The first solo climbing on Reticent Wall

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Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 29, 2013 - 07:25am PT
Hello! I would like to know if some expert is aware of the first solo ascent of Reticent Wall of EL CAPITAN! I know that TOMAS HUMAR was the first European to climb solo, but who is the first one who has been in solitary?
Thanks for the help!
Greetings to All!

RETICENT WALL (A5) The most difficult route on El Capitan.
Thank you, Gigi from Italy.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:37am PT
AndyKP?
Valerio

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:04am PT
ciao Gigi,
I'm pretty sure it was Grant Gardner to make the first solo ascent... search on the web for more infos...

Valerio
hb81

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:38am PT
If I remember Andy's book correctly he was the second after Tomaz Humar.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jul 29, 2013 - 09:22am PT

hair-raising TR of Lost in America by Brandon Thau and Grant Gardner


Grant had the portaledge ready when I arrived so we ate and slept while hanging off a single threaded quarter inch shortie.


Crazy!

cf. http://www.rockclimbing.org/tripreports/lostinamerica.htm





Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 10:10am PT
Thanks to all, (@ @ @ Mr. Valerio Folco: Thank you for your kindness, I asked with Mail also to Chris Macnamara as you told me, and he has kindly responded, but did not know anything, in fact, Mr. Macnamara, told me to ask about SUPERTOPO, what I have done but climber she "Valerio Folco" speaks not find any feedback that has made the first solo ascent:
But I hope some expert friend can come to my aid.
I know that Humar was the first European, the second European Kirkpatrick, but do not know and can not find anyone who has made the first solo ascent.
I also know that another strong climber has done (Wally Barker)
Thank you all for your responses and your help.
Cordial greetings to all
Gigi from Italy
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Chapel Hill, NC
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:32am PT
Andy Kirkpatrick posts on here as AndyKP, you could try to send him a message see if he knows.
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Wow!!! First of all hello to everyone and thank you!
So, I have to say that maybe slowly I can solve the riddle. So first of all congratulations to the very strong and very kind Mr. Valerio Folco, which should actually be right! The first solo ascent of Reticent Wall should be the one of the very strong Grant Gardner, followed immediately by the very strong Wally Barker, this year 1998. I have generally found very little information about almost anything, so I hope I have correctly deciphered the very little information I've found, do not understand how so great masterpieces of climbing exploits and there is very little information about.
However, if some expert has what thing to add, some more news or some other big loner who has climbed the difficult way, I thank you very much if you add something about it!
Thanks to all and greetings to all.
Gigi from Italy
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 29, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Hey Gigi,

I know we made the eighth ascent of Reticent Wall in the fall of 1998. At the time I remembered who had climbed it before us, but now I forget!

Tomaz Humar made the ninth ascent solo, right after us. He was very discouraged because at the time, there was no McTopo of the route, and none of the locals would give him a topo. So we gave him a copy of our topo, and I taught him how to build a 2:1 Hauling Ratchet, and took him over to buy Chongo's book so he could learn how to solo a big wall.



Reticent was his first ever big wall, and solo at that.

There is a funny photo trip report from Tomaz Humar's solo of Reticent Wall here. You have to follow the links in the story to go to the next photo, but as far as I know, all the links still work. So read the photo caption, and somewhere near the bottom of the photo caption will be a link to the next photo in the story:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Chongo_s_Book_s_Belay_Screws_1918.html

It is a strange and funny story, and you will have to start here at the beginning and go through about twenty photos. You will read how the Yosemite locals told him not to climb it, and to take a plane and go back home! Here's a copy of our annotated topo that I gave Humar:



Here's a link to the AAJ write-up by Steve Schneider aka Shipoopoi, that talks about the solos by Grant and Wally. Maybe you already found this:

http://books.google.com/books?id=UhmT3_I_xU4C&pg=PA220&lpg=PA220&dq=grant+gardner+reticent&source=bl&ots=IiIdhnXblg&sig=tZz0Vyr5jcDNnOZb-Vf_c4D7Cl4&hl=en&sa=X&ei=WJr2UaCxOrPlyAGS_oCQBg&ved=0CDcQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=grant%20gardner%20reticent&f=false

I'm told that the former crux pitch, the penultimate one, is no longer as hard as it used to be and actually has some pro on it! But the spicy A4 pitch above Wino Tower is still the Real Deal.

Fun route!

Here's Humar soloing what used to be a Real Live Death Pitch:



And here's three random dudes in the El Cap Meadow. Gotta love the fake wood panelling on the Birdmobile. They just don't make station wagons like that any more. {sigh}



You can find all these photos by starting here and following the links in the text.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/Chongo_s_Book_s_Belay_Screws_1918.html

Cheers, eh?
Pete

P.S. Why are you interested, Gigi? You gonna give it a go?

kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
wow, pete coming thru in the clutch! nice pics, eh? ;)
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
Thank you very much friendly PETE, first thank you for the beautiful and useful answer! Then, I know the problems he had Humar, because I read his book, which talks about his ascent of Reticent Wall, and also that of Kirkpatrick.
I wanted to ask you a favor since you're an expert in statistics climbing: Since I have solved the riddle of the first solo ascent of Reticent Wall, see if by any chance you can still find something other solitary (I'm not good with PC ) do me a great pleasure. I know this situation at this time:
Before Lonely Reticent Wall: GRANT GARDNER.
Second Solitary: WALLY BARKER.
Third Lonely: TOMAS HUMAR. (I think)
Then, I only know more KIRKPATRICK who climbed solo.
By chance, you know the names of other climbers who have gone solo?
If you know any sites or anything else that you talk about climbing lonely, do me a great favor if you show me the sites or links.
Certainly come to EL CAPITAN would be a wonderful thing, the problem is that they are already old is a little shabby (the years that you run behind)
However, never say never, before reaching the eternal pastures of grasslands.
anyway, thank you so much for what you've already written, and if you know something else I thank you if you add another.
So many loved ones and cordial greetings.
PS. I apologize for the awkward English!

Gigi from Italy
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Dang, Pete, you were thinner back then!
Watermann2

Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
I apologize for forgetting to tell the Big Pete:
Congratulations on Your Greatest Ascent of Reticent Wall

many Greetings
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Silvia Vidal also did a solo ascent of the Reticent.

Also, these guys did it in a 34 hour push... ha ha:

Credit: Dean Fidelman
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
34 hours. Dang!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
Crack Team of House Painters Scales Steep Stone Grade!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Hey, it was HOT that day, haa haa. I think we look pretty clean for having just climbed the Reticent.

We do look like we are in painter garb, though. ;)
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Ivo told me Dean learned to nail that day?
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
Did the "uniforms" help with team solidarity?

Stylin' . . .
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Ivo told me Dean learned to nail that day?

True story. I thought he had SOME experience but found out he had NONE, ha ha. He wanted to lead one of the crux pitches, I was dozing off at the anchor while Ivo was belaying, but kept waking up to Dean cussing.

Half way up the pitch he asked if I would finish it. "This sh#t is scary", he kept saying. "I've found a new respect in what you guys do", he told us after he got down to the belay.

I'm never pscyhed to finish someones pitch because I don't know how good the pieces are. I was pretty gripped jugging up to his high point. I wasn't getting any solid pieces in and took a little fall. The weight of the rope got tight and a bunch of pieces fell out below me that Dean had put in, a bunch of tipped out beaks.

The idea with the three man team was we each had our different strong points and we tried to divvy up the pitches accordingly... we should have stuck to that, ha haa.
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