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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 30, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
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84 posts and no one has mentioned Scuffy B, aka Mr. Smooth, aka Steve Moyles? Shame on us all.
More wide smack here.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jul 30, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
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I don't belong on any list like that.
I haven't done anything really hard, I haven't done any of the OW climbs with
serious reputation.
The ones I can do, I usually make them look easy. That's different.
Using a golf analogy, a lot of the people mentioned would be touring pros,
that is, playing and winning tournaments.
I would be more like a teaching pro. I can spot flaws in people's technique
and I can analyze pretty well.
I do have fun climbing OW, it's true.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 30, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
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The ones I can do, I usually make them look easy
And that's why we call him Mr. Smooth! So true, he does make them look deceptively easy.
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Jul 30, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
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Just thinking why Pat k. is not mentioned considering he is Pam's sidekick and ropegun :)
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Jul 30, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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I've climbed with PK an PSP at the same time once on the wide--Patrick definitely deserves to be mentioned as a modern wyde warrior who is helping to re-write the LIST.
Sometimes, it comes down to having the body and the will to endure this type of climbing...
...wish I had more will :-)
ps. Tom Kingsbury can invert his way up some hard shite, too!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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Imagine if we had not only the Brits but the old East Germany regime as competition. I can see those Germans breeding the super offwidth climber. Big fists and small knees, to the point where you could go from fist jamming directly to arm-barring or stacking with a knee in the crack...No calf-locking or other crappy-size techniques required.
I don't even know how they would exploit the invert...but you can bet they would.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Jul 30, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Imagine if we had not only the Brits but the old East Germany regime as competition. I can see those Germans breeding the super offwidth climber.
Fookin Hell, that reminds me I gotta email Joerg since I'll be in Germany in November.
One of the best threads ever on the widelove.
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=378.0
This thread needs more pictures.
In East Germany the protection ties you.
High above Indian Creek.
Rapping off a knot.
Why knot?
It's environmentally sativa, sensahtiva, sensitive, there we go.
One point should be enough.
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frisbee
climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
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Jul 31, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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Rapping off an offwidth sized knot? Move to the head of the class!
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MisterE
climber
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Jul 31, 2013 - 12:28am PT
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The hell with rope rugs!
I got me some new bail gear for trad climbing!
Now about that knot-work...
:)
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 31, 2013 - 12:29am PT
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84 posts and no one has mentioned Scuffy B, aka Mr. Smooth, aka Steve Moyles? Shame on us all.
But I did mention Steve (See post 71) I intentionally did not select a "best," however, because I'm not convinced that a satisfactory metric exists.
John
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 31, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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Nice stuff Goatboy.
PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:28am PT
The ones that used hex's for pro. It seems it has become more similar to sport climbing with the giant cams.
I tend to agree with the one who knows. Modern gear has made OW protection vastly more reasonable.
And this from another wise of wyde aswell.
Note also there has been no mention of the people who put up all the hard runout wide in the black canyon. A huge bunch of Wyde lore there!
Virtually every major route in the Black has OW to contend with. Some of those have become legendary some infamous. Besides Dunn and Wiggins and a handful of others one climber from Gunnison who pushed the absolute limits in the precam days was Chuck Grossman. Those who have heard of him know of what I speak.
This exchange cracked me up.
Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 30, 2013 - 08:50am PT
The best offwidth climber ever
The one having the most fun.
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:16am PT
SO ..
there are no good offwidth climbers.
Mad Props Eeyonkee I bow in respect Ya Stout Silverback.
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 31, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Shanti. No disrespect to all the others who are basically masters, but damn she dedicates hella time, energy and life towards her OW goals..
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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My vote goes to Randy Leavitt. I was living in So. Cal in the late '80s working on bad movies and a couple of climbers who said they knew Randy took me and a few friends out to some parking garage in the SF Valley (at about midnight), and showed us these crazy offhorribles that were really just spaces between the concrete beams in the roof (about 8 feet off the garage floor). Chalk everywhere. The story was Randy had used those to practice for his Leavittation stuff. I have no idea if these guys really knew Randy or what, but stacking in those roofs was the worst climbing experience I think I've ever had. Randy, you out there? I think it was in North Hollyweird.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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That pic of Philo's becomes more impressive if you realize that it is taken looking straight up and that whole thing is a giant roof, including that bottoming bombay OW v-slot that Chuck is just entering.
Edit: I belayed Rosholt on many attempts of that thing and even belayed Bryan Becker on a failed attempt, Chuck was a nut placing master.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Yo Greg. I just had my first trip to Squamish, spent a day climbing at Shalanay, and saw Pipeline for the first time. I don't know you too well, but you and I have hung out a little, so my impression is that you can be a little . . zany. But I have to ask you in regards to your onsight FFA of Pipeline. WHAT IN THE HELL WERE YOU THINKING? I cannot imagine looking at that burly beast and coming to the conclusion that going up there sans rope to check it out would be something that anyone would want to do. Especially given that it had not been freed yet.
Seriously though. Tell us a little about what the motivation was for such a standard-blowing ascent. It certainly blows my mind, although I suck at OW, but even Mr. Croft confirms upthread how amazing your climb was.
Thanks,
Brad White
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO
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philo:
Where's that climb? Are you the climber? Burly for surely.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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TWP That climb is Welcome to China 5.12, Taylor Canyon, Gunnison co. I'm pretty sure that pic of Phil's is of Chuck Grossman on the FA, taken by Allen Hill.
The route is to the right of the falling climber in this picture, the obvious big OW slot(sorry for the pic, a funky slide) This pic is of John Pearson on an early toprope attempt of the roof for Oh Mamma Mamma 5.10c (EB's, white painter pants, Whillans harness..... 1976)
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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After Steve Petro did "Fidler on the Roof" it was not repeated for twenty years. Sometimes these guys from outside areas are under represented in these "greatest" lists. Don't know if he was a particular expert at off width, however.
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