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JohnnyG
climber
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Pervertical Sancturay, crux pitch, The Diamond
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield? It's probably the best pitch on the whole climb.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield?
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Now that is a surreal pitch if ever there was one, Mark. With the belayer dangling at the lip of the roof. I remember leading this pitch and using almost all my gear. The lead was like 166 feet long and Mike Lechlinski had to upclip from the anchor so I had enough rope to tie off. We were up there early on, in the mid 1970s, long before the thing was pin scarred and those cracks were spectacular. But this pitch felt like climbing on the moon, it was so far out there and unique for the time. Maybe the crack is all beaten out now but the position will always fan your flames. Jesus, what air!
Great call, Mark
JL
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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John,
The anchor is a little bit higher now but that pitch, aside from the very bottom, was never too difficult and simply made for placing truck stop nuts. I think for those reasons its very lightly scared.
BTW, aside from the roof, it's the most overhung pitch on the climb.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Surely DEW Line (11c) at Lake Louise has to make top 50.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mark,
You're talking about that steep A1? I was thinking about that too, but thought the Triple Cracks is more iconic and so mentioned that on my list. However, that's a great pitch. Piss easy but steep. I remember looking down between my legs and seeing my buddy belaying me from the portaledge and the huge sweep of El Cap beneath you. You climb it, just marveling at the position, the exposure but you're not freaked out of your mind because it's so mellow and, well, fun. Just Amazing.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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It was the positon, not the difficulty, that made that Shield pitch so dope. The crack swallowed nuts like crazy.
JL
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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+1 for Sinestra, IC
+1 for every part of Airy Interlude, Needles- especially linked in 2 pitches
Linking the last 200 Feet of Positive Vibrations, Hulk
Last Pitch of Vision Quest, IC
Stem Box Pitch of Rimshot, IC
Stem Corner on OZ, TM
The second pitch of The Crucifix, YV
The 2nd and 5th pitches of Western Front, Russell
If you can solo it- does it count as a single pitch? That would open up some options
Hate to talk smack- but Blue Sun???? You need to get out more
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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A list of outstanding pitches in the Tetons might include:
Open Book, Garnet Canyon, Pitch 3
Irene's Arete, Garnet Canyon, Hanging Tooth Pitch
Lower Exum Ridge, Black Face Pitch
The Snaz, Death Canyon, Pitch 6
The South Buttress routes on Mt. Moran have a multitude of great pitches...Pitch 3 and Great Traverse pitch of South Buttress Right are unforgettable ...
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Fishcake
Trad climber
SANTA ANA
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I will add more later but, so far, my favorite single pitch climb (and probably my favorite pitch ever) is:
Illusion Dweller 10b, Joshua Tree National Park
Other notables:
EVERY pitch (though the chimney pitch is especially memorable) on Whodunit 5.9, Tahquitz
P1 and P2 on Long Climb (with P1 Wong variation) 5.8, Tahquitz
Sail Away 5.7, Joshua Tree
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Random great pitches I've led and can remember that feeling of being totally in the moment....
Last pitch of Inferno, Whitehorse Ledge, New Hampshire
Arch pitch on Fruit Cup Wall, Cannon Mtn, New Hampshire
Pipe pitch (when it still had the pipe) on Whitney-Gilman Ridge, New Hampshire
Linking all of Disneyland into one pitch, Gunks
Linking all of Son of Easy O into one pitch, Gunks
Last pitch of Westward Ha, Gunks
Last pitch of Cruise Control, Gunks
Linking all of Slip of Fools into one pitch, Gunks
6th pitch of the Prow, Washington's Column Yosemite Valley
First Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Last Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Boot Flake pitch on the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley
Last pitch of the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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F*#kin A, no love for The Forks???
Pick one and add it to the list.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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i remember this being lots of fun, and with handcracks in the back on both sides, just seemed like a dream come true. cresent crack. direct route on half dome
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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For you jefe, Sail away, & Davidson dihedral ... And Paradise Lost... P-Forks
And, trying to stick to single pitch ;
Jump back jack crack. g mtn
Dominatrix w/0 mercy stronghold
Matricide, mt lemon
So many,Indian Creek?
siniestra for sure
Also,
9 lives
quarter of a man,
Stout
Black Corner
The Big Guy
Mega bucks,
Gurkha
T bones tonight
Spectreman Vedauwoo
Squat
Eds rack
Horns mother
Forever war (though incomplete, for me)
Jihad ". "
Fremont canyon
Of wine and roses
deto
Hollywood and vine
Walt Bailey
Tad
Danes Macabre
Mr clean,
El mat
The meadows
Blues riff
death crack
Black angel
Memo from Lloyd
The valley
Bad ass momma
Separate reality
Owl roof
Tales of power
Positively fourth street
Josh
Equinox
Morongo man
Castaways
Monkey roof
Wangerbanger
Spiderline
Throbbing gristle
Suicide
Paisano roof
Flower of a nigh rank
Insomnia
Mother superior
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The last pitch you did that made you smile, followed by......
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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A pitch that was special for me for a long time was a pendulum into the Grey Bands on the Triple Direct. At the end of the swing I on landed on what I remembered as a face of quartz crystals, like hand sized, that I climbed up.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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+1 Donini! I feel like I say "This is my new favorite pitch!" a few times each month!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Crimson Cringe Yos
Mentor VRG
Oracle Sonoma
Privelage du Serpant Ceuse
Strawberries Chateau Ver
Big Bobs Big Wedge Josh
Mad World pitch 7 Cal Dome
Stove Legs
Mr. Natural Yos
Enduro Corner A Man
Wall of the Worlds pith 1 Cal Domes
Salathe Headwall
Blind Faith pitch 1
Bad ass momma
Been on all, done most
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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How about the second and third pitches of Corrugation Corner at the Leap. The Step across on the Mace, or pitch 4 of the Snaz.
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