Potential DEATH with SILENT PARTNER by RockExotica

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Ibex

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2013 - 03:42pm PT

I have used the Silent Partner on big walls before, and I know how to use it properly. Now, I have just bought a new rope (Beal Tiger Unicore Golden Dry, 10mm) and before I launch to climb a big route with it, I thought about testing it with my Silent Partner at home. Guess what; it does not work! I mean the drum locks but the rope runs through the clove hitch with very little resistance (30lb) and it does so even if I increase the speed of pulling (always making sure that the drum is locked). Yes, I have taken every care to make sure that I install the rope correctly - I have the manual in hand. WHAT IS GOING ON HERE? Does the Silent Partner works only with old ropes? I am totally disappointed, because I bought this new rope especially for using it with the Silent Partner. This is a VERY SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE.

Any feedback welcome.

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:50pm PT

How much weight did you put on the rope when you tested it?

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:55pm PT

Was that how much weight he used or how much resistance when he was pulling on it? I'm pretty sure mine wouldn't lock with any rope with only a small (30lb) load, it took a lot of force to lock it off. I don't have it anymore but that's how I remember it.

If a clove hitch works with the rope then the SP should work right?

Vulcan

Sport climber

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:56pm PT

No you are not going to die. You tested it first.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:58pm PT

I never understood why the rope would run with the drum rolling but not run when the drum stopped anyway. Good thing you tested it.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:59pm PT

If a clove hitch works with the rope then the SP should work right?

That is the idea. Does a clove hitch on a 'biner slip with your new rope? SPs have many, many, many hours of successful lab and successful real-world testing but perhaps a new thin rope with silicon coatings may not be the best choice for soloing.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Jul 21, 2013 - 03:59pm PT

Dressed myself in green, I went down unto the sea.
Try to see whats goin down, try to read between the lines.
I had a feelin I was fallin, fallin, fallin,
I turned around to see,
Heard a voice al callin, lord you was comin after me.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:04pm PT

Back the silent partner up with a squirrel suit and you should be good to go...

pud

climber

Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:08pm PT

"Potential DEATH with SILENT PARTNER by RockExotica"

"Inability to properly use equipment" might be a more accurate title.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:16pm PT

Hail to the Locker, forecaster of death...

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:24pm PT

good one ron,
we should call 'em capone
from now on.

maldaly

Trad climber

Boulder, CO

Jul 21, 2013 - 04:30pm PT

Defective Rope

Ibex

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 04:55pm PT

Dudes, take it easy :-)
1) I know how to use the device, all right?
2) The rope is not "skinny" - it is a 10mm rope, and the SP is supposed to work with 9.8mm and even thinner ropes (according to manufacturer).
3) Yes, the rope is very slippery because it is new out of the box. My feeling is that it will work just fine with the SP after I take it to the crag a couple of times (top rope, rappel, just use).
4) The fact that the clove hitch works with a rope on a biner it does not mean that it should do so, necessarily, also on the thick drum of the SP.
5) Someone forgot Newton's 3rd law: "For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction." Asking whether I applied a stronger pull is a fool question. I wrote: I tried a faster pull but the resistance (after the drum is locked) did not increase sufficiently (max 40lb). THIS IS A SERIOUS FAULT.
6) With used ropes (I tested a 9.9mm and a 9.0mm) the SP locks completely, perhaps after a little slippage (I mean after the drum is locked), no more than 1ft max.

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Jul 21, 2013 - 05:21pm PT

Test your rope with a clove hitch on a pull up or weight lifting bar or something then, out of curiosity.

Asking about force of pull is logical. Clove hitches work with friction and increase force = increased friction and then it locks. I wasn't sure if you tested it by dropping a 30 lb weight or if you just pulled on the rope and it felt like 30 lbs of resistance while slipping. The force that momentum transfers to the rope when it catches a fall is a whole lot more than the force of pulling on a tensioned rope. Pulling a rope "faster" doesn't increase the force on the rope much, it just increased the centripetal force within the silent partner, but it was already locked so it really wasn't doing anything.

Just trying to get a clear picture of what's going on, nothing too "foolish" here ;)

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Jul 21, 2013 - 05:25pm PT

I remember almost dying from Blanchards silent but deadlies...Dude was strung out on the Tamalax and rapid fire cuppings...RJ

briham89

Big Wall climber

san jose, ca

Jul 21, 2013 - 06:43pm PT

What a stupid title for this thread....

Gunkie

Trad climber

East Coast US

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:02pm PT

Gee, I only tested the SP with my falling body. And I'm still here for some strange reason.

Ben909

Trad climber

toronto

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:10pm PT

All devices work differently with different ropes and a manufacturers diameter doesn't really tell you much about this. Beal has really soft ropes and looser sheath. In any case, if you are holding the destruction book in front of you, you will note that you have to climb with an insane jiggery pokery of backup knots clusterf*#ked to your harness which will undoubtedly save you in the event of any unforeseen slippage.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Jul 21, 2013 - 09:15pm PT

i checked my rope,
a 9.7 x 70 mammut.

right out of the bag,
into the silent partner.

it seems like i have
more trouble with it tightening
(due to rope weight) than
failing to tighten.

i've taken some falls on the device
and it never let go of the knot.

the o.p. seems to be looking
for faults and thus set himself (herself?)
up to find them.

the silent partner is very safe,
and quite fun.

one word of caution:
be conscious of how you rack your gear,
nuts on a gear loop adjacent to the device
can get sucked into the system
and thus delay it's engagment