The best offwidth climber ever

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 198 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:53am PT
Brutus of Wyde
squishy

Mountain climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:55am PT
what about that one dude who sh#t his pants? A for effort?
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Jul 30, 2013 - 01:55am PT
RIP Brutus of Wyde
WBraun

climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:01am PT
Off-width

A very difficult discipline to master ......
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:14am PT
it is surprisingly calming to watch scuffyb messing around on the offwidth at the Pacific Edge climbing gym. Left side in, make a few moves and reach a state of relaxed zen something. Few more moves up then reverse down. Right side in, relax an inch off the ground then make a few moves and relax 10 feet off the ground. It can go on for quite a while, every move mastered quietly and slowly.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:16am PT
Leavitt... c'mon, son!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:17am PT
Scruffy slowly vanished into a crack up on Mt Woodson somewhere an i have not seen him since, i hope he had food and water,
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:35am PT
Pamela Shanti Pack.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Jul 30, 2013 - 02:46am PT
The first time I really felt outcast as a climber was when I started off-widthing. Gotta love the wide.



And yeah, Pratt was the MAN.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 30, 2013 - 07:41am PT
Brutus was the most inspiring, which overall is better than the best.
Em Knot is next in line for the most inspiring go getter.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 07:52am PT
Leaving Randy Leavitt off of the initial list is a big oversight (and corrected). I wish I'd had met Brutus.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Jul 30, 2013 - 08:14am PT
Offwidth is like a bar fight. Who would I want to have my back? Scarpelli.. and the Brits.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jul 30, 2013 - 08:27am PT
I wonder how the legendary John Turner would of climbed if he had sticky rubber BITD.

His climb Repentance,done in 1958, with Art Gran, on Cathedral Ledge was way ahead of it's time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 30, 2013 - 08:40am PT
I cleaned about 50 feet of thinner crach and 500 lbs of dirt to reach the wide country. I had dirt in my mouth, down my shirt, in my eyes, in my ears and hair, plus it was an emotional time. I was not up to the Wyde Country to which I had secured free climbing access. And frankly I never had any intention of tackling that ensuing wideness.

I lowered off.

Then I had the pleasure of seeing Scuffy B do the first ascent of that wide crack, followed shortly after by Jaybro.

And interesting study in contrasts.

There is no best. There is only do... or not.

Those two, DO.

But you know what? Pitch 2 awaits their tender mercies...

DMT
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 30, 2013 - 08:48am PT
oh crap, we forgot about Yoda Milktoast.
protour

Trad climber
Concord, CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:10am PT
Steve Schneider onsighted 5.12+ offwidths on Excalibur, seems like a worthy contender
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 09:33am PT
I don't get the whole sticky rubber thing as being a big advance for offwidth climbing. Big cams, of course, but sticky rubber? You're not climbing offwidth correctly if sticky rubber is going to make a big difference in how you climb the wide.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 30, 2013 - 10:04am PT
Hey Greg, I went for my first attempt at Pipeline the other day (not solo).
Your FFA is legendary around Squamish, but no one can really appreciate the story behind it until they get up there.
The fact that you climbed that in '79, let alone you climbing it without a rope or gear, is insane.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 30, 2013 - 10:17am PT
There are many best ow climbers relative to the time they climbed.
Original eeyonkee list can be good base. I would add already mentioned Mark Klemens and Randy Leavitt
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Thanks, SoloClimber. I would argue that offwidth is the easiest type of climbing to solo. You pretty much can't get off route and you generally have lots of points of contact with the rock. Soloing a face climb or thin crack at the same grade is much scarier IMO.
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