It's hot here!


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Social climber
Wanaka, Otago
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
Hi Folks!

I'm new on this site (and this country!)

My BF and I are here on a six month roadie - sport climbing mostly, but some alpine rock routes thrown in as well. Between now and December we're hoping to get to most of the following....Ten sleep, Devils tower, Red River Gorge, Red Rocks, Smith, Moab area, Mt Witney, Tuolumne, J tree and Yosemite (if the other half can convince me I'm up for it!)

We are currently at Wild Iris - and loving it - but thinking about where the next best stop would be. Obviously we have been eyeing up Ten Sleep for our next hit but we're wondering how hot it would be there just now. I'm typing this from Lander - and it's almost 100F in town today. We were ousted from Maple Canyon in Utah by the heat, so not keen to move to another oven.

As far as grades go - my BF climbs to around 13c on good days. Me, I'm a 5.10er at the moment, but looking to improve over the trip. I'm a happy belayer, but don't put me on the girlfriend routes at the tough crags! They're Cr#* the world over and it makes me wingey :-). I want quality routes at my level too.

We're thinking the Wind River Range in mid to late August, but that's really our only fixed date.

Be really grateful to hear what you suggest.

Many thanks


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 15, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
Have a beer. Relax.

(can't help ya with suggestions, but it's pretty mild here in Calif)

Ice climber
Jul 15, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
You could add city of rocks to the list. Hihger in elevation and pretty easyto follow the shade all day and you will find more quality routes in your grades than his...

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 15, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Try the Tetons.....lot's of routes you'll like and great scenery and wildlife. The Winds are awesome....go in latter Aug. and you'll miss the only negative.....mosquitos.
If you want awesome alpine rock routes, the Elephant's Perch is close by.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Jul 15, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
I'm headed to Four Stories in SE Wyoming on Sunday. There is absolutely nothing in your boyfriend's range, but plenty in yours. It is definitely not hot there. Bring your fluffy.

Ten Sleep is high and cool. Get up early, there's sun in the PM. Plenty of routes in all grades.

Disclaimer: I was belaying in a polarfleece jacket in the Box Canyon at Maple on Saturday so I'm not sure what your comfort range actually is.

Social climber
Wanaka, Otago
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Thanks donini - a friend from home also raves about Elephant's Perch as well - will do some more research.

Mike and Bsmitz - Sounds like City of Rocks and Maple are a bit better now. It was OK in Box in early July - just the camping was super hot - and there's not much for me in there. Great place though, we both want to return if we can make the travel plans work that way.

Mike - Four stories looks really cool (and cool!). What's the road like leading into it - we have an old Dodge Ram sportsmobile van (called Big Bertha - to give you an idea about her) - she's not that agile :-).

Sending topos to the other half as I type this!


Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Jul 15, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
You can drive to within a 4 minute approach to the routes at Four Stories in any car. I've taken my Prius there.
gonzo chemist

Fort Collins, CO
Jul 16, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
If you're going to be on the Sierra Eastside, I'd recommend Pine Creek Canyon (near Bishop). Shady all afternoon. Usually pleasant. Although I've mostly only climbed the trad routes, there are supposed to be lots of great sport routes as well...5.9-5.13a. Apparently with some ultra classics in the 5.12-5.13a realm.

Also, if that's too hot, then I HIGHLY recommend Patricia Bowl (in the Rock Creek area). Situated at almost 3500 meters, and north facing, this place NEVER gets hot; the only time to climb there is when its just blistering in the Owens River Valley. Awesome crack climbing on amazing quality granite.

Betty Uno

Mountain climber
Jul 16, 2013 - 12:40pm PT

Welcome Kiwi, How about the Virgin River Gorge as long as you're out that way?

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 16, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Welcome Kiwi, How about the Virgin River Gorge as long as you're out that way?

Oh, yeah, that'll be nice and cool now. ;-)

Trad climber
Jul 16, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
I'll second what J. Donini said.

My daughter is in the Tetons- she arrived yesterday.

I heard the Wind Rivers are already free of snow, so the mosquito's will be gone soon as well.

I'll be there in 3-4 weeks.

Gym climber
the big bang
Jul 16, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
yeah its kind of like july and august is to come... expect it to get worse before it gets better. best bet instead of chasing weather patterns is to go up in elevation... winds are an excellent option but if you want to tell your kiwi friends about some true 'merika climbing get out of lander and head down to the Voo (Vedauwoo - just east of laramie) and climb some good old massive feldspar granite offwidth... the temps there are generally not too warm this time of year - I have even seen it snow in July! The Jackson / teton area aka "the other Wyoming or is it an enclave of California i forget..." will be ripe with tourists right now. That said it may be worth spending a few days to blast up the grand but don't expect to have it to yourself...

Either that or as someone else stated have a beer and relax and enjoy the sunsets


Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 16, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
No one has said it yet???


Social climber
Wanaka, Otago
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Ooooh off widths.....I admit I'm being fussy but, no thanks :-)

We will go to Jackson for a few days soon, and we've been fully informed about the potential for crowds.

Thanks very much for the replies - for today - Given it's a rest day I'm going with the beer suggestion at the Lander Bar!



Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 16, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
i don't where the hell you are
but if you find your way to lake tahoe,
you won't regret your vector.

pie shop. bliss state park. lover's leap.

there is so much high-star cragging here that
you could squat until yosemite is back in season.

a mere 3 hours from high sierra mountaineering
and tuolumne.

visit san francisco and drag your toes thrue
pacific sand. see some live music. eat world class cuisine.
also 4 hours.

if you land at our airport,
send me a message and i will advise you
upon free and easy camping,
as well as good and proper, though
culturally crooked brain pursuits.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jul 16, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
You won't find a pint of Speight's in a bar in Lander.

I'd recommend City of Rocks.

PS: I'm originally from Twizel.

New Zealand
Jul 16, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
Twizvegas represents!

Nice and cool at castle hill at the moment.

Jim Henson's Basement
Jul 16, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
+2 for Bishop/Pine Creek/Patricia Bowl

&+2 for Lover's Leap/Tahoe Area

Something for everyone in those places and you can dodge the summer heat.

There's stuff you can do in Yosemite.. its just hot and crowded as hell in the summer. Tuolumne is cooler with less mobs to navigate. J-Tree is pretty much out of the question for a few months.. unless you really like it hot.
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