here for a couple days. Might be more fun to hit the coast.

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Any word from Mickey aka Whitemeat? I saw him leading the Great Roof an hour before dark. Woot!

Less smokey here today.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 1, 2013 - 10:41am PT
Yeah, I want to hear wether Micky and Aaron sent!

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
The push became shove I think, but they styled to the top this morning.

El Cap is rockin! You can really feel the difference when Sept. hits.

3 FA going down right now on obscure walls. Two teams on Zode, team on the Trip, Soloist still rockin Mescalito, regular Nose steadiness, one team low on Salathe.

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Sep 1, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Damn i miss that place!

So Erik, when can I expect to see you and the boy back at Martin Park?
Mark Sensenbach

Sep 1, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Nanook thank you for all the support for the boys. Great talking w you and all the crew at the bridge!
i think a tuolumne meadows ipa drip line would work too. :)

white meats pops

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Thanks Mark! Good times.

Things are pretty mellow for Sept. here. Perfect weather!

Big Wall climber
Sep 3, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Nanook, that first team on the Zodiac was My friend Will and myself, and it was my first big wall! any chance, you or anyone down on the bridge took any photos? If there were any taken from down there it would be much appreciated if we could see them!
Cheers, Norm

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 3, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
whitemeat report!

between the smoke,breif rain, and me having to lead 90%... we did it in 31 hours! I started with a pace of getting to sickle in 1.5 hours and finished with a pace of 30 minute pitches. it was way harder then I thought it could be but I will go back and crush it some other time!

trip report coming soon!!!!!

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 4, 2013 - 02:27am PT
Sweet! Can't wait to be driving south!

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 06:35am PT
Yo Norm good send!

Kenny Yager told me the other day that the YCA has a nice dslr now, so if we could only get a long lens we could be shooting from the bridge all year.

Things are slowing down a little on the Cap, but we still got a decent showing. Weather is perfect!

One team on Salathe, Couple on the Nose but pretty thin down low, Mescalito soloist topped out last night after 11 or 12 days woot!, Trip got a couple, Zodiac just emptied last night, Eagles Way got a couple.

If you like the Leaning Tower(or Warren Harding bolt ladders ;) and you're looking for an easy weekend wall on an outrageous formation, check out The Direct on Porcelain Wall:


cheers, erik

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 10:27am PT
Another full shade, off the beaten track classic with a shorter approach than the Porcelain:

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 4, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
[quote]easy weekend wall on an outrageous formation, check out The Direct on Porcelain Wall:


That sounds fun for future. You think it might be a good option for winter? Gets sun in the afternoon, or not much?

Thanks for posting

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
not much. And the approach would be pretty tough with a normal amount of snow and ice. It's perfect right now ;)

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Sep 5, 2013 - 12:22am PT
I saw Erik Sloan this morning in the Camp 4 parking lot. My partner and I had packs on heading for the Falls Trail. He asked what we were doing. I jokingly said "Power drilling a bunch of bolts on other peoples routes"

He said "right on!" "That's cool!"

What a douchebag

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 5, 2013 - 12:55am PT
hey man! eric is sure as hell no "douchebag". he is the most humble, cool person in yosemite! I assume your joking but just sayen!

Sep 5, 2013 - 01:06am PT
pretty clear anyone who uses the term "douche
bag" needs to work on their creativity-stuck in the 80's are we?

Did you have a bolt kit in those bags? What for?

also pretty clear Anyone that puts bolts at belays, drills lines of
holes up blank rock has many a bolt to stand on, but not a high ethical pillar
to call out from.

but while we are acting all preschool-what is wrong
with power drilling?

And do you think you own a rock cause you climbed
it first? That is a good one
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