Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
mason earle
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
|
Hi all. I'm looking for the name of a steep route on the far left side of Schultz's Ridge, left of Abazaba. The route was supposedly put up by a Kevin Andrews, but I have been able to find no info on him or the route. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers,
Mason Earle
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
|
So, to paraphrase:
1. Psycho Bitch, 4p aid route
2. Ain't That a Bitch 5.12
3. Dividing Line 5.13+, extension to Ain't That A Bitch
(area subject to spring/summer bird nesting closures; open now)
|
|
A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2013 - 12:44am PT
|
anybody have info on psycho bitch?
thanks!
scott
|
|
Johnny K.
climber
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2013 - 06:39am PT
|
"Starting off with a classic Dale Bard 5.12b pitch, the route then quickly escalates with a 5.13b finger crack, first freed by Mikey Schaeffer and named The Dividing Line. Schaeffer had urged Earle to check out the upper four pitches, and after spending roughly two months in the Valley this summer, Earle decided to take on the mission of unlocking the rest of the free climbing on Psycho Bitch."
"Earle managed to redpoint the entire six pitches, which now go free at 5.12b, 5.13b, 5.12a, 5.12c, 5.12d, 5.12c"
|
|
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
|
RAD!!!
 Luke
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2017 - 07:48pm PT
|
Bump.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2017 - 08:04pm PT
|
There is some really good rock up there! Dividing Line is still one of the better pitches I have ever done. The whole route really deserves some traffic.
|
|
mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 10:23am PT
|
I dug around and found an image by James Q Martin from the FFA of Dividing Line. When I did the FA I kinda wondered (at the time) if it was one of the harder all natural lines in Yosemite. Most of the hard crack climbing in the Valley has been nailed which I view as an unintended form of chipping. Things like Cosmic Debris, The Phoenix, the Stigma and everything on El Cap suffer from this. Now there is The Meltdown which sure seems like the hardest all natural crack climb. I suppose Magic Line is all natural as well but since it was done with pre placed gear and appears to climb more like a face climb I never felt that it was in the same category. Thoughts on what are the hardest all natural climbs in the Valley?
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 10:46am PT
|
Original route was put up by bad ass skier Kevin Andrews? That guy is truly bad ass. Never knew he climbed only knew him as a skier.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 01:31pm PT
|
Abazaba was put up by late Charlie Porter and the late Walt Rosenthal.
During their first ascent, someone during the night they bivvying on the wall was yelling for help down below somewhere.
There was a huge search for this person who was yelling for help and was never found.
His family put up a $25,000 reward for any information leading finding him as I remember.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
|
Thanks for finding and sharing that cool photo, Mikey!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!