Supertopo, be my mentor

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Messages 161 - 170 of total 170 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
my set up is usually the opposite of that. the belay directly to my harness and the the prusik (if i'm cleaning or planning to shoot pics or something) extended with a sling.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 26, 2015 - 06:23am PT
Opposite of most people but I'm going to try it next time myself as it looks like a great safe system. Mebbe with a kleimheist instead of a prussik. I'll try a few types of autolock knots and see what works for me.

Even us old timers learn new things and the more tools you have in the bag the better.

Regarding your post 3 above gumby..yeah..stuff like that really makes you careful. Climbing IS dangerous because no on can foresee every possible failure of a system everytime. You will be more careful about sharp edges and ropes running over each other from now on I'll bet.

jonnyrig

climber
Jan 26, 2015 - 06:32am PT
Can't think of how the rope could get above the cord and stay there long enough to burn through it somehow, unless some king of godawful twist got into it?
Not much skiing this year, huh?
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:35am PT
December was okay but then everything pretty much fell apart
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jan 26, 2015 - 06:35am PT
Hard to see for sure in the picture but I think those are the tails of the knot and it got sucked up through the biner by the rope.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:58am PT
no that's the middle of the equalette each strand had a locker attached which was also attached to the rope.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 26, 2015 - 07:07am PT
Climb2ski,
The klemheist works really well.

Gumby, this system is far better and safer than a prussic above the belay for the reasons that I mentioned above. It is a textbook system Its the math. Careful with your babies friend.
jonnyrig

climber
Jan 26, 2015 - 07:44am PT
Here's the only way I could get the rope to run against the equalette. 9/10 times, the biners simply righted themselves and all was good. It stuck this way just once. Your picture looks as though the rope ran over both strands of the cord though, which would imply that it got over the top somehow. Said it was hard to see the master point after the rope pulled it tight, so you didn't rap off after setting the anchor right? Just built it, tossed it off, and walked down?
Credit: jonnyrig
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 08:02am PT
yes couldn't see the master point and ashley just said 'Yes that's exactly what it looked like!'
And then it must have righted itself when i fell.


Looking closer though, when you look at my pic, the second strand is also slightly burned.
jonnyrig

climber
Jan 26, 2015 - 08:10am PT
Well shoot dude, glad it didn't burn clear through on ya. I saw the second strand burn too; but couldn't get my cord to reproduce contact with both strands unless I ran the rope entirely over the cord. Coulda been worse.
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