The best offwidth climber ever

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 198 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
He's around and active. FFA of the Owl roof as a teenager or something, '76? Boa too!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
These lists are kind of funny.

Where is Brad Jackson, or Scarpelli, Haston, or Honnold (2nd go send on Bellyful, making it look about 5.9)? Where is the mention of the young guns who don't even specialize but still onsight 12 and send 13 in the wide (Mason Earle as an example). Edl is pretty accomplished, along with plenty of others .

Anybody even remember that Jeff P did the second on Bellyful. Who's that? Exactly my point. Lots of people out there flying under the radar who are absolutely crushing in all disciplines.

As for "most accomplished". The Brits, easily. "Most Accomplished", in my book, doesn't equal the longest tick list, it implies performing at THE top standard of the day. And they are the only ones who've done that because they set the standard with Century Crack after crushing most every hard wide thing around in VERY quick efforts. They are the best, for now.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
I guess I should have added a few more disclaimers, elcapinyoazz. Although I did have Scarpelli on the list and also included the caveat of other climbers who we (me) just don't know about. Just having a little fun is all.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
What about Largo? Seems like I remember reading about the piasano overhang or some such thing.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
84 posts and no one has mentioned Scuffy B, aka Mr. Smooth, aka Steve Moyles? Shame on us all.

More wide smack here.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
I don't belong on any list like that.
I haven't done anything really hard, I haven't done any of the OW climbs with
serious reputation.
The ones I can do, I usually make them look easy. That's different.

Using a golf analogy, a lot of the people mentioned would be touring pros,
that is, playing and winning tournaments.
I would be more like a teaching pro. I can spot flaws in people's technique
and I can analyze pretty well.

I do have fun climbing OW, it's true.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
The ones I can do, I usually make them look easy

And that's why we call him Mr. Smooth! So true, he does make them look deceptively easy.
Bschmitz

Ice climber
pdx
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
Just thinking why Pat k. is not mentioned considering he is Pam's sidekick and ropegun :)
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
I've climbed with PK an PSP at the same time once on the wide--Patrick definitely deserves to be mentioned as a modern wyde warrior who is helping to re-write the LIST.


Sometimes, it comes down to having the body and the will to endure this type of climbing...


...wish I had more will :-)





ps. Tom Kingsbury can invert his way up some hard shite, too!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Imagine if we had not only the Brits but the old East Germany regime as competition. I can see those Germans breeding the super offwidth climber. Big fists and small knees, to the point where you could go from fist jamming directly to arm-barring or stacking with a knee in the crack...No calf-locking or other crappy-size techniques required.

I don't even know how they would exploit the invert...but you can bet they would.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 30, 2013 - 07:45pm PT


eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Imagine if we had not only the Brits but the old East Germany regime as competition. I can see those Germans breeding the super offwidth climber.

Fookin Hell, that reminds me I gotta email Joerg since I'll be in Germany in November.

One of the best threads ever on the widelove.

http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=378.0

This thread needs more pictures.



In East Germany the protection ties you.








High above Indian Creek.




Rapping off a knot.
Why knot?
It's environmentally sativa, sensahtiva, sensitive, there we go.
One point should be enough.




frisbee

climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Rapping off an offwidth sized knot? Move to the head of the class!
MisterE

climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
The hell with rope rugs!

I got me some new bail gear for trad climbing!

Now about that knot-work...

:)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
84 posts and no one has mentioned Scuffy B, aka Mr. Smooth, aka Steve Moyles? Shame on us all.

But I did mention Steve (See post 71) I intentionally did not select a "best," however, because I'm not convinced that a satisfactory metric exists.

John
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 31, 2013 - 07:11am PT
Nice stuff Goatboy.

PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley

Jul 30, 2013 - 09:28am PT
The ones that used hex's for pro. It seems it has become more similar to sport climbing with the giant cams.

I tend to agree with the one who knows. Modern gear has made OW protection vastly more reasonable.

And this from another wise of wyde aswell.

Note also there has been no mention of the people who put up all the hard runout wide in the black canyon. A huge bunch of Wyde lore there!


Virtually every major route in the Black has OW to contend with. Some of those have become legendary some infamous. Besides Dunn and Wiggins and a handful of others one climber from Gunnison who pushed the absolute limits in the precam days was Chuck Grossman. Those who have heard of him know of what I speak.




This exchange cracked me up.



Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road

Jul 30, 2013 - 08:50am PT
The best offwidth climber ever

The one having the most fun.


climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Jul 30, 2013 - 09:16am PT

SO ..

there are no good offwidth climbers.


Mad Props Eeyonkee I bow in respect Ya Stout Silverback.


Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Jul 31, 2013 - 07:14am PT
Shanti. No disrespect to all the others who are basically masters, but damn she dedicates hella time, energy and life towards her OW goals..
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 31, 2013 - 10:56am PT
MisterE

climber

The hell with rope rugs!

I got me some new bail gear for trad climbing!

Now about that knot-work...

Not as easy as it looks.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey's_fist

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.php



philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 31, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Credit: philo
Cam Burns

Social climber
CO
Jul 31, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
My vote goes to Randy Leavitt. I was living in So. Cal in the late '80s working on bad movies and a couple of climbers who said they knew Randy took me and a few friends out to some parking garage in the SF Valley (at about midnight), and showed us these crazy offhorribles that were really just spaces between the concrete beams in the roof (about 8 feet off the garage floor). Chalk everywhere. The story was Randy had used those to practice for his Leavittation stuff. I have no idea if these guys really knew Randy or what, but stacking in those roofs was the worst climbing experience I think I've ever had. Randy, you out there? I think it was in North Hollyweird.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 1, 2013 - 08:24am PT
That pic of Philo's becomes more impressive if you realize that it is taken looking straight up and that whole thing is a giant roof, including that bottoming bombay OW v-slot that Chuck is just entering.

Edit: I belayed Rosholt on many attempts of that thing and even belayed Bryan Becker on a failed attempt, Chuck was a nut placing master.
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