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Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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I have pictures from the original papers on the Fin out at Castle Rocks in Sequoia. Figured I'd put them on here because there were some supertopo names and others might be interested. The pages are virtually destroyed but hopefully now the history won't get lost or die with my computer.
Placed a new register with a little book and left the old pages out there.
They're basically in order but some pages had dates that didn't line up. Sorry I didn't capture them very well but I was in a hurry.
-Daniel
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hairyapeman
Trad climber
Fres-yes
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Jul 21, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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You should call the number!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 21, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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totally call the number (the "new" one).
fun read, TFPU
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
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One bump for SEKI folks before it drifts off for good. Looks like only 7 ascents of Silver Lining?
Last chance to prank call Laeger or Carson!
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 22, 2013 - 01:40pm PT
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Wow, This brings back a few memories. I wonder how many ascents the Silver Lining has now, cannot believe only seven? What a wonderful climb, what a place. Thanks for posting this. Both CRS and the Fin should be on everyone's list. Cheers, Alois.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 22, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Nobody in 7 years? I guess either the route is so obscure that people just don't know what a high quality climbing there is on it, or the activity is going in another direction and people are not interested in these backcountry classics..
For me those two climbs were some of the best trips I have ever done.
I was in the area just three weeks ago hiking the High Sierra Trail and seeing CRS and the Fin was wonderful.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 22, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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super cool stuff, thanks for sharing :-), cheers mike a.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 22, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
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BTW regarding the phone number, Miguel, Bob Lindgren and I got to the top of the Fin just a few days after the FA of Silver Lining. Miguel called Herb and talked to him about our attempts from Mineral King. Herb assured Miguel that MK approach was a lost proposition. That number was Herb's place in LA, he has not lived there in years.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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Herb assured Miguel that MK approach was a lost proposition
Hmmm... I've never done the lower approach so I can't judge which way is better (or less terrible), but I didn't think the MK approach is that bad. With full packs it took 4 hr 15 minutes to camp last time, which was about half an hour from the fin.
The draw for me was that the MK approach has no poison oak and virtually no bush whacking, just a 7 mile walk through the forest with a bit of scrambling at the end. I also dammed up the seeps so there are two little pools to pump from. Pump one dry for about two gallons, pump the other one and by the time you're done the first has filled up again so it's endless water. They've been there on June, July, August and September trips.
I'm planning on going in from below on a day hike with René one of these days. He has that route pretty well down and can avoid much of the PO. Either way those rocks are far enough to deter most people, and I think approaches are getting less popular.
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Alois
Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
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Jul 22, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Don't forget that going from MK you'll end up on top of the Fin. These days, the rap route just might be the way to go to the base, but when we were looking around the place all those years ago, there were no known routes on the Fin.
Maybe EC Joe might remember, (I think he did the 2nd ascent of Silver Lining) if the rap route was there when he did it. It was not on the original home made drawing that Herb made for Miguel and we found it only after we finished the climb.
For CRS, going from the top is less practical. The steep gully that must be descended would be a tough climb back up. For CRS and IMO the Kaweah River approach is the way to go...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
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Thanks "quiet is the new loud"
Alois, ya I didn't think about the fact that you guys were there before the rap route. There's a new one that can be done with one 70m using mostly trees with a couple of anchors that I posted a picture of on here:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/64-Years-After-Salath-Finishing-the-First-Attempted-Route-On-Castle-Rock-Spire/t12038n.html
Either way, descending that gully would definitely suck, it was annoying enough to go UP!
You probably know better than I which route is the way to go, I've only done the upper. Of course, I might walk from Whitney Portal if it meant I could avoid poison oak! :)
Still itching to go climb silver lining and put my name next to all of yours...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 22, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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Way cool to see my register entry from way back in 1990! We did a free ascent of the CRS regular route the next day. Silver Lining is comparable to Fairview dome in terms of length, steepness & commitment. I have a few photos from that trip I'll try to post up. I would go back again as the experience & solitude were amazing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 22, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
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The Silver Lining rap has some flaws, mostly a rope eating flake.
I think it was like the 3rd or 4th rap, Kris saw it and had me walk out right on a dike, for about 30 feet, and pull it down.
Need to move the bolts, next time someone is out doing the ASCA deal....Ha
Queston for CRAB... I read the TR but I don't understand how you got from above the FIN/CRS to down into the gully between the two? And back out after you did the new climb?
And do you still have "The CRS Buzz" ... it lasted about 6 months for me.
:>)
PO Death March secret formula.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 22, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
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Thanks Guyzo, that's one of the shots I was gonna search for. Man 23 years have left me bald, fat & surly. Arrrgh!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Ya I kinda skimmed over that part.
We spent most of our first trip setting up and figuring out this rap down the fin. It hits the gully right across from the spire and can BARELY be done with one 70m rope.
This was our approximate exit. On our second try it went pretty smooth, that very top part had the worst of the bush whacking. Really fun after a tiring day of climbing!
And ya, I've still got the CRS buzz. I used to get anxious every time I looked up there, now I can just smile and enjoy the view
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Nov 15, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
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So do I! Still stuff to be done out there....
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Nov 15, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
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Cheers for what you did. It's never convenient, but it matters.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Nov 15, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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op's TR to follow ... (Godamnit!)
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