Potential DEATH with SILENT PARTNER by RockExotica

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 102 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
I remember almost dying from Blanchards silent but deadlies...Dude was strung out on the Tamalax and rapid fire cuppings...RJ
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
^^^^^^ Yer Killin' Me ^^^^^^^

You guys were on a FARTING DIET, as I recall!

You'd make me go to town for TEN GREEN BURRITOS from Del Taco. . . although Blanchard always stood on the premise that it wasn't WHAT he ate. . . it was HOW HE ATE IT. . . meaning inhaling. . . everything!

HILARIOUS!

briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jul 21, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
What a stupid title for this thread....
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 21, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ I think I have to agree ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Jul 21, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
Gee, I only tested the SP with my falling body. And I'm still here for some strange reason.
Ben909

Trad climber
toronto
Jul 21, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
All devices work differently with different ropes and a manufacturers diameter doesn't really tell you much about this. Beal has really soft ropes and looser sheath. In any case, if you are holding the destruction book in front of you, you will note that you have to climb with an insane jiggery pokery of backup knots clusterf*#ked to your harness which will undoubtedly save you in the event of any unforeseen slippage.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 21, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
i checked my rope,
a 9.7 x 70 mammut.

right out of the bag,
into the silent partner.

it seems like i have
more trouble with it tightening
(due to rope weight) than
failing to tighten.

i've taken some falls on the device
and it never let go of the knot.

the o.p. seems to be looking
for faults and thus set himself (herself?)
up to find them.

the silent partner is very safe,
and quite fun.

one word of caution:
be conscious of how you rack your gear,
nuts on a gear loop adjacent to the device
can get sucked into the system
and thus delay it's engagment
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 21, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
ou have to climb with an insane jiggery pokery of backup knots clusterf*#ked to your harness

totally, man. way clusterfuk
Credit: Norwegian
Credit: Norwegian
Credit: Norwegian
Credit: Norwegian
i really love looking at meself on the internet
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jul 22, 2013 - 02:22am PT
I remember almost dying from Blanchards silent but deadlies

Hitler's Death camps had NOTHING on Mark! I spent too many nights in tents, etc. with that guy and know first hand.

Mark once borrowed a Chouinard Foamback cagoule from a mutual friend. He used it no more than an hour or two. The thing NEVER recovered and had to be burned at the stake.
Ibex

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2013 - 03:54am PT
I just tried my SP on a Beal 9.8mm 'Golden Dry' that has been used one day (6 pitches of trad granite, one rappel). It locks up just fine. It 'slips' about 2 or 3 inches as the clove hitch tightens up, similar to what all ropes do.

That helps, thanks. Perhaps I forgot to say that I love my SP. As any other partner, once it disappointed me, but our relationship is solid. I think that I figured out what was wrong even before Blanchard's response. The waterproofing coating of a brand new rope makes it very slippery. This effect is MUCH reduced once the rope has been used a little. I would recommend a series of full-length rappels with a figure-of-eight device before using it with the SP. By the way, the proper functioning of the SP relies on rope-to-rope and rope-to-drum FRICTION. If any of the two (or both) friction coefficients is too low, e.g. due to a slippery rope, the clove hitch will slide infinitely regardless of the character of the pull.

PS. The title was intentionally "stupid" so as to attract immediate attention.

PSS. Many knots, Norwegian, yet none of them seems to be a proper back-up, LoL
Credit: Ibex
Stevee B

Mountain climber
Oakland, CA
Jul 22, 2013 - 04:14am PT
Hold up, Norweigan, lets get back to that insane Bertha you posted. So good.
Always strange to me how 1978 was such a hit & miss year but such a great year for Bertha.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 22, 2013 - 08:05am PT
Over the years, we've seen some interesting methods by which to manage the rope. . . I, personally, LOVE the way Weeg does it. Blanchard and I came up with a rope bag idea, too. . . it's kind of a big chalk bag (for lack of a better descriptor). . . and it hangs sideways, clipped in to the back of your harness with Fastex buckles. You just flake the rope into it and it feeds out from there.

Creativity abounds!

:-)

PS. The title was intentionally "stupid" so as to attract immediate attention.


You could have been a little less dramatic!


stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 22, 2013 - 08:38am PT
What? No one is going to even have POTENTIAL DEATH here? I guess everything has at least some potential for death, even chicken sammichs. Hey, ask Momma Cass.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 22, 2013 - 08:40am PT
^ ^ ^ ^ HA. . . I actually gave thought to starting a thread with some kind of smarty pants line about potential death by something benal, but decided not to!

:-)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 22, 2013 - 08:50am PT
What Steve B said that particular Bertha brought tears to my eyes! They look so Happy, everyone grateful one of them in the video. They're sharing magic! I saw them a lot, in that time frame, lots of life memories tied with that era.
My sp has never let me down!! brand new ropes are slippery even just to belay with, in any device. Reassuring that real blinny did that test though. Great work all! Kumbya 'n shit!
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Jul 22, 2013 - 09:13am PT


I use the Petzl Micro Traxion, and have a problem with it locking open when I pull in rope near the crux. What also freaks me out, though not as much, is I am afraid of getting something stuck in it between the cam and the rope rendering it useless.

Have you called the manufacturing engineers who signed off on it yet? That would be an interesting conversation, he should be freaking out by now.

I guess you have two choices: 1.) use a slightly warn and sticky rope.

[BTW I used a rope with a gri-gri in a chute full of white powder. The gri-gri got stuck so bad from a the little bit of powder in there, similar to chalk, but more slippery, that it would not work. In other words, what your rope is like has a lot to do with it, and if it is wet with an old rope or wet and a new rope, that would make for an interesting test as well. You should do that.]

2.) Get a machine shop to take it apart knurl some new test wheels and put it back together again with a lock nut and bolt rated for high strength. When I say knurl I am actually talking about making waves in it rather than abrasive points. If you go too far it will cut up the rope.

Using a slightly warn rope vs. a new rope in this system is obviously a factor. In this kind of system there would be one for new and one for old ropes. I don't think I like the idea of using slippery new ropes for anything related to soling in the kind of system your using now even if it works.

What happens when used or new ropes are wet in your system?
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 22, 2013 - 09:38am PT
The problem isn't your SP...it's your rope. You need to break that puppy in proper.

First of all...always mark the center of your rope. The bright orange spray paint that surveyors use works great....just don't spray any more than 6 inches of rope....you'll just waste paint.

Then...

Tie in and climb a White Fir tree on a REAL warm, summer day, then rap using a Figure 8 device.

Once down, flake the rope out into the ashy remains of an old campfire.

Then go do a nice long ridge climb....maybe North Ridge of Conness. Once you top out, stay tied in and trail the rope on the way back to Saddlebag.

When you get to Saddlebag, tie the rope to the bumper of your car and drive down to TPR for a cold one. (Be careful if any cars are coming toward you....if they drive over your rope, it may get damaged)

When you get home, coil that bad boy up and let your dog use it is for nap time.

Now your rope is broke in!

And now, no more worrying about the SP....problem solved!

I'm pretty sure this is all covered in the manual....but you gotta RTFM!!!!

DUH!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 22, 2013 - 10:54am PT
Reassuring that real blinny did that test though.

Yeah. . . he's a swell guy. He doesn't come to TheTaco anymore, but as long as I'm still here, he gets word of SP yammer as soon I as do.

And. . . about breaking a rope in. . . hell. . .just drag it behind a front end loader for a mile or so!

:-)
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Jul 22, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Note to Self: Stop reading these @^$&*! Q&A threads, lest Self gets all freaked out and decides to run away...Monty Python-like.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 22, 2013 - 01:28pm PT
Mark once borrowed a Chouinard Foamback cagoule from a mutual friend. He used it no more than an hour or two. The thing NEVER recovered and had to be burned at the stake.

Ya know. . . that's still a standing joke around these parts!

:-0 YIKES
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