The first solo climbing on Reticent Wall

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 46 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
I remember that day, and watching Dean leading some nailing pitches up to Lay Lady Ledge. I had forgotten about Silvia Vidal's solo. Was it the second ascent? She was rumoured to have drilled a bat hook hole or chipped something. I do knott know if it is true.

Gigi - I have made eight lonely ascents of El Cap. I am already old and a little shabby. But I keep climbing El Cap - route #49 this spring. If you are already old and a little shabby like me, it is a great place to climb!

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
She was rumoured to have drilled a bat hook hole or chipped something.

I heard she drilled and put a bolt in... but, not sure how accurate that is.

...and watching Dean leading some nailing pitches up to Lay Lady Ledge.

He lead the first seven up to LLL clean in about 3.5 hours. The pitch I was talking about was higher just before sunrise, the next day.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
I heard some chickenshit drilled rivets in Lost In America. What a pussy he must have been.

When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat. The rumours I heard regarding Silvia were never conclusively proved. Anyway, she can climb circles round me.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
Grant had the portaledge ready when I arrived so we ate and slept while hanging off a single threaded quarter inch shortie.


I did an early ascent of The Shield and on the sling belay just below Chickenhead ledge, at the most exposed part of the headwall, Mike Lechlinski and I had to haul and jumar and lead off a singel, threaded 1/4 shortie shortie sans hanger, meaning I had to slip a keyhole hanger over that coffin nail and clip into that f*#ker. Man, when Mike lead off that belay I just stared at that one bolt trying to will the mofo in place as Mike lead off on a big ass string of rivets.

Thing can get hairy up there in hurry when them anchors are sketch.

JL
Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
first off, this photo is fvcking awesome , especially given the story pete told, first wall, solo , AMA ( against medical advice , or against valley advice in this case ) , homemade topo , etc
its great that a guy can look that happy in that situation on THAT pitch solo.

Humar is my new hero
Humar is my new hero
Credit: ptpp

second , this photo is fvcking awesome , on it's own certainly , but again ESPECIALLY given what you crazy fvckers just pulled off

these dudes are either union painters on a 34 hour lunch break , or th...
these dudes are either union painters on a 34 hour lunch break , or they are in a cult
Credit: ammon

was this fashion choice the trendsetting inspiration for Aaron Jones' super sexy modeling shoot for STONEMASTER clothing ?
who can resist dirty wall climbers in white pajamas ?

why did they cut off homeboy's head ? what kind of male model gets his...
why did they cut off homeboy's head ? what kind of male model gets his head cut off ?
Derek Fvckin' Zoolander ?
Credit: matt thomsen's cousin

thread development like this is the reason i continue to lurk here , hell, we got John Long at a death belay , this is great !!

where else do you get stuff like this from folks like this ?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Sounds skethy Largo, ha ha.

Nice, Ian! The story behind the clothes...

Ivo and I just got done doing a 35 day push on the Huber film. We both hadn't done any laundry and all my clothes were pretty dank. I was searching for light colored cloths and Dean says, "I've got a bunch of white cloths from my friends company, let's wear uniforms".

We all laughed but that's exactly what we did:

Credit: Dean Fidelman

When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat.

Yeah Pete, that's why I wrote: "but, not sure how accurate that is".

Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
yeah , you guys got us paid that summer !

humping german camera equipment up and down the east ledges .

Ivo was like the union boss, he would check our bags before we went up, and if they had loaded us with too much stuff, he would make them take stuff back to make it lighter.

white is the new black !
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Sorry to hijack the OP...so yeah, I think it has only seen four solos.
DanaB

climber
CT
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat

Or just not write it at all. How about that?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Well, it's more than just hearsay, it's well known she did drill or modify the route. I'm just not exactly sure to what extent... but, who cares? I was just replying to Pete's query.

I don't see what the big deal is, as long as you let it known that it was second hand information. Anyway, that was the rumor after she climbed it.

Pretty impressive send IMO.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:03am PT
Repetitions of "Mescalito", "Zenyatta Mondatta", "Sea of ​​Dreams", "The Shield" and "Reticent Wall" (A5) on El Capitan roped
Solitary "Zodiac" and "Wyoming Sheep Ranch" (9 bivouacs) on El Capitan.
SILVIA VIDAL
@@@ El Cap Pirate :




Hello, Thanks for your reply, on Silvia Vidal, but I can not find his solo ascent of Reticent Wall (She climbed Reticent Wall, but from what I understand not lonely, I can not find sites that talk about lonely, his climbing partner of Reticent Wall "" "should" be "" PEP MASIP, but I'm not sure, though, still can not find anything that confirms his solo ascent.
Thank you very much for your answer, if by chance you find the site that talks about one of his solitary on Reticent Wall, thank you very much if I places.

Best regards from
Gigi from Italy
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 04:30am PT
First and foremost I want to thank the great kindness of the Great PETE for inviting me to come to climb El Capitan! Thank you very much!
Then, very great compliments on Tue eight solo climbing El Capitan!
Hello and thank you again.

Gigi from Italy
Andy KP

climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 05:07am PT
Hi

Jim Beyer made a solo ascent after Wally, in the spring of 2000 I think. Remember seeing him from ZM and thinking he must be running pitches together, as the rope seemed to be going forever - but once I climbed the route I found that some pitches were 60+ metres long!

Robert Stiener (Germany) soloed the route after me (he also translated Psychovertical into German!).

Silvia is one of the best aid climbers in the world, and did the route with Pepe Masip, and know for sure she would not drill unless something had fallen off (they also never drilled holes or rivets, but would place a full size bolt with hanger).

Some pics from the Reticent here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/andykirkpatrick/sets/72057594094387736/

Cheers

Andy
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 05:33am PT
Thank you very much Mr. Kirkpatrick for Your kindness and for Your climbing, and congratulations for the beautiful book I've read (PsycoVertical) (translated into Italian)
Perdindirindina, as the English knew it would be great!!
So, I was right, It is an exceptional climber Silvia Vidal, but Reticent Wall solo did not climb.
I wanted to ask:
The Direttissima of the Russians to the Eiger North has never been repeated?
Where could I find the description of the ascent route of the Russians?
Even METANOIA has never been repeated?
Where could I find the description of the ascent route of the Great Lowe?

Thank you very much for Your kindness and for more information, if not too much trouble!

Best and greetings by:

Gigi from Italy.
tradryan

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Jul 30, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Sorry to hijack the OP...so yeah, I think it has only seen four solos.

If I may humbly stick my head into this thread, I believe that Kyle Dempster soloed the route, no?
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Ciao Tradryan, In Primis of all thanks for Your answer. Here, since I'm doing the statistics of climbing solo Reticent Wall, You say that the name you've written has risen in solitary Reticent Wall? For the moment, I thank you, and I'll do research to find out the names with the utmost security, however, is not who does not believe your assertion is just to be absolutely sure that the names are the right ones to make an exact statistic (In fact I had been told Silvia Vidal also, but this exceptional climber has climbed Reticent Wall, but do not solo.

Thanks very much for your news, very Profit1
Best Regards from Gigi.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Thank you so much for the news TRADRYAN edge of the other great Solitaire on Reticent Wall, News exact and confirmed.
The Great Climber KYLE DEMPSTER climbed solo the terrible Reticent Wall:
I added the terrible, however, because the way is very very very difficult!!

Thank you and best regards!
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Not too sure about solos, but here is a gallery with maybe 3 photos of Reticent Wall.

http://www.landher.net/es/amigos/galeria/escalando-el-capitan/43

I had heard before Kyle soloed it (ALPINIST article about Baffin Island ascent?). Maybe some European climbed it solo in the past season. I thought I read about it on the website elcapreport.com, but can't find it now.

So, is the famous belay device from KONG named after you?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Ian Jewell, I second your opinion of first two photos you posted! Super inspiring. Wish I could try that route one day, along with many more. Great thread.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Another Reticent Wall Fanboy here.

I went to college with Chris Kalous. Who if memory serves, did the 2nd ascent with Kevin Thaw and Mark Synnott?

I've climbed to either side of the route, but never was really in the zone enough to do that in proper style.

Sitting here now, in this moment, thinking about either soloing Reticent or doing it in a push sounds so far out there.

While the number of ascents may lead the ignorant to think that its tame...look at that list of names. Proud sickos.

Fun thread.
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