First Rostrum Free Solo

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 40 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jul 26, 2013 - 07:21am PT
That Schultz story about soloing (down and up) is not true.
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 26, 2013 - 07:31am PT
I figured it was too outrageous to be true...kind of wish it was though...
10b4me

Ice climber
Wishes-He-Was-In-Arizona
Jul 26, 2013 - 07:43am PT
I wish we had more threads like this on Supertopo.
jghedge

climber
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:03am PT
"Also, has anyone else heard the story about Dave Schultz sitting at the top when a party pulls the lip and tells him they got a cam stuck on the final pitch? I don't know if its true or not (obviously) but Schultz then decides to free solo down-climb the super steep twin finger cracks on the Alien Finish, removes the stuck cam, climbs back up, and announces the booty to be most obviously his."

Partially true

He lead the Alien with me belaying. I couldn't get the first cam he placed out. No communication - you can't yell at each other when you're in that alcove and he's on top. Apparently I was taking too long to get going, so he ties me off, down-solo's the 5.9 wide crack, leans out over the abyss holding onto a sling, wiggles the cam around for a few minutes and gets it out, then disappears back up the 5.9. This was years before he free-soloed the whole thing.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:20am PT
That's a great story. Interesting how it expanded to mythology.
Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Woah! That's awesome. So cool to get to hear the actual story!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Amazing what we'll do to retrieve a piece of gear sometimes.... :0)
WBraun

climber
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:37am PT
No way ,,,all wrong.

I was driving down the canyon and out of the corner of my eye I see the rostrum.

Hedge, Bullwinkle, Russ and Roxjox were free soloing it ......
jghedge

climber
Jul 26, 2013 - 08:44am PT
Another mildly interesting Rostrum/Schultz story...

He wanted to do a dry run before soloing it for the first time. We rapped down the fixed lines to the base and do the pitches to the little ledge below the off-width, at the face traverse. He looks down and notices a sweatshirt on the walk-on ledge 2 pitches lower "Did you leave a sweatshirt down there?" "No...". A few minutes later we see someone down-soloing the first pitch. Croft.

So I'm following the last section into the alcove, and here comes Croft behind me. I swing over to the side to get out of the way, and as Croft climbs into the alcove, I hear "Hey Peter, I'm Dave." They'd never met...

And yes Schultz soloed it the next day, early 90's I think
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2013 - 09:29am PT
Thanks Joe.
That's exactly the kind of response I was trying to conjure.

Great history!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 26, 2013 - 09:54am PT
^^^

Ha! That is awesome, good stories here. True or not!
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Bump it back to the front..
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jul 26, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
A few years back Brad Gobright soloed past me as I watched from the top of the OW belay.

So. F*#king. Cool.
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jul 28, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Snowhazed,

so you got to actually watch Gobi as he soloed it? That kid is solid. He on-sight climbed every pitch of Romantic Warrior as well around that time I think.

Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 08:04am PT
Bump
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 25, 2013 - 08:16am PT
Ha!

No way ,,,all wrong.

I was driving down the canyon and out of the corner of my eye I see the rostrum.

Hedge, Bullwinkle, Russ and Roxjox were free soloing it ......

It would appear that werner prefers mythology!

You believe in santy too?

Merry xmas werner! ( I know you were kidding but you left yourself wide open....)
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Dec 25, 2013 - 08:32am PT
Slightly OT but....any of these guys(or anyone) ever solo The Crucifix?
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
Dec 25, 2013 - 09:26am PT
Niels from SAR solo'd it by headlamp after an all day SAR training in 2011. Borrowed my lamp for it. Wasn't sure how I felt about handing it over knowing what he was about to do...
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Dec 25, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Honnold soloed crucifix
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
Bump
Messages 21 - 40 of total 40 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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