The first solo climbing on Reticent Wall

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Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2013 - 07:25am PT
Hello! I would like to know if some expert is aware of the first solo ascent of Reticent Wall of EL CAPITAN! I know that TOMAS HUMAR was the first European to climb solo, but who is the first one who has been in solitary?
Thanks for the help!
Greetings to All!

RETICENT WALL (A5) The most difficult route on El Capitan.
Thank you, Gigi from Italy.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:37am PT
AndyKP?
Valerio

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:04am PT
ciao Gigi,
I'm pretty sure it was Grant Gardner to make the first solo ascent... search on the web for more infos...

Valerio
hb81

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:38am PT
If I remember Andy's book correctly he was the second after Tomaz Humar.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jul 29, 2013 - 09:22am PT

hair-raising TR of Lost in America by Brandon Thau and Grant Gardner


Grant had the portaledge ready when I arrived so we ate and slept while hanging off a single threaded quarter inch shortie.


Crazy!

cf. http://www.rockclimbing.org/tripreports/lostinamerica.htm





Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 10:10am PT
Thanks to all, (@ @ @ Mr. Valerio Folco: Thank you for your kindness, I asked with Mail also to Chris Macnamara as you told me, and he has kindly responded, but did not know anything, in fact, Mr. Macnamara, told me to ask about SUPERTOPO, what I have done but climber she "Valerio Folco" speaks not find any feedback that has made the first solo ascent:
But I hope some expert friend can come to my aid.
I know that Humar was the first European, the second European Kirkpatrick, but do not know and can not find anyone who has made the first solo ascent.
I also know that another strong climber has done (Wally Barker)
Thank you all for your responses and your help.
Cordial greetings to all
Gigi from Italy
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:32am PT
Andy Kirkpatrick posts on here as AndyKP, you could try to send him a message see if he knows.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Wow!!! First of all hello to everyone and thank you!
So, I have to say that maybe slowly I can solve the riddle. So first of all congratulations to the very strong and very kind Mr. Valerio Folco, which should actually be right! The first solo ascent of Reticent Wall should be the one of the very strong Grant Gardner, followed immediately by the very strong Wally Barker, this year 1998. I have generally found very little information about almost anything, so I hope I have correctly deciphered the very little information I've found, do not understand how so great masterpieces of climbing exploits and there is very little information about.
However, if some expert has what thing to add, some more news or some other big loner who has climbed the difficult way, I thank you very much if you add something about it!
Thanks to all and greetings to all.
Gigi from Italy
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Hey Gigi,

I know we made the eighth ascent of Reticent Wall in the fall of 1998. At the time I remembered who had climbed it before us, but now I forget!

Tomaz Humar made the ninth ascent solo, right after us. He was very discouraged because at the time, there was no McTopo of the route, and none of the locals would give him a topo. So we gave him a copy of our topo, and I taught him how to build a 2:1 Hauling Ratchet, and took him over to buy Chongo's book so he could learn how to solo a big wall.



Reticent was his first ever big wall, and solo at that.

There is a funny photo trip report from Tomaz Humar's solo of Reticent Wall here. You have to follow the links in the story to go to the next photo, but as far as I know, all the links still work. So read the photo caption, and somewhere near the bottom of the photo caption will be a link to the next photo in the story:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Chongo_s_Book_s_Belay_Screws_1918.html

It is a strange and funny story, and you will have to start here at the beginning and go through about twenty photos. You will read how the Yosemite locals told him not to climb it, and to take a plane and go back home! Here's a copy of our annotated topo that I gave Humar:



Here's a link to the AAJ write-up by Steve Schneider aka Shipoopoi, that talks about the solos by Grant and Wally. Maybe you already found this:

http://books.google.com/books?id=UhmT3_I_xU4C&pg=PA220&lpg=PA220&dq=grant+gardner+reticent&source=bl&ots=IiIdhnXblg&sig=tZz0Vyr5jcDNnOZb-Vf_c4D7Cl4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=WJr2UaCxOrPlyAGS_oCQBg&ved=0CDcQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=grant%20gardner%20reticent&f=false

I'm told that the former crux pitch, the penultimate one, is no longer as hard as it used to be and actually has some pro on it! But the spicy A4 pitch above Wino Tower is still the Real Deal.

Fun route!

Here's Humar soloing what used to be a Real Live Death Pitch:



And here's three random dudes in the El Cap Meadow. Gotta love the fake wood panelling on the Birdmobile. They just don't make station wagons like that any more. {sigh}



You can find all these photos by starting here and following the links in the text.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Chongo_s_Book_s_Belay_Screws_1918.html

Cheers, eh?
Pete

P.S. Why are you interested, Gigi? You gonna give it a go?

kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
wow, pete coming thru in the clutch! nice pics, eh? ;)
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Thank you very much friendly PETE, first thank you for the beautiful and useful answer! Then, I know the problems he had Humar, because I read his book, which talks about his ascent of Reticent Wall, and also that of Kirkpatrick.
I wanted to ask you a favor since you're an expert in statistics climbing: Since I have solved the riddle of the first solo ascent of Reticent Wall, see if by any chance you can still find something other solitary (I'm not good with PC ) do me a great pleasure. I know this situation at this time:
Before Lonely Reticent Wall: GRANT GARDNER.
Second Solitary: WALLY BARKER.
Third Lonely: TOMAS HUMAR. (I think)
Then, I only know more KIRKPATRICK who climbed solo.
By chance, you know the names of other climbers who have gone solo?
If you know any sites or anything else that you talk about climbing lonely, do me a great favor if you show me the sites or links.
Certainly come to EL CAPITAN would be a wonderful thing, the problem is that they are already old is a little shabby (the years that you run behind)
However, never say never, before reaching the eternal pastures of grasslands.
anyway, thank you so much for what you've already written, and if you know something else I thank you if you add another.
So many loved ones and cordial greetings.
PS. I apologize for the awkward English!

Gigi from Italy
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Dang, Pete, you were thinner back then!
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
I apologize for forgetting to tell the Big Pete:
Congratulations on Your Greatest Ascent of Reticent Wall

many Greetings
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Silvia Vidal also did a solo ascent of the Reticent.

Also, these guys did it in a 34 hour push... ha ha:

Credit: Dean Fidelman
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
34 hours. Dang!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
Crack Team of House Painters Scales Steep Stone Grade!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Hey, it was HOT that day, haa haa. I think we look pretty clean for having just climbed the Reticent.

We do look like we are in painter garb, though. ;)
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Ivo told me Dean learned to nail that day?
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Did the "uniforms" help with team solidarity?

Stylin' . . .
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Ivo told me Dean learned to nail that day?

True story. I thought he had SOME experience but found out he had NONE, ha ha. He wanted to lead one of the crux pitches, I was dozing off at the anchor while Ivo was belaying, but kept waking up to Dean cussing.

Half way up the pitch he asked if I would finish it. "This sh#t is scary", he kept saying. "I've found a new respect in what you guys do", he told us after he got down to the belay.

I'm never pscyhed to finish someones pitch because I don't know how good the pieces are. I was pretty gripped jugging up to his high point. I wasn't getting any solid pieces in and took a little fall. The weight of the rope got tight and a bunch of pieces fell out below me that Dean had put in, a bunch of tipped out beaks.

The idea with the three man team was we each had our different strong points and we tried to divvy up the pitches accordingly... we should have stuck to that, ha haa.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
I remember that day, and watching Dean leading some nailing pitches up to Lay Lady Ledge. I had forgotten about Silvia Vidal's solo. Was it the second ascent? She was rumoured to have drilled a bat hook hole or chipped something. I do knott know if it is true.

Gigi - I have made eight lonely ascents of El Cap. I am already old and a little shabby. But I keep climbing El Cap - route #49 this spring. If you are already old and a little shabby like me, it is a great place to climb!

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
She was rumoured to have drilled a bat hook hole or chipped something.

I heard she drilled and put a bolt in... but, not sure how accurate that is.

...and watching Dean leading some nailing pitches up to Lay Lady Ledge.

He lead the first seven up to LLL clean in about 3.5 hours. The pitch I was talking about was higher just before sunrise, the next day.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
I heard some chickenshit drilled rivets in Lost In America. What a pussy he must have been.

When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat. The rumours I heard regarding Silvia were never conclusively proved. Anyway, she can climb circles round me.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
Grant had the portaledge ready when I arrived so we ate and slept while hanging off a single threaded quarter inch shortie.


I did an early ascent of The Shield and on the sling belay just below Chickenhead ledge, at the most exposed part of the headwall, Mike Lechlinski and I had to haul and jumar and lead off a singel, threaded 1/4 shortie shortie sans hanger, meaning I had to slip a keyhole hanger over that coffin nail and clip into that f*#ker. Man, when Mike lead off that belay I just stared at that one bolt trying to will the mofo in place as Mike lead off on a big ass string of rivets.

Thing can get hairy up there in hurry when them anchors are sketch.

JL
Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
first off, this photo is fvcking awesome , especially given the story pete told, first wall, solo , AMA ( against medical advice , or against valley advice in this case ) , homemade topo , etc
its great that a guy can look that happy in that situation on THAT pitch solo.

Humar is my new hero
Humar is my new hero
Credit: ptpp

second , this photo is fvcking awesome , on it's own certainly , but again ESPECIALLY given what you crazy fvckers just pulled off

these dudes are either union painters on a 34 hour lunch break , or th...
these dudes are either union painters on a 34 hour lunch break , or they are in a cult
Credit: ammon

was this fashion choice the trendsetting inspiration for Aaron Jones' super sexy modeling shoot for STONEMASTER clothing ?
who can resist dirty wall climbers in white pajamas ?

why did they cut off homeboy's head ? what kind of male model gets his...
why did they cut off homeboy's head ? what kind of male model gets his head cut off ?
Derek Fvckin' Zoolander ?
Credit: matt thomsen's cousin

thread development like this is the reason i continue to lurk here , hell, we got John Long at a death belay , this is great !!

where else do you get stuff like this from folks like this ?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Sounds skethy Largo, ha ha.

Nice, Ian! The story behind the clothes...

Ivo and I just got done doing a 35 day push on the Huber film. We both hadn't done any laundry and all my clothes were pretty dank. I was searching for light colored cloths and Dean says, "I've got a bunch of white cloths from my friends company, let's wear uniforms".

We all laughed but that's exactly what we did:

Credit: Dean Fidelman

When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat.

Yeah Pete, that's why I wrote: "but, not sure how accurate that is".

Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
yeah , you guys got us paid that summer !

humping german camera equipment up and down the east ledges .

Ivo was like the union boss, he would check our bags before we went up, and if they had loaded us with too much stuff, he would make them take stuff back to make it lighter.

white is the new black !
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Sorry to hijack the OP...so yeah, I think it has only seen four solos.
DanaB

climber
CT
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
When you write hearsay on the internet, you should add the caveat

Or just not write it at all. How about that?
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Well, it's more than just hearsay, it's well known she did drill or modify the route. I'm just not exactly sure to what extent... but, who cares? I was just replying to Pete's query.

I don't see what the big deal is, as long as you let it known that it was second hand information. Anyway, that was the rumor after she climbed it.

Pretty impressive send IMO.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 03:03am PT
Repetitions of "Mescalito", "Zenyatta Mondatta", "Sea of ​​Dreams", "The Shield" and "Reticent Wall" (A5) on El Capitan roped
Solitary "Zodiac" and "Wyoming Sheep Ranch" (9 bivouacs) on El Capitan.
SILVIA VIDAL
@@@ El Cap Pirate :




Hello, Thanks for your reply, on Silvia Vidal, but I can not find his solo ascent of Reticent Wall (She climbed Reticent Wall, but from what I understand not lonely, I can not find sites that talk about lonely, his climbing partner of Reticent Wall "" "should" be "" PEP MASIP, but I'm not sure, though, still can not find anything that confirms his solo ascent.
Thank you very much for your answer, if by chance you find the site that talks about one of his solitary on Reticent Wall, thank you very much if I places.

Best regards from
Gigi from Italy
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 04:30am PT
First and foremost I want to thank the great kindness of the Great PETE for inviting me to come to climb El Capitan! Thank you very much!
Then, very great compliments on Tue eight solo climbing El Capitan!
Hello and thank you again.

Gigi from Italy
Andy KP

climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 05:07am PT
Hi

Jim Beyer made a solo ascent after Wally, in the spring of 2000 I think. Remember seeing him from ZM and thinking he must be running pitches together, as the rope seemed to be going forever - but once I climbed the route I found that some pitches were 60+ metres long!

Robert Stiener (Germany) soloed the route after me (he also translated Psychovertical into German!).

Silvia is one of the best aid climbers in the world, and did the route with Pepe Masip, and know for sure she would not drill unless something had fallen off (they also never drilled holes or rivets, but would place a full size bolt with hanger).

Some pics from the Reticent here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/andykirkpatrick/sets/72057594094387736/

Cheers

Andy
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 05:33am PT
Thank you very much Mr. Kirkpatrick for Your kindness and for Your climbing, and congratulations for the beautiful book I've read (PsycoVertical) (translated into Italian)
Perdindirindina, as the English knew it would be great!!
So, I was right, It is an exceptional climber Silvia Vidal, but Reticent Wall solo did not climb.
I wanted to ask:
The Direttissima of the Russians to the Eiger North has never been repeated?
Where could I find the description of the ascent route of the Russians?
Even METANOIA has never been repeated?
Where could I find the description of the ascent route of the Great Lowe?

Thank you very much for Your kindness and for more information, if not too much trouble!

Best and greetings by:

Gigi from Italy.
tradryan

Big Wall climber
San Diego
Jul 30, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
Sorry to hijack the OP...so yeah, I think it has only seen four solos.

If I may humbly stick my head into this thread, I believe that Kyle Dempster soloed the route, no?
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Ciao Tradryan, In Primis of all thanks for Your answer. Here, since I'm doing the statistics of climbing solo Reticent Wall, You say that the name you've written has risen in solitary Reticent Wall? For the moment, I thank you, and I'll do research to find out the names with the utmost security, however, is not who does not believe your assertion is just to be absolutely sure that the names are the right ones to make an exact statistic (In fact I had been told Silvia Vidal also, but this exceptional climber has climbed Reticent Wall, but do not solo.

Thanks very much for your news, very Profit1
Best Regards from Gigi.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Thank you so much for the news TRADRYAN edge of the other great Solitaire on Reticent Wall, News exact and confirmed.
The Great Climber KYLE DEMPSTER climbed solo the terrible Reticent Wall:
I added the terrible, however, because the way is very very very difficult!!

Thank you and best regards!
Morgan

Trad climber
East Coast
Jul 30, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
Not too sure about solos, but here is a gallery with maybe 3 photos of Reticent Wall.

http://www.landher.net/es/amigos/galeria/escalando-el-capitan/43

I had heard before Kyle soloed it (ALPINIST article about Baffin Island ascent?). Maybe some European climbed it solo in the past season. I thought I read about it on the website elcapreport.com, but can't find it now.

So, is the famous belay device from KONG named after you?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Ian Jewell, I second your opinion of first two photos you posted! Super inspiring. Wish I could try that route one day, along with many more. Great thread.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Jul 30, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Another Reticent Wall Fanboy here.

I went to college with Chris Kalous. Who if memory serves, did the 2nd ascent with Kevin Thaw and Mark Synnott?

I've climbed to either side of the route, but never was really in the zone enough to do that in proper style.

Sitting here now, in this moment, thinking about either soloing Reticent or doing it in a push sounds so far out there.

While the number of ascents may lead the ignorant to think that its tame...look at that list of names. Proud sickos.

Fun thread.
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Jul 30, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Kyle was soloing it in 2006 or something, I remember sharing a couple bivies togather on the New Dawn part and him dropping his pack of rollies. It was pretty wet some of the days he was up there.

I think Grant soloed it in April and the weather was stormy most the days.

Beyer soloed it. I think some polish guy did as well. He always wore funny cloths.

klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
Is this the Hardest route on El Cap? I thought Wings of Steel was, or maybe that expando death pitch on Abstract Expressionist (unless it fell off on it's own, my routes tend to do that)
NBB

Social climber
Boulder
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
GG
GG
Credit: NBB

From an e-mail dated 3/16/98:

"My basic plan is to head to the valley around the first of the month. Brandon wants to do something like lurking fear in a day or some such thing, on the first weekend of April. Then I want to do skull queen in a few hours as an intro to solo climbing. Then, and only then will I be ready for the real fun."

I wanted to be his partner, but he refused because, as he told me, then he'd know he would get up it. He wanted an adventure. Everything was carefully planned. The whole thing turned out to be a warmup for the rest of the season. I miss him. To date, he's still the best climber I've ever roped up with. We've both moved on, so long ago. I had just started working as an engineer out of college. I don't think he was even 20 in this photo, in 1997. I was 25 when I took it, I'm 41 now.

I also really like the story of Tomaz soloing this thing. Love that photo. The Valley is full of adventure, full of these lives and stories.

NBB
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jul 30, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
whatever happened to this thread?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=28077&msg=28077#msg28077
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 31, 2013 - 02:00am PT
Super sick, guys! Way to come together...
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Jul 31, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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