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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Nov 22, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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Hey Gumby! So it's raining down here and I stumbled into this You Tube series called Mike's Mail by Mike Barter. He's a Canadian guide and has some interesting babbling about anchors and other topics...Some of the points he makes are pretty relevant so you might want to just check it out just for sh#ts and giggles. I don't take any of this stuff as god's truth, but I'm trying to compact a missing 30 years of experience into a short period of time while keeping my day job. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it's hard to have fun when your dead, so all this information is somewhat watcher beware.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Nov 22, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
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Supertopo, be my mentor
Man. You're really lost!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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thanks skcreidc,
i had already watched all of mikes videos. liked them all. try and tell someone here or in the field that it's ok to rappel with your rope just through a nylon sling and see the reaction you get.
i'll look more into climbingtechtips but everything i've watched so far has been superglossy. One minute and 59 seconds on 'How to build a trad anchor' including the 20 second intro
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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thanks i'll go check it out.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 03:16pm PT
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so this was a new one for me today. i was using a equalette for a top rope anchor today. the bolts are on the edge of a cliff with lots of decomposed granite at the top so it's difficult to get a good look over after the rope pulls it tight. my partner climbed up most of the route and got to where the wall was blank and she couldn't get any higher. she said she thought lockers looked funny and was a bit worried. i lowered her and repeated the climb. i knew if she couldn't get up it i probably wouldn't either but i would just move over to the easier terrain on the right to check out the anchor. on the easier terrain i was cruising and not paying too much attention and i lost a foot on the polished rock and fell about 6'. no biggie so i climbed back up and as i approached the anchor the lockers looked ok but the equalette did not. i gingerly finished the route and got off belay. this was the equalette
the only thing i can think of is somehow the rope got on top of, or pinched around the cordalette and lowering ashley melted it. and then when i fell it somehow fixed the positioning of the lockers so they looked normal when i got to the top (i did notice before i moved over that they were in a weird position). any ideas what happened
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 25, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
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That's fuggly.
Hey Gumby,
How do you rappel? I suggest that you rappel with your belay device extended about 16". ( I like to use a shoulder length sling girth hitched through my tie in. That is followed by an auto block (prussic) to your tie in or belay loop.
This way both hands are on the brake/control side of the rope. Both hands are available for the work at hand ( rope tending, swings, etc.)Your prussic is easy to mind and is a load bearing rig.
This is common in Europe and for guiding. As a leader it also allows you to pre-rig the follower's rappel before descending from the anchor. The sling also works as a quick tie in at anchors.
Yer Gonna Die
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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my set up is usually the opposite of that. the belay directly to my harness and the the prusik (if i'm cleaning or planning to shoot pics or something) extended with a sling.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:23am PT
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Opposite of most people but I'm going to try it next time myself as it looks like a great safe system. Mebbe with a kleimheist instead of a prussik. I'll try a few types of autolock knots and see what works for me.
Even us old timers learn new things and the more tools you have in the bag the better.
Regarding your post 3 above gumby..yeah..stuff like that really makes you careful. Climbing IS dangerous because no on can foresee every possible failure of a system everytime. You will be more careful about sharp edges and ropes running over each other from now on I'll bet.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:32am PT
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Can't think of how the rope could get above the cord and stay there long enough to burn through it somehow, unless some king of godawful twist got into it?
Not much skiing this year, huh?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:35am PT
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December was okay but then everything pretty much fell apart
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 26, 2015 - 06:35am PT
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Hard to see for sure in the picture but I think those are the tails of the knot and it got sucked up through the biner by the rope.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 06:58am PT
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no that's the middle of the equalette each strand had a locker attached which was also attached to the rope.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:07am PT
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Climb2ski,
The klemheist works really well.
Gumby, this system is far better and safer than a prussic above the belay for the reasons that I mentioned above. It is a textbook system Its the math. Careful with your babies friend.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 07:44am PT
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Here's the only way I could get the rope to run against the equalette. 9/10 times, the biners simply righted themselves and all was good. It stuck this way just once. Your picture looks as though the rope ran over both strands of the cord though, which would imply that it got over the top somehow. Said it was hard to see the master point after the rope pulled it tight, so you didn't rap off after setting the anchor right? Just built it, tossed it off, and walked down?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2015 - 08:02am PT
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yes couldn't see the master point and ashley just said 'Yes that's exactly what it looked like!'
And then it must have righted itself when i fell.
Looking closer though, when you look at my pic, the second strand is also slightly burned.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jan 26, 2015 - 08:10am PT
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Well shoot dude, glad it didn't burn clear through on ya. I saw the second strand burn too; but couldn't get my cord to reproduce contact with both strands unless I ran the rope entirely over the cord. Coulda been worse.
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